SumRevo

[Havik65]

Here is a matching controller for your URTOAST project http://site.hobbypartz.com/pimages/7...adio-LCD-1.jpg

[87 GN]

I have thought about painting my radio with a bit of orange...(maybe)

Motor Mount Mod:

You might remember this mod, time for an update. Might have been over thinking it, the first time around.lol
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post4910702

tools needed..... 3/8"wrench ...... 5/32" allen wrench ...... 13/64 = .203 drilled bit ..... dremel, utility knife or hand file.

Using a std bolt is kind of hard to get the wrench on, next to the trans. The obvious choice is to use an allen head. So I used a #10-24 x 1.250 shcs bolt, #10 washer and a 10-24 nut. In metric the bolt would be "about" .476cm x 3.1750cm.
Didn't buy a lock nut, going to use a drop of blue Loctite.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...ex?sku=1123149

First thing is to cut back the black plastic motor hinge. Needs to be flush or with the motor mount.
uncut

cut back using....dremel, utility knife or hand file.



Next is to drill (13/64") the motor plate & the motor hinge for the 10-24 bolt.

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I used a 10-24 shcs bolt, because the #10 washer, is big enough to cover the motor bracket. Once drilled & the motor plate mounted on the trans you might have to remove the vent cover to start the bolt into the motor plate.

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34,115

[87 GN]

Good time to post the slipper break in. I have a new slipper I'm working on, not going to post it up just yet. So this will have to do for now...


http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post4920527

Slipper Clutch Break-In
The E-Revo Brushless Edition’s slipper clutch requires a break-in procedure
to ensure consistent operation with the extremely high power output of
the included Castle Creations Mamba Monster brushless motor system. The
slipper clutch has been adjusted to the correct initial setting for break-in.
Follow these steps to ensure maximum performance and life from your
slipper clutch:
1. Make your first runs with the model using the stock gearing and 6- or
7-cell NiMH packs, or 2S LiPo packs.
2. Drive normally. The slipper clutch should slip momentarily when
accelerating aggressively on high-traction surfaces (you will hear a
whirring sound when the slipper clutch allows the spur gear to slip).
3. If excessive slippage is noticed (slipping that lasts for more than 3
seconds under hard acceleration), or the slipper clutch slips anytime
the throttle is applied at any lever, stop driving immediately. Let the
slipper clutch cool for 10-15 minutes. When the clutch is cool, test-drive
the vehicle again. If you still experience excessive slippage, allow the
slipper to cool once more, then tighten the slipper nut ¼ turn (turn the
nut clockwise) and repeat the break-in process. Do not adjust the slipper
clutch before it has cooled.
4. Continue to run the vehicle and monitor slipper clutch performance as
noted above, and readjust if necessary. When the run is complete, the
slipper should be fully broken in.
After break-in, the slipper clutch is ready for any type of driving, with any
batteries up to 6S Lipo. Set the slipper clutch so it only slips for a moment
(if at all) under hard acceleration in high-traction conditions. If excessive
slippage is noticed, stop driving immediately. Continuing to drive with a
loose slipper will cause damage to the slipper unit. You must let the slipper
cool down to ambient temperature before tightening the slipper nut and
resuming driving.

http://traxxas.com/sites/default/fil...KC1491-R00.pdf

[87 GN]

Drive shafts:


I have two sets of Summit CVD drive shafts to play with, so I am going to use the four longs. I have plans for the four short later. A std set of Summit CVD are two long & two short. This is because of the front & rear locking diff in the differential. The CVD's fit just like the stock Revo CV drive shafts. The CVD's are a little stronger then the stock CV. Also CVD's should be used with LT rockers, because of the greater angel the drive shaft is being put in. If you can't buy just the longs, & don't want to buy two sets. You can run the longs in the front & the shorts in the rear (jmho). All it will do is stretch the rubber boot, & if the boots tears it is not a real big deal.


Borrowing this mod from clp71220, thinking it is a pretty good idea to strengthen the shafts. Being just a street machine I'm not worried about the tape getting torn up, even if it does just a quick retape. First wiped off any grease or oil, pulled it pretty tight & went four wraps around each end. I had to order orange of coarse.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190654345725...84.m1439.l2649

First drive shaft is the short & the four taped are the longs....

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Shorter Axle Eye to Eye Length (in/mm): 4.75/121

Longer Axle Eye to Eye Length (in/mm): 4.5/114

Shorter Axle Overall Length (in/mm): 6.9/175

Longer Axle Overall Length (in/mm):7.2/183

[clp71220]

I likes what I see.

[87 GN]

Drive shaft assembly:

As I said the CVD fit just like the stock CV drive shafts..
These are the 5145 Screw Pin, 4x15mm, notice they have blue thread locker all ready on the pins.


drive shaft & screw pin install on the diff


stub shaft in the knuckle & bearing


I use the HPI 17mm hubs, so this is the pin & a spacer form a Summit rocker post..MW 6x10x2


The HPI hubs machined to fit the Traxxas wheel hub. I leave these in the wheels when I change to a different set of wheel they are that tight to try & get out.


progress pic

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little more info on the machined hubs..
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5065568

[Cameron]

Great, another awesome use for a washer that Traxxas doesn't sell... (by itself)

[87 GN]

Traxxas doesn't sell
don't you know... & they fit perfectly....

Paint:

Pro-Line Slipstream Clear Body PRO3300-60
I start by cutting out the body with body scissors, & Dynamite Knurl Handled Reamer for the body mount holes.

Next clean the underside with soap, water, & a soft scratcher. The scuffs from the scratcher lets the paint get a little better adhesion. Next is to get your design, & start taping. I use pin striping tape & painters masking tape. Never have used the Liquid Masking Film. It would have made some of the taping much easier. I spent a good three hrs. getting everything just right. Using regular masking tape will let the paint bleed under the tape, so you will not get sharp lines between each color.

Speaking of color it is best to paint from dark to light. Painting a dark color over a light color will dull the lighter color. To make lighter colors pop better, use white as a backer.

Paint I used minus the white.


Taping

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Lite coats are a must, to keep from getting any runs. I don't like to wait for the paint to dry between coats.
SO I cheat & use a hair dryer to help speed up dry time between each pass. (about 8~10 coats or as needed)..

This pic looks like it is covered but it is not, I think it was about five coats.


I like to use a shop light to see if I'm getting good coverage. This pic was taken at the same time as the last pic.^


Now after about 4~5 more lite coats, & the same shop light, much better......


Black is done so I pilled off the tape for the next color.

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[87 GN]

Here is the orange......... of coarse..

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Backed in white..


painted & the windows tinted. The window tint paint is very thin so........
Very lite coats or you will get runs. The more coats.. the darker the windows will be..

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[50togo]

Nice! Looking pretty sweet!

[Cameron]

Traxxas doesn't sell
don't you know... & they fit perfectly....

Tell me about it, i ended up buying a sway bar kit i didn't need to get 2 of those darn washers...

New body looks amazing too.
I love this whole orange and black thing you got going on

[keithy]

Looks unreal

[87 GN]

Thank You.. pic's really don't do it justice.......when the lighting is just right it glows orange.......
Still building URTOAST, few things to finish up & a couple of parts to order.

Castle 10 Amp BEC:

Jump back to the Savox SA-1230SG.......I bought the same servo for my Basher Revo. I was thinking this servo wouldn't need a external 10 amp BEC... I did just a "short" run without & not real sure but I think I was getting a little brown out. So for $20.00 I order up a couple of them. I do have a glitch buster, prob should have tried it.

Glitch Buster....
4700UF 10V NCC RADIAL ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITORS
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4700UF-10V-N...item1e6682f78f


The Castle 10 Amp BEC is preset at 5.1v. Using Castle Link I changed the voltage to 6v.
Not much to installing the 10 Amp BEC, just a little wiring, soldering, & removing the red wire from the ESC.......then....Simple plug the BEC into any of the unused ports.. I use a little double sided servo tape & mount the BEC to the chassis.....
went for a full run today, everything is working good....


Refer to this to setup the Mamba Monster ( MMM ) esc for maximum performance:
CASTLE LINK GUIDE



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how to remove the red wire without just cutting it.

34,899

[87 GN]

While on the topic of servo's, (stock 2075) I strip one of the gears on SumRevo. Not sure what happened, didn't hit anything, just thinking plastic gears. So I ordered a couple of repair kits. p/n 2072. Not much to installing new gears, pretty straight forward.


=== The damage.......see a few teeth missing...

===installed, for pic only..O'ring & the bearing are up, first two parts to come off, before getting the gears off.

===the orange spot is on the (Output gear) this gear does have a correct direction as pic'd
it can be put on 180 deg off...

===the waterproof gasket does have a correct direction..better pic of the Output gear..


have linked this before but here it is again....align dual servo's......

[argyris_kav]

87 GN what u bec used ? for give hgh voltage to servo ? or like a boost on throttlle ?

[87 GN]

10 amp Castle Creation BEC...... is for HV (High Voltage) servo.....

[87 GN]

Tires & Balancer:


little flashback.....

http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post4908845

http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post4909771

http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5177829


These are the rims & tires I going to use.

Blast Spoke rims / Phaltline tires / three wraps of monkey tape..
290 grams / width 2.750 / OD 5.530


===Balanced

35,325

[87 GN]

few pic.............


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[clp71220]

Looking sweet !!! I think your dog needs a bath though. Saw him rolling in the mystery smell over on post#286 inside the wheel.

[87 GN]

Thanks..Frankie aka (Frances) has had a hard life......

MAMBA MONSTER 2:

QUICK START GUIDE IMPORTANT: You must calibrate your radio to the ESC! 1. Install the ESC • Solder a high quality battery connector to the ESC. Mount the ESC and motor into the vehicle • Plug in the 3 motor wires to the ESC • Plug in the ESC Rx lead to CH2 on your receiver • Make sure the ESC’s switch is off 2. Calibrate the radio transmitter • Plug in a battery • Holding full throttle on your transmitter, turn the switch ON • After a few seconds you’ll hear multiple tones and the red LED will come on • Now hold full brake and after a few seconds you’ll hear multiple tones and the yellow LED will come on • Now relax to neutral and after a few seconds you’ll hear multiple tones and ALL the LEDs will light up. • A few seconds later the ESC will arm with a double tone and you’re ready to go!

CARE AND FEEDING OF YOUR MAMBA MONSTER 2: Limits:
Mamba Monster 2 is incredibly powerful, but know his limits. 6S (25.2 volts) is the max input voltage!
BEC: Monster 2 has an adjustable BEC with a default output value of 5.5V.
Connectors: Mamba Monster 2 needs lots of power. Please use connectors such as large bullets (6.5mm), Deans®, or Traxxas® TRX® connectors to connect Monster 2 to your batteries.
Batteries: Mamba Monster 2 needs lots of power. You must only use batteries that are capable of delivering bursts of more than 125 amps and which can sustain continuous outputs of 100 amps. Anything less will only lead to a frustrating ride with the Monster.
Expect to upgrade your vehicle’s drive system. You can always wait until Monster 2 shreds the parts, but then you’ll be stuck at the track with no ride. That’s no fun.
Monster 2 powered systems are capable of producing incredibly high power. That means the vehicles can go stupidly fast. Please never point a Monster 2 powered vehicle at anyone, always stay clear of the tires, and keep your hands and feet inside the ride at all times!

CASTLE LINK
Your Monster 2 is ready to run right out of the box. However, you may find that you’d like to change a few settings, such as the low voltage cutoff or perhaps you’d like to adjust the throttle or braking curves. You can do all of these things with the Castle Link USB Adapter (a coupon is included in your packaging) and your Windows PC (not included).
Please visit www.castlecreations.com/downloads to download the latest version of the Castle Link software.


DO THE MATH!
Not all LiPos are created equal, and surge ratings should never be used to determine a pack’s suitability for a brushless application. Use the CONTINUOUS C rating only.
We suggest that you choose a pack that can deliver more amperage than the drive system draws. More “headroom” between the C rating and the actual amp draw offers better reliability. We recommend that you have at least a 20% reserve margin for best results. Using insufficient battery packs WILL shorten the life of this controller.
Here’s an example: 5,000 mAh pack = 5Ah 5 x 25C = 125 amps 125 x 80% = 100 amps max continuous rating necessary!
Look at it another way.
Mamba Monster setups frequently hit 100+ amps in peaks. We strongly suggest using 5,000 mAh or larger LiPo cells with a discharge rating of at least 30C (or high quality 25C batteries such as Traxxas® Power Cells®). Our experience suggests using only mild gear ratios with NiMH cells. Do not attempt to use NiMH cells in extreme setups.

MAMBA MONSTER 2 ERROR CODES

GREEN/YELLOW FLASHING ESC input voltage is below the operating limit (drained battery)

RED/YELLOW/GREEN FLASHING Sudden and extreme rise in temperature (possibly over-geared)

RED/YELLOW FLASHING ESC temperature above the operating limit (possibly over-geared)

RED/GREEN FLASHING BEC temperature above the operating limit (possibly damaged servo)

RED/YELLOW/GREEN FLASHING AND BEEPING ESC is not detecting a valid signal from the receiver

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So this is what is included with the MMM2 ESC. I need to do a little soldering & put on battery connectors. more to come...



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35,588

[87 GN]

The more I work with this ESC the more I'm liking it. I had read about the fan & shroud was removable. Using a small flat screw driver, insert into the tabs on both side of the shroud, lightly push the tab out & lift the fan off. I think I also read that it is recommended to take the fan off when running in wet condition. Now to program with Castle Link the ESC & the External BEC. Then remover the red wire from the ESC.. like posted above.

settings

Firmware ~ V 1.39

Basic

Cutoff Voltage ~ Auto LiPo
Auto LiPo Volts/Cell (LVC) ~ 3.5v per cell
Reverse Type ~ With Reverse
Motor Direction ~ Normal
Motor Type ~ Brushless
Power-On Warning Beep ~ Beep Enable
Break Amount ~ Custom 35%
Drag Brake ~ 0% Disabled

Power

Max Forward ~ 100%
Max Reverse ~ 50%
Punch Control ~ 0% Disabled
No torque limit

Advanced
I leave at default

Throttle & Brake Curves
Set to your liking
I like to soften the break curve just a little, & leave the throttle curve default

Update: Send Setting to Device

BEC set to 6 volts..

PIC's...

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===Fan removed

===It is now going to be super easy to clean the fins.

===Soldering is done & wired up in series, I used the white wire that was included.

===Castle 10 amp BEC is soldered on.

===the red wire removed / folded over & a little shrink wrap....You will need to put the red wire back in, if you ever need to reprogram with Castle Link again...

[Ginjirou17]

HOOOLD IT RIGHT THERE MISTER!

Is that the new mamba monster max 2? The one that is the upgraded waterproof version of the one in my stock E revo?

[87 GN]

Mamba monster 2:

[87 GN]

Something I kind of missed. I still run old school.

TQ 2.4GHz Binding Instructions:

1) Press and hold the transmitter's Set button as you switch the transmitter on. The transmitter's LED will flash red slowly. Release the set button.

2) Press and hold the receiver's Link button as you switch on the speed control by pressing the EZ-Set button. Release the Link button.

3) When the transmitter and receiver's LED's turn solid green, the system is bound and ready for use. Confirm that the steering and throttle operate properly before driving you model.


Automatic Fail-Safe:

The TQ 2.4GHz transmitter and receiver are equipped with an automatic fail-safe system that does not required user programming. In the event of signal loss or interference, the throttle will return to neutral and the steering will hold it's last commanded position. If Fail-Safe activates while you are operating your model, determine the reason for the signal loss & resolve the problem before operating your model again.

channel
1a) steering
1b) open steering
2) ESC
3) ESC Fan
4) External 10 amp BEC
5) open


36,551

[summitbasher240]

Hey 87, I don't know if you know this but you can use the Summit Shafts backwards and run them with the blue boots close to the diffs. I did this in my Summit and it helps to save the blue boots, or at least helps them to last longer. Just thought I would share this little tidbit.

[87 GN]

here is where I picked up the MM2
http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...CSE010-0108-00

Little more info about the Mamba Monster 2:

The fan does now runs nonstop, obviously it is now plugged directly into the Rx. (I used channel #3)
I don't see any problem with the fan running all the time, it might help keep debris out, & the ESC a little cooler. I will still use a small piece of ladies stockings, over the fan to help keep debris out.

Another thing that came up, the ESC is a bit shorter. The ESC hold down does not hold the ESC tight to the chassis. (there is a lot of play) I used three extra layers of double sided servo tape, taped to the bottom of the ESC, to take up the extra space.

L: 1.86" (47mm)
W: 2.19 (56mm)
H: 1.33" (34mm)

Taped off & painted half of the holders on/off switch with orange paint (is the off position).

===a little bit of double sided servo tape to secure the 10 amp BEC

[87 GN]

Hey 87, I don't know if you know this but you can use the Summit Shafts backwards and run them with the blue boots close to the diffs. I did this in my Summit and it helps to save the blue boots, or at least helps them to last longer. Just thought I would share this little tidbit.

I have read that, but haven't tried it. I have a sneaking feeling this truck is going to be a bit of a shelf Queen..

[summitbasher240]

Pretty nice looking shelf queen!?!?!? How's your GN doing? Have you been able to paint it yet?

[fuzion]

man i love the orange color... if only you could rit dye the black parts into white, then it would be my dream! is it possible?

and somehow i managed to fit the cc bec inside the receiver box. i know they say it could interfere, but i haven't witnessed anything in 2 months. just an idea for your clean setup.

[87 GN]

Pretty nice looking shelf queen!?!?!? How's your GN doing? Have you been able to paint it yet?

Thanks.......Nope still sitting there.....

man i love the orange color... if only you could rit dye the black parts into white, then it would be my dream! is it possible?

Nope can only go darker, when dying

and somehow i managed to fit the cc bec inside the receiver box. i know they say it could interfere, but i haven't witnessed anything in 2 months. just an idea for your clean setup.

Rx box is pretty full of all the extra wires from the fan,ESC, etc..
Might have to check that out tho.....

[Yip-man]

This Picture very much remindes me of My Tamiya Avante (from 88).

loving the look and feel of your work and colouring on this one.

[gb77]

Love the KTM body!

[87 GN]

Thanks...
So short update, couple days ago, went for a short street run. Everything is working well, the steering in crazy fast & strong. I had to us a little steering Expo to slow it down.


Only thing I have is the spur gear rubbing on the gear cover. So I took apart the slipper & did a double check of the slipper & gears. Everything is correct, spur is facing out, not sure what is going on. Did a little dremel work inside the cover where the spur is rubbing. Just have to run it for awhile till I figure it out. Might just be a matter of breaking in the slipper pads..
it can't be rubbing by much, maybe a mm
37,909

[turbo_cat1]

Wow, 87GN, your E-Revo looks really sharp with the work you've done to colorize the chassis and suspension components. Nice work! It makes me want to do something with my E-Maxx.

[mydudrevo]

did you do all the powder coating your self if so what system did you use

[87 GN]

Yes I did all the powder coating myself, I used Hotcoat..

Keep watching more to come...

http://www.eastwood.com/original-hot...ing-gun-1.html
38,666

[JustinThyme]

Thanks for letting your powder coating secret out of the bag! Just ordered a kit up with a couple of colors. Ive been wanting to go red with a lot of things but you can never find what you want in red, always blue which I am tired of seeing! My bet is the powder coat will probably hold up better than the anodized parts too.

[mydudrevo]

cool ya ive been eyeing that kit for a while your parts might just make me buy it

[87 GN]

Repairing a Summit CVD drive shaft

Driver error.....I broke a drive shaft on the Summit. This repair can be done on either end of the drive shaft. I have been wanting to post this but, I just haven't broke'n a drive shaft till now...

Of coarse take the drive shaft off the truck. Started with dremeling (sanding drum) the inside of shaft to smooth up where the plastic was damaged from the breakage. Then drilled a pilot hole 5/64" (.078) opposite of the original hole. Trying to match the centering & positioning of the original hole. Also make sure you drill the pilot hole straight thru, do not let the drill bit drift when drilling thru for the second hole. Last is drilling the actual size needed 1/8" (.125).

the damage

===hole is drilled

===test fit of the pin

===u joint disassembled, take out the set screw & the pin slides out, then everything comes apart.

===few pic of the drive shaft reassembled & the set screw.

===set screw was not all the way in, left out for pic...

38,808

[mydudrevo]

never thought of that thanks for sharing get twice the money out of your summits.