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  1. #1
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    First diff rebuild

    I'm a new Summit owner, relative novice to RC.

    I think my sons and I (okay, it was me driving at the time, but I enjoy spreading the "fun") blew up the front diff last night.

    We were running in some grass, and I was driving over a taller clump that was hiding a rock from my view. The rock hit the center skid plate dead center, and was heavy enough to stop the truck and throw it straight back. As soon as I hit the throttle to go forward, I heard the grinding and clicking in the front end.

    I have not yet disassembled the diff to inspect the damage.

    I've ordered a new diff from ebay. I'm planning to order the parts to rebuild this diff to have as a spare for "the next time".

    I don't have a LHS, nor do I have a local club with any experienced RC'ers to tutor me.

    I'd like to double check with everyone here to see if I am making the right diagnosis so far.

    I am also wondering if my parts list for the spare/rebuild is correct:
    5681 Carrier, diferential
    5382x Gear set, differential
    5678 Gear, locking diff output
    5379x Ring gear, diff pinion

    I am planning to put 50k weight oil in it.

  2. #2
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    Just take the diff apart and figure out what you need for the rebuild. It will be obvious what got destroyed. You will probably need either spider gears or ring and pinion gears. YOU WILL NOT NEED ALL THE THINGS YOU LISTED... Use the exploded views in the manual to identify the mashed parts and order em up.
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  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    But do clean every thing thoroughly to inspect all the parts.
    The diff carrier is a weak spot and can develop cracks so check it.the 5678 rarely breaks 5382x and 5378x are the likely culprits
    If it's the carrier,check the pinion bearings if they feel rough or gritty clean and re lube and check them again.When a pinion bearing goes,It lets the mesh with the ring gear change and skip on the ring gear under load ..results chipped ring gear teeth clicking, intermitent drive to that diff and eventualy total loss of drive and clicking.The spiders once a single tooth breaks off in there the dance of destruction begins most of the time,a few break and it happens fairly quick one wheel loses drive some times it doesnt happen right away but it can happen.i do the ebay diff deal as well same for axles.I
    keep some parts for trail repairs spare stub axle, couple different links....etc
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  4. #4
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    Thanks for the replies, everyone.

    I ordered the spare diff on eBay, once it gets here I'll swap it and tear down the other one. jimh, thanks for your suggestion, I had more or less decided to wait and see what the extent of the damage was before I ordered.

    I'm looking forward to digging into it, I guess since it's the first one. It's part of what I enjoy about the hobby so far. We'll see if it is a near constant problem, I'm sure my "enthusiasm" will change.

  5. #5
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    i would also look into shimming up those diffs. That makes them last a bunch longer. I run brushless and my diffs hold up much better shimmed than no shimmed.
    Revenge 1/8 buggy

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    I also packed the rear with marine grease(in the carrier) to keep the water out and with the shimming as well seems to help them take the shock loads better going to do the front next time it blows up
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  7. #7
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    I will definitely do that. Anything to extend the life.

    Standard washers for shims, i assume?
    ERBE, Summit, Thunder Tiger MT4

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    ^ Washers?? Shims are only a few thousands thick you stack them to get the gear mesh tighter / not to tight tho.

    AOD's links does it every time. Basic idea it will be a bit different because of the locking diff.

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-Diff-Shim-Mod
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...to-shim-a-diff.
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamann View Post
    I also packed the rear with marine grease(in the carrier) to keep the water out and with the shimming as well seems to help them take the shock loads better going to do the front next time it blows up
    how is teh grease holding up compared to the diff fluid? I have two diffs that are packed with grease and they are in the waiting wings for installation after current ones fail!
    Revenge 1/8 buggy

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamann View Post
    I also packed the rear with marine grease(in the carrier) to keep the water out and with the shimming as well seems to help them take the shock loads better going to do the front next time it blows up
    You put the grease in the housing on the ring & pinion?

    or

    You put the grease in the carrier (the diff cup)?

    If you put the grease in the diff cup, it is going to diff like crazy..
    Not sure of the summit, but the BL Revo has 30k diff fluid in the F&R diffs. Most pep use 50K front & 30k rear.
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    In the diff cup(carrier)It is not nearly as thick as the diff fluid so the diff ing is not too bad.don't have to worry about diff ing out we have lockers.keeps the crud out a little better.So far the rear is holding up pretty good considering i just went brush less and a bit mental right at the same time coincidence?...maybe...LOL
    Last edited by jamann; 08-20-2011 at 11:23 AM.
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  12. #12
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    has anyone experience with this differential carrier based on aluminium: Traxxas Summit Differential Gehäuse - Aluminium from truckmonster in Germany.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 10-24-2011 at 06:02 PM. Reason: Link to on-line retailer removed per community rule #11.
    teaage

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by teaage View Post
    has anyone experience with this differential carrier based on aluminium: Traxxas Summit Differential Gehäuse - Aluminium from truckmonster in Germany.
    Yes those are my videos On the home page of the site
    I was the tester and i beat on it pretty hard slipper locked tight and did as much stupid stuff as i could stand,I just can't destroy something for the sake of destroying something.The stock ones would have disintegrated in minutes doing stuff like that.they seem to be bombproof.
    Go to truckmonster's home page and scroll to the bottom of the page.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 10-24-2011 at 06:07 PM. Reason: Link to on-line retailer removed per community rule #11.
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  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamann View Post
    Yes those are my videos On the home page of the site
    I was the tester and i beat on it pretty hard slipper locked tight and did as much stupid stuff as i could stand,I just can't destroy something for the sake of destroying something.The stock ones would have disintegrated in minutes doing stuff like that.they seem to be bombproof.
    Go to truckmonster's home page and scroll to the bottom of the page.
    Sorry ksb wrong link was going to link the utube vid not that link....Doh... the medication is messing with my brain a bit
    http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL03C70A4EA606828B
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  15. #15
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    I am in the process of doing my rebuild as well, with the aluminum diff cups. I was wondering what kind of grease people were using for the ring and pinion? I have white lithium, thrust bearing grease and the regular grease from traxxas, is one better than the other? I was assuming the white lithium. Do I also apply grease inside the diff cup on the spider gears if I am using the ofna 120K diff lube?
    Last edited by CustomSummit; 02-26-2012 at 02:17 PM.

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    I used high temp bearing grease.i run in the wet a lot,it doesn't wash out.its main use boat trailer bearings going into salt water regularly


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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamann View Post
    I used high temp bearing grease.i run in the wet a lot,it doesn't wash out.its main use boat trailer bearings going into salt water regularly


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    did you apply it inside the diff cup on the spider gears as well?

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    Yes I did, no diff lube in mine just grease I didn't have any diff lube on hand. So far no issues,it diffs easier but we have lockers.Haven't blown up a diff since I went to the aluminum carriers


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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamann View Post
    Yes I did, no diff lube in mine just grease I didn't have any diff lube on hand. So far no issues,it diffs easier but we have lockers.Haven't blown up a diff since I went to the aluminum carriers


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks, so if you did use the diff lube, would you have still packed the carrier with grease? or is that then redundant?

    Also what do you find the best method to clean everything up before re-applying? standard engine degreaser? solvent?

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    Diff lube will accomplish the same thing helps dissipate some heat
    I used dechlorinated brake cleaner
    Cheaper than electric cleaner. I tried fairly hard to make them fail ,not so far


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  21. #21
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    finally got around to getting this thing back together, I am curious though before getting it in there, are the gears inside the diff cup supposed to be hard to turn after installing the alumunum diff cup? I used ofna 120K diff lube, and it does not spin nearly as freely as my stock diff, kinda of feels a little clunky and tough to turn by hand where my stock one is smooth and spins more freely. Figured I would ask before installing it and finding out I have to tear it out again

    Another note is the small blue gaskets on 2 of the spider gears seems to be disintegrating a bit, will this cause problems to replace them right away? Was kind of hoping to get it back together tonight.

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    Scanaris has a how to...in his thread pretty comprehensive thread at that.it should feel snug ish the I bar may need to be tweaked a bit to make it sit all the way down.


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  23. #23
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    thanks jamann, very helpful videos, I had forgotten about them. The I Bar seems to be fine, it looks like the rubber seals had started flaking off small bits of rubber and getting caught in the spider gears, once I replaced with a spare set it seems to be fine. I think the engine degeaser must have made them fall apart as I forgot to remove them when I cleaned it all up. Hopefully I can replace these blue seals and black rubber gasket without having to buy the gears as well.

  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    Mine were gone I didn't want to buy the carrier kit just for o rings so I omitted them packed it with marine grease and no issues so far been many months now


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