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  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    Just messing around

    Since it was rather cool and windy out today I was playing around with some different chassisís and parts from the Tmaxx. I think this may be a decent little combination.
    Itís basically just a Mutant Maxx type build using an Ofna LX-One chassis with a Tmaxx front and rear bolted to it. Wheelbase is almost 14 inches long.

    I just need to get a couple of center shafts the correct length or make a few adjustments to use what I have and make a couple custom braces from the bulkhead tabs to the chassis or center diff.
    I will use the old narrow arms and stock bulks for now to test, and if it handles well enough, I will spruce it up with the wider track arms and some other goodies.
    It should be pretty light weight and have a low COG even with a BB.
    Geared correctly I should be able to use either MT or truggy tires/wheels or1/8th buggy tires/wheels to change the characteristics of the handling. It should fly pretty well too



    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  2. #2
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    Nice! I am very interested. Trying different things can end bad...or good. Hopefully this will be good
    Hows that nitro taste on your electric?

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    cool, hope it works out for you man
    there's no life like a LOW LIFE!
    Drag It!

  4. #4
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    thats cool let me know how it rides

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. fantomaxx's Avatar
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    Cool will that make it a Tmuggie!
    454 bb maxx

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fantomaxx View Post
    Cool will that make it a Tmuggie!
    Something like that


    Did some more mockup today.

    I used the revo CD pinions to extend the diff drive cup to use the short center shafts I had and with a few bushings/spacers to keep the pinion from pushing into the ring gear they should work ok.
    I threw some MT wheels and tires on it and a buggy body to match the chassis and temporarily added a wing to see what it would look like.
    I need to make several braces and spacer plates, so it will be a while before I get to try it out.





    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  7. #7
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    that thing looks sweet! do you think i would be able to fit the savage 3 speed transmission on an extended chassis using the big red motor?

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    dude that looks sick, cant wait to see how it does
    there's no life like a LOW LIFE!
    Drag It!

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    After running this for 4 tanks of fuel I managed to crack a rear bulkhead and shear the front ring gear screws in a old stock 4910 diff. It was enough run time to see that it was by FAR the best handling Tmaxx hybrid version I have ever screwed together.
    I tore it down and am now assembling it with some aluminum bulks, BL EMaxx diffs and the wider track arms etc.
    I also need to use heavier diff lube in the CD as it was unloading to the front (probably why the old diff failed)
    I also saw a little chassis flex in the area where the bulks bolt to the chassis, just in front of the rear and the back of the front. I made 2 aluminum plates that extend further toward the center of the chassis and they are sandwiched between the bottom of the bulks and the chassis. It should take care of the flex completely once I make a better rear brace from the top of the bulkhead tabs to the receiver box.
    I should get some run time on Sunday; Iíll let you know how it goes.





    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  10. #10
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    Looks like it's going to be hard on drive line parts with the angles.

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    The only real angle is the offset of the center diff to the F&R diffs, a lot of buggies/truggies are setup the same way and the center shafts rarely fail. Its actually less of an angle than what a stock Tmaxx has for center shafts.
    I have run the LX One with .28’s and .30’s for many gallons and never had a center shaft failure.
    I’m more concerned with the front and rear diffs than anything else.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  12. #12
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    What I'm referring to is a compound angle. But if you have the output shafts all the same height and parallel to the chassis you'll be good.

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    It has taken a little longer than I expected to get this up and running the way I wanted.

    I made 2 new braces for the front and rear to help reduce the flex and to tie everything together a little better.

    I also ran into a little issue with the wide track arms and 3.3 axle carriers. I had no toe links that would work with the stock LX one steering bell crank. I had to make a custom drag link a little shorter to bring the bell crank arms a little closer together to use the toe links I had on hand.

    I also wanted to use my old reliable XTM 457 and a starter box. The biggest diameter 3 shoe flywheel I had required the engine to be lowered, the lowest engine mount I had was a little too short and the engine back plate hit the chassis about 1mm before the engine mount. I made 2mm shims to go between the engine block and the engine mounts to get the needed clearance.
    It should be worth the extra trouble as the flywheel and starter box wheel line up perfectly now.

    I have a few odds and ends to finish up but I should get some run time tomorrow afternoon.



    Front chassis brace. The rear is similar.


    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  14. #14
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    Looking pretty sweet,Snook.Truggy Maxx perhaps?Might want to try a 2 speed center and throw on some bumpers too!

  15. #15
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    slap some buggy tires on it as well
    Hows that nitro taste on your electric?

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    I will be using a front bumper, just didnít have it bolted on for the pics. No need for a 2 speed, I could gear it close to 55mph (by my calculations) if I wanted.

    A center diff is a 1:1 ratio unlike a 2 speed which would be a shorter ratio by far, and the 10th scale diffs are a taller gear set than the stock 1/8th scale diffs that came in the buggy.
    The .28 has plenty of torque for the taller gears and larger wheels/tiresÖHold on tight

    I will be trying buggy, truggy and MT tires/wheels to see which handles best. I also have mod 1 clutch bells from 13T through 18T to experiment with.

    I just finished trimming it out to run. RTR without fuel it weighs 9lbs 8oz. Not bad with that heavy BB sitting 1 ľ inches off the ground.
    It weighs considerably more than the test version and all its plastic, so I will probably have to play with the shock springs and oil wt to tune the suspension for the added weight.

    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  17. #17
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    Looks great, what pipe are you using?
    Sorry if I missed it.
    Do you think it will handle jumps well?




    God answers prayer,pray,believe,NEVER GIVE UP!!!

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    Iíve had the pipe for so long I forget what # it is It is almost the same as the Ofna 053 and works well with this engine (if you can stand the noise level).

    It should handle the jumps rather well.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    very well built snook. I'm tempted to do the same.

  20. #20
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    Thanks, awesome looking truck man.





    God answers prayer,pray,believe,NEVER GIVE UP!!!

  21. #21
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    so you gonna get a video of the first run?
    Hows that nitro taste on your electric?

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    Hard to video by yourself. No one ever wants to go play with the old Snook anymore, they all say the same thing…You stay too long when you take your trucks out
    I’ll see if I can find my tripod
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    i would come help ya out snook but you live a little far away in Ga. for me to come from ohio lol
    there's no life like a LOW LIFE!
    Drag It!

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snook Man View Post
    I will be using a front bumper, just didn’t have it bolted on for the pics. No need for a 2 speed, I could gear it close to 55mph (by my calculations) if I wanted.

    A center diff is a 1:1 ratio unlike a 2 speed which would be a shorter ratio by far, and the 10th scale diffs are a taller gear set than the stock 1/8th scale diffs that came in the buggy.
    The .28 has plenty of torque for the taller gears and larger wheels/tires…Hold on tight

    I will be trying buggy, truggy and MT tires/wheels to see which handles best. I also have mod 1 clutch bells from 13T through 18T to experiment with.

    I just finished trimming it out to run. RTR without fuel it weighs 9lbs 8oz. Not bad with that heavy BB sitting 1 ľ inches off the ground.
    It weighs considerably more than the test version and all its plastic, so I will probably have to play with the shock springs and oil wt to tune the suspension for the added weight.

    The reason I suggested a 2 speed was because I have a similar set up on my kyosho strr with the same tires and the ofna 52 teeth spider center diff 13T and 14T CB.The engine is SH.28.It's a little sluggish when I gun the throttle from a standstill and the top speed is nowhere near 55 mph.Let us know how your truck performs and the set up/mods you used.

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Ahh sort of like the Blackbird type setup.... Very nice, I was wondering when someone was going to sucessfully make a TMuggy...

    Somehow I knew it was going to be Snook to put one together sucessfully and completely... Many have tried and I never saw a final build....

    With the diffs on theupper side of the chassis the COG was dropped about 3-4 inches... That's huge!!!
    Founder of H.U.A.
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  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stallion 63 View Post
    The reason I suggested a 2 speed was because I have a similar set up on my kyosho strr with the same tires and the ofna 52 teeth spider center diff 13T and 14T CB.The engine is SH.28.It's a little sluggish when I gun the throttle from a standstill and the top speed is nowhere near 55 mph.Let us know how your truck performs and the set up/mods you used.
    I didnít mean to imply that this one would not be sluggish on the bottom end if geared for top speed. I will settle for a good bottom end torque and a decent top speed of around 42 MPH. Just keeping it simple with the single speed CDÖFor now

    I will keep you up to date when I get some run time and work out all the bugs.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitronaught View Post
    With the diffs on theupper side of the chassis the COG was dropped about 3-4 inches... That's huge!!!
    Yep, that few inches makes a major difference in jumping and handling.
    Its not complete yet but getting close.

    Mother Nature did not comply today, but I did find another bug while testing in the driveway when it wasnít too wet.
    The modifications to the steering bellcrank and the extra weight of the front end with the aluminum bulks and such made a big difference in the steering. Even with a fresh 1600MaH Hump pack and an almost new Hitec 645 steering was sluggish to say the least unless moving at a good speed and then it was too fast (if there is such a thing).
    It took a little bit to figure out exactly what the issue was. I came to the conclusion it was a combination of the added weight on the front, the shortness of the bellcrank arm and the mod I made bringing the bellcrank toe link arms closer together.
    The battery and servo was strong enough that when I installed a Kimbrough HD servo saver to test, the wheels would move approx Ĺ inch (without truck moving) but the servo would compress the saver spring completely. The shortness of the bellcrank arm also made the steering very fast with the wheels off the ground, so much so that about ľ inch turn of the TX wheel in either direction would snap the wheels to full lock.

    To add some leverage and to slow the speed down some I made an extension that mounts to the steering bellcrank arm. I added 1 inch from the original hole in the arm and curved the extension to have clearance of the a-arms. I also used a slightly shorter servo horn. I then just swapped the steering link from the inside of the servo horn to the outside and made the connection to the extension. Sounds easy huh? It had me scratching my head for a bit trying to come up with a solution but I works like a charm now.


    Itís supposed to rain tomorrow also, so I may find a few more bugs to work through.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  28. #28
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    Snook what tools do you use to cut the aluminum? also what kind of aluminum are those pieces made from? Once I head home for Christmas break I plan on working on some of my Trugg-Maxx Build. And if my Professors like me they may let me use some of the machines in the Engineering lab to cut my aluminum.
    Have you see anything about using LST diffs in the Maxx? I think i'm going to do the mod so I can use those in my Trugg-Maxx. As long as the gearing would be alright with a CD and LST Diffs.
    TRXnot so Newbie21

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRXnewbie21 View Post
    Snook what tools do you use to cut the aluminum? also what kind of aluminum are those pieces made from? Once I head home for Christmas break I plan on working on some of my Trugg-Maxx Build. And if my Professors like me they may let me use some of the machines in the Engineering lab to cut my aluminum.
    Have you see anything about using LST diffs in the Maxx? I think i'm going to do the mod so I can use those in my Trugg-Maxx. As long as the gearing would be alright with a CD and LST Diffs.
    HAHAHA when nitronaught said this was like a blackbird chassis i thought about your build and figured you would make a post in this.
    Hows that nitro taste on your electric?

  30. #30
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    not gonna lye, i read the words black bird and the first thing that popped in my head was call of duty: black ops. (they have a blackbird for a killstreak for those who dont know) lol
    there's no life like a LOW LIFE!
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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snook Man View Post

    LOL! THIS is just messing around?? Great fabrication work, man.
    My Karma runneth over your Dogma.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by ToXiC MeRv View Post
    HAHAHA when nitronaught said this was like a blackbird chassis i thought about your build and figured you would make a post in this.
    I'm so mad school came up on me so quickly. I've been wanting to work on this build since i got back to campus. I just can't wait for thanksgiving break where i can earn some quick cash and start ordering the parts I need.
    TRXnot so Newbie21

  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRXnewbie21 View Post
    Snook what tools do you use to cut the aluminum? also what kind of aluminum are those pieces made from? Once I head home for Christmas break I plan on working on some of my Trugg-Maxx Build. And if my Professors like me they may let me use some of the machines in the Engineering lab to cut my aluminum.
    Have you see anything about using LST diffs in the Maxx? I think i'm going to do the mod so I can use those in my Trugg-Maxx. As long as the gearing would be alright with a CD and LST Diffs.
    I make straight and angled cuts where possible with a chop saw, longer straight cuts with a table saw.
    I rough cut all my contoured parts with a Jig saw with bi-metal blades. I usually make a template out of plastic and transfer the design to the aluminum with a scribe. I cut as close as possible to the scribe line as I can and then finish to the line with a drum sander or a carbide dremel drum or sanding drum chucked in a drill press.
    Iím always on the look out for aluminum plate or bar stock and try to keep a decent selection of sizes on hand. I use T6 7075 for the main structural parts if at all possible, and T6 6061 for most everything else.
    I wouldnít recommend putting your time, energy and money into anything less then T6 6061 into a chassis.
    If you have to resort to a jig saw I can give you a lot of helpful advice to make it easier.
    If you can get access to the machines at school thatís a big +.

    The LST diffs work well once you make the adaptor bushings needed to mount them in the bulkheads. They are a shorter gear ratio than the stock diffs but you can make up the difference with the clutch bell easily if needed.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TastesLikeChicken View Post
    LOL! THIS is just messing around?? Great fabrication work, man.
    Thanks TLC, my messing around always seems to end up in a project somehow
    Now I'm thinking about a center brace like the Razorback
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snook Man View Post
    I make straight and angled cuts where possible with a chop saw, longer straight cuts with a table saw.
    I rough cut all my contoured parts with a Jig saw with bi-metal blades. I usually make a template out of plastic and transfer the design to the aluminum with a scribe. I cut as close as possible to the scribe line as I can and then finish to the line with a drum sander or a carbide dremel drum or sanding drum chucked in a drill press.
    I’m always on the look out for aluminum plate or bar stock and try to keep a decent selection of sizes on hand. I use T6 7075 for the main structural parts if at all possible, and T6 6061 for most everything else.
    I wouldn’t recommend putting your time, energy and money into anything less then T6 6061 into a chassis.
    If you have to resort to a jig saw I can give you a lot of helpful advice to make it easier.
    If you can get access to the machines at school that’s a big +.

    The LST diffs work well once you make the adaptor bushings needed to mount them in the bulkheads. They are a shorter gear ratio than the stock diffs but you can make up the difference with the clutch bell easily if needed.
    WHAT??? You made all that with hand tools?Not cnc?I thought you had the whole deal!Cnc lathe,milling and all !You are a real genius man!Do keep us posted on your progress.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snook Man View Post
    I didn’t mean to imply that this one would not be sluggish on the bottom end if geared for top speed. I will settle for a good bottom end torque and a decent top speed of around 42 MPH. Just keeping it simple with the single speed CD…For now

    I will keep you up to date when I get some run time and work out all the bugs.
    Actually,I was hoping that someone with your knowledge and expertise would try a 2 speed CD so that you can get a good bottom end and top speed.Haven't seen too many of those around.Maybe you could try that for your next project.

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stallion 63 View Post
    WHAT??? You made all that with hand tools?Not cnc?
    Yea, I still do it the old fashion way, if I had a CNC mill and a real lathe I would be dangerous No genius to it, just a lot of practice and patients. You have to love the hobby also.

    I got the chance to run a couple of tanks of fuel this morning in the street in front of the house. Itís still too wet to take it to the track but I can see Iím going to like this setup. Very quick off the line, good top speed and handles really well (on the street at least). I was also impressed with the turning radius.

    I did however see more flex in the chassis. When starting the engine with the starter box I could see movement between the clutch bell and spur gear when pushing the chassis down on the box. It wasnít a huge amount but enough that it concerned me and needed to be corrected or something would probably eventually fail.

    I like the idea of the center spine like the razorback but donít have the materials needed to make something similar to it atm.
    Instead I am making a simple flat brace which will connect the rear bulk tabs to the center diff and then tie into the front bulkhead/steering post brace and bulkhead. The receiver/battery box also acts as another attachment point for the brace between the rear bulks and the CD.

    Here are a couple of pics to show what I have come up with so far.

    Chassis with rear brace and CD top plate removed


    Plastic template


    Template fitted to chassis.


    I just need to make a few minor adjustments when I transfer the pattern to the aluminum and cut it out.
    If it works well I may combine the brace to include the front bulk and steering brace as a single piece.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  38. #38
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    Snook, did I ever tell you that your the man? Because you are
    there's no life like a LOW LIFE!
    Drag It!

  39. #39
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    wow my head hurts now
    if not the tmaxx its the 99 cobra

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snook Man View Post
    Yea, I still do it the old fashion way, if I had a CNC mill and a real lathe I would be dangerous No genius to it, just a lot of practice and patients. You have to love the hobby also.

    I got the chance to run a couple of tanks of fuel this morning in the street in front of the house. It’s still too wet to take it to the track but I can see I’m going to like this setup. Very quick off the line, good top speed and handles really well (on the street at least). I was also impressed with the turning radius.

    I did however see more flex in the chassis. When starting the engine with the starter box I could see movement between the clutch bell and spur gear when pushing the chassis down on the box. It wasn’t a huge amount but enough that it concerned me and needed to be corrected or something would probably eventually fail.

    I like the idea of the center spine like the razorback but don’t have the materials needed to make something similar to it atm.
    Instead I am making a simple flat brace which will connect the rear bulk tabs to the center diff and then tie into the front bulkhead/steering post brace and bulkhead. The receiver/battery box also acts as another attachment point for the brace between the rear bulks and the CD.

    Here are a couple of pics to show what I have come up with so far.

    Chassis with rear brace and CD top plate removed


    Plastic template


    Template fitted to chassis.


    I just need to make a few minor adjustments when I transfer the pattern to the aluminum and cut it out.
    If it works well I may combine the brace to include the front bulk and steering brace as a single piece.
    If you had a cnc,you would be indeed,dangerous!

    Chassis flex is a common issue with buggy and truggy chassis designs.The last time I did a similar build,I tried both,bracing on top using tie rods bolted to the CD top plate and the steering plate in front and a another at the rear bolted to the bulk.The other method,was running 2 alum rails bolted under the chassis.The ground clearance would be affected but the chassis was pretty stiff.
    Wouldn't centralising the front bracing to the middle of the chassis and the rear similarly so long as it can clear the engine fins be better?This should equalize the rigidity throughout the whole chassis.Your bracing template seems lob sided.Not enough support on the gear meshing side..Just my 2 cents.

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