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Thread: SumRevo

  1. #241
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87 GN View Post
    Traxxas doesn't sell
    don't you know... & they fit perfectly....
    Tell me about it, i ended up buying a sway bar kit i didn't need to get 2 of those darn washers...

    New body looks amazing too.
    I love this whole orange and black thing you got going on
    (RAH)² (AH)³ + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA)² + (OOH)(LA)²

  2. #242
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    Looks unreal

  3. #243
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Thank You.. pic's really don't do it justice.......when the lighting is just right it glows orange.......
    Still building URTOAST, few things to finish up & a couple of parts to order.

    Castle 10 Amp BEC:

    Jump back to the Savox SA-1230SG.......I bought the same servo for my Basher Revo. I was thinking this servo wouldn't need a external 10 amp BEC... I did just a "short" run without & not real sure but I think I was getting a little brown out. So for $20.00 I order up a couple of them. I do have a glitch buster, prob should have tried it.

    Glitch Buster....
    4700UF 10V NCC RADIAL ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITORS
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/4700UF-10V-N...item1e6682f78f


    The Castle 10 Amp BEC is preset at 5.1v. Using Castle Link I changed the voltage to 6v.
    Not much to installing the 10 Amp BEC, just a little wiring, soldering, & removing the red wire from the ESC.......then....Simple plug the BEC into any of the unused ports.. I use a little double sided servo tape & mount the BEC to the chassis.....
    went for a full run today, everything is working good....


    Refer to this to setup the Mamba Monster ( MMM ) esc for maximum performance:
    CASTLE LINK GUIDE



    ===

    ===


    how to remove the red wire without just cutting it.

    34,899
    Last edited by 87 GN; 01-20-2013 at 06:33 PM. Reason: R
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  4. #244
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    While on the topic of servo's, (stock 2075) I strip one of the gears on SumRevo. Not sure what happened, didn't hit anything, just thinking plastic gears. So I ordered a couple of repair kits. p/n 2072. Not much to installing new gears, pretty straight forward.


    === The damage.......see a few teeth missing...

    ===installed, for pic only..O'ring & the bearing are up, first two parts to come off, before getting the gears off.

    ===the orange spot is on the (Output gear) this gear does have a correct direction as pic'd
    it can be put on 180 deg off...

    ===the waterproof gasket does have a correct direction..better pic of the Output gear..


    have linked this before but here it is again....align dual servo's......
    Last edited by 87 GN; 01-20-2013 at 06:44 PM. Reason: link
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  5. #245
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    87 GN what u bec used ? for give hgh voltage to servo ? or like a boost on throttlle ?

  6. #246
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    10 amp Castle Creation BEC...... is for HV (High Voltage) servo.....
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  7. #247
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Tires & Balancer:


    little flashback.....

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post4908845

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post4909771

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5177829


    These are the rims & tires I going to use.

    Blast Spoke rims / Phaltline tires / three wraps of monkey tape..
    290 grams / width 2.750 / OD 5.530


    ===Balanced

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  8. #248
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    few pic.............


    ===

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  9. #249
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    Looking sweet !!! I think your dog needs a bath though. Saw him rolling in the mystery smell over on post#286 inside the wheel.
    If its not breaken then your not racing.

  10. #250
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Thanks..Frankie aka (Frances) has had a hard life......

    MAMBA MONSTER 2:

    QUICK START GUIDE IMPORTANT: You must calibrate your radio to the ESC! 1. Install the ESC • Solder a high quality battery connector to the ESC. Mount the ESC and motor into the vehicle • Plug in the 3 motor wires to the ESC • Plug in the ESC Rx lead to CH2 on your receiver • Make sure the ESC’s switch is off 2. Calibrate the radio transmitter • Plug in a battery • Holding full throttle on your transmitter, turn the switch ON • After a few seconds you’ll hear multiple tones and the red LED will come on • Now hold full brake and after a few seconds you’ll hear multiple tones and the yellow LED will come on • Now relax to neutral and after a few seconds you’ll hear multiple tones and ALL the LEDs will light up. • A few seconds later the ESC will arm with a double tone and you’re ready to go!

    CARE AND FEEDING OF YOUR MAMBA MONSTER 2: Limits:
    Mamba Monster 2 is incredibly powerful, but know his limits. 6S (25.2 volts) is the max input voltage!
    BEC: Monster 2 has an adjustable BEC with a default output value of 5.5V.
    Connectors: Mamba Monster 2 needs lots of power. Please use connectors such as large bullets (6.5mm), Deans®, or Traxxas® TRX® connectors to connect Monster 2 to your batteries.
    Batteries: Mamba Monster 2 needs lots of power. You must only use batteries that are capable of delivering bursts of more than 125 amps and which can sustain continuous outputs of 100 amps. Anything less will only lead to a frustrating ride with the Monster.
    Expect to upgrade your vehicle’s drive system. You can always wait until Monster 2 shreds the parts, but then you’ll be stuck at the track with no ride. That’s no fun.
    Monster 2 powered systems are capable of producing incredibly high power. That means the vehicles can go stupidly fast. Please never point a Monster 2 powered vehicle at anyone, always stay clear of the tires, and keep your hands and feet inside the ride at all times!

    CASTLE LINK
    Your Monster 2 is ready to run right out of the box. However, you may find that you’d like to change a few settings, such as the low voltage cutoff or perhaps you’d like to adjust the throttle or braking curves. You can do all of these things with the Castle Link USB Adapter (a coupon is included in your packaging) and your Windows PC (not included).
    Please visit www.castlecreations.com/downloads to download the latest version of the Castle Link software.


    DO THE MATH!
    Not all LiPos are created equal, and surge ratings should never be used to determine a pack’s suitability for a brushless application. Use the CONTINUOUS C rating only.
    We suggest that you choose a pack that can deliver more amperage than the drive system draws. More “headroom” between the C rating and the actual amp draw offers better reliability. We recommend that you have at least a 20% reserve margin for best results. Using insufficient battery packs WILL shorten the life of this controller.
    Here’s an example: 5,000 mAh pack = 5Ah 5 x 25C = 125 amps 125 x 80% = 100 amps max continuous rating necessary!
    Look at it another way.
    Mamba Monster setups frequently hit 100+ amps in peaks. We strongly suggest using 5,000 mAh or larger LiPo cells with a discharge rating of at least 30C (or high quality 25C batteries such as Traxxas® Power Cells®). Our experience suggests using only mild gear ratios with NiMH cells. Do not attempt to use NiMH cells in extreme setups.

    MAMBA MONSTER 2 ERROR CODES

    GREEN/YELLOW FLASHING ESC input voltage is below the operating limit (drained battery)

    RED/YELLOW/GREEN FLASHING Sudden and extreme rise in temperature (possibly over-geared)

    RED/YELLOW FLASHING ESC temperature above the operating limit (possibly over-geared)

    RED/GREEN FLASHING BEC temperature above the operating limit (possibly damaged servo)

    RED/YELLOW/GREEN FLASHING AND BEEPING ESC is not detecting a valid signal from the receiver

    ===

    So this is what is included with the MMM2 ESC. I need to do a little soldering & put on battery connectors. more to come...



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    ===

    ===

    35,588
    Last edited by 87 GN; 01-25-2013 at 05:51 PM.
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  11. #251
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    The more I work with this ESC the more I'm liking it. I had read about the fan & shroud was removable. Using a small flat screw driver, insert into the tabs on both side of the shroud, lightly push the tab out & lift the fan off. I think I also read that it is recommended to take the fan off when running in wet condition. Now to program with Castle Link the ESC & the External BEC. Then remover the red wire from the ESC.. like posted above.

    settings

    Firmware ~ V 1.39

    Basic

    Cutoff Voltage ~ Auto LiPo
    Auto LiPo Volts/Cell (LVC) ~ 3.5v per cell
    Reverse Type ~ With Reverse
    Motor Direction ~ Normal
    Motor Type ~ Brushless
    Power-On Warning Beep ~ Beep Enable
    Break Amount ~ Custom 35%
    Drag Brake ~ 0% Disabled

    Power

    Max Forward ~ 100%
    Max Reverse ~ 50%
    Punch Control ~ 0% Disabled
    No torque limit

    Advanced
    I leave at default

    Throttle & Brake Curves
    Set to your liking
    I like to soften the break curve just a little, & leave the throttle curve default

    Update: Send Setting to Device

    BEC set to 6 volts..

    PIC's...

    ===

    ===Fan removed

    ===It is now going to be super easy to clean the fins.

    ===Soldering is done & wired up in series, I used the white wire that was included.

    ===Castle 10 amp BEC is soldered on.

    ===the red wire removed / folded over & a little shrink wrap....You will need to put the red wire back in, if you ever need to reprogram with Castle Link again...
    Last edited by 87 GN; 01-25-2013 at 10:58 PM.
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  12. #252
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Something I kind of missed. I still run old school.

    TQ 2.4GHz Binding Instructions:

    1) Press and hold the transmitter's Set button as you switch the transmitter on. The transmitter's LED will flash red slowly. Release the set button.

    2) Press and hold the receiver's Link button as you switch on the speed control by pressing the EZ-Set button. Release the Link button.

    3) When the transmitter and receiver's LED's turn solid green, the system is bound and ready for use. Confirm that the steering and throttle operate properly before driving you model.


    Automatic Fail-Safe:

    The TQ 2.4GHz transmitter and receiver are equipped with an automatic fail-safe system that does not required user programming. In the event of signal loss or interference, the throttle will return to neutral and the steering will hold it's last commanded position. If Fail-Safe activates while you are operating your model, determine the reason for the signal loss & resolve the problem before operating your model again.

    channel
    1a) steering
    1b) open steering
    2) ESC
    3) ESC Fan
    4) External 10 amp BEC
    5) open


    36,551
    Last edited by 87 GN; 01-30-2013 at 09:18 PM.
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  13. #253
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    Hey 87, I don't know if you know this but you can use the Summit Shafts backwards and run them with the blue boots close to the diffs. I did this in my Summit and it helps to save the blue boots, or at least helps them to last longer. Just thought I would share this little tidbit.
    Slash MT, 1/10 Summit.

  14. #254
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    here is where I picked up the MM2
    http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...CSE010-0108-00

    Little more info about the Mamba Monster 2:

    The fan does now runs nonstop, obviously it is now plugged directly into the Rx. (I used channel #3)
    I don't see any problem with the fan running all the time, it might help keep debris out, & the ESC a little cooler. I will still use a small piece of ladies stockings, over the fan to help keep debris out.

    Another thing that came up, the ESC is a bit shorter. The ESC hold down does not hold the ESC tight to the chassis. (there is a lot of play) I used three extra layers of double sided servo tape, taped to the bottom of the ESC, to take up the extra space.

    L: 1.86" (47mm)
    W: 2.19 (56mm)
    H: 1.33" (34mm)

    Taped off & painted half of the holders on/off switch with orange paint (is the off position).

    ===a little bit of double sided servo tape to secure the 10 amp BEC
    Last edited by 87 GN; 01-30-2013 at 10:27 PM.
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  15. #255
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by summitbasher240 View Post
    Hey 87, I don't know if you know this but you can use the Summit Shafts backwards and run them with the blue boots close to the diffs. I did this in my Summit and it helps to save the blue boots, or at least helps them to last longer. Just thought I would share this little tidbit.
    I have read that, but haven't tried it. I have a sneaking feeling this truck is going to be a bit of a shelf Queen..
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  16. #256
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    Pretty nice looking shelf queen!?!?!? How's your GN doing? Have you been able to paint it yet?
    Slash MT, 1/10 Summit.

  17. #257
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    man i love the orange color... if only you could rit dye the black parts into white, then it would be my dream! is it possible?

    and somehow i managed to fit the cc bec inside the receiver box. i know they say it could interfere, but i haven't witnessed anything in 2 months. just an idea for your clean setup.
    <3 Traxxas~Align~Ducati~Lib-tech~JacksonGtrs <3

  18. #258
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by summitbasher240 View Post
    Pretty nice looking shelf queen!?!?!? How's your GN doing? Have you been able to paint it yet?
    Thanks.......Nope still sitting there.....

    Quote Originally Posted by fuzion View Post
    man i love the orange color... if only you could rit dye the black parts into white, then it would be my dream! is it possible?

    Nope can only go darker, when dying

    and somehow i managed to fit the cc bec inside the receiver box. i know they say it could interfere, but i haven't witnessed anything in 2 months. just an idea for your clean setup.
    Rx box is pretty full of all the extra wires from the fan,ESC, etc..
    Might have to check that out tho.....
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  19. #259
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    This Picture very much remindes me of My Tamiya Avante (from 88).

    loving the look and feel of your work and colouring on this one.
    Last edited by Yip-man; 02-01-2013 at 01:24 AM. Reason: can'r type

  20. #260
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    Love the KTM body!

  21. #261
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Thanks...
    So short update, couple days ago, went for a short street run. Everything is working well, the steering in crazy fast & strong. I had to us a little steering Expo to slow it down.


    Only thing I have is the spur gear rubbing on the gear cover. So I took apart the slipper & did a double check of the slipper & gears. Everything is correct, spur is facing out, not sure what is going on. Did a little dremel work inside the cover where the spur is rubbing. Just have to run it for awhile till I figure it out. Might just be a matter of breaking in the slipper pads..
    it can't be rubbing by much, maybe a mm
    37,909
    Last edited by 87 GN; 02-09-2013 at 11:20 PM.
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  22. #262
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    Wow, 87GN, your E-Revo looks really sharp with the work you've done to colorize the chassis and suspension components. Nice work! It makes me want to do something with my E-Maxx.

  23. #263
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    did you do all the powder coating your self if so what system did you use
    6S OR NOTHING............................ maybe 5s

  24. #264
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Yes I did all the powder coating myself, I used Hotcoat..

    Keep watching more to come...

    http://www.eastwood.com/original-hot...ing-gun-1.html
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  25. #265
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    Thanks for letting your powder coating secret out of the bag! Just ordered a kit up with a couple of colors. Ive been wanting to go red with a lot of things but you can never find what you want in red, always blue which I am tired of seeing! My bet is the powder coat will probably hold up better than the anodized parts too.

  26. #266
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    cool ya ive been eyeing that kit for a while your parts might just make me buy it
    6S OR NOTHING............................ maybe 5s

  27. #267
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Repairing a Summit CVD drive shaft

    Driver error.....I broke a drive shaft on the Summit. This repair can be done on either end of the drive shaft. I have been wanting to post this but, I just haven't broke'n a drive shaft till now...

    Of coarse take the drive shaft off the truck. Started with dremeling (sanding drum) the inside of shaft to smooth up where the plastic was damaged from the breakage. Then drilled a pilot hole 5/64" (.078) opposite of the original hole. Trying to match the centering & positioning of the original hole. Also make sure you drill the pilot hole straight thru, do not let the drill bit drift when drilling thru for the second hole. Last is drilling the actual size needed 1/8" (.125).

    the damage

    ===hole is drilled

    ===test fit of the pin

    ===u joint disassembled, take out the set screw & the pin slides out, then everything comes apart.

    ===few pic of the drive shaft reassembled & the set screw.

    ===set screw was not all the way in, left out for pic...

    38,808
    Last edited by 87 GN; 02-17-2013 at 12:35 PM.
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  28. #268
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    never thought of that thanks for sharing get twice the money out of your summits.
    6S OR NOTHING............................ maybe 5s

  29. #269
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    welcome to project...


    Bad To The Bone


    This truck/car is going to be a dual purpose E Slayer. {street & off road}...all in a quick change of tires & a body... I still have some parts to order, so this build will take a little time.

    Going for water resistant, so I have a set of stock 2075 servos. You can make the HV servos water resistant with a little silicon & grease. For the size of tires that I'm going to use, the 2075 will be plenty...


    ===believe it of not there is a truck in those bags..


    One thing I didn't show in URTOAST is trimming the batt compartment & door, for larger battery wires. I did a little cutting & then some dremeling with a sanding roll to smooth things up..


    ===
    Last edited by 87 GN; 02-17-2013 at 05:20 PM.
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  30. #270
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Nothing much to update, going with another two speed trans. For no other reason than I have a spare, it's not going to hurt anything & might come be useful.

    An old pic, but I still opened up the trans & lith greased the bearings & the gears.


    Going with the stock diff no upgrades. Opened up the diffs, but first I wanted to kind of break them in. So I used my cordless drill & ran the diffs for about 5 min, forward & reverse. Did seem to make the diffs run a little smoother. Changed the diff fluid to 120k in the carrier, shimmed, & a little lith grease on the gears. Just a pic of the diff opened up.

    === also just a reminder of making sure the up is up when installing the diff in the bulk head. If you get one upside down, the wheels will run the opposite direction. Then you will have to pull a diff out & flip one over.

    39,534
    Last edited by 87 GN; 02-23-2013 at 12:45 AM.
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  31. #271
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Well I have not been doing much building, more playing. First good snow in a few yrs. This pic is after work & me standing in the garage. Some where between 12" to 14" of snow.

    ===SumRevo with a Brushed Dewalt, and an LVA..

    ===Snow chains made from jack chain.

    ===Dusty Motor cover

    ===Having the rear diff locked, kept me from getting stuck more than a few times.

    ===Not doing any jumps, don't want to pack more snow on top of the truck, so I don't use the body.

    ===

    ===

    ===

    40,322
    Last edited by 87 GN; 03-02-2013 at 03:46 PM.
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  32. #272
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    back on track

    this is a link to pulling out the diffs without taking off & splitting the bulk heads.

    http://traxxas.com/support/Different...ion-and-Summit

    The trans is in & the diffs are ready for the bulk heads. Did a little glass bead blasting, to get ready for some powder coating.

    ===
    Last edited by 87 GN; 03-02-2013 at 04:27 PM. Reason: s,y
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  33. #273
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    Wow what a treasure chest of information this thread is! I've been looking for some orange electrical tape to color code my tools at work! Thanks for the link on that too!
    Jesus, Lights, RC, Minecraft, LoL

  34. #274
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Not much info just some update pic. Did all the powder coating, can't see real well in the pic but I went with a nice little pink.
    Front bulk & diff, & the 6mm washer under the rocker post


    Rear bulk & diff, & the 6mm washer under the rocker post


    There is a 3x10 BCS screw that holds the rear bulk halves together.


    and the motor plate with the lower mount drilled to 13/64 = .203 for the motor mount mod

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  35. #275
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    Shock Caps

    flashback
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post4887642
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post4951311

    I drilled two small breather holes in the top of each cap {Drill size is .037}.. The caps look like they bottom out before they get tight, to the bladder in the cap. Lathed .030 in. off the face of the caps. Then found some 015 O'rings that fit perfectly in the bottom of the cap, next goes in the bladders. In my haste to get started powder coating I should have heat taped the threads in the caps. I had to spend about an hour cleaning out the threads.... I have not "ran" tested for leaks, but no leaks yet..


    notice the broken plastic shock caps, this was because I had the LT push rods & the P2 rockers on...bad set~up.. after filling shock caps make sure to get all the "air bubbles out" cycle the shock a few times..then put the cap on....

    ===

    ===right cap has the O'ring in place

    ===the bladder installed

    ===as you can see 60 wt shock fluid, I want a soft smooth ride. You can't tell, but the shocks on the right are silver, and on the left are blue. Just a note the silver springs are just a little longer than the blue springs.

    ===bad pic angle......Slayer tie & push rods are pink, silver are stock rods. Push rods in front, & tie rods in back..

    41,558
    sorry about that.. previewed post & pic linked?? idk...
    Last edited by 87 GN; 03-12-2013 at 07:21 PM.
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  36. #276
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    iDIG the pink! Makes me wanna get a powder coating kit

  37. #277
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    What's the diameter of those o-rings?

    Also, what's the point of those holes if the bladder covers them anyway? I've installed my shock caps without holes at all, but with a foam circle and teflon tape, and have noticed no leakage so far. I haven't actually driven the car yet though, so it remains to been just how effective it all is on the road.
    Last edited by ignis; 03-13-2013 at 02:27 AM.

  38. #278
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    dia .640 .... they should just be a number 015 O"Ring
    the reason for the hole in the cap is to let air out of the cap as the bladder is compressed, from the shock cycling..
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  39. #279
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    A Arms:

    Obviously you can see the Slayer A Arms are shorter than the stock Revo Arms.
    Just how much shorter?? With no wheels....from the outer edge to each knuckle, the widths are........
    Revo 14.000 in
    Slayer 10.500 in

    Front A Arms

    Rear A Arms

    cycled the shocks with the A Arms a few times & still no leaks

    ===assembled..with P2 rockers

    ===still need the skid plates, & a little of my powder coating popped off when I screwed on the rod end..ooops

    Views: 42,470
    Last edited by 87 GN; 03-16-2013 at 06:54 PM.
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  40. #280
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Norway
    Posts
    290
    Quote Originally Posted by 87 GN View Post
    dia .640 .... they should just be a number 015 O"Ring
    I can't find anything matching those dimensions on amain...

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