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  1. #1
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    Slayer PRO 4x4 upgrades

    So a few weeks ago, I bought a Slayer PRO 4x4 and I'm totally hooked on the world of nitro rc. I'd should call it the "nitro fever" because I'm already thinking about upgrades. Since I'm new to this and I'm learning a lot from forums, I'd need a little assistance on compatibility. Are aftermarket parts for the Slayer compatible with the Slayer PRO and if not, what other model has parts that are?

  2. #2
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    Anything that does not have to do with arms, push rods or center driveshaft.
    The Super Derecho

  3. #3
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    The Revo aftermarket parts work except the suspension upgrades but most other Revo parts are compatible. The first thing I would buy would be 17mm hex wheels hubs so you can use lots of other tires styles/brands i have found a good set of 1/8 scale buggy wheels and soft tires work best on track. I also would buy Integy CNC motor mount because the cast stock one will break easy and when it does it takes the spur gear and air intake tube with it! Any other questions just hit me up I club race my Slayer and it does well after I setup the truck. Good Luck!

  4. #4
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    That's good to know. I'm definitely looking to do some suspension upgrades since I broke two rod ends within the first few hours after I finished the break-in and tuning session. This motor sure does have a lot of power! There are very few tracks around my area so I've been hitting the BMX track. This is a little rough on the suspension since the jumps are high (probably since it's an ABA track). I've noticed that it does have a tendency to roll and I'm thinking that's due to the small tires and I'm thinking a little wider tire will help eliminate that.

  5. #5
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    savannamick, im putting one together and so far i have 17mm 1/8 buggy wheels, rear spool, rear brake, and center diff. what else would be a good upgrade. shock/springs/sway bar???? im going to use a 3.3 for now. not trying to take over this post but i think it would help tom will06 too.

  6. #6
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    Get the swaybars, definitely useful. A Buku clutch is nice, too, since it lets you tune the way the clutch engages with the clutch and motor in the truck. If you have the center diff, change the oil to 500k so you can get some power to the rear wheels. Proline makes some beadlock wheels with a 14mm hex that will let you put on better tires.
    Slash 4x4
    Slayer Pro
    Nitro 4-Tec 3.3

  7. #7
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    Other than a weight advantage, are there any other pros to having a pull start vs ez start? Also, I want to do some plastic replacing since metal is a little more reliable (my opinion). Any recommendations on companies or equipment available for me to look at?

  8. #8
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    Tom

    Have you looked at the Pit Pass section under hop ups......Slayden has a good setup.

    Plus want do you want to do with your truck, race, bash? If your going to be running a track most of the time your setup for the truck will be much different than a bash setup.
    Last edited by HazzMatt; 08-02-2011 at 10:07 AM. Reason: Tom became Ted.....LOL......3rd beer
    This is getting expensive!!!!!!

  9. #9
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    SFT2

    We're going to steal a thread again....LOL

    How you like that clutch and how long have you had it???
    This is getting expensive!!!!!!

  10. #10
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    I haven't checked the Pit Pass area out that much yet so I'll do so and see what Slayden has going on... As far as what I'm trying to do; I like customization. I would like to have something that can "take a lickin' and keep on tickin'" but with a few changes can become a racer. We have one track that is a little bit of a drive from me so majority of my time will be spent at a local BMX track and over-grown fields.

    Don't worry about takin' over this thread as long as it deals with upgrading the Slayer then it's fair game!

  11. #11
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    Reading this post felt like I was reading about myself. I have a Slayer Pro and I have been setting it up for race. I have installed sway bars, replaced rear dif. pro line tires with bead locks, front suspension/steering upgrades, harden yokes and some other goodies.
    I did buy a extra set of shocks. I saw a someone on ebay selling shock pistons. In the add the seller wrote that if you drill the pistons out with a certain size drill bit, this will work with a certain weight oil.
    I also bought the Variable Damping Kit GTR SHocks too. Some of the items I bought will be for testing to see if it works under certain conditions.
    I a 43 year old rookie in the RC Off Road Racing. I took a 31 years off. LOL
    This is a great thread, I think it is helping everyone share there thoughts and ideas. Keep the thread going.

  12. #12
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    98NYFinestVette: What kind of rear dif did you upgrade too and what benefits have you gained?

  13. #13
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    not sure but i think this is what he did.. thats what i did to my diff. havent ran my truck yet as im still waiting on a few parts

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by HazzMatt View Post
    SFT2

    We're going to steal a thread again....LOL

    How you like that clutch and how long have you had it???
    A couple of months and it's been on the stock 3.3 and now an OS 21. The thing is great. Since it's so easily adjustable you can set the idle where it's reliable, then set the clutch to suit the idle. If it bogs, screw in two screws a quarter turn and see where it gets you. Between the Buku clutch and 4PKS's throttle accel setting it's almost like driving an electric, but with more noise and smoke. Now I just have to get the brakes working right. I need more rear and less front so it'll stop sliding the front end through turns.
    Slash 4x4
    Slayer Pro
    Nitro 4-Tec 3.3

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom_will6 View Post
    98NYFinestVette: What kind of rear dif did you upgrade too and what benefits have you gained?
    I will have to ask the shop what they sold me. LOL I don't remember, but I like how it pulls out of a turn.

  16. #16
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    was it a rear spool?
    Quote Originally Posted by 98NYFinestVette View Post
    I will have to ask the shop what they sold me. LOL I don't remember, but I like how it pulls out of a turn.

  17. #17
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    What is the best way to align the front wheels? I think the toe is wrong because I can't seem to hold a solid trim on the steering.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by emraiders81 View Post
    was it a rear spool?
    This is a aftermarket diff, allowing more power and less slip to the rear wheels.

  19. #19
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    Just installed the sway bar kit and boy, I can definitely tell a difference in handling. I would say that should be the first upgrade you should make if you plan on doing anything at high-speed with this beast of a car. the power to weight ratio is insane!! Love it!

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom_will6 View Post
    What is the best way to align the front wheels? I think the toe is wrong because I can't seem to hold a solid trim on the steering.
    I just eyeball mine. Not perfect but pretty close. On all my cars I still need to adjust my trim some. Nothing extreme though.

    If you are still having problems, make sure your servo is centered and horn not slipping. Also check your linkages are at the correct length.

    If that doesn’t work you prob have something bent or broken that you haven’t noticed. Sometimes it’s hard to tell until you take it apart. I just took my Revo apart the other day and found a bent push rod and a-arm.
    This is getting expensive!!!!!!

  21. #21
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    Yeah... I did the eyeball thing first but I guess I'm getting cross-eyed now that I'm in my 30's so what I did to help remedy the problem was lay the car on one side with the power to the servo "on". If I heard the servo straining to keep the wheels straight, I adjusted the tie rod for he tire on the bottom. Then I used a level to get the top tire in line with the bottom one. As for the rear tires... I did the best I could with the level.

  22. #22
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    Would it be better to have fixed tie-rods or the adjustable ones that it comes with? I saw a photo of some guys Slayer Pro with the fixed aluminum ones and thought it was a pretty good idea.

  23. #23
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    disregard that last post... upon further investigation, they were adjustable... just made from aluminum...

  24. #24
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    I like the idea of the level and setting it on its side to get it tracking straight. To check or set toe, just measure the distance from center to center of the tire, at the front of the tire and at the back of the tire. It the distance is the same, it has 0 toe, if the front distance is smaller that the rear, you are toe-in, a slight amount of toe-in helps remove wandering. I had a spool in the rear and took it out, it seemed to roll a lot when cornering too fast, and was real squirrely on straights if too much throttle was applied and traction was lost.

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