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  1. #121
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    PM me a link to the orriganal source please, cause my computer aint gettin 'em... Ain't technology wounderful???
    Doublethink: 2+2=4 while 2+2=0

  2. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by PowerToTheMaxx View Post
    PM me a link to the orriganal source please, cause my computer aint gettin 'em... Ain't technology wounderful???
    Ill shoot that to you!

  3. #123
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    hey A.O.D, I was reading one of your home pages I have a question about this topic....
    "The current drill motor upgrade options you will likely encounter are listed below, in order of power/speed improvement ( least to most gain ):"

    HPI GT550 Motor

    BaneBot RS550 Motor

    Johnson 12v Motor

    Kinmore 12v 42x66mm Motor

    Dewalt 14.4V Motor Part# 396505-21

    Dewalt 12V Motor Part# 396505-20

    I see you like the DeWalt 12v motor better than the 14.4 volt? .. I was wondering why?
    Can you elaborate on this topic? i.e. pros and cons..
    (Rich)..If its stock.....leave it in the box!

  4. #124
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    probably overvolting, alot of people use 12v and putting more volts through it. The motor can handle it but the brushes wear down quicker. The brushes are cheap and very easy to replace.
    Cons, brushes wear down quicker
    Pros, brushes are cheap
    Temperature wise dewalts can be run hottor and seem to like the overvolting.
    ( I personally haven't seen the size of the 12v motors but have read they are same dimension maybe even the same motor just with internals are different for the voltage requirements.)

  5. #125
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    Just got back from my LHS with a bag of freebies!!!! Looks like ill have power soon!

  6. #126
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    lucky you. My LHS always make me give them green stuff with dead presidents on them. Get that thing running will ya i want to see it in action before I try to go it.
    If its under control, your not going fast enough!

  7. #127
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    Ya, I'm about due for a free credit from my LHS too. Hope you get that thing running, just take it easy the first few times to seat the brushes and break in the batteries.
    Doublethink: 2+2=4 while 2+2=0

  8. #128
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    yep take it easy, hope all goes well

  9. #129
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    lol my LHS says " see ya tomorrow"!

    lol go to the LHS for me would ya?
    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-17-2011 at 10:32 AM. Reason: merge
    (Rich)..If its stock.....leave it in the box!

  10. #130
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    My LHS is very close, but because of the high volume of people and the relatavly small streets between my house and the LHS make it a 20-30min journy through stop and go traffic pretty much any time of the day. Rush hour never truly ends around here.
    Doublethink: 2+2=4 while 2+2=0

  11. #131
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    How do I get the brushes out to solder the wires to motor. I cant fine ends to plug onto the motor terminals so ive got to take Brushes out and solder wires on to terminals. Army, Power, and Trax Help!!!!!

  12. #132
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    ?????? were u buy motor????????? Maybe ask them. Call DeWalt and ask. Call a motor place that rebuilds the stupid things and ask them. It sould be easy to solder on connecters, you didn't notice this when you bought the motor. Did you even test the motor to see if it spins? Never heard of a problem like that, it sould be verry obvious on the back of the motor with a positive and a negitive contact that when energized, make the motor spinn. You saying that you dont have that ???????
    Doublethink: 2+2=4 while 2+2=0

  13. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by PowerToTheMaxx View Post
    ?????? were u buy motor????????? Maybe ask them. Call DeWalt and ask. Call a motor place that rebuilds the stupid things and ask them. It sould be easy to solder on connecters, you didn't notice this when you bought the motor. Did you even test the motor to see if it spins? Never heard of a problem like that, it sould be verry obvious on the back of the motor with a positive and a negitive contact that when energized, make the motor spinn. You saying that you dont have that ???????
    LOL!!!! I was going to use the same kind of end that is on the drill but after looking around for ends with a 90 degree turn couldnt find none. So....Now ive got to solder the wires onto the brushes. I was able to get a video on how to replace the brushes and I seen how its done. If you look at a brush kit for this motor your see the wire end im talking about. It looks like a end you would put on speakers. What is it that some people say polish in the motor?
    Last edited by _jarhead_; 09-16-2011 at 09:12 PM.

  14. #134
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    check at radio shack, lowes, or home depot for thse spade connectors, do they have to be 90 degree connectors????
    (Rich)..If its stock.....leave it in the box!

  15. #135
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    don't worry about 90 degree connector just use straight.
    Dewalt use a solid core cable and use that connector so that the wire isn't bent at 90degrees as that will snap over time.
    We're using more flexable wire which can be bent but still you don't want tight 90 degree bend,you want nice sweeping loop.
    auto shops, electrical repair shops,some diy shops.
    Buy a few for spares. as most the connectors snap trying to fit large cable in. it is possible but since you have connectors to pull apart from esc and motor just solder directly to spade and cover with heatshrink remember heat shrink goes on first then soldered.

  16. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by goalieman3037 View Post
    check at radio shack, lowes, or home depot for thse spade connectors, do they have to be 90 degree connectors????
    Radio shack here needs to shut down! Lowest and Home Depot didn't have the 90 degree. At the tome 90's were what I wanted but solder would be better I suppose.

    Quote Originally Posted by trax de max View Post
    don't worry about 90 degree connector just use straight.
    Dewalt use a solid core cable and use that connector so that the wire isn't bent at 90degrees as that will snap over time.
    We're using more flexable wire which can be bent but still you don't want tight 90 degree bend,you want nice sweeping loop.
    auto shops, electrical repair shops,some diy shops.
    Buy a few for spares. as most the connectors snap trying to fit large cable in. it is possible but since you have connectors to pull apart from esc and motor just solder directly to spade and cover with heatshrink remember heat shrink goes on first then soldered.
    Yeah.....Solder is what im going to do with some heat shrink. Thanks Trax, Goalie, and Power!!!
    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-17-2011 at 10:32 AM. Reason: merge

  17. #137
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    Radio shack everywhere needs to shut down everywhere! they have changed, most thing i use to go there for, they dont have anymore! so whats the eta on the truck project???
    (Rich)..If its stock.....leave it in the box!

  18. #138
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    Im soooo at my soldering iron! Its not getting hot like it should. Im about ready to make it grow wings and introduce it to the wall. Dont ever get a Power Probe (PP PPSK) Self-Igniting Butane Soldering Iron, Hot Knife and Hot Air Torch Kit. JUNK!!!!!!!!! I would think this would work......
    Features an electronic ignition and flame adjustment from 1/2" to 2 1/2".
    Easily refillable with butane and will last up to 2 hours between refills.
    Max. Temp: 2500 F(when used as a torch)
    Max. Temp: 950 F (when used as a soldering tool)
    120 Watt
    500 BTU
    Last edited by _jarhead_; 09-17-2011 at 03:58 PM.

  19. #139
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    All right......Just got back from my LHS and they got all my stuff soldered for me! Now....Time to brake out the book and see how to program the ESC. Im going to start off with the stock batts then do the lipos. My question now is dont I have to reprogram the ESC when I go to lipos due to the LVC? THANKS!!

  20. #140
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    i can't remember if you had a new esc or not, but you could set neutral point on that anyway.
    Don't forget the LVC has to be programmed for neutral point also.
    The lvc will kick in early using nimhs.
    It's a new motor so the brushes will need to be broken in.Various methods.
    But the question from moving to lipos from Nimhs with that esc is no programming required as it doesn't have an LVC to program

  21. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by trax de max View Post
    i can't remember if you had a new esc or not, but you could set neutral point on that anyway.
    Don't forget the LVC has to be programmed for neutral point also.
    The lvc will kick in early using nimhs.
    It's a new motor so the brushes will need to be broken in.Various methods.
    But the question from moving to lipos from Nimhs with that esc is no programming required as it doesn't have an LVC to program
    How do I tell if its the NEW ESC or not? I would think its the NEW one. Ive seem to misplace my Traxxas book so.....Im looking around on here to see how to program the ESC. Dont the ESC need to be programmed first then the LVC. Will I have to program LVC every time i use the Lipos? As for the motor ill just turn the truck on its top and let the wheels turn slow for about 10 mins and hope that will work.

  22. #142
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    i thought you had bought a new esc also.
    If the esc was in with the receiver and transmitter then it should be set already.
    The lvc will need programming for neutral point thats for sure. But you only need to do it once.
    for the motor try training mode on esc unless you want to try water method.

  23. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by trax de max View Post
    i thought you had bought a new esc also.
    If the esc was in with the receiver and transmitter then it should be set already.
    The lvc will need programming for neutral point thats for sure. But you only need to do it once.
    for the motor try training mode on esc unless you want to try water method.
    Its the same ESC that come with the truck but ive never put power to the system yet! Training mode and the other 2 modes is what im trying to figure out how to do. All I know is the little button on the ESC ill have push and hold but thats it!!!! I think the wife may have put the book in the trash.

  24. #144
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    All books are up online at www.traxxas.com, click on products, then Emaxx then downloads or somthing and they are all there, even 3906 ones...
    Doublethink: 2+2=4 while 2+2=0

  25. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by PowerToTheMaxx View Post
    All books are up online at www.traxxas.com, click on products, then Emaxx then downloads or somthing and they are all there, even 3906 ones...
    Thanks!!! Ive been reading it for about 5 mins now! LOL!!!! As for my charger.....I hate it!!!!!

  26. #146
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    http://traxxas.com/sites/default/fil...l_100226_0.pdf
    This is what ive been looking for!!! Page 17!

  27. #147
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    Technology can be helpful at times, I guess.
    Doublethink: 2+2=4 while 2+2=0

  28. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by PowerToTheMaxx View Post
    Technology can be helpful at times, I guess.
    LOL!!! Sometimes!

  29. #149
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    Until you get the repair bill....
    Doublethink: 2+2=4 while 2+2=0

  30. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by PowerToTheMaxx View Post
    Until you get the repair bill....
    Very true Power!

  31. #151
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    Blast Off in about 3 hrs!!! The batts are on charge now!!!!!!! Then ive got to brake in the brushes!

  32. #152
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    cant type

    ok now you know we are all waiting to see video............but I'm sure we can wait till the motors broke in, so we can see it in full blown action!
    (Rich)..If its stock.....leave it in the box!

  33. #153
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    Braking motor in right now!!!!! 5 more mins to go!!!

    Motor is now broken in ! I took the pinon gear off the motor and put the ESC in mode 3 (train mode). To start off....I went from slow for about 10 sec. to about 3/4 gas for about 10 mins. Then I went full throttle for 1 more min. Gradually slowed down till motor stopped. Installed the pinon gear back on the motor and put the ESC in mode 1 (sport mode) played in the living room for about 5 mins and the Traxxas batts were just about dead. ESC was very cool and the motor wasnt that hot at all .
    Now ive got some more questions!
    1. Why is it if I turn the remote wheel to the right my truck goes left? My remote steering and throttle trim are set straight up at the 0 and the neutral switch is at 50/50.
    2. Is about 15-18 mins. all ill get off the stock batts?
    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-26-2011 at 06:07 PM. Reason: merge

  34. #154
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    mr jarhead you have a pm

    If im doing this right go here and download the manual, then look at page 30, you can reverse the steering in the transmitter programing if you have the right transmitter

    http://traxxas.com/products/models/e...maxx-downloads
    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-26-2011 at 06:08 PM. Reason: merge
    (Rich)..If its stock.....leave it in the box!

  35. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by goalieman3037 View Post
    If im doing this right go here and download the manual, then look at page 30, you can reverse the steering in the transmitter programing if you have the right transmitter

    http://traxxas.com/products/models/e...maxx-downloads
    Goalie....I was reading that and now ive got a battery that is about to grow wings!!!! Its a Traxxas batt that come with the truck and it dont want to discharge. The charger ive got will discharge first. The first time i had to charge it it did fine. Now im trying to charge it again so I can get the steering right. Its been on the charger now for 1hr and 40 mins and its still at 8.914v 0.25A 000110mah. It didnt take this long to do both of them for the first time.

  36. #156
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    didnt you have some trouble with that charger before?, and the lhs programed it to work for you?...maybe you need to look online for that charger and see if you can get the manual for it? Im just guessing you may not have the manual??? Im jealous gonna be a little while still before my new truck is road ready!
    (Rich)..If its stock.....leave it in the box!

  37. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by goalieman3037 View Post
    didnt you have some trouble with that charger before?, and the lhs programed it to work for you?...maybe you need to look online for that charger and see if you can get the manual for it? Im just guessing you may not have the manual??? Im jealous gonna be a little while still before my new truck is road ready!
    The trouble I had with it was I didnt understand the manual. The LHS did program it for the stock batts and lipos. It works fine on the lipos and the other Traxxas batt. Its just this 1 battery that is a pain!!!!!

  38. #158
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    any chance the battery is bad?
    (Rich)..If its stock.....leave it in the box!

  39. #159
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    Thats what im thinking!
    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-26-2011 at 06:09 PM. Reason: Edited on account of boarderline Traxxas bashing.

  40. #160
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    Traxxas batts arnt the best, I killed 4 of them within the first 5 runs of my maxx, but they replaced them for free, after a fashion, and the new ones they sent have been working fine.

    15 min is a long time for the stock 3300mah batts, and thats prob because your cycleing them. I can get over 45 min out of mine in first gear, in tranning mode doing crawler stuff, but if i swich to full power and 2nd gear, i get about 10. Lipos or just bigger nimh would work great. Duratrex and promatch both make good nimh, contact army for good lipo options. Look into traxxas lipos, even thought they are only 25c, they will give you a half price replacement every year, no mater what shape the pack is in.
    Doublethink: 2+2=4 while 2+2=0

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