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  1. #1
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    Wider is better, RPM Revolver Wheels Installed

    This is the best wheel I have used for stability and handling. It offers a full 1" wider stance over the Traxxas Dish Wheels, which is very noticeable. I can turn very aggressively and not flip over. The only negative with this wheel is that they're not quite a direct fit, but it was pretty easy to make them work. I had to shave down the very center portion of the wheel with a dremel (to make it shallower), so that the wheel stud would have more threads sticking out of the wheel in order to torque down the wheel nuts properly. Then I just used washers under the wheel nuts for a good bite. Here's my measurements from a few different combos.

    RPM Revolver Wide Base Wheels, Proline Dirt Hawg Tires
    10.68" overall width

    HPI Mesh Wheels, Proline Speed Hawg Tires
    10.37" overall width

    Traxxas Dish Wheels, Proline Dirt Hawg Tires
    9.68" overall width










  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jimbo74's Avatar
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    did you narrow those hweels or are you running hte rear buggy dirthawgs (1.75) on a truck wheel (2.0)

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    did you narrow those hweels or are you running hte rear buggy dirthawgs (1.75) on a truck wheel (2.0)
    These wheels are 1.61" wide. Perfect for the dirt hawgs.

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    That is the exact setup I will be running when my stock tires wear out....

    I noticed the width of the buggy rear and the width of the wide track revolvers matching up almost perfectly!
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  5. #5
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    looking good man, should help with your top speed goal

  6. #6
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    I really like this setup. I am thinking about doing something just like this, as my MERV won't stop flipping over. Could you please tell me what the model number is on the RPM wheels? and possibly the part number on the Pro Line Dirt Hawgs used? I wanna make sure I get the correct parts if I go to do this. Thanks a lot, I appreciate it!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Umar Musa View Post
    looking good man, should help with your top speed goal
    Thanks. I use my foams for the high speed stuff.

    Quote Originally Posted by lakeober View Post
    I really like this setup. I am thinking about doing something just like this, as my MERV won't stop flipping over. Could you please tell me what the model number is on the RPM wheels? and possibly the part number on the Pro Line Dirt Hawgs used? I wanna make sure I get the correct parts if I go to do this. Thanks a lot, I appreciate it!
    RPM Revolver Wide Base Wheels (#82232) and Proline Dirt Hawg I Tires (#1071-00). This will make a huge difference over the stock wheel setup.

  8. #8
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    Were these wheels actually intended for 1/10th scale vehicles? I think that's so cool that they fit on a MERV with a little modification. Does it effect your speed at all?

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Thanks for sharing. When my Dirt Hawgs are worn out (not too long from now), that is good moment to move away from my Titus bead locks.
    Nobody is born with experience.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by lakeober View Post
    Were these wheels actually intended for 1/10th scale vehicles? I think that's so cool that they fit on a MERV with a little modification. Does it effect your speed at all?
    They're not just for 1/10 vehicles. The 2.2" diameter wheels are a great fit on the Mini E-Revo. You just need to choose the correct tire. The dirt hawgs are taller than the stock tires, so they will increase your top speed.

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    By the way: The Dirt Hawgs I are 1.75" wide.
    Nobody is born with experience.

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Just don't make the mistake of buying truck dirt hawgs... these are buggy rear dirt hawgs.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jimbo74's Avatar
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    oh ok..... i thought the revolvers were truck wheels

    i swear i have seen then in a 2" wide version

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    Looks good. Any danger on breaking the knuckes or arms more with all that exposed now?
    "How far is the range on that thing?"

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martinarcher64 View Post
    Looks good. Any danger on breaking the knuckes or arms more with all that exposed now?
    I haven't had any problems.

  16. #16
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    It looks, to me, like it would stress the bearing more with this offset. But, we don't buy these things with the intentions of them lasting forever, do we?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastmachine View Post
    I had to shave down the very center portion of the wheel with a dremel (to make it shallower), so that the wheel stud would have more threads sticking out of the wheel in order to torque down the wheel nuts properly. Then I just used washers under the wheel nuts for a good bite. Here's my measurements from a few different combos.
    Did you shave them from the outside( lock nut side) or from the inside (knuckle side)? Also, should I use the slower gear? I'm running stock with 3S lipo. Did you strap the tires as well? They seem to be really tight on my hexnut, it will pull the hexnut off of merv when I take them off, did you shave any part of that?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firemandan View Post
    Did you shave them from the outside( lock nut side) or from the inside (knuckle side)? Also, should I use the slower gear? I'm running stock with 3S lipo. Did you strap the tires as well? They seem to be really tight on my hexnut, it will pull the hexnut off of merv when I take them off, did you shave any part of that?
    I'm thinking outside or the wheel would rub on the inside.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firemandan View Post
    Did you shave them from the outside( lock nut side) or from the inside (knuckle side)? Also, should I use the slower gear? I'm running stock with 3S lipo. Did you strap the tires as well? They seem to be really tight on my hexnut, it will pull the hexnut off of merv when I take them off, did you shave any part of that?
    I shaved the outside. Buy a temp gun and find out what combination works best for your application. Generally speaking, yes you need to gear down. I'm using carpet tape on the tires. The wheels are tight on the hex.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastmachine View Post
    This is the best wheel I have used for stability and handling. It offers a full 1" wider stance over the Traxxas Dish Wheels, which is very noticeable. I can turn very aggressively and not flip over. The only negative with this wheel is that they're not quite a direct fit, but it was pretty easy to make them work. I had to shave down the very center portion of the wheel with a dremel (to make it shallower), so that the wheel stud would have more threads sticking out of the wheel in order to torque down the wheel nuts properly. Then I just used washers under the wheel nuts for a good bite. Here's my measurements from a few different combos.

    RPM Revolver Wide Base Wheels, Proline Dirt Hawg Tires
    10.68" overall width

    HPI Mesh Wheels, Proline Speed Hawg Tires
    10.37" overall width

    Traxxas Dish Wheels, Proline Dirt Hawg Tires
    9.68" overall width









    i will be buying the same combo but my wheels are wobbling because of the steering block i am gonna buy integy alloy steering block for merv and i wonder if i need any other parts with it ? or is the blocks just enough ?

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jimbo74's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 007mrdr View Post
    i will be buying the same combo but my wheels are wobbling because of the steering block i am gonna buy integy alloy steering block for merv and i wonder if i need any other parts with it ? or is the blocks just enough ?

    i would pass on the integy

  22. #22
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    the steering block isnt tht bad actually
    Summit. MM 2200kv
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  23. #23
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    I just bought the buggy dirt hawg tires and RPM wide wheelbase revolver wheels. I read about how you had to shave the outside part of the wheel down. Can someone show me a pic or something because I'm having a hard time imagining what you're talking about.

  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jimbo74's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwe View Post
    I just bought the buggy dirt hawg tires and RPM wide wheelbase revolver wheels. I read about how you had to shave the outside part of the wheel down. Can someone show me a pic or something because I'm having a hard time imagining what you're talking about.

    it is the hub you need to shave, it is too thick to allow proper engagement of the axle nut to the axle

  25. #25
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    Ok, I get it thanks!

  26. #26
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    The hole where the axle comes through to put the nut on needs to be deeper. If you put your wheel on and attempt to put the nut on you will understand what we are talking about. Mine was started with a drill and bit. Then I tried to put it on my drill press but I guess my bit was too sharp because all it did was grab the plastic. Eventually I finished it with a Dremel. If I were to do it again I would just use the Dremel tool. Mine turned out a little crooked, the wheels wobble a little bit but still drives good. This was mainly because it was first started with a drill and bit and was not perfectly centered. Hope this helps. If you need a picture I will try to take one for you.

  27. #27
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    Thanks, a picture would be helpful.

  28. #28
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    I asked in another thread but never got a response, will the pro response tires fit on these rims?
    * "If it ain't broke, your doin it wrong" *

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwe View Post
    Thanks, a picture would be helpful.
    Do you have the wheels? Put them on the axle and attempt to put the nut on. The nut will not go on deep enough. It needs to have at least one thread showing on top of the lock nut. You have to cut/drill/dremel that hole deeper into the wheel. I dont have my camera with me atm or I would take a pic for you.

  30. #30
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    Ok. I think the wheels will be getting here tomorrow, so I'll try to get them on. It sounds like it will make more sense then.
    Last edited by kwe; 01-04-2012 at 08:09 PM.

  31. #31
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    The hole where the arrow is is what needs to be deeper. I went down to where I could see the small holes that you can see from the backside of the wheel. You can barely see the small holes in the picture. These wheels are so shiny they are hard to get a good pic of. Dont go too deep or there wont be enough meat left for strength. I have read that some use a washer inside to help strengthen it.

    Just take it slow and you will get there.



  32. #32
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    Jimbo74 said that I need to shave down the hub, not the wheel. Does it matter if I shave the hub instead of the wheel? Which would you suggest I do?

    So... I should just shave about 3mm?

    What tool(s) did you use to do that?

    Once again, thanks for all your help.

  33. #33
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    Hi do anyone know the part number of the hpi mesh wheels? And do you have a direct fit?
    Rustler Vxl Spc lipo 3s

  34. #34
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    I been running these wheels on a slash 4x4 they clear the front nuckles. Only running them cause I had some proline tires laying around they work great. Wish I still had my merv. Miss that lil guy
    E-maxx 3903
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  35. #35
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    Ok... so this is just an update on what has happened to me with the whole wheel and tire situation.

    I got the RPM wide wheelbase revolver wheels and Pro-line buggy dirt hawg tires. When I got them, I tried to sand down one of my hubs instead of the wheel, which didn't work so well. I think that a dremel would have worked better, but I don't have one, so I got the biggest drill bit that fit in my drill(which also fit in the nut hole perfectly) and slowly drilled out some of the plastic. I didn't feel like it went very well because there was barely any plastic left between the nut and the hub and all the wheels were pretty wobbly when I put them on. I drove it for a while and it performed pretty well. Right after I had discovered that the car can drive over the curb outside my house, the rear right wheel was ripped from between the nut and the hub. The entire hole was broken through, so I used some epoxy to glue the hub inside of the wheel. After it bonded(a day later), it worked pretty well and I think it reduced some of the wobbling, too. So I'll let you know what happens from here.

  36. #36
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    The epoxy didn't work. The hub fell out within the first 5 minutes of my first run on dirt. I'm boiling my wheels to get the tires of to re-use and then I will re-glue them on Traxxas 7171 white wall dish wheels.

    I WOULD NOT SUGGEST TO BUY RPM WIDE WHEELBASE WHEELS FOR THE MERV unless you are sure you know what you are doing!

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firemandan View Post
    The hole where the arrow is is what needs to be deeper. I went down to where I could see the small holes that you can see from the backside of the wheel. You can barely see the small holes in the picture. These wheels are so shiny they are hard to get a good pic of. Dont go too deep or there wont be enough meat left for strength. I have read that some use a washer inside to help strengthen it.

    Just take it slow and you will get there.


    I have not had any problems so far. I have not looked for washers to fit in there to strengthen it yet, but I will. I had no idea what I was doing and made it work just fine.

  38. #38
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    I have these rims on my Merv, but I took a slightly different route to bolt them on. I used a set of M4 barrel nuts from an extension kit that I had left over. When using these the only mod you need to do to the wheel is to run a drill bit thru the center hole just large enough to clearance the nut... very easy, very clean, and doesn't weaken the wheel any. Barrel nuts are readily available at any good hardware store or bolt supply house, or even on fleabay. Don't give up on these rims... they beat extenders hands down for strength and reliability.


  39. #39
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    Do you mind elaborating on your barrel nut mod? I'm trying to imagine it...

  40. #40
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    ^ ^ x2 Cobra
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