+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 30 of 30

Thread: strongest cvds?

  1. #1
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    13

    strongest cvds?

    What is the strongest cvds available?I know UE titanium 8mm cvds are,but they aren't made anymore.
    Here is a list I made of some.I left MIP out cause they really don't seem that strong based on what I read & watching a few vids.
    Traxxas Fr/Rr cvds

    Integy steel cvds

    Ebay seller rc best cvds,HardenedNickelChromiumMolybdenumSteel.they make 3.3 sizes also.I use this set on a old e-maxx awhile back & had no problems.

    Idk who makes these,but they are on ebay.Steel sliders.It shows in detail a comparison to how other cvds are made & their weak points.

    I heard you can do a LST cvd mod,but when I try to go the thread it never loads.
    hot racing titanium cvds.


    To bad FLM don't make their baja super duty cvds for maxx/revo trucks.

    For the centers:UE titanium or Integy heavy duty

    Last edited by mudshredder; 12-10-2011 at 09:16 PM.

  2. #2
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Denmark
    Posts
    230
    If you can't get hold of the UE 8mm's you might as well go with the Traxxas ones. I have used the Traxxas CVD's on my previous E-maxx, and still have Traxxas center cvd, and they have worked very well.

    On my first E-maxx I had MIP's and they were also very good.

    On my current E-maxx I have Ofna X2 crt cvd's, but they are paired with UE extended arms, so not quite sure if they will work on a stock E-maxx.

    I would definately stay away from Integy.
    www.rcgalleri.dk/html/gal_visbil.asp?ID=2166

  3. #3
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Nova Scotia ,Canada
    Posts
    1,246
    Do you have any pics of the ofna cvds instaled. Sounds interesting. I using the losi cvds and they are great so far.

  4. #4
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    u.k.
    Posts
    1,429
    i have the rc best ones.
    The only thing that i have snapped on it is the pin that holds the axle hub onto the shaft, But i did have the diff spools installed when that happened.
    Fixed it by replacing it with a cheap roll pin pushed in never had another problem. But i don't have the spool installed either.
    Motorcycle/Quad,Think sand vehicle, piggy backs

  5. #5
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Denmark
    Posts
    230
    www.rcgalleri.dk/html/gal_visbil.asp?ID=2166

  6. #6
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    5

    No to slider CVDs

    I would not recommend the cvds that you show from ebay. The ones with sliders. I bought a set for my mamba emax. They aren't welded well enough and I had a couple break or slip on the shaft/spline area. The company was good and replaced them free of charge. I found that after 5 to 10 hours they started get sloppy on the around the universal pins and I removed them. They are a good idea but are not made strong enough steel. They looked good though! I am using the Traxxas performance CVDs which are much stronger steel and seem to be holding up well.

  7. #7
    Marshal carraig042's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    East Tennessee
    Posts
    6,634
    I have had good luck with the Traxxas CVD's. I would recommend the extended drive cups especially if you are using RPM a-arms.

    -Brett
    4wd Sportmaxx 3.3
    E-Revo - Mamba Monster - Neu 4s

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    461
    I have the traxxas ones but they havent been on long enough to make a decision. I did run them once or twice on 6s and no problems!
    I BLAME ALL THIS ON POPOXX!

  9. #9
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    27
    are there any other cvd to mention?

    i heard the trx ones can pop out, bend and wear out bearings

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Newport Or. Over looking the beautiful bay
    Posts
    316
    I also have had good luck with Traxxas CVD's. They can and will pop out if you are using RPM arms, using the extended drive cups fix that problem. I have bent two so far on 6s but I just bent them back and they are still going strong.
    FLM E-MAXX 3908 6s
    Rustler VXL x 2 MMP SCT 3800

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    461
    Ok part number for extended cups please!
    I BLAME ALL THIS ON POPOXX!

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cocoa Florida
    Posts
    3,456
    Traxxas #5153R
    http://buy.traxxas.com/product_info....oducts_id=7441

    Get the Traxxas CVDs, they work well and parts are easily had almost everywhere.

    Integy, only for springs & Ti tools~nothing else!
    Last edited by Wildman4910; 01-15-2012 at 08:11 PM.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    530
    Thanks for the info. I'm slowly working my way to CVDs. New Prolines are ready to go; 6S LIPOs inbound & the next step are CVDs. Would you recommend extended cups for the center or just on the RPM Arms?

  14. #14
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    9
    you can also run losi lst xxl cvd's with tekno axle carriers/8mm stub axle conversion. I just did this mod when i rebuilt my maxx and have not had a lot of testing but many others have done it as well

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cocoa Florida
    Posts
    3,456
    Quote Originally Posted by GaiginRC View Post
    Thanks for the info. I'm slowly working my way to CVDs. New Prolines are ready to go; 6S LIPOs inbound & the next step are CVDs. Would you recommend extended cups for the center or just on the RPM Arms?
    Just for the Outer CVD's, the centers should be fine.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  16. #16
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    35
    Quote Originally Posted by Moondoggie View Post
    you can also run losi lst xxl cvd's with tekno axle carriers/8mm stub axle conversion. I just did this mod when i rebuilt my maxx and have not had a lot of testing but many others have done it as well
    more pics of that please

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Fraser Valley, BC Canada
    Posts
    3,138
    How necessary are the cvd's to run?
    I don't have shelf queens, I have bash kings!

  18. #18
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Peekskill NY
    Posts
    232
    Quote Originally Posted by aijames View Post
    more pics of that please
    You need special bearings with that setup... Just a side note
    EMBE BANDIT VXL SASSY CLOD RC10L RC18MT

  19. #19
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    198
    Can someone explain to me the need for steel CVD's? I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, but I've yet to snap anything on 6s 28/62? Or is it more a cosmetic thing? what am i missing?

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cocoa Florida
    Posts
    3,456
    Largely it depends on your truck setup and how hard on the throttle you are as to weather or not you snap the plastic sliders.

    My truck needed upgraded to the newer style drive train so I bought the CVD's instead of the plastic's as I was twisting the older style stock plastic sliders badly.

    If you are not have an issue with the stock slider then it's just cosmetic, if your snapping or twisting the sliders easily then you may want to get a stronger CVD set.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  21. #21
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Quebec,Alma,Lac-St-Jean
    Posts
    252
    Why the rpm arm need extended cup??The rpm arm doesn't have the same lenght than the stock part???

    (i have bought traxxas CVD and i will receive it soon,all rpm arm on my e-maxx)

  22. #22
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    9
    Quote Originally Posted by aijames View Post
    more pics of that please
    yes as usarush said you will need some team associated bearings 15x21x4 , two packs of them. Also when you instal those bearings you will probably have to tap them in with a socket. I didnt realize how far they could go in until after running the truck for a day so i had to take it apart and press them all in further. One other thing you will have to do is either run a spacer behind your 17mm adapters or drill a new hole which i am doing now. Here a re some pics

    this is how far it was pressed in to begin with

    now fully pressed in

    in the truck

    and this is why i say drill a new hole or run a spacer but if you decide to run a spacer the truck will be wider

    and one of the cvd in the bearing

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cocoa Florida
    Posts
    3,456
    Quote Originally Posted by SkidMan View Post
    Why the rpm arm need extended cup??The rpm arm doesn't have the same lenght than the stock part???

    (i have bought traxxas CVD and i will receive it soon,all rpm arm on my e-maxx)
    Because the RPM arms flex more, the extended cup is just a little longer and keeps the axe from popping out of the cup at full suspension extension.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  24. #24
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    119
    Guys,

    Does anyone know the website for UE products?

    Thanks,
    Raz

  25. #25
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Quebec,Alma,Lac-St-Jean
    Posts
    252
    Quote Originally Posted by Wildman4910 View Post
    Because the RPM arms flex more
    Sound good.....i need 4 extended cup?

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cocoa Florida
    Posts
    3,456
    Quote Originally Posted by SkidMan View Post
    Sound good.....i need 4 extended cup?
    Yup 4, they come 2 to a bag so you need 2 bags of them.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  27. #27
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Quebec,Alma,Lac-St-Jean
    Posts
    252
    Thanks!!!

  28. #28
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    W Monroe, Louisiana
    Posts
    1,968
    And if the cups ever wear... Go for RC Monster drive cups. Theyre long like the extended traxxas cups and harder than all other cups.

    IIRC i used a 15mm socket to press the 15x21 bearing into the carrier.
    Last edited by anr2442; 01-18-2012 at 09:11 PM.

  29. #29
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    461
    Update since then ive busted 2 traxxas cvd"s in the front the little pin that rides the cup sheared off ! I might try mip ive had some of there products on an old rustler
    I BLAME ALL THIS ON POPOXX!

  30. #30
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    114
    Quote Originally Posted by Moondoggie View Post
    yes as usarush said you will need some team associated bearings 15x21x4 , two packs of them. Also when you instal those bearings you will probably have to tap them in with a socket. I didnt realize how far they could go in until after running the truck for a day so i had to take it apart and press them all in further. One other thing you will have to do is either run a spacer behind your 17mm adapters or drill a new hole which i am doing now. Here a re some pics

    this is how far it was pressed in to begin with

    now fully pressed in

    in the truck

    and this is why i say drill a new hole or run a spacer but if you decide to run a spacer the truck will be wider

    and one of the cvd in the bearing
    If you had to push the bearings in further would a 5mm wide bearing of been better? Or, are they not available?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts