New ERBE owner. and a stupid question

[jettcity1]

So I have the new ERBE running with the stock NiMH batteries to get the hang of it, got a good charger and its running fine BUT when I get LiPos for it, how do I set the ESC for the new LiPo batteries? The owners manual that was in the box is for the 5603 model that has a completely different motor/ESC combo.In the single page note thats has STOP at the top it says to reset the Mamba Monster to the correct LiPo cutoff voltage prior to running LiPos. I did NOT get a Mamba Monster manual. Do I just plug in LiPos and go run it? There is a switch on the fan cooled ESC that I turn on to start the truck and start the system after I turn on the hand held transmitter(radio). The actual owners manual has completely different pictures and operating instructions for the "Castle Creations Monster mamba" that came out of the box. Is there a 5608 manual? The pictures and everything I have here is all wrong. The only thing I have to read is a one page black and white sheet with some instructions but its not enough info. For what I spent on this rig, it should have the correct manual? Do I have the wrong manual?

[87 GN]

correct manual:
You need Castle link to program the ESC

Check AOD's links
direct from CastleCreations ( the esc manufacturers ):
MMM FAQ

Driver's ED Manual

LED warning light meanings

[gordongekko]

you should have a small yellow manual from castle...

you can find the manual on the castle creation website ( look for support )...

when you plug your batteries, you will ear beeps ( 4-5-6 beep ) that will tell you how many lipo cell you plug ( 4-5-6 cells ). It mean you are on the auto lipo detection. if not, refer to the castle creation website.

one good advice is to buy a castle link... so you can set the cut off voltage.

and look for "army of darkness" faq link...

[87 GN]

Do some home work before you buy batts... Also set the LVC between 3.2 & 3.5. JMO set it at 3.4, the diff is a couple min of run time. Here is a start of batts to choise from. Google will help find links.
JMO start with 2/2s then when you get to know the truck then maybe go to 5s or 6s.

MY BATTS:
2S 8000 x 28C = 224,000 divide 1000 = 224 amps
3S 5200 x 40C = 208,000 divide 1000 = 208 amps

The
more amps the better / minimun of 120 amps.

Higher the mAh the longer the runtime.

8000 mAh about 45 min & a 5000 mAh about 30 min.

Batts in series double the voltage:
2x 2s 20c 5000mah = 4s 20c 5000mah

Batts in parrallel double the mah capacity:
2x 2s 20c 5000mah = 2s 20c 10,000mah.



2S
Direct Fit...........
2s Hyperion 5000 mAh 45C Soft
2s SPC 2s 5200 40C
2s SPC 2s 6000 30C
2s SMC 6000 mAh 28c
2s SMC 8000 mAh 28C Soft Case Lipo
2s SMC 9000 mAh 28C Soft Case Lipo
2s team orion carbon 7000 35c
2s ******* ******** 6000mah 25-50c few layers of duct tape on the top of the pack for a snug fit.
2s Nosram Fat Cobra hardcase
2s HiCountryHobbies/Billowy Power 5200 mAh 50c
2s RC DUDE Power 5000 mah 35c RCDude.com
2S Sky Lipo 5000 mah 40C -- fit snugly

Mod's.............
2s ******* 30c 5000 mAh soft - Extend Batt Door Out
2S ******* 5200 mAh 5.2 Hard Case - Trim Batt Door For Wires
2S ******* 5000 mAh 5.0 Hard Case - Trim Batt Door For Wires
2s ***** ********* 5000 mAh/30c/hardcase -- remove both “L” brackets, take “L” bracket that was at the back of compartment, move screw to closest hole to corner of bracket and attach to where front “L” bracket was located. Distance should be PERFECT, nice and snug!



3S
Direct Fit..............
3s Hyperion 5000 mAh 45C Soft
3s Max Amps -6000xls
3s Team Orion Carbon 4700 mAh 45C
3s Kypom K6 6000 mAh
3s RC DUDE Power 5000 mAh 35c snug 29mm tall
3s HiCountryHobbies/Billowy Power 5200 mAh/50c snug 28mm tall
3s ***** 5000 mAh 30c
3s *********x 5800 mAh 30c - enlarge hole on battery door

Mod's...remove retainers & back out or trim screws if they extend into battery compartment
3s SMC 5500 mAh 28c
3S SPC 5200 mAh 40C
3s ******* ******** 6.0 6000 mAh 25-50c
3s ******* 5000 mAh 30c soft - Minor Mod/Extend Battery Door Out



4S
4s ******* 4000 mAh 30c - Minor Mod/Extend Battery Door Out (Same size as the ******* 3s 5000mah 30c soft)

[jettcity1]

Ok, I found my little yellow book, I did not know this was the instructions for the actual vehicle. I will admit that after reading through some of it, I am more confused now than before. I am going to need to plug my truck into my PC and download a program and than tune my ECS to my personal preference prior to running LiPos? I thought this would be a "LiPo ready" like plug and play. I'll admit that this is way over my head and this is coming from a former Tmaxx guy that has gone through gallons of nitro. Yes, I want a nice electric rig but not one that I need to have a bachelors degree to operate. I am afraid that just operating this thing is damaging it. I need some serious help, I am clueless.Oh yeah, where do I get a "Castle Link" again, sorry for all the stupid questions.

[87 GN]

where do I get a "Castle Link" again, sorry for all the stupid questions.

Ebay or any hobby store. You will get it figured out, keep reading & keep coming back for Q&A, This truck will spank your TMaxx

have a go at this link another one of AOD's this will help alot.

CASTLE LINK GUIDE

[jettcity1]

Can I just install a set of LiPos and turn the truck on or do I have to do all this programming prior to? It is a brand new truck and I have only run it on NiMH a few times. I should not have to buy all this additional hardware and reprogram a new truck that is advertised as "liPo ready". I am not a pro, I just want to do some bashing here.Can I just run it the way it is set from the factory on LiPos? I know, whats up with this newbee?

[87 GN]

The last link I gave you will walk you straight thru it. Where do you live if another member is close they might help you get started. The one thing that Has To Be set is the LVC. Low Voltage Cutout. If you do not set it you (can) will run the lipo batt to low & the lipo's will die, a needless death.

Sorry to say, but really need to set the LVC. You can use the force & time the runs but I do not suggest doing that for a noobie. A seasoned member just told me he killed 4 new pack because he was using the force & lost track of time. I am not sure but I think you need to set the ESC to auto lipo any ways from new so it will count the cells. GL & keeeeep reading you will get there..

[jettcity1]

Thanks for the info , its good and bad news. I like the truck but it sure seems like alot of work and additional requirements just to run LiPos in this thing. It appears that I have to open up some components and hook it up to a PC....AFTER I buy additional hardware and wiring and download software,just to run LiPos.I like the truck but nowhere on this forum did i read anything like this before, most guys take it out of the box and have fun with it. I would think this thing would be preset or at least have better information regarding these procedures. The programming and setting of these components looks easy to some of the "techy" guys but "Murphys law" follows me everyday.I can almost bet that I will mess something up and there goes one expensive playtoy. I got a bad feeling about this rig already, it is already getting to be a problem and I just took it out of the box yesterday.

I got a hobby shop near me, Im going to look real stupid carrying my gear in there and saying...***, help me.
When I downloaded the free software from Castle Link, I got a WARNING message that I have never seen before. It said the the version ( recent) did not recognize Windows XP and continuing will seriously jeopardize future operations....I clicked "continue" and installed it but once again "Murphys Law" like I said. Its getting complicated already and I havent even bought the Castle Link yet. Is it just Me or does everyone have these same problems? This thing is BRAND NEW.

The Castle Link hardware/software should be INCLUDED in this truck when purchased new if it is required. I cannot understand this at all. Now I need to go and find this stuff.

[Gray Chipmunk]

Don't worry too much about the Castle link. You don't need it to use the truck with LiPo batteries. The Auto LiPo is programmed at the factory on the new ESC's to cutoff at 3.2v per cell, which is plenty safe for 2s and 3s batteries. The Castle link is nice to have to change settings like punch control and brake strength, but it is definitely not needed. I don't own one and have alot of fun with my ERBE.

[Cameron]

I agree with Grey it is not an absolute requirement, but it is something very nice to have. Leaving yourself without the option to play with settings on a reprogrammable speed control kinda defeats the purpose of a programmable speed control.

Can you post a pic of your truck? You mentioned the manual with a different motor combo all together.

[87 GN]

Sounds like you might have bought the Brushed Revo instead. Little more plug & play. But you haven't even started working on the truck. Rebuilding diffs replacing broken parts bulks, A arms, drive shafts, body mounts, & etc..etc.. Then there is the battery care, & chargers. We will help you all we can but this might not be the hobby for you. Read eveything you can, it will get easer

[87 GN]

Don't worry too much about the Castle link. You don't need it to use the truck with LiPo batteries. The Auto LiPo is programmed at the factory on the new ESC's to cutoff at 3.2v per cell, which is plenty safe for 2s and 3s batteries. The Castle link is nice to have to change settings like punch control and brake strength, but it is definitely not needed. I don't own one and have alot of fun with my ERBE.

I am not sure is it 3.2? I thought the last ESC I just bought was set at 3.0. When I reprogramed it to.

[Cameron]

thats what mine was at as well under the new firmware. 3.0v/cell i bumped mine up to 3.5v/cell just to play safe i know i could co lower but no sense risking my batteries/truck for sake of a couple minutes run time.

[87 GN]

That is what I have all my ESC's at 3.5. You can safely run 3.4, but if you time your runs then the LVC is just another safety for your batts. JMO

GL... OP...

[jettcity1]

Its a 5608 castlecreations, Monster Mamba. I'll get some pics on here. thanks for the assistance and yes, I do enjoy RC and used to wrench on My TMaxx all the time. Its the computer stuff I dont want to mess with, I am all over the tinkering and wrenches.

[Gray Chipmunk]

I am not sure is it 3.2? I thought the last ESC I just bought was set at 3.0. When I reprogramed it to.

My ERBE is only a month old and According to the Castle Drivers Ed Guide that came with it (revision date 01/2011)

"Setting 2: Auto-Lipo (Default) This setting automatically detects the number of LiPo cells you have plugged in. It will automatically set the cut-off to 3.2 volts per cell. It will beep the number of cells in your Lipo pack between the initialization tones and the arming tones on initial power up of the controller."

The instructions included with my batteries stated

"Set your speed control to hard cut-off at 3V/cell or higher-3.2V per cell is best."

I am not sure what the LVC programming on the older MM esc's was, but according to the instructions it seems the new ones have a safe LVC for LiPo batteries. If you want to be extra safe you can make it higher, such as 3.5V/cell and only sacrifice a few minutes run time.

[ksb51rl]

3.2 V/cell is not a high enough LVC, no matter what Castle says. I'm a big Castle fan, but they are WRONG about this. Do I know more than Castle? Nah, but consider this: they've already changed their default value from 3.0 to 3.2 V/cell. For overall best performance and longevity of your LiPo packs, set your LVC to a minimum of 3.4 V/cell.

@jettcity1, You can manually program your Monster using the instructions starting on Page 20 of the Castle Creations Driver's ED Guide. Unfortunately, you CANNOT raise the too-low LVC manually.