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Thread: SumRevo

  1. #201
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    Looking good!
    ERBE, MERV BB

  2. #202
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    that orange is so cool looking with the black

  3. #203
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    I like your pets and nice job with the theme

  4. #204
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Steering Parts:

    Steering arm:
    still in the package before powder coating..


    Servo Horn:
    25 Tooth Spline... more pic's later......... this is a little horn



    Servo:
    Savox SA-1230 bit of over kill but that is what this truck is all about....
    about $75.00 & free ship .... like it so much I bought two, one for my other Revo...

    ===


    Dimensions(mm): 40.3x20.2x45.0
    Weight(g): 79.0
    Speed(@4.8V sec/60): .20
    Torque(@4.8V oz-in): 417.0
    Speed(@6.0V sec/60): .16
    Torque(@6.0V oz-in): 500
    Gear: Unique Steel
    Bearing: 2BB
    Case: Full Aluminum (Top and Bottom Caps are Plastic)
    25 Tooth Spline

    .........
    30,078
    Last edited by 87 GN; 12-13-2012 at 09:51 PM. Reason: info..
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  5. #205
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    You will need a bec for that!

  6. #206
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Great Servo you got there...Ive been running one in my Summit for the past few months with no issues. Nothing wrong with a bit of overkill mate .
    Rock n Rolla !

  7. #207
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    No need for a BEC at a Max of 6v, would not really pay to put one on. That is why I went with this servo & the $$$...
    The MMM BEC is putting out at least 5 ~ 5.5v, so the servo sould be putting out 450 ish oz-in of torque..
    Now if it had a Max of 7.4v then I would put on a CC BEC. Like I did on my Hitec...
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post4916876
    Last edited by 87 GN; 12-14-2012 at 10:47 AM.
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  8. #208
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    Any reason why you picked the servo horn , would the stock one not fit ?

  9. #209
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Stock will fit, but it is "plastic".......
    This horn will lock it's self on.... there is a screw to clap & a screw to hold it onto the servo.
    that is the more pic later....
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  10. #210
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    man that servo alone strong enough to steer two revo hahhaha.
    | Rally GT8 Powered By CC |

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87 GN View Post
    Stock will fit, but it is "plastic".......
    This horn will lock it's self on.... there is a screw to clap & a screw to hold it onto the servo.
    that is the more pic later....
    Makes sense
    Well let us know how your conversion goes, I am fed up with the dual servos on mine and looking for doing a single servo mod ... seen many peeps using the hi-tech ones , but going with the 1230 or perhaps 1231 with no BEC is a much more low cost solution.

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87 GN View Post
    No need for a BEC at a Max of 6v, would not really pay to put one on. That is why I went with this servo & the $$$...
    The MMM BEC is putting out at least 5 ~ 5.5v, so the servo sould be putting out 450 ish oz-in of torque..
    Now if it had a Max of 7.4v then I would put on a CC BEC. Like I did on my Hitec...
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post4916876
    Problem isnt the reduced voltage, its the current draw of the Savox servos. They are power hungry!
    I just got a steal on a pair of like new JR Z9100T's. $100 shipped for the pair, 370oz at 6V. Now the delimma...Do I run one or both LOL. One will be plenty.

    +1 on ditching the plasctic servo horn. They tend to bend even if ever so slightly throwing the steering off. I also like the style posted above where two screws clamp around the splines instead of one screw into the shaft. I changed all mine over to this style.

  13. #213
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Thanks to ksb51rl....

    Savox uses a Futaba (same as Traxxas) 25-Tooth spline


    23T
    * Airtronics: 23T
    * JR: 23T
    * KO: 23T
    * MRC: 23T
    * Multiplex: 23T
    * Sanwa: 23T
    * Spektrum: 23T

    24T
    * Hitec: 24T

    25T
    * Ace/Thunder: 25T
    * Cirrus: 25T
    * Duratrax: 25T
    * Futaba: 25T
    * Hobbico: 25T (Some servos like the CS-170 uses 24 splines)
    * HPI: 25T
    * Kyosho: 25T
    * Power HD: 25T
    * Savox: 25T
    * Tamiya: 25T
    * Team Associated: 25T
    * Tower: 25T
    * Traxxas: 25T
    Last edited by 87 GN; 12-14-2012 at 02:01 PM.
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  14. #214
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Knuckles:

    Stock knuckles do not really need upgraded. MHO The bearing do quit well considering the abuse they are exposed to... I do not do any maintenance to the bearings..If a bearing goes bad you can replace it for about $1... I tried packing them with lith grease once & the bearings might have made it six runs. All it did was attract more dirt into the bearings, wearing them out & locking it up... There is a small shoulder to position the bearing..... I have had the rear outer bearings get pushed inside the knuckle due to "bad" landings.....


    Even on a new set of knuckles, I use teflon tape on the pivit ball caps. This helps keep the caps from backing out...

    First I cut the tape in half (see pic). Then a few wraps on the cap (2~3), there is a right & wrong way to wrap the cap. When you screw in the cap, you do NOT want the tape to unwrap. If it does you need to wrap the tape in the opposite direction.
    As for assembly I run the pivit balls into the A Arms & tight'n the caps just enought to get the play out & not cause any binding to the suspention travel. Need to take a little time to get a good feel of the tightness of the caps.

    pic knuckle, tape, pivit ball, pivit ball cap, & tool used for tight'n or loosen the cap.

    30,286
    Last edited by 87 GN; 12-14-2012 at 09:30 PM.
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  15. #215
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Shocks:

    Because this is a street machine, no big air jumps.
    I'm going with the stock springs, but changed the shock oil to 60wt.
    orange = 3.2......18.3 stock front
    gold = 3.8......21.7 stock rear
    Hoping for a smooth or softer suspention..

    Springs & Shock Oil

    Revo page #21
    http://traxxas.com/sites/default/fil...l_091216_0.pdf

    Summit page #21
    http://traxxas.com/sites/default/fil...607-manual.pdf


    spring rates

    .........N/mm.....lb/in
    yellow = 2.6......14.8

    white = 2.9......16.6

    orange = 3.2......18.3 stock front

    green = 3.5......20.0

    gold = 3.8......21.7 stock rear

    tan = 4.1......23.4

    black = 4.4......25.1

    silver = 4.9......28.0 supplied front

    pink = 5.4......30.8

    blue = 5.9......33.7 supplied rear

    purple = 6.4......36.5

    Revo....
    From the factory, the shocks are filled with SAE-40W silicone oil. Only use
    100% silicone oil in the shock. Higher the viscosities, the heavier (thicker) shock oil.

    My basher Revo current setup....
    P2 Rockers 80 wt Blue Rear Silver Front, inner hole.
    I set the shock preload by pushing the chassis to the ground.
    If the springs fully compress, back off the preload, if not fully compress increase the preload...

    When changing or filling the shocks besure to get all the air "bubbles" out. Cycle the shock a few times, there can be some trapped air...

    pic of springs powder coated & assembled.
    Last edited by 87 GN; 12-15-2012 at 01:44 PM.
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  16. #216
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    A Arms:

    I like the Summit A Arms because of the extended Arms. The difference in the overall length, is About 3/4" from stock arms... Some pep upgrade to the RPM Arms, it is a good up grade. RPM does not make extended Arms. I haven't broke any Arms. I have broke a few rear bulk heads.. To run these armes it is a good idea to use the Summit drive shafts CVD. You can still use the stock Revo CV drive shafts but they will not last very long because of the extra angle, on the drive shafts.

    Arms on the far right & far left are the rear arms. The middle two are the front arms. Notice the extra set of holes on the rear arms, this is the extention.

    ===

    30,548
    Last edited by 87 GN; 12-16-2012 at 08:53 PM.
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  17. #217
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Push Rods...Tie Rods:

    Not much going on, I have been painting the body on my 5ive, pic later maybe...with the rest of the trucks for some good sizing difference........

    Using the P2 rockers you use one spacer on each end of the push rods. I did powder coat them, didn't turn out well so I will prob paint them of try another round of power coating.

    My basher Revo I kept stripping the rod ends on the rear toe links. It was shoving the rod into the rod end, not pulling it out.
    So I used one spacer on one end & just tight'n the rod ends all the way on. It could use just a little more toe in, but close enough...

    The push rods... both ends are Right hand thread, toe rods... have both Left & Right hand threads.


    push rods in front, tie rods in back of pic.....

    ===
    Last edited by 87 GN; 12-17-2012 at 10:10 PM.
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  18. #218
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    *eating popcorn and watching*

    keep up the good work...

  19. #219
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    just a few build pic:
    the lower A Arms use a total of four short hinge pins
    the upper A Arms use a total of two long hinge pins

    ===center drive shafts installed to trans & F&R diffs.

    ===rear rockers mounted to the bulk head

    ===

    31,075
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  20. #220
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Like that last shot! Looks like it glows

  21. #221
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    87gn what powder coating machine are you using. I may powder coat my Kershaw chassis. I have seen a starter kit for around $150.

  22. #222
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    wow the color combination is eye catching, well done !

  23. #223
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    It does pop, I'm like'n it alot.... HotCoat

    Steering Assembly:

    I know there are two different servo springs. 5344X Heavy Duty & 5344 Std... I have yet to find what the actual difference is, higher spring rate I'm assuming..... how much idk.. I have one so I will put it on, they look exactly the same.

    The spring out of the package is a new Std spring

    ===pic'd is the Maxx steering stop, gives a tighter turning radius...

    ===

    ===An old trick is to put a washer under the spring. I did this on my Basher, used 6 mm flat washer. Fits perfectly.

    ===

    ===


    If you are still using Dual "two" servos you need to center them up. Even a brand new truck needs centering.
    The humming you hear is the servos fighting each other to get to center. With proper adjustment the hummimg will stop..

    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  24. #224
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Going to try a little roll center, I want more traction on the front wheels.......

    page #27 manual
    There are two holes on the bulkheads to mount each upper suspension arm. The roll center of the vehicle can be raised by mounting the upper control arm in the lower of the two holes. This will effectively increase the roll stiffness of the vehicle (similar to installing swaybars). Adding roll resistance to one end of the vehicle will tend to add traction to the opposite end. For example, increasing roll resistance in the rear by installing the upper arms in the lower holes will provide more traction for the front wheels and potentially more steering. Installing the upper arms in the lower holes on the front and rear will increase overall roll resistance without changing the handling balance. The arms are installed in the upper position from the factory to make the truck easier and more forgiving to drive and less likely to traction roll in turns. The lower holes should be reserved for track tuning. Note: When the upper suspension arms are moved to the lower holes, the front outer toe link ends and the rear toe control links should be repositioned to eliminate bump steer. Refer to the Bump Steer Elimination chart on page 28, and look up your suspension combination (caster angle and roll center position) to find the correct position for the front outer toe links and the rear toe control links. Adjustment is achieved using the shims and hollow balls provided with the vehicle.
    =====================================
    Caster Adjustment: I am going to try 12.5 deg.
    The caster angle of the front suspension may be used to adjust the understeer (push)/oversteer handling characteristics of the model. Generally, increasing the caster angle will move the truck towards an oversteer condition (more traction on the front tires, less on the rear tires). Decreasing the caster angle will create a tendency towards understeer (pushing in the turns). From the factory, the front suspension is set to a caster angle of 10-degrees. The rear caster angle is not adjustable. The caster angle of the front suspension can be adjusted from 5° to 15°. Adjust the caster by positioning the caster adjustment shims on the upper control arms of the front suspension as shown in the table to the right.

    Caster..........In Front of Hinge Pin Boss.....Behind HingePin Boss
    5.0°.............None............................. .....Four
    7.5°.............One.............................. ......Three
    10.0°...........Two............................... .....Two
    12.5°...........Three............................. .....One
    15.0°...........Four.............................. ......None

    front
    Last edited by 87 GN; 12-23-2012 at 07:48 PM. Reason: pic
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  25. #225
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Needed to rounded off the end of the servo arm, little to close to the chassis...

    ===had to trimmed the chassis a little too...

    ===installed...

    ===Max steering stop...

    ===there is two screws that screw in the servo horn..

    ===

    ===

    ===skid plate, hold hinge pins & steering mount...
    Last edited by 87 GN; 12-23-2012 at 08:41 PM.
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  26. #226
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    PM sent your way 87 GN.
    Tekin powered E-Revo

  27. #227
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    SumRevo

    Motor & Gearing:

    This is a planed 2/3s 22.2v street machine. So I am going to get a few good speed runs with the 2200kv.
    Then it will end up with the 1800kv for monster torque...

    I have posted this pic before but here it is again.
    Right Castle 1515 ~ 2200kv
    Left Castle 1518 ~1800kv




    as a general rule:
    2000-2700kv = 4s lipo/ 12-14 cells
    1800-2200kv = 5s lipo/ 14-16 cells
    1500-2000kv = 6s lipo/16-18 cells


    A temp gun is kind of a must have.....

    Hot motor + cool esc = under geared.
    Cool motor + hot esc = over geared
    Everything warm just right..

    Motor ~ 180/190*F (82/88*C) maximum, ideally 140/160*F (60/71*C), temps can be 10*F higher inside the motor
    ESC ~ pretty much same temps / Fan comes on @ 150*F (65*C)
    Lipo's ~ 140*F (60*C) max, ideally 100/120*F (38/49*C).........



    Diff ratio

    4s = 40 mph
    5s = 50 mph
    6s = 60 mph

    change the cell count, spur & pinion count, & tire size.


    BrianG speed chart:

    http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html

    Copy / paste: Import this:


    Differential Ratio: 2.8461538461538463
    Transmission Ratio: 1.8333333333333333
    Other Ratio: 1
    Spur Tooth Count: 54
    Pinion Tooth Count: 21
    Total Voltage: 22.20
    Motor KV: 2200
    Tire Diameter (inches): 5.9
    Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
    Motor Current Draw: 0
    Motor Coil Resistance: 0.006
    Spur/Pinion Ratio: 3 : 1
    Total Ratio: 15.65385 : 1
    Tire Circumference (inches): 18.54 inches (470.8 mm)
    Rollout: 1.18:1
    Total Motor Speed: 48840 RPM
    Vehicle Speed: 54.76 mph (87.97 km/h)
    Effective KV Value: 2200
    KT constant: 0.61 oz-in/A

    playing with the gearing chart.....

    All gearing @ 25/54 6s @ avg 4.0v per cell.....

    *this is for high speed runs only*
    2200kv
    82.23 mph (132.09 km/h)
    52800 RPM
    Spur/Pinion Reduction Ratio 2.16 : 1

    *Street bashing*
    1800kv
    67.28 mph (108.07 km/h)
    43200 RPM
    Spur/Pinion Reduction Ratio 2.16 : 1
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 12-15-2013 at 05:47 PM.
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  28. #228
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    Their is some good info in this thread..you have probably seen this. I like the reference of the speed chart that you can use for a quick guesstimate of speeds...Speed Chart

    By the way the build is coming along nicely .

  29. #229
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    that orange and black is so cool looking can not wait to see it all back together
    With great brushless comes great responsibility.

  30. #230
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Sorry.....Have been down for a bit. Time to clear some things up. I use 4.0v per cell, to be on the conservative side. So with a fully charged battery at 4.20v speed could be 5 mph faster than posted above. I don't think so, with many factors that effect top speed, one being wind drag.


    Here is a list of Lipo battery pack voltages with cell counts. If you are wondering what the 2-12S in parenthesis means; it is a way the battery manufactures indicate how my cells hooked in series (S) the battery pack contains.

    Batts in series double the voltage:
    2x 2s 20c 5000mah = 4s 20c 5000mah

    Batts in parallel double the mah capacity:
    2x 2s 20c 5000mah = 2s 20c 10,000mah.

    3.7 volt battery = 1 cell x 3.7 volts (1S)
    7.4 volt battery = 2 cells x 3.7 volts (2S)
    11.1 volt battery = 3 cells x 3.7 volts (3S)
    14.8 volt battery = 4 cells x 3.7 volts (4S)
    18.5 volt battery = 5 cells x 3.7 volts (5S)
    22.2 volt battery = 6 cells x 3.7 volts (6S)
    29.6 volt battery = 8 cells x 3.7 volts (8S)
    37.0 volt battery = 10 cells x 3.7 volts (10S)
    44.4 volt battery = 12 cells x 3.7 volts (12S)



    Two very good sources for more information....for Denewboobafaction...

    https://sites.google.com/site/tjingu...po-terminology

    http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-batteries.html

    Information on chargers...
    A little dated, there are some nice charges that have come out, not mentioned....
    Non the less there is some very good information.

    http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-battery-chargers.html
    Last edited by 87 GN; 01-10-2013 at 10:07 PM. Reason: spelering
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  31. #231
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    more good info


    AOD's Links Revo

    Erevo 101:
    EREVO FAQ

    Lipo, LVC, Brushless & Battery charger/charging guides & purchasing links:
    TUTORIALS

    Refer to this to setup the Mamba Monster ( MMM ) esc for maximum performance:
    CASTLE LINK GUIDE


    Refer to this to find parts, upgrades, batts & chargers etc:
    USEFUL LINKS


    And direct from Castle Creations ( the esc manufacturers ):
    MMM FAQ

    Driver's ED Manual

    LED warning light meanings


    battery compartment:


    33,693
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  32. #232
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    I have thought about painting my radio with a bit of orange...(maybe)

    Motor Mount Mod:

    You might remember this mod, time for an update. Might have been over thinking it, the first time around.lol
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post4910702

    tools needed..... 3/8"wrench ...... 5/32" allen wrench ...... 13/64 = .203 drilled bit ..... dremel, utility knife or hand file.

    Using a std bolt is kind of hard to get the wrench on, next to the trans. The obvious choice is to use an allen head. So I used a #10-24 x 1.250 shcs bolt, #10 washer and a 10-24 nut. In metric the bolt would be "about" .476cm x 3.1750cm.
    Didn't buy a lock nut, going to use a drop of blue Loctite.
    http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...ex?sku=1123149

    First thing is to cut back the black plastic motor hinge. Needs to be flush or with the motor mount.
    uncut

    cut back using....dremel, utility knife or hand file.



    Next is to drill (13/64") the motor plate & the motor hinge for the 10-24 bolt.

    ===


    I used a 10-24 shcs bolt, because the #10 washer, is big enough to cover the motor bracket. Once drilled & the motor plate mounted on the trans you might have to remove the vent cover to start the bolt into the motor plate.

    ===

    34,115
    Last edited by 87 GN; 01-14-2013 at 09:07 PM.
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  33. #233
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Good time to post the slipper break in. I have a new slipper I'm working on, not going to post it up just yet. So this will have to do for now...


    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post4920527

    Slipper Clutch Break-In
    The E-Revo Brushless Edition’s slipper clutch requires a break-in procedure
    to ensure consistent operation with the extremely high power output of
    the included Castle Creations Mamba Monster brushless motor system. The
    slipper clutch has been adjusted to the correct initial setting for break-in.
    Follow these steps to ensure maximum performance and life from your
    slipper clutch:
    1. Make your first runs with the model using the stock gearing and 6- or
    7-cell NiMH packs, or 2S LiPo packs.
    2. Drive normally. The slipper clutch should slip momentarily when
    accelerating aggressively on high-traction surfaces (you will hear a
    whirring sound when the slipper clutch allows the spur gear to slip).
    3. If excessive slippage is noticed (slipping that lasts for more than 3
    seconds under hard acceleration), or the slipper clutch slips anytime
    the throttle is applied at any lever, stop driving immediately. Let the
    slipper clutch cool for 10-15 minutes. When the clutch is cool, test-drive
    the vehicle again. If you still experience excessive slippage, allow the
    slipper to cool once more, then tighten the slipper nut ¼ turn (turn the
    nut clockwise) and repeat the break-in process. Do not adjust the slipper
    clutch before it has cooled.
    4. Continue to run the vehicle and monitor slipper clutch performance as
    noted above, and readjust if necessary. When the run is complete, the
    slipper should be fully broken in.
    After break-in, the slipper clutch is ready for any type of driving, with any
    batteries up to 6S Lipo. Set the slipper clutch so it only slips for a moment
    (if at all) under hard acceleration in high-traction conditions. If excessive
    slippage is noticed, stop driving immediately. Continuing to drive with a
    loose slipper will cause damage to the slipper unit. You must let the slipper
    cool down to ambient temperature before tightening the slipper nut and
    resuming driving.

    http://traxxas.com/sites/default/fil...KC1491-R00.pdf
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  34. #234
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Drive shafts:


    I have two sets of Summit CVD drive shafts to play with, so I am going to use the four longs. I have plans for the four short later. A std set of Summit CVD are two long & two short. This is because of the front & rear locking diff in the differential. The CVD's fit just like the stock Revo CV drive shafts. The CVD's are a little stronger then the stock CV. Also CVD's should be used with LT rockers, because of the greater angel the drive shaft is being put in. If you can't buy just the longs, & don't want to buy two sets. You can run the longs in the front & the shorts in the rear (jmho). All it will do is stretch the rubber boot, & if the boots tears it is not a real big deal.


    Borrowing this mod from clp71220, thinking it is a pretty good idea to strengthen the shafts. Being just a street machine I'm not worried about the tape getting torn up, even if it does just a quick retape. First wiped off any grease or oil, pulled it pretty tight & went four wraps around each end. I had to order orange of coarse.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/190654345725...84.m1439.l2649

    First drive shaft is the short & the four taped are the longs....

    ===


    Shorter Axle Eye to Eye Length (in/mm): 4.75/121

    Longer Axle Eye to Eye Length (in/mm): 4.5/114

    Shorter Axle Overall Length (in/mm): 6.9/175

    Longer Axle Overall Length (in/mm):7.2/183
    Last edited by 87 GN; 01-15-2013 at 09:32 PM.
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  35. #235
    RC Racer
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    I likes what I see.
    If its not breaken then your not racing.

  36. #236
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Mar 2010
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    kansas
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    Drive shaft assembly:

    As I said the CVD fit just like the stock CV drive shafts..
    These are the 5145 Screw Pin, 4x15mm, notice they have blue thread locker all ready on the pins.


    drive shaft & screw pin install on the diff


    stub shaft in the knuckle & bearing


    I use the HPI 17mm hubs, so this is the pin & a spacer form a Summit rocker post..MW 6x10x2


    The HPI hubs machined to fit the Traxxas wheel hub. I leave these in the wheels when I change to a different set of wheel they are that tight to try & get out.


    progress pic

    ===

    ===



    little more info on the machined hubs..
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5065568
    Last edited by 87 GN; 01-18-2013 at 08:44 PM.
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  37. #237
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    Great, another awesome use for a washer that Traxxas doesn't sell... (by itself)
    (RAH)² (AH)³ + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA)² + (OOH)(LA)²

  38. #238
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    kansas
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    Traxxas doesn't sell
    don't you know... & they fit perfectly....

    Paint:

    Pro-Line Slipstream Clear Body PRO3300-60
    I start by cutting out the body with body scissors, & Dynamite Knurl Handled Reamer for the body mount holes.

    Next clean the underside with soap, water, & a soft scratcher. The scuffs from the scratcher lets the paint get a little better adhesion. Next is to get your design, & start taping. I use pin striping tape & painters masking tape. Never have used the Liquid Masking Film. It would have made some of the taping much easier. I spent a good three hrs. getting everything just right. Using regular masking tape will let the paint bleed under the tape, so you will not get sharp lines between each color.

    Speaking of color it is best to paint from dark to light. Painting a dark color over a light color will dull the lighter color. To make lighter colors pop better, use white as a backer.

    Paint I used minus the white.


    Taping

    ===

    ===


    Lite coats are a must, to keep from getting any runs. I don't like to wait for the paint to dry between coats.
    SO I cheat & use a hair dryer to help speed up dry time between each pass. (about 8~10 coats or as needed)..

    This pic looks like it is covered but it is not, I think it was about five coats.


    I like to use a shop light to see if I'm getting good coverage. This pic was taken at the same time as the last pic.^


    Now after about 4~5 more lite coats, & the same shop light, much better......


    Black is done so I pilled off the tape for the next color.

    ===
    Last edited by 87 GN; 01-18-2013 at 10:24 PM.
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  39. #239
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Here is the orange......... of coarse..

    ===


    Backed in white..


    painted & the windows tinted. The window tint paint is very thin so........
    Very lite coats or you will get runs. The more coats.. the darker the windows will be..

    ===

    ===
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  40. #240
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    so cal
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    9,244
    Nice! Looking pretty sweet!

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