Page 1 of 9 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 338
  1. #1
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ft Bragg N.C.
    Posts
    379
    Ok.....The stock motor plate will not work on this Dewalt 14.4 . To start off I did grind a little on the trans and the motor did fit in the mount but the screw holes that you mount the motor to the plate are so far apart. It looks like I wouldn't have no adjustment at all. A friend of mine let me use his single 775 mount to get a ideal of what needs to be done but looks like it has the same issue. Can someone help and when I get off ill post pictures so y'all can see what im talking about with part# from the motor. I've seen alot of peoples use the stock plate but don't understand how it worked. Thanks!!!

    The part# on my motor is 396506-11
    Last edited by cooleocool; 08-17-2011 at 12:04 PM. Reason: merge

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    England
    Posts
    5,788
    Have you measured the distance between the mounting holes on the motor & the holes on the mounting plate- they may not be the same since the 775 motor/ mount uses a different mounting pattern compared to smaller motors- you need to double check that before buying any mounting plate ( baring in mind the mount actually has a single hole and curved slot, so you need to measure from the hole to the middle of the slot, or measure the holes on the 775 motor if you can borrow one ).
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ft Bragg N.C.
    Posts
    379
    Quote Originally Posted by ArmyofDarkness View Post
    Have you measured the distance between the mounting holes on the motor & the holes on the mounting plate- they may not be the same since the 775 motor/ mount uses a different mounting pattern compared to smaller motors- you need to double check that before buying any mounting plate ( baring in mind the mount actually has a single hole and curved slot, so you need to measure from the hole to the middle of the slot, or measure the holes on the 775 motor if you can borrow one ).
    LOL! Army....I was hoping you would reply. To answer your question....No I haven't! Didn't think it would be this much of a pain. My friend will bring his bad 775 over tonight so I can get some measurements. Ill pm you tonight.

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ft Bragg N.C.
    Posts
    379
    Looks like the 775 spacing from one mounting bolt to the other is 29 mm. Still doing research!!!!

  5. #5
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    United Kingdom of England land.
    Posts
    1,820
    there was a drawing for a dewalt with all measurements i had bookmarked but lost all the bookmarks but theres one on the net somewhere.

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ft Bragg N.C.
    Posts
    379
    Quote Originally Posted by trax de max View Post
    there was a drawing for a dewalt with all measurements i had bookmarked but lost all the bookmarks but theres one on the net somewhere.
    I wish I could find it! Lol!!!!

  7. #7
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    United Kingdom of England land.
    Posts
    1,820
    heres one but not the one i have found previously, scroll down.
    http://www.wa4dsy.com/robot/dewalt-drill-motor

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ft Bragg N.C.
    Posts
    379
    Quote Originally Posted by trax de max View Post
    heres one but not the one i have found previously, scroll down.
    http://www.wa4dsy.com/robot/dewalt-drill-motor
    That's that same part # as the one I have. I just seen the part # I added earlier was wrong. Thanks to my fat fingers and little phone buttons!!!

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    England
    Posts
    5,788
    32.5mm mounting hole spacing unless I'm going daft^

    ----

    If you have the dewalt I would measure the mounting spacing on that just to confirm ( center to center of each mounting hole ).
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ft Bragg N.C.
    Posts
    379
    Quote Originally Posted by ArmyofDarkness View Post
    32.5mm mounting hole spacing unless I'm going daft^

    ----

    If you have the dewalt I would measure the mounting spacing on that just to confirm ( center to center of each mounting hole ).
    That's the 1st thing im doing when I get home. 12-13 hr work days sucks!!! LOL!

  11. #11
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    United Kingdom of England land.
    Posts
    1,820
    if i remember right there is three mounting holes but only two can be used as ones on the edge of the plate. the other holes thats there must be for air flow or something.

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ft Bragg N.C.
    Posts
    379
    Quote Originally Posted by trax de max View Post
    if i remember right there is three mounting holes but only two can be used as ones on the edge of the plate. the other holes thats there must be for air flow or something.
    You are right! The motor does have 3 mounting holes. Im going to use the 2 that are straight across from each other for better support.

  13. #13
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Chicago, IL
    Posts
    2,107
    If I remember correctly, the DeWalt requires a compleate reshape of the holes in the moter plate like in this thread:

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...ll-Electronics
    Doublethink: 2+2=4 while 2+2=0

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ft Bragg N.C.
    Posts
    379
    Your right again Army 32.5mm-33mm ish!

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    England
    Posts
    5,788
    Sounds like you could tweak the kershaw 700 mount to accept the dewalt more easily than hacking up the stocker, just means enlarging the hole & curved slot ( outside edge ) so that the screw holes line up, then use a nice big washer with the mounting screws. This is the part of the hobby where you step away from 'bolt-on' and 'plug & play' upgrades and enter into the custom mods arena...

    There are other options, but it requires building the mount from scratch using the stocker or 700 mount as the template & enlarging it slightly, just in case enlarging the holes leaves the mount a bit too weak due to lack of material around the edges...
    Last edited by ArmyofDarkness; 08-17-2011 at 10:17 PM.
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  16. #16
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ft Bragg N.C.
    Posts
    379
    Ive been trying to do the motor mount holes at 5&11 o-clock. After looking at the way he has is motor mount holes set at 3&9 o-clock........I was able to do the same! Im still going to make another mount so I can have more adjustments for other gears. I also seen he still had his stock 68t trans gear still on. I should have my 19t pin. gear Friday. Thanks PowerToTheMaxx!

    Little late on hacking up the stock plate! LOL!!! As for building one from scratch.....Thats coming up soon!!! That way I should have a little more room to play with gears. Starting with 19/68 and see how that works out. Thanks Army!

    Last edited by cooleocool; 08-18-2011 at 02:14 PM. Reason: merge

  17. #17
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ft Bragg N.C.
    Posts
    379
    Should have plate and motor back on tonight!

  18. #18
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Usquam sed hic
    Posts
    1,570
    When you get it put back together, post some pics if you can!



    God answers prayer,pray,believe,NEVER GIVE UP!!!

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ft Bragg N.C.
    Posts
    379
    Yeah.....I will!!! I should have some new ones added tonight.

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ft Bragg N.C.
    Posts
    379
    well....About to mount the motor then back on the truck.



    MORE TO COME!!!!!!
    Last edited by _jarhead_; 08-18-2011 at 08:38 PM.

  21. #21
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ft Bragg N.C.
    Posts
    379
    More pics!


    Cover is just setting on it until tomorrow 19t pin gear will be in.

  22. #22
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    United Kingdom of England land.
    Posts
    1,820
    excellent, i haven't seen pics of this models mod before, but why the shims between motor and plate.
    I'm just thinking about flexing while running it might strip some teeth.
    If only the motor shafts was longer i had to put my pinion on backwards only because i have a old different spur, much closer to the motor mount and the screw only grips right on the edge of the shaft.
    To get the full benefit Lipo's will be your next step.
    Last edited by trax de max; 08-19-2011 at 04:48 AM.

  23. #23
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ft Bragg N.C.
    Posts
    379
    Quote Originally Posted by trax de max View Post
    excellent, i haven't seen pics of this models mod before, but why the shims between motor and plate.
    I'm just thinking about flexing while running it might strip some teeth.
    If only the motor shafts was longer i had to put my pinion on backwards only because i have a old different spur, much closer to the motor mount and the screw only grips right on the edge of the shaft.
    To get the full benefit Lipo's will be your next step.
    I had to install shims because one of the motor case tabs I grinned off when I was trying to get the mounting holes at 11&5 o-clock. The screws should be fine because their long and they went into the motor a little way. Yeah......Ill have to put my gear on backwards also!

  24. #24
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ft Bragg N.C.
    Posts
    379
    19t dont reach so......Looks like ill have to get a 21 or 22 but dont know what trans gear ill have to do with this set-up. If i ran
    21/68=3.238
    22/68=3.090
    21/62=2.952
    22/62=2.818
    21/58=2.761
    22/58=2.636
    What would be the best way to go with out stuff getting hot? THANKS!!!
    Last edited by _jarhead_; 08-20-2011 at 09:04 PM.

  25. #25
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Louisiana
    Posts
    642
    I think I used 22/68 and it ran a little hot but I didn't want to go lower because it didn't have the speed I would have liked allready

  26. #26
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ft Bragg N.C.
    Posts
    379
    The esc or motor ran hot? If you did the 21/68 wouldnt that pick your speed up a little? Thanks for your input!!!

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    England
    Posts
    5,788
    For the sake of getting the gears to actually mesh well, you'll probably need to use the largest spur available which is the 68t, then the smallest pinion which will allow a decent mesh- wouldn't like to guess at the ideal gearing as you may not be able to run it regardless :P ( 'it' being ideal gearing- got to use whatever works when you have such a large motor that effects the mesh )

    Just bare in mind larger pinion and / or smaller spur = higher gearing for more top speed & reduced torque, smaller pinion and / or larger spur = lower gearing for less top speed & more torque.
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  28. #28
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ft Bragg N.C.
    Posts
    379
    Quote Originally Posted by ArmyofDarkness View Post
    For the sake of getting the gears to actually mesh well, you'll probably need to use the largest spur available which is the 68t, then the smallest pinion which will allow a decent mesh- wouldn't like to guess at the ideal gearing as you may not be able to run it regardless :P ( 'it' being ideal gearing- got to use whatever works when you have such a large motor that effects the mesh )

    Just bare in mind larger pinion and / or smaller spur = higher gearing for more top speed & reduced torque, smaller pinion and / or larger spur = lower gearing for less top speed & more torque.
    Thanks Army! Looks like 22/68 it is then and maybe a Esc fan also. What about Lipos? Recommendations???? LOL!!!
    Last edited by _jarhead_; 08-20-2011 at 10:23 PM.

  29. #29
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    United Kingdom of England land.
    Posts
    1,820
    sorry i typed the wrong thing in

  30. #30
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ft Bragg N.C.
    Posts
    379
    Quote Originally Posted by trax de max View Post
    sorry i typed the wrong thing in
    What? Im lost! LOL!!!! Trax de max.....Didnt you do this same set up? What gears did you use?
    Looks like ill be getting a 21t and 22t pin gears. Im going to start off with the 22t and get a esc fan. Josh68625 told me his ran a little hot with the 22/68 but if he ran a 21/68 wouldnt he get more speed with that set up or would i run hotter?

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    England
    Posts
    5,788
    2x 2s 25-40c continuous ~5000mah or as large as will fit/ you can afford; these larger brushed motors can be quite current-hungry if you push them hard enough so decent batts are needed for sure, along with an LVC.
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  32. #32
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ft Bragg N.C.
    Posts
    379
    Quote Originally Posted by ArmyofDarkness View Post
    2x 2s 25-40c continuous ~5000mah or as large as will fit/ you can afford; these larger brushed motors can be quite current-hungry if you push them hard enough so decent batts are needed for sure, along with an LVC.
    What is a good brand to go with. I don't know jack about Lipos! I do know the charger I got the other day will do all types of batt/lipos. Its a TP610C AC/DC and paid $100 for it I think.

  33. #33
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    United Kingdom of England land.
    Posts
    1,820
    Quote Originally Posted by _jarhead_ View Post
    What? Im lost! LOL!!!! Trax de max.....Didnt you do this same set up? What gears did you use?
    Looks like ill be getting a 21t and 22t pin gears. Im going to start off with the 22t and get a esc fan. Josh68625 told me his ran a little hot with the 22/68 but if he ran a 21/68 wouldnt he get more speed with that set up or would i run hotter?
    on that post i typed something wrong in but i couldn't delete it had to type something couldn't leave it blank.
    Last edited by trax de max; 08-21-2011 at 04:00 PM.

  34. #34
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ft Bragg N.C.
    Posts
    379
    Quote Originally Posted by trax de max View Post
    on that post i typed something wrong in but i couldn't delete it had to type something couldn't leave it blank.
    LOL!!! Thats fine I know how it is. Im in the market for some Lipos now....What brand do you recommend?

  35. #35
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    United Kingdom of England land.
    Posts
    1,820
    the ones i use are from a shop thats banned on here but alot of people on here use spc i think. make sure you have charger, LVC and charge sack before the lipo purchase, Traxxas has started to do lipos now, but just get whats affordable and at least 30C.Don't go off some forums tests to see which is best ones out there.Mine are priced in the bottom end bracket and have been good.
    Whats it like running the motor on Nimhs, i threw my Nimhs in the recycle bin when i got the new motor.
    Last edited by trax de max; 08-21-2011 at 05:41 PM.

  36. #36
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ft Bragg N.C.
    Posts
    379
    Quote Originally Posted by trax de max View Post
    the ones i use are from a shop thats banned on here but alot of people on here use spc i think. make sure you have charger, LVC and charge sack before the lipo purchase, Traxxas has started to do lipos now, but just get whats affordable and at least 30C.Don't go off some forums tests to see which is best ones out there.Mine are priced in the bottom end bracket and have been good.
    Whats it like running the motor on Nimhs, i threw my Nimhs in the recycle bin when i got the new motor.
    Trax....Pm me more info! I still haven't put power to the system. Im lacking a 22t gear. Im trying to get my ducks in a row. LOL!!!!!
    Last edited by _jarhead_; 08-21-2011 at 07:25 PM.

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    England
    Posts
    5,788
    Depending on your budget & the pack dimensions, something from hobbypartz.com will probably work quite nicely- either the Blue lipos or the Gens Ace- nice lipos for a smaller budget. The other 'hobby' lipos are great too, the ******* ******** packs or the ********* ones- again it depends on the dimensions really provided whatever you look at can supply about ~100amps or more continuous. SPC & SMC sell some great packs that are well priced, especially if you want some larger ones for more runtime; just bare in mind if the motor or esc is runnign hot you may need to take cooling down breaks, running non-stop for an hour wont do you any favours as such..

    There is a large list of all the major brands of lipo retailers at the bottom of my useful links page- don't forget the LVC ( chargery bm6 from ebay is great ).
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  38. #38
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ft Bragg N.C.
    Posts
    379
    Quote Originally Posted by ArmyofDarkness View Post
    Depending on your budget & the pack dimensions, something from hobbypartz.com will probably work quite nicely- either the Blue lipos or the Gens Ace- nice lipos for a smaller budget. The other 'hobby' lipos are great too, the ******* ******** packs or the ********* ones- again it depends on the dimensions really provided whatever you look at can supply about ~100amps or more continuous. SPC & SMC sell some great packs that are well priced, especially if you want some larger ones for more runtime; just bare in mind if the motor or esc is runnign hot you may need to take cooling down breaks, running non-stop for an hour wont do you any favours as such..

    There is a large list of all the major brands of lipo retailers at the bottom of my useful links page- don't forget the LVC ( chargery bm6 from ebay is great ).
    Ill like to spend about $150 on Lipos. Ill get a LVC thats a must!!! Dont look like ill have my 22t pin gear until Friday. I dont care! LOL!!! Ive been installing the rest of my RPM stuff and until I get Lipos, 22t, and LVC it will just look good on the table. Im still going to make another motor plate for it but want to workout the bugs first. Ill post up pics after all the RPM stuff is done. Thanks for the help Army!!!!!

  39. #39
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ft Bragg N.C.
    Posts
    379
    Interesting! A123 cells have a very high energy density like Lipo cells, but are inherently safer and 99% indestructible, so do not have to be used with an LVC (low voltage cut-off) device, and can be charged much quicker given the correct equipment is used. Dewalt 36v battery pack!!!!!!!!!!! Dewalt Motor powered by Dewalt batteries! Would I have to get 2 battery packs or will i be able to make it with 1?

  40. #40
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    England
    Posts
    5,788
    A123 cells are still used by a few guys ( myself included ), but they kinda went out of fashion due to cost and weight; you have to run a 5s2p setup ( 10 cells total ) to get the same power a a couple 2s lipos in series ( A123 cells are ~2300mah ). Tricky to make that setup work with the evx2 as you cant split 10 cells into two different sized packs, they both have to have 5 cells each and be ran in parallel- that requires you to rewire the esc for a single battery pack + add a parallel harness. Now you introduce esc temp issues as the BEC is being powered by ~ 18v fresh off the charger rather than ~8v.

    Then there's the issue of dewalt batteries no longer using genuine A123 branded / manufactured cells unless you get lucky, they use less capable generic Li-ion cells nowadays apparently. There is also the price issue ( ~$10-12 per genuine A123 cell x 10 + wiring and shrinkwrap if you go DIY ) compared to better spec lipos and the weight issue as mentioned; 10 cells is about the same as 14 nimhs.

    I'd think very carefully about choosing A123s for use in the brushed emaxx, much better off with lipos really...
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •