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  1. #81
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stallion 63 View Post
    Hi Snook,wouldn't alum shoes be better?
    Sure would, but all I have on hand are worn out.
    Iím getting low on fuel so a trip to the LHS is in the near future. If they donít have any aluminum shoes in stock I will order a couple sets if this setup fails to work well. I also cant find my 12 & 13T mod 1 clutch bellsÖ
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  2. #82
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    i think i have some aluminum shoes laying around that came with that ancient maxx i got from the guy down the road. didnt know they were better though. what makes them better anyway?
    there's no life like a LOW LIFE!
    Drag It!

  3. #83
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    Once you get some heat built up in the aluminum shoes they tend to grab the clutch bell a lot better than a composite shoe would. It’s especially noticeable with high torque engines. They also will require more maintenance due to the fact that instead of wearing away into just clutch dust some of the material being worn away will stay attached and roll over the edge of the shoe and mushroom out. In extreme cases the mushroom effect can bind against the flywheel and cause the shoes to not retract smoothly or even wear a groove in the clutch bell.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  4. #84
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    oh, i see. well my normal shoes work fine so ill just stick with them for now
    there's no life like a LOW LIFE!
    Drag It!

  5. #85
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    I have very few issues running the stock clutch with any Traxxas engine.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snook Man View Post
    Sure would, but all I have on hand are worn out.
    I’m getting low on fuel so a trip to the LHS is in the near future. If they don’t have any aluminum shoes in stock I will order a couple sets if this setup fails to work well. I also cant find my 12 & 13T mod 1 clutch bells…
    I always keep spare alum shoes.They've served me well over the years.Stopped using composites a long time ago.

    About the CB,after I changed the 13T CB on my strr truggy,it now pulls strongly and has good top speed.I'm happy with the 13/52 set up.I know the tmaxx diffs have a different gear ratio so let us know how the 12T/52 and 13T/52 CD works out.And don't forget the vids!Thanks.

  7. #87
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    Since rain is forecast for the next few days I decided to have another go at the track today. I installed a decent set of clutch shoes in the leading edge configuration and kept the clutch bell as a 14T since I canít find my smaller bells (on order).
    I spent about an hour with a push broom and a leaf blower trying to get the track in better condition.
    I guess where it does not see much use anymore the top surface is crusty. I can broom it off then leaf blow it and after you walk back over that section it just crumbles up under your feet again.
    I did run 3 tanks out on it but still canít get hooked up. Anything more than Ĺ throttle and the rig just become uncontrollable, even on the straight away. If I donít hit the turns almost perfect the truck just slides up and over the berms. I had intensions of bringing a set of 1/8th buggy tires with me to test but in my haste to get to the track I left them home.
    Thereís always next time.

    Anyway here's a video, without a camera man itís the best I can get with a tripod.
    The only other vantage point better is on the roof of the scoring building but the sun had too much glare at that time of day for the camera. I need a new camera or battery, this one keeps shutting off after a few minutes

    I also ran a couple laps on the paved banked oval before I packed up I had to make myself quit or I would have hurt the engine and the tires
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  8. #88
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    sweet!!.. not bad for a decomissioned track it ive seen some in far worse condition
    road rage its not just drivin its a blood sport

  9. #89
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    Any improvement in the low end,with the 14/52 combo and alum shoes?

  10. #90
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    I didn’t see much improvement if any. The other shoes were worn but still were biting decent. I was also running a little on the rich side to try and tame the truck to the track conditions somewhat so it would be hard to make a judgment yet. I polished the blue out of the bell before I installed it and with the aluminum shoes I see little discoloration so the clutch/bell temps at least stayed down.
    I’ve got it all ready to go with the 1/8th scale buggy wheels/tires to try out, but with all the rain we got yesterday and today it will be a while before the track dries out.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  11. #91
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    Maybe you should try a 13T cb to determine.Not too sure abt the 12T though.The smaller cbs use needle bearings,don't they?Hate those!

    After you're done,do an onroad test run to see how that goes.

  12. #92
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    I have a 13T on order, should be here by the time it dries up
    There are several manufacturers that make a 12T that use a standard 5x10mm BB and will work with a 3 shoe. I have a 12t that uses the needle bearings but it is not hardened steel and I'm running a steel spur on the CD, so if I feel the 13T is still too tall I can at least test with the 12T I have to see if it would be worth ordering one. As it is now, I believe the 13T will be the sweet spot with the truggy wheels/tires
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  13. #93
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    Yep!I bet the 13T is the way to go with a 52 spur,Tmaxx diffs or not.At least from my experience. Would have gone with 12T but they wear out too fast from gunning the throttle one too many times.I like to see a little wheel spin every now and then.Just for the heck of it. Personally,I don't care too much for high end top speed.I just want strong bottom end and good mids.Especially the mid.When you could see the sudden surge of power the engine puts out around 3/4 throttle.

  14. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snook Man View Post
    I have a 13T on order, should be here by the time it dries up
    There are several manufacturers that make a 12T that use a standard 5x10mm BB and will work with a 3 shoe. I have a 12t that uses the needle bearings but it is not hardened steel and I'm running a steel spur on the CD, so if I feel the 13T is still too tall I can at least test with the 12T I have to see if it would be worth ordering one. As it is now, I believe the 13T will be the sweet spot with the truggy wheels/tires
    One thing I do on my truggy is use 1 carbon fiber shoe and 2 aluminum shoes. The aluminum shoes were very grabby even with a heavier spring.... Maybe swapping one of the shoes for an aluminum shoe would help. Or decrease the clutch springs strength so they would engage sooner and not be fighting the spring as much to stay engaged..

    2 ideas anyways....
    Hey Traxxas,,, are you hearing me? There's a live one here you should grab up. And he's named after a fish, or pool table game,,,, pretty sure the fish though.....

    Get ready to move to Texas Snook. I think you're needed there...
    Founder of H.U.A.
    Hop Ups Anonymous

  15. #95
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    So many possibilities with this setup it’s too good not to take advantage of.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  16. #96
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    WOW! Snook,that's one heck of a build man.Looks very proportional looking at the whole truck now.With the buggy wheels/tires,I bet it'll be tearing up the tracks even with shorter gears.

    All truggies/muggies and buggies,should be made this way.

  17. #97
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    Thank's Stallion and NN. BTW... it was the fish

    I just posted a thread in the about Traxxas forum. You guys should let them know how you feel. They do listen if you talk loud enough.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  18. #98
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    Very nice job Snook. Is there a reason why you used the stock axles instead of dogbones or the upgraded traxxas ones?

  19. #99
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    Just testing it ATM. When I get everything they way I want it and have a better idea of what works best I will build another with all the good stuff most likely. I may even treat it to a new RX/TX
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  20. #100
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    man snook that thing is awesome!!! i hope traxxas is takin notes i really love that buggy look
    road rage its not just drivin its a blood sport

  21. #101
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    yup it is super cool looking, great build
    though i honestly did like it better with the pro .15 arms, looked more like a buggy

  22. #102
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    I like the buggy setup. Looks awesome. You had to order a 13t cb??? I thought with all the spares and everything you have you would have one for sure



    TRAXXAS, Now you have inspiration from snook for a 1/8 buggy
    Hows that nitro taste on your electric?

  23. #103
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    i know if traxxas offered a good 1/8th buggy i would buy one.
    there's no life like a LOW LIFE!
    Drag It!

  24. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snook Man View Post
    Thank's Stallion and NN. BTW... it was the fish

    I just posted a thread in the about Traxxas forum. You guys should let them know how you feel. They do listen if you talk loud enough.
    Never mind if traxxas won't "Do it".We all know what to do in our next build.

  25. #105
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    I finished up the buggy body mounting post today. I made a plate for the rear tower and attached the original post to it; I cut a TMaxx square body post down and mounted it to the front steering brace. Since the buggy body rarely touches the ground with the wing and front shock towers 2 mounts are plenty + it only takes a couple seconds to attach the shell.

    Rear post


    Front post


    I have bent a few buggy shock towers and beat up a bunch of shocks in the past when running the buggys due to the front tower and shocks being exposed with no body protection.
    I made 2 simple protectors out of round abs plastic rod that mount on the front bumper and in the original body post locations on the tower. It should help when I can’t keep all 4’s on the ground. The rods are easy to remove and if I want to run the bigger wheels/tires and a truck body I just install the stock body posts.

    Shock tower/shock protection.



    I also got bored and added a few stickers to the shell.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  26. #106
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    looking good snook, looking good.
    there's no life like a LOW LIFE!
    Drag It!

  27. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snook Man View Post
    I finished up the buggy body mounting post today. I made a plate for the rear tower and attached the original post to it; I cut a TMaxx square body post down and mounted it to the front steering brace. Since the buggy body rarely touches the ground with the wing and front shock towers 2 mounts are plenty + it only takes a couple seconds to attach the shell.

    Rear post


    Front post


    I have bent a few buggy shock towers and beat up a bunch of shocks in the past when running the buggys due to the front tower and shocks being exposed with no body protection.
    I made 2 simple protectors out of round abs plastic rod that mount on the front bumper and in the original body post locations on the tower. It should help when I can’t keep all 4’s on the ground. The rods are easy to remove and if I want to run the bigger wheels/tires and a truck body I just install the stock body posts.

    Shock tower/shock protection.



    I also got bored and added a few stickers to the shell.

    "Shock tower/shock protection" Icing on the cake!

  28. #108
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    I got a little more track time today with the 1/8th scale buggy tires and was somewhat satisfied with the truck performance. I burnt up another throttle/brake servo (2nd in two days) for some reason, so I need to address that issue before I can get any more track time.

    I did get the opportunity to observe some very skilled On Road drivers with some very nice vehicles. Most of the guys running were either factory sponsored or were sponsored at some point in time. I know these are not a Tmaxx but I just had to put up a video so everyone could hear the rpms these .21ís were turning and see the ability of these drivers.
    I also got to meet and talk to the guy who modifies a lot of the engine that were running today and for many professional drivers around the world .
    I also found out what the best purpose for cheap grape soda is and got a few on road pointers from a group of good guys.

    Turn this up and listen, sorry you couldnít be there to smell the rubber

    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  29. #109
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    Wow........

  30. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snook Man View Post
    I also found out what the best purpose for cheap grape soda is and got a few on road pointers from a group of good guys.
    My interest is piqued...
    The Super Derecho

  31. #111
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    About (20) 2 liter bottles of grape soda, drill a couple of holes in the cap, shake well and spray it on the track surface. Once the track soaks it up/dries, traction is unbelievable with foams. I wondered why I could never get really good traction with my on roads.
    These guys know every trick in the book, they may have helped written it
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  32. #112
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    nice man, those things are screaming!
    there's no life like a LOW LIFE!
    Drag It!

  33. #113
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    Still trying to get this thing dialed in:
    The rig is handling pretty well all around but with the same shocks and spring setup when running the smaller buggy wheels it is a little too bouncy over the small bumps when running at a good speed. If I up the shock oil weight with the same springs the rebound is too slow and the handling suffers all around. If I up the spring rate and oil to match, the suspension is too stiff and handling goes out the window. With the larger truggy wheels the height of the chassis is raised a little and the shock springs and oil wt work rather well together. I think the additional weight of the wheels/tires works to not allow the springs to rebound as quickly as when the lighter weight buggy tires are mounted with the added travel of the suspension or maybe Iím just grasping at straws. Iím trying to find a happy medium with the shocks and springs to get decent handling with both types of tires/wheels with the same shock/spring/oil setup.
    I have tried about every combination of springs and oil that is feasible but none work well with both wheels/tires so far.

    I took the design of the Proline power stokes and made a set of progressive springs kinda-sorta.
    1 Lower rate spring cut in Ĺ and a 1 higher rate spring cut in Ĺ. I glued two upper spring retainers together back to back to go between the two separate spring halves to keep the springs centered on the shock body.
    The lower rate spring has to almost compress fully before the higher rate spring begins to compress. It feels just about right for the buggy wheels and maybe just enough for the truggy wheels. I may need to play with the length of the springs some to fine tune but hopefully it will help for both setups. If not, I may just make some custom shock towers and revert to the 1/8th scale shocks.

    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  34. #114
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    could you try a little lighter spring for the heavier part of your setup?
    there's no life like a LOW LIFE!
    Drag It!

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