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  1. #1
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    Shock oil weight???

    Any suggestions on oil weight for the North East? The last time I used her was about two months ago and the shocks worked great. Now that the temps are in the 60's, the shocks are very soft. I am also thinking the springs will need an adjustment. The truck will squat down but will not return to its original height.

    Any suggestions? This is my first winter with the Slayer.

  2. #2
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    Some squat is absolutely normal. If you setup your suspension in an effort to make it return to full extension or highest ride height, you'll find yhat is way to stiff. As far as oil I would recommend 40wt

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. CarGuy7a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98NYFinestVette View Post
    Any suggestions on oil weight for the North East? The last time I used her was about two months ago and the shocks worked great. Now that the temps are in the 60's, the shocks are very soft. I am also thinking the springs will need an adjustment. The truck will squat down but will not return to its original height.

    Any suggestions? This is my first winter with the Slayer.
    Actually it should be the opposite in what you are saying with the temps. Colder weather the damping should feel a little slower. It will be a minimal amount if you could even tell a difference at all. Silicon based fluid seem to be a little more consistent with temperature changes unless the temps go to either extreme hot or cold. Hotter the fluid will act thinner and colder it will thicken up, but like I said the silicon based fluids are a little more consistent throughout seasonal temperature changes. I would be betting that your shocks may either need to be topped off with oil or need an oil change.

    Now to the shocks. Oil shocks on RC's are a little different than a compressed gas shock you'd find on a regular 1:1 scale passenger vehicle. Oil shocks will not rebound to their full extent because they are not pressurized, this is the springs job to do the rebounding. The oil's job is to only dampen the "bounce" out of the spring. If you have a shock off of the truck with the spring removed you'll see what I mean. You can compress the shock but the rebound is minimal, maybe 1/4 inch at best. Like Chadillac said if you put stiff springs on it that will rebound the trucks weight to it's fully upright position, your suspension will be overly stiff and it won't handle well at all.

    Now a gas shock is different, it will rebound to it's full extent by itself but you have to remember the application is totally different. There is a bigger weight ratio being put to each shock on a passenger vehicle so it has to aid in the rebound. But we won't get into that in depth because it's a totally different setup.

    I run 45wt oil in front and rear with double green springs in front and double black in rear. I set the preload rings so that when I set the truck down on the ground the a arms are just above level and it handles pretty well. Take a silver sharpee or white paint pen and put a mark on your pre load rings when they are screwed all the way to the shock cap. That way you can count how many turns you put in the pre load and keep each side equal.
    Last edited by CarGuy7a; 10-29-2011 at 07:54 PM.

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    so what is the exact order from softest to firmest with the double marks on the springs? i want a little stiffer front and rear on mine. the fronts i believe are double white, and rears are double yellow..... might be the other way around but i think thats what it is. i want some heavier oil as well. i have some 40wt and some 50 weight to choose from. it will be more for on road and parking lot than for racing so im thinking i should go with the 50wt.
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  5. #5
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    I wouldn't go higher then 40wt I don't think the stock shocks could handle 50wt even if you change the pistons,I've seen
    these shocks blow using 30wt. As for the springs the darker the color the stiffer they are.

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    ill probly just put some 40wt in them.

    and i dont really see why you say they cant handle it flashnitro? they have an all aluminum body with aluminum cap unlike my t-maxx which is all plastic with plastic cap. and my t-maxx with completely stock shocks can run 50wt unless you start jumping to big. but is best to get atleast aluminum caps or all aluminum shocks.
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  7. #7
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    I run 40wt and 45wt, d white, d green. Trucks handles fine. Ive only seen the caps pop off a revo that had very stiff springs. It was a older 2.5 revo and i think it had plastic shock bodys and caps. 40 to 45wt is fine. Just dont go to stiff or u will have a hard time driving your truck.. I will post vids of my slayer on the track in a few days and u can see for youself

  8. #8
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    I love my slayer pro for most situations. But if you're going to be pavement pounding, I think a jato would be a better fit for ya. But that being said I'm running 40wt with revo pistons and stock springs. Seems to be pretty versatile or maybe I'm just used to driving it
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  9. #9
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    One thing u need to keep in mind when choosing a spring/oil wt set up is what u plan on using your truck for? Racing, bashing or a lil of both.. Im setting my up for only track racing. And im trying to keep up with buggys with much bigger engines than mine. So i really need my truck to handle the best it could. Its just a few friends racing for pride and maybe a cold one..

  10. #10
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    Same here em my slayer against my buddies losi eight. He's the only contender LOL.
    If you're faster today, you won't be tomorrow.

  11. #11
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    If u cant beat him, crash into him..LOL.. Thats how i roll..
    Quote Originally Posted by CHADILLAC View Post
    Same here em my slayer against my buddies losi eight. He's the only contender LOL.

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    mines going to be set up for a little of everything, but mostly like road running/ light bashing. probly not much racing though. once i do convert mine to electric a lhs does some indoor shortcourse stuff so i would be racing a little. but i mostly plan on running mine outdoors for fun. and what do you mean you have revo pistons in yours chad?

    are there progressive rate springs for these slayers? i dont know much about them yet. or who makes parts for them either.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 08kgraves View Post
    ill probly just put some 40wt in them.

    and i dont really see why you say they cant handle it flashnitro? they have an all aluminum body with aluminum cap unlike my t-maxx which is all plastic with plastic cap. and my t-maxx with completely stock shocks can run 50wt unless you start jumping to big. but is best to get atleast aluminum caps or all aluminum shocks.
    The bottom caps are plastic take a closer look O-O.

  14. #14
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    Revo variable rate pistons part number #5461 I believe is the correct ones
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  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flashnitro View Post
    The bottom caps are plastic take a closer look O-O.
    oh, i havent had them off yet. they just look metal from what i seen but i wasnt paying attention really.
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  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. CarGuy7a's Avatar
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    I don't see any reason why these shocks would have problems running thicker oil than 30wt. I've run 45wt in mine ever since new without any problems. You might have some problems if you are jumping the truck off a cliff but who regularly does that? In fact the way the shocks are positioned in the truck makes them alot less susceptible to damage as they are being compressed pretty much straight on and very slightly is their angle changed while being compressed as compared to a shock on a Rustler or Slash. If you look at a Rustler's suspension when compressed, you'll see the angle of the shock drastically changes compared to the shock on a Slayer. This is why the caps on the Rustler/Slash's shocks can pop off easily under hard compression.

    The bottom caps on the shock would be the least likely part on the shock to fail under hard compression as the pressure is directed towards the top shock cap and bladder.

    You'll find that myself and many others here have ran higher than 30wt oil in these shock without problems.

    Quote Originally Posted by 08kgraves
    so what is the exact order from softest to firmest with the double marks on the springs?
    If you look in the manual there is a chart listing the springs, color codes, and compression rate. If you don't have the manual there is a pdf form manual on this site in the "products" section.

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    ah, thank you very much carguy! i will go download that now as i forgot about them.
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  18. #18
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    Thanks to all, very valuable information. The problem is also rebound. I push down and it will only rebound very little. I am going to replace fluid this week. I only have maybe 5 tanks through it.
    I can't even remember if I can adjust the springs while I type this. I will find out this week.
    Thanks again.

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. CarGuy7a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98NYFinestVette View Post
    The problem is also rebound. I push down and it will only rebound very little.
    Like I said in my first post. These shocks won't rebound the full weight of the truck, that's completely normal. You might get 1/2 to 3/4 inch rise after you push the truck down at best.

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    i can tell by the feel of mine that they are to soft of springs. so im going to end up getting two of each of the next stiffness up and try putting the stock rear on front first and next stiffness on the rear. and if still to soft i will put the next stiffest on the rear and move them to the front then. and probly just do some 40wt oil all the way around.
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  21. #21
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    Stock spring and 40/45wt is just fine for racing. If u want your truck to up back into place than u need to get much stiffer springs. But again thats more of a masher set up. I had some revo springs that i tryed out just becuz i had them and my chassis would not come close to hitting the ground when i drop it from about 4 feet. Not the set up i was looking for. Too stiff and you will roll your truck like crazy. Your best beat is to try a few springs and oil wt and see what works for u.

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    yup, its not gonna be raced much, and i dont feel like miking fluids or just buying 45wt so it will be either 40wt or 50wt, thats my options, and i have more 50wt so i might just use it instead. like i said before though it will be mostly basher/on road. and since theres no short course tracks near me for nitro i may take it to the bmx track i used to race at, that should be fun lol. dirt strait aways and jumps with huge banking corners that are now paved (used to be just dirt) but i also have two t-maxx's for that one being set up for racing even but yeah im going to get the next two heavier springs and play with it some. and when i can deffinately gonna be getting me a sway bar kit. and look into that rear brake some as well. also might lower it down some if i will be doing more on road to help the stability out lol
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarGuy7a View Post
    Like I said in my first post. These shocks won't rebound the full weight of the truck, that's completely normal. You might get 1/2 to 3/4 inch rise after you push the truck down at best.
    Thanks for the info. I plan on racing next season and I thought I would ask about this. I also have a Slash 4x4 that I will racing too.
    I noticed how different the shocks work between the two vehicles. When I notice how different they were, I thought I would ask if this was normal.

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