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  1. #1
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    1/16 BATTERIES Revo Help? + upgrades for noob

    I'm about to get A new Mini Revo BL(for Christmas) but need help picking batteries. Should I get another stock battery and run in series or use Lipos. I already have a s3 2200mAh 25C battery for my heli but not sure if it will fit? I'll just be bashing around and don't want to set any speed records.
    Also i'm planning on keeping it pretty stock, upgrading parts as a break them but is there any parts which a should upgrade or prepare for strait away?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    There are not a lot of 3S lipos with that capacity that will fit, maybe even zero. The Merv is pretty fast on 2S, so I would start with that (dont forget to replace the stock 28T with the 23T pinion that comes with it). If it aint broke, dont fix it. Upgrades cost money. First drive it! Oh wait... First wait till Xmas
    Nobody is born with experience

  3. #3
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    Thanks, didn't thing my battery would fit anyway, have you got any preference in battery's? traxxas, ***** ect

  4. #4
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    no 2200 mah 3s lipo will fit. I tried. 2200 2s and you're in business, or 1800 3s is the max size 3s. *****s are good just make sure they will fit (read reviews and research). You should buy RPM suspension arms before you open the mini revo, steering knuckles are recommended but you don't need them right away. I'd start with a pair of 2200 2s lips or 2250 ********** (see that other thread floating around) and enjoy it. I don't want to bash traxxas but the stock batteries don't last long.
    I like turtles.

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    For a choice of lipos in the 1/16, look at this thread
    Nobody is born with experience

  6. #6
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    OK thanks for all your help so far guys
    Whats the biggest battery the merv will fit?
    and is it safe to run 2 x 2s battery's in series?(******* 2200mAh 2S 20C Lipo Pack and will it fit(its 105x34x17mm)

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Do a thread search in the topic I linked to in my previous post to see which 2200mAh batteries fit.
    Running your stock system on 4S is not safe. It can be done, but it is not designed to do so.

    I have 2 sets of 2 1500mAh 3S batteries and I can run about the same time as I need to charge them. The thing is still crazy fast on 3S. My reason for running 3S is that I like to have something extra. I rarely pull the trigger all the way.
    If you compare the capacity of 2S and 3S, dont forget that a 1500mAh 3S has the same amount of energy on board as a 2250mAh 2S.
    Nobody is born with experience

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    SPC, *****, *******
    Those are the forum favorites.... all 2S... all in PARALLEL
    A few that run 3S consistently, but they usually have a TON of upgrades to handle the power.
    2S is fun... no real worries; heat or breakage.
    3S is wicked... for a few minutes. Then you have to wait for the next shipment of parts.

    ******* ********** 2250mah 2S 65/130C; ~$20 shipped
    ***** ********* 2200mah 2S 20C; ~$10 shipped
    SPC 2225mah 2S 25C; ~$19 plus shipping

    I just wanted to add that I have the $10 batteries for my two 1/16ths and get roughly 1 hour run times in parallel. Plus, with the proper set up you can charge up to 6 batteries in about an hour.
    Last edited by Jimmie Neutron; 12-05-2011 at 11:38 AM.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jimbo74's Avatar
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    As mentioned by others, running 4s on the stock esc isn't a good idea..... It wont do it in lipo mode, so you will have to run in nimh mode. And in nimh mode, you don't have lipo cutoff protection

    that and 4s is a lot of power going through it. It most likely will not support it for very long, as it is spec'd for 3s max

  10. #10
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    +1, do not run 2s in series, I burned my ESC and motor on 4s lipo
    I like turtles.

  11. #11
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    OK so dont run 4s but what about 3s? I know it can but will this shorten its life and how much extra power will a get?
    I know its a bit of a dumb question I just want to play it safe

  12. #12
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    I run 3S pretty much every run. I rarely break anything, so far. I think what I have broken would have happened on 2S and probably nimh, just stupid stuff. I dont bash to awful much though.


    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    I just wanted to add that I have the $10 batteries for my two 1/16ths and get roughly 1 hour run times in parallel. Plus, with the proper set up you can charge up to 6 batteries in about an hour.
    Do you have a linky to the thread on this?

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firemandan View Post
    Do you have a linky to the thread on this?
    I dont have a link, but that must be charging 2 batteries in series (or parallel) everytime at a 3C charge rate.
    Nobody is born with experience

  14. #14
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    OK im about to buy some 3s battery's between 1800 and 2200mAh, I know the higher the C rating the better but is there a point where its just pointless(like 40+) or may start damaging my ESC and Motor? im looking at around 20 to 30 C

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Actually, I do not charge above 1.5C to obtain this charge time.
    Charge times are rarely, if ever, above an hour... as long as the balance state of the cells are decent.
    But if I state my actual charge times; I usually have to defend my statement.
    (and that just gets tiring)

    No thread to link you to, so I will just inform you all of my charging system:

    iCharger 206B: 20amps of charging POWER!!
    Homemade 24v 75a power supply: retired server power supplies wired in series. EXTREMELY safe!!
    30a XT60 ParaBoard... that is where the magic happens... lol

    I have $175 wrapped up in everything listed above... minus batteries, of course.
    If you have any questions, please PM me so we don't hijack this thread any further....


    BACK ON TOPIC:
    You could have a battery with 1,000C and it would not hurt anything.
    I think I have read that anything above 20C is not used with a stock system.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  16. #16
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    OK my list of stuff to do/buy
    -change pinion to 23T
    -RPM suspension arms
    -3s 1800mAh 20c batterys
    -and a heat sync for motor just to be safe(BTW any good brands?)

    Please I'd love to hear more of your suggestions on parts + batteries

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    May want to grab a lower pinion or two to help with temps.
    Heat sync's are hard to mess up... so I imagine any brand will work. Just use some heat transfer paste to get full use of it.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  18. #18
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    how lower should i go? LOL! and wouldn't it just go slower making me using more power?

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    I'm not sure how much lower... I don't run 3S.

    I do know that I run 23/50 with 2S with no heat issues.... about 160-170
    This tells me that this same gearing with 3S is probably going to cause heat issues.

    3S = More power = more heat
    Going with a lower pinion will not make you go slower because you have more voltage.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  20. #20
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    about how fast do you thing you can go on a 2s? can you do backflips on the spot?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by LOL ZILLA View Post
    OK my list of stuff to do/buy
    -change pinion to 23T
    -RPM suspension arms
    -3s 1800mAh 20c batterys
    -and a heat sync for motor just to be safe(BTW any good brands?)

    Please I'd love to hear more of your suggestions on parts + batteries
    I use the traxxas heat sync. It works great! No heat issues at all. When I purchased it from my LHS, all they had was some eflite heat syncs, put three of them on had some high temps but did not have the ESC shutdown.

    I run the stock gear setup with the extra gear that comes in the box, not sure what they are though. Ill look next time Im in there.

    Didnt mean to hijack, thought it might help with his setup as well as help me!

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    No harm intended, no harm done.
    We around here tend to chase rabbits... but that term might only make sense where I am from. lol

    When I ran 2S without the center diff I could pull rolling wheelies at 20+ mph.
    I could back flip off any vertical object... I imagine stand alone back flips were a traction issue.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  23. #23
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    OK so i think all go with two 2s and one 3s battery just to start out with, BTW how do you just test your temps? just feel or proper temperature tester? a heat sink and then ill just fix parts as i break them
    wheres a good place to buy parts from? local hobby shop, ebay, etc, also i do live in Australia so shipping might be an problem

  24. #24
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    Also how should i stiffen up the suspension? new springs, shocks or both? also with springs is the higher the number the stiffer?
    like 2.22 to stiffer?
    1.76 is softer?
    Whats a good setting for bashing on stones and dirt?

    cheers guys
    Last edited by LOL ZILLA; 12-06-2011 at 10:51 PM.

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Higher the number the stiffer they are.
    To stiffen up the suspension, get heavier oil along with stiffer springs.

    I measure my temperatures with a non-contact thermometer.
    This one to be exact:
    Last edited by Jimmie Neutron; 12-06-2011 at 10:50 PM.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  26. #26
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    do you thinks its a necessary tool or can you just tell by hand because i'm really trying to keep it at cheap as possible

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    You cannot tell by hand.
    Anything above 140 will feel hot.
    The sweet spot for a motor is 160.

    I am sure you can find something locally for a reasonable price.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  28. #28
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    Today I got my batteries in the mail. 2 ******* 2s 2200mAh 30-40C and 1 3s 2200Ah 25-35C. Also my other battery that we thought probs wouldn't fit look like it will next to the 3s. The car and deans connectors are due in the mail over the next couple of days, charger in about a week

  29. #29
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    I use an Extech IR thermometer, just what I had around the house, works though. Any IR thermometer will work. Whatever you can find at the local hardware store.

    I have Exotek Big Bore shocks, these come with the springs, oil, aluminum mounts and also come with adjustable tie rods. I havent run them very much, but I like them so far. A lot of people use the Traxxas GTR shocks and like them.

    I hope that 3S battery works for you, my blue lipo 2200 3S will not fit in the battery compartment.

  30. #30
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Most any 3S with 2200mah will not fit...
    Guess we will find out soon enough!
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  31. #31
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    I was thinking the same thing, somewhere around 1800 is about the largest from what I remember.

  32. #32
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    I am running a 3s 1300 20c and using a gear setup of 18/50. Front Springs are white rally greenspot with 50wt. The rear I am running revo red blackspot springs with 80wt. With this setup I can hang with a stock 1/10 rustler no problem. I just have alot of self control (lack of funds,ha ha) to contain the full throttle bashing. Which on 3s this thing is a monster!!!.

  33. #33
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    WOOTWOOT GOT THE CAR TODAY. unforchantly the 3s batteries are about 2mm to high but o'well it was only $12.
    OK time to do some more shopping:
    -******* 390 servo
    -front RPM A arms
    -and should I go with the traxxas push rods (7118x) and toe links (7138x) or the Titanium Turnbuckle Tie Rod Set by GPM TERV160? are they even the same thing?
    -heat sink, should I get one with a fan?
    -heaver weight oil for shocks, any suggestions?

    thanks
    Last edited by LOL ZILLA; 12-12-2011 at 10:21 PM.

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    -******* 390 servo
    ---Great choice
    -front RPM A arms
    ---Great choice
    -and should I go with the traxxas push rods (7118x) and toe links (7138x) or the Titanium Turnbuckle Tie Rod Set by GPM TERV160? are they even the same thing?
    ---I say stick with stock... I have only replaced the plastic balls with steel.
    ---Stock rods flex and don't break.
    ---If you do upgrade, the best bang for buck is GPM Stainless with a pack of extra rod ends.
    -heat sink, should I get one with a fan?
    ---Heat sinks are ok, fans are pointless as long as you cut the windshield out!
    -heaver weight oil for shocks, any suggestions?
    ---60-80wt
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  35. #35
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    I have the Ti turnbuckles by GPM. As soon as I get some shims in, Ill get back running and let you know how they are. They have been out of the SS version for a while and the Ti were $10 more or so is why I went with them, plus I like Ti

    I have the A-Arms, Traxxas heat sync, 390 servo adn heavier oil, all are great!
    Last edited by Firemandan; 12-13-2011 at 12:10 AM.

  36. #36
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    Is it just me or have traxxasses forums not being working for the last week?
    I've gotten everything I order in the mail, IMAX b6 charger, 2 2200mAh 2s batteries, a heap of deans connectors and of corse the car but can't use it till 25th

    I can't buy anything else until after Xmas because the post takes to long to get to australia because everything's from the USA or china but when I can:
    -new servo (390)
    -RPM front A arms
    -RPM front bumper
    -traxxass heat sink

    Shim the bulkhead, change pinion, change suspension oil to somthing heavier and cut a couple of holes in body to keep it cool.

    Anything else to add to that?
    Cheers

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    I've got the same one, works fine, just like any other lol. Also like to add yes its a needed tool for this hobby, your on a budget, that just makes it a much needed tool. You want to go fast, and your trying to pack big batteries and 2s-3s in it, ya you need a temp gun. I didn't see a pinion on your list of things that have arrived, get a temp gun. This one above was around $9, had it for 2 years and spent $2 on batteries for it
    I'm not a hatchet man! I'm a maggot!

  38. #38
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    WOOT! got my merv to day! So much fun on 2s batt, so far havnt broken anything but the balls in the knuckle Hubs are a bit loose, id this normal? and when I get 3s batteries will I need to strengthen any parts(drive train)?

  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    The stock knuckles are not the most durable part of the Merv. To reduce slop, upgrading to alu helps a lot.
    When you use 3S, the thing will be crazy fast and give you a bigger risk to bump into something and break parts. The drive train can handle it.

    Have fun with your new car!
    Nobody is born with experience

  40. #40
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    The stock drive train cannot even handle 2S consistently without some improvements.

    At a minimum:
    I would suggest a center differential to lessen the shock load on the axles.
    You definitely need to shim your bulkheads.
    It is a MUST to gear it properly to avoid frying your ESC/motor.
    Expect the need to upgrade to Traxxas CVD's if you want to run 3S more than once in a while.
    (only suggesting the CVD's because they are proven, but GPM just came out with an alternative that looks good on paper)

    All the above is assuming that you don't crash because of the crazy fast speeds!!
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

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