SumRevo

[humayrayakongkinaon]

i'm loving the color....is this going onto your KTM ERBE body theme?

[Naaier]

Interesting project you working on 'URTOAST'...I like how you powder coated your parts orange.

[87 GN]

Yes & Thanks
I have another Slipstream body that needs painted. But I was wanting to find a full size body..
not a Slayer...

[humayrayakongkinaon]

Yes & Thanks
I have another Slipstream body that needs painted. But I was wanting to find a full size body..
not a Slayer...

maybe contact proline company and request to make one for a full size body that fit the ERBE lol.

[Ghostbuster]

Looking good!

[revoman78]

that orange is so cool looking with the black

[eschmitt4]

I like your pets and nice job with the theme

[87 GN]

Steering Parts:

Steering arm:
still in the package before powder coating..


Servo Horn:
25 Tooth Spline... more pic's later......... this is a little horn



Servo:
Savox SA-1230 bit of over kill but that is what this truck is all about....
about $75.00 & free ship .... like it so much I bought two, one for my other Revo...

===


Dimensions(mm): 40.3x20.2x45.0
Weight(g): 79.0
Speed(@4.8V sec/60): .20
Torque(@4.8V oz-in): 417.0
Speed(@6.0V sec/60): .16
Torque(@6.0V oz-in): 500
Gear: Unique Steel
Bearing: 2BB
Case: Full Aluminum (Top and Bottom Caps are Plastic)
25 Tooth Spline

.........
30,078

[50togo]

You will need a bec for that!

[MITCH316]

Great Servo you got there...Ive been running one in my Summit for the past few months with no issues. Nothing wrong with a bit of overkill mate .

[87 GN]

No need for a BEC at a Max of 6v, would not really pay to put one on. That is why I went with this servo & the $$$...
The MMM BEC is putting out at least 5 ~ 5.5v, so the servo sould be putting out 450 ish oz-in of torque..
Now if it had a Max of 7.4v then I would put on a CC BEC. Like I did on my Hitec...
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post4916876

[acidburn123]

Any reason why you picked the servo horn , would the stock one not fit ?

[87 GN]

Stock will fit, but it is "plastic".......
This horn will lock it's self on.... there is a screw to clap & a screw to hold it onto the servo.
that is the more pic later....

[humayrayakongkinaon]

man that servo alone strong enough to steer two revo hahhaha.

[acidburn123]

Stock will fit, but it is "plastic".......
This horn will lock it's self on.... there is a screw to clap & a screw to hold it onto the servo.
that is the more pic later....

Makes sense
Well let us know how your conversion goes, I am fed up with the dual servos on mine and looking for doing a single servo mod ... seen many peeps using the hi-tech ones , but going with the 1230 or perhaps 1231 with no BEC is a much more low cost solution.

[JustinThyme]

No need for a BEC at a Max of 6v, would not really pay to put one on. That is why I went with this servo & the $$$...
The MMM BEC is putting out at least 5 ~ 5.5v, so the servo sould be putting out 450 ish oz-in of torque..
Now if it had a Max of 7.4v then I would put on a CC BEC. Like I did on my Hitec...
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post4916876

Problem isnt the reduced voltage, its the current draw of the Savox servos. They are power hungry!
I just got a steal on a pair of like new JR Z9100T's. $100 shipped for the pair, 370oz at 6V. Now the delimma...Do I run one or both LOL. One will be plenty.

+1 on ditching the plasctic servo horn. They tend to bend even if ever so slightly throwing the steering off. I also like the style posted above where two screws clamp around the splines instead of one screw into the shaft. I changed all mine over to this style.

[87 GN]

Thanks to ksb51rl....

Savox uses a Futaba (same as Traxxas) 25-Tooth spline


23T
* Airtronics: 23T
* JR: 23T
* KO: 23T
* MRC: 23T
* Multiplex: 23T
* Sanwa: 23T
* Spektrum: 23T

24T
* Hitec: 24T

25T
* Ace/Thunder: 25T
* Cirrus: 25T
* Duratrax: 25T
* Futaba: 25T
* Hobbico: 25T (Some servos like the CS-170 uses 24 splines)
* HPI: 25T
* Kyosho: 25T
* Power HD: 25T
* Savox: 25T
* Tamiya: 25T
* Team Associated: 25T
* Tower: 25T
* Traxxas: 25T

[87 GN]

Knuckles:

Stock knuckles do not really need upgraded. MHO The bearing do quit well considering the abuse they are exposed to... I do not do any maintenance to the bearings..If a bearing goes bad you can replace it for about $1... I tried packing them with lith grease once & the bearings might have made it six runs. All it did was attract more dirt into the bearings, wearing them out & locking it up... There is a small shoulder to position the bearing..... I have had the rear outer bearings get pushed inside the knuckle due to "bad" landings.....


Even on a new set of knuckles, I use teflon tape on the pivit ball caps. This helps keep the caps from backing out...

First I cut the tape in half (see pic). Then a few wraps on the cap (2~3), there is a right & wrong way to wrap the cap. When you screw in the cap, you do NOT want the tape to unwrap. If it does you need to wrap the tape in the opposite direction.
As for assembly I run the pivit balls into the A Arms & tight'n the caps just enought to get the play out & not cause any binding to the suspention travel. Need to take a little time to get a good feel of the tightness of the caps.

pic knuckle, tape, pivit ball, pivit ball cap, & tool used for tight'n or loosen the cap.

30,286

[87 GN]

Shocks:

Because this is a street machine, no big air jumps.
I'm going with the stock springs, but changed the shock oil to 60wt.
orange = 3.2......18.3 stock front
gold = 3.8......21.7 stock rear
Hoping for a smooth or softer suspention..

Springs & Shock Oil

Revo page #21
http://traxxas.com/sites/default/fil...l_091216_0.pdf

Summit page #21
http://traxxas.com/sites/default/fil...607-manual.pdf


spring rates

.........N/mm.....lb/in
yellow = 2.6......14.8

white = 2.9......16.6

orange = 3.2......18.3 stock front

green = 3.5......20.0

gold = 3.8......21.7 stock rear

tan = 4.1......23.4

black = 4.4......25.1

silver = 4.9......28.0 supplied front

pink = 5.4......30.8

blue = 5.9......33.7 supplied rear

purple = 6.4......36.5

Revo....
From the factory, the shocks are filled with SAE-40W silicone oil. Only use
100% silicone oil in the shock. Higher the viscosities, the heavier (thicker) shock oil.

My basher Revo current setup....
P2 Rockers 80 wt Blue Rear Silver Front, inner hole.
I set the shock preload by pushing the chassis to the ground.
If the springs fully compress, back off the preload, if not fully compress increase the preload...

When changing or filling the shocks besure to get all the air "bubbles" out. Cycle the shock a few times, there can be some trapped air...

pic of springs powder coated & assembled.

[87 GN]

A Arms:

I like the Summit A Arms because of the extended Arms. The difference in the overall length, is About 3/4" from stock arms... Some pep upgrade to the RPM Arms, it is a good up grade. RPM does not make extended Arms. I haven't broke any Arms. I have broke a few rear bulk heads.. To run these armes it is a good idea to use the Summit drive shafts CVD. You can still use the stock Revo CV drive shafts but they will not last very long because of the extra angle, on the drive shafts.

Arms on the far right & far left are the rear arms. The middle two are the front arms. Notice the extra set of holes on the rear arms, this is the extention.

===

30,548

[87 GN]

Push Rods...Tie Rods:

Not much going on, I have been painting the body on my 5ive, pic later maybe...with the rest of the trucks for some good sizing difference........

Using the P2 rockers you use one spacer on each end of the push rods. I did powder coat them, didn't turn out well so I will prob paint them of try another round of power coating.

My basher Revo I kept stripping the rod ends on the rear toe links. It was shoving the rod into the rod end, not pulling it out.
So I used one spacer on one end & just tight'n the rod ends all the way on. It could use just a little more toe in, but close enough...

The push rods... both ends are Right hand thread, toe rods... have both Left & Right hand threads.


push rods in front, tie rods in back of pic.....

===

[IvVaum]

*eating popcorn and watching*

keep up the good work...

[87 GN]

just a few build pic:
the lower A Arms use a total of four short hinge pins
the upper A Arms use a total of two long hinge pins

===center drive shafts installed to trans & F&R diffs.

===rear rockers mounted to the bulk head

===

31,075

[50togo]

Like that last shot! Looks like it glows

[clp71220]

87gn what powder coating machine are you using. I may powder coat my Kershaw chassis. I have seen a starter kit for around $150.

[acidburn123]

wow the color combination is eye catching, well done !

[87 GN]

It does pop, I'm like'n it alot.... HotCoat

Steering Assembly:

I know there are two different servo springs. 5344X Heavy Duty & 5344 Std... I have yet to find what the actual difference is, higher spring rate I'm assuming..... how much idk.. I have one so I will put it on, they look exactly the same.

The spring out of the package is a new Std spring

===pic'd is the Maxx steering stop, gives a tighter turning radius...

===

===An old trick is to put a washer under the spring. I did this on my Basher, used 6 mm flat washer. Fits perfectly.

===

===


If you are still using Dual "two" servos you need to center them up. Even a brand new truck needs centering.
The humming you hear is the servos fighting each other to get to center. With proper adjustment the hummimg will stop..

[87 GN]

Going to try a little roll center, I want more traction on the front wheels.......

page #27 manual
There are two holes on the bulkheads to mount each upper suspension arm. The roll center of the vehicle can be raised by mounting the upper control arm in the lower of the two holes. This will effectively increase the roll stiffness of the vehicle (similar to installing swaybars). Adding roll resistance to one end of the vehicle will tend to add traction to the opposite end. For example, increasing roll resistance in the rear by installing the upper arms in the lower holes will provide more traction for the front wheels and potentially more steering. Installing the upper arms in the lower holes on the front and rear will increase overall roll resistance without changing the handling balance. The arms are installed in the upper position from the factory to make the truck easier and more forgiving to drive and less likely to traction roll in turns. The lower holes should be reserved for track tuning. Note: When the upper suspension arms are moved to the lower holes, the front outer toe link ends and the rear toe control links should be repositioned to eliminate bump steer. Refer to the Bump Steer Elimination chart on page 28, and look up your suspension combination (caster angle and roll center position) to find the correct position for the front outer toe links and the rear toe control links. Adjustment is achieved using the shims and hollow balls provided with the vehicle.
=====================================
Caster Adjustment: I am going to try 12.5 deg.
The caster angle of the front suspension may be used to adjust the understeer (push)/oversteer handling characteristics of the model. Generally, increasing the caster angle will move the truck towards an oversteer condition (more traction on the front tires, less on the rear tires). Decreasing the caster angle will create a tendency towards understeer (pushing in the turns). From the factory, the front suspension is set to a caster angle of 10-degrees. The rear caster angle is not adjustable. The caster angle of the front suspension can be adjusted from 5° to 15°. Adjust the caster by positioning the caster adjustment shims on the upper control arms of the front suspension as shown in the table to the right.

Caster..........In Front of Hinge Pin Boss.....Behind HingePin Boss
5.0°.............None............................. .....Four
7.5°.............One.............................. ......Three
10.0°...........Two............................... .....Two
12.5°...........Three............................. .....One
15.0°...........Four.............................. ......None

front

[87 GN]

Needed to rounded off the end of the servo arm, little to close to the chassis...

===had to trimmed the chassis a little too...

===installed...

===Max steering stop...

===there is two screws that screw in the servo horn..

===

===

===skid plate, hold hinge pins & steering mount...

[erevobasher]

PM sent your way 87 GN.

[87 GN]

Motor & Gearing:

This is a planed 2/3s 22.2v street machine. So I am going to get a few good speed runs with the 2200kv.
Then it will end up with the 1800kv for monster torque...

I have posted this pic before but here it is again.
Right Castle 1515 ~ 2200kv
Left Castle 1512 ~1800kv




as a general rule:
2000-2700kv = 4s lipo/ 12-14 cells
1800-2200kv = 5s lipo/ 14-16 cells
1500-2000kv = 6s lipo/16-18 cells


A temp gun is kind of a must have.....

Hot motor + cool esc = under geared.
Cool motor + hot esc = over geared
Everything warm just right..

Motor ~ 180/190*F (82/88*C) maximum, ideally 140/160*F (60/71*C), temps can be 10*F higher inside the motor
ESC ~ pretty much same temps / Fan comes on @ 150*F (65*C)
Lipo's ~ 140*F (60*C) max, ideally 100/120*F (38/49*C).........



Diff ratio

4s = 40 mph
5s = 50 mph
6s = 60 mph

change the cell count, spur & pinion count, & tire size.


BrianG speed chart:

http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html

Copy / paste: Import this:


Differential Ratio: 2.8461538461538463
Transmission Ratio: 1.8333333333333333
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 54
Pinion Tooth Count: 21
Total Voltage: 22.20
Motor KV: 2200
Tire Diameter (inches): 5.9
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor Coil Resistance: 0.006
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 3 : 1
Total Ratio: 15.65385 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 18.54 inches (470.8 mm)
Rollout: 1.18:1
Total Motor Speed: 48840 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 54.76 mph (87.97 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 2200
KT constant: 0.61 oz-in/A

playing with the gearing chart.....

All gearing @ 25/54 6s @ avg 4.0v per cell.....

*this is for high speed runs only*
2200kv
82.23 mph (132.09 km/h)
52800 RPM
Spur/Pinion Reduction Ratio 2.16 : 1

*Street bashing*
1800kv
67.28 mph (108.07 km/h)
43200 RPM
Spur/Pinion Reduction Ratio 2.16 : 1

[50togo]

It will never pull 4.0 volts more like 3.7 to 3.8 volts especially with the 1800. Speeds would be much lower too

[Naaier]

Their is some good info in this thread..you have probably seen this. I like the reference of the speed chart that you can use for a quick guesstimate of speeds...Speed Chart

By the way the build is coming along nicely .

[revoman78]

that orange and black is so cool looking can not wait to see it all back together

[RC-nightmare]

why is that little rascale in every picture its so scary haha

[87 GN]

http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5243047

[RC-nightmare]

Omg its everywheree

[clp71220]

That little rascale has friends everywhere. . I have one named HAMMIE in my thrend.

[87 GN]

Sorry.....Have been down for a bit. Time to clear some things up. I use 4.0v per cell, to be on the conservative side. So with a fully charged battery at 4.20v speed could be 5 mph faster than posted above. I don't think so, with many factors that effect top speed, one being wind drag.


Here is a list of Lipo battery pack voltages with cell counts. If you are wondering what the 2-12S in parenthesis means; it is a way the battery manufactures indicate how my cells hooked in series (S) the battery pack contains.

Batts in series double the voltage:
2x 2s 20c 5000mah = 4s 20c 5000mah

Batts in parallel double the mah capacity:
2x 2s 20c 5000mah = 2s 20c 10,000mah.

3.7 volt battery = 1 cell x 3.7 volts (1S)
7.4 volt battery = 2 cells x 3.7 volts (2S)
11.1 volt battery = 3 cells x 3.7 volts (3S)
14.8 volt battery = 4 cells x 3.7 volts (4S)
18.5 volt battery = 5 cells x 3.7 volts (5S)
22.2 volt battery = 6 cells x 3.7 volts (6S)
29.6 volt battery = 8 cells x 3.7 volts (8S)
37.0 volt battery = 10 cells x 3.7 volts (10S)
44.4 volt battery = 12 cells x 3.7 volts (12S)



Two very good sources for more information....for Denewboobafaction...

https://sites.google.com/site/tjingu...po-terminology

http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-batteries.html

Information on chargers...
A little dated, there are some nice charges that have come out, not mentioned....
Non the less there is some very good information.

http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-battery-chargers.html

[87 GN]

more good info


AOD's Links Revo

Erevo 101:
EREVO FAQ

Lipo, LVC, Brushless & Battery charger/charging guides & purchasing links:
TUTORIALS

Refer to this to setup the Mamba Monster ( MMM ) esc for maximum performance:
CASTLE LINK GUIDE


Refer to this to find parts, upgrades, batts & chargers etc:
USEFUL LINKS


And direct from Castle Creations ( the esc manufacturers ):
MMM FAQ

Driver's ED Manual

LED warning light meanings


battery compartment:


33,693