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Thread: MPH Challenge

  1. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by jekyll818 View Post
    Got a picture/example of the cutting table? I'm better with pictures than words . Also what specific blade are you using? I'm considering making some braces for my baja 5t.
    +1 for that. I usually drill 1/8" holes close to each other and then file/sand/grind back to where i want it to be, but if i can learn a better/new method i am all for it.

    My mrs hates it when i do alloy work to as my workshop is just between our rumpus room and kitchen and the kids have to pass through it...usually in socks, so it gets dragged everywhere and having a 5mth old bub i get told off constantly.

  2. #362
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    A piece of hard foam works good whenn needing to cut with a jig saw. It supports the material and allows the blade to penetrate.
    Supermaxx, rusty 3.3, savage xl

  3. #363
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    Snook,
    All this time I thought you were using side cutters, a chisel and hammer... lolll

    honestly, I thought you had some form of lathe or router....

    I should have known better, pure talent from the inventor of the Leaf Blower Wind Tunnel!!!!!!!!

    And I do mean that 100% respectfully. Doing that kind of work in a home garage takes more than time and patience, there's a talent factor, and you've got it...

    I could only imagine what you could do if you had a water jet table....

    Founder of H.U.A.
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  4. #364
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    My side cutters are dull and my hammer is rusty
    If I had a water jet I would be dangerous!

    Quote Originally Posted by jekyll818 View Post
    Got a picture/example of the cutting table? I'm better with pictures than words . Also what specific blade are you using?
    I have tried a bunch of different ways to cut aluminum plate with a jig saw and a simple wood framed box made from 2x4 with a Ĺ inch piece of sacrificial plywood as the cutting deck works best for me.
    The trick is to securely attach the piece you are cutting to the plywood with countersunk screws if at all possible so the saw deck plate (I use a piece of ABS plastic attached to the saw deck to keep from scratching the aluminum) can pass over them without interference. If the piece is not secure and is bouncing up and down you will not get good results and wear out/bend saw blades quickly.

    The frame/box just needs to have a little bigger inside dimensions than the piece you are working with, the depth of the 2x4 and plywood allows the blade no interference when cutting.
    This is the box I used to cut the inside design of the side plates, it just has new pieces of scrap plywood attached to it.


    When cutting designs on the inside of the piece, once secured to the plywood and the holes are drilled for the saw blade to enter its just simple cuts with a few relief cuts when necessary to make tighter curves with the blade.
    When cutting the outside design once you get to a certain point the plywood will start to sag and I then add a supporting piece of 2x4 in the area that has already been cut.

    I use Bosh T118A Metal blades to cut the T6 7075 up to ľ inch thick without difficulties.
    Cut at a slow to medium blade speed and let the saw do the work, forcing the blade into the material will just result in worn out blades and crooked cuts.

    T6 aluminum both 6061 and 7075 actually cuts better/cleaner than the softer cheaper aluminum does, the soft stuff tends to gum up the saw blades rather quickly and the edges will have more burrs.

    With a little practice and a solid working platform you can cut some pretty intricate designs with a jig saw, you are just limited to the width/depth of the blade.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  5. #365
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snook Man
    I have tried a bunch of different ways to cut aluminum plate with a jig saw and a simple wood framed box made from 2x4 with a Ĺ inch piece of sacrificial plywood as the cutting deck works best for me.
    And you still have all 10 fingers!!!

    Founder of H.U.A.
    Hop Ups Anonymous

  6. #366
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    8 fingers and 2 thumbs lol
    Joshua 24:15 Choose this day who ye will serve

  7. #367
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    this build is insane. i want to see the engines hes going to use and the body!
    Im young. And im Learning.

  8. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by GBGenocide View Post
    i want to see the engines hes going to use and the body!
    You and me both...
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  9. #369
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    Q: Did the release of the funny car and it's tires throw anything off with the build? Are you looking at getting those tires too? Maybe the body?
    The Super Derecho

  10. #370
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    double g, i had the exact same question i was going to ask! haha

  11. #371
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    IMO snook would be better off sticking to the XO-1 tyres, especially on the rear. Sure the dragster can hit 70+mph BUT it has "super sticky" drag style tyres, which to me means a softer compound as well as the ability to balloon more due to the softer sidewalls to keep with the drag look. Also what kind of distance are you going to cover with the dragster compared to snooks beast? A softer compound from a 70mph car, or a harder compound from a 100mph car, with the speeds snook will be looking at i know which would be my choice.

  12. #372
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    One of the 1st things I did was to check out the tires and body specs of the Funny Car.
    The rear tires are the same part # as the XO-1 rear tires, the funny car just uses a different offset wheel and an insert/extension that’s part of the wheel to make the tire look like it is a high profile tire (wheels are also only 14mm hex). They would look cool for pics though to give it a more realistic look.
    The body is too small by a quite a bit. The wheelbase is 15.31 inches compared to mine which is 22, and the rear width is 9.17 compared to mine at 11.75.
    I guess my build is closer to a 7th scale than 8th.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  13. #373
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    I just read this whole thread and it took me like 1 1/2 hours! I love it! I think you will easily get three digits out of that car! I love nitro!

  14. #374
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    Snook... Just get the funny car body and cut it and extend it lol

  15. #375
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    A thing of beauty Snook!
    With a purposeful grimace and a terrible sound...

  16. #376
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    any updates snook?

  17. #377
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    Most amazing thing i have ever seen. Been reading this off and on all day. I wish i could make something like this but i can't my stock t maxx to run like i want it to lol. Great work snook keep it up and trip digits are deff in your future.

  18. #378
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    Iíve been busy with work for the past few weeks but have managed to replicate most of the important parts just in case I need them. I also have been reducing some more weight by adding more cutouts to the rear and front top braces and polishing a few parts.
    Iíve narrowed my engine choices down to two. Iím leaning toward 2 of these

    Coupled to two of these

    Almost ready to pull the trigger.
    Once I make the decision and get the engines and pipes it should only be a few weeks afterwards that I can do some break-in and test runs. Stay tuned...
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  19. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snook Man View Post
    Stay tuned...
    Don't know why but I started to crack up at this comment. Kind of a play on words to us nitro guys.





    Wish I had the money and more importantly an understanding wife.
    The Super Derecho

  20. #380
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    That exhaust pipe looks great, have to say I don't care for the pink anodizing on the cooling heads though
    But hey, if that mill will deliver than that's all that matters,
    Looking good.
    Matthew 7:7

  21. #381
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    well the color on the head will more and likely be scraped off after one crash. my nice blue os head is now silver from the tumbles

  22. #382
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    Quote Originally Posted by holeyguy66 View Post
    well the color on the head will more and likely be scraped off after one crash. my nice blue os head is now silver from the tumbles
    True, but nah Snook well install a generous amount of zip-ties I'm sure
    Matthew 7:7

  23. #383
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    i forgot to do that when i got my engine in and during break in it took one tumble and that was all she wrote

  24. #384
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    The wife is very understanding when it comes to my RC purchases, as I am with her shoes
    Glad you liked the play on words G, it was intended

    Chevy, thatís not pink, thatís Nova purple!... honestly I am not thrilled with the color either but when it comes to Novarossi, it is what it is.
    I donít think zip ties will help too much if the rubber side doesnít stay down
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  25. #385
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    yea at 100 alot isnt gonna help in a crash

  26. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snook Man View Post
    Chevy, that’s not pink, that’s Nova purple!... honestly I am not thrilled with the color either but when it comes to Novarossi, it is what it is.
    I don’t think zip ties will help too much if the rubber side doesn’t stay down
    Oh I stand corrected lol, ok, I do like purple haha.
    Matthew 7:7

  27. #387
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    Quote Originally Posted by holeyguy66 View Post
    yea at 100 alot isnt gonna help in a crash
    True, didn't think about that, you might not even have a cooling head left, or if that a very short one
    Matthew 7:7

  28. #388
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    Yea at 100 miles per hour I think the head is the least of his worries lol. Heads are cheap compared to all new servos chassie and w/e else breaks lol

  29. #389
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    What's the max RPM for that beast?

    Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk
    TRXnot so Newbie21

  30. #390
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    Out of the box it turns 33,500 at max power with a practical rpm range of 6k to 38,200, not too shabby for a roto start BB engine.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  31. #391
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    your gonna wanna put some weight on the front end i think or you will just be doing backflips when the wind catches the front of the car. some of those sticky wheel weight would work well i do believe. way cool project....wish you all the luck

  32. #392
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    can you put a link up for the thread of you maxx build?

  33. #393
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    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  34. #394
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    Snook you need to work for traxxas or something. These are amazing, and i bowdown before you.
    I have no stress because I am the best!

  35. #395
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    ^^^They would fire me in less than a week. I would be in their parts room assembling mutant rigs with all the different parts, and dremeling a few to make them fit!


    I finally had some free time to work on this build instead of just thinking about it.

    While making some duplicate replacement parts with cutouts to reduce the total weight I made a new front shock tower and repositioned the shock mounts to a more outboard and slightly lower position to set the front ride height exactly where I wanted it.
    I then swapped the aluminum front arms and axle carriers I was using for mock-up and installed the stock 4tec arms and carriers.
    With the shocks and heavier than normal spring rate that I think I need, the stock arms showed substantial flex when the front suspension was compressed.
    I found the aluminum arms I had been using were made by Proline and quite rare, these were well worn in the area of the hinge pin holes and at the lower ball joints.
    I made all new bushings for the a-arms and the upper a-arm mount and lined the lower ball joint cup with Teflon and made new stainless steel ball joint caps.
    The play is totally gone and everything operates nice and smoothly.
    The difference in weight between the stock arms and the aluminum was only 17grams and I would rather sacrifice a few grams than have the flex.

    I’ve managed to reduce the weight while still using the aluminum arms/carriers and suspension mounts with the new parts by almost 3 oz. After cutting away some of the center chassis I hope to loose about a 1 lb total.

    Front clip with lighter splitter support, shock tower and front 1 piece top brace.




    New rear bulkhead to chassis brace plate and shock tower.



    Bling bling...It can still look good and go fast at the same time
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  36. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snook Man View Post
    ^^^They would fire me in less than a week. I would be in their parts room assembling mutant rigs with all the different parts, and dremeling a few to make them fit!
    \
    Lol yea maybe but then again they might like all your designs and keep you and just limit you to how many parts you can take
    I have no stress because I am the best!

  37. #397
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    Oh also that looks amazing wish i was that skilled
    I have no stress because I am the best!

  38. #398
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    Looks good so far snook. I can't want to see the finished product

  39. #399
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    Hey snook how is the rig coming along? You get your engines yet? I am so eager to see this thing fully built and running!
    I have no stress because I am the best!

  40. #400
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    WHAT THE HECK, YOURE NOT DONE YET!!! This should have been done in one weekend, two tops. Hehe
    Supermaxx, rusty 3.3, savage xl

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