SumRevo

[87 GN]

The 1/5 Trenchers are for my converting to BL Losi 5ive T. Didn't want to wait on Traxxas any more to come out with a 1/5 off road truck. I'm not going to run them on my Revo, to heavy, I like my 3.8 Badlands. My buddy has a HPI Baja he has the 1/5 Badlands, looks like they might be a good fit. Still a little bit heavy for a 1/8 scale truck..
I can see how the extra weight would stress the stub axels. Interesting set~up on your Maxx, looks good..

[anr2442]

So do u have any idea how the 1/5 bow ties perform without tape? Major balooning like badlands?

Is there an 8mm bore 24mm Hex on the market to attatch to XXL losi stub axles?

[87 GN]

So do u have any idea how the 1/5 bow ties perform without tape? Major balooning like badlands?

Is there an 8mm bore 24mm Hex on the market to attatch to XXL losi stub axles?

IDK haven't ran them & prob won't, prob going to sell them.
IDK haven't seen anything, haven't been looking either. sorry...
17,868

[minirevobasher]

Why is the dog always in the picture lol

[humayrayakongkinaon]

peggy (i think thats what the dog's name) is there as his signature, lol.

[87 GN]

Figurines for (sizing & you know it's one of my pic). That is Frankie aka (Frances) my daughter has a minature dachshund, & Peggy the piggy next to Frances.

[Kurrupt]

pic......

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In this first picture, what tires are those in the center?

[Babby]

Youve got quite the wheel/tire collection.

[87 GN]

You've got quite the wheel/tire collection.
YEP.. never thought I would buy so many..
how long did it take to build your summit/revo
About two weeks, waiting for parts two months...lol


Top pic L to R.
Badlands on Geodes
HPI Blast Spoke rim, Phaltline tire
Talons on Geodes

Geode rim 76 grams
Talon & foam 207 grams
Sidewall protector.. beadlock style 9 grams
tire, rim, taped, beadlock...total weight 327 grams
width 3.225
OD 5.990
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Badland tire, Geode rim, taped 270 grams
width 2.750
OD 5.950
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Org. Trencher on Tech 5 rim 375 grams
width 3.370
OD 6.860
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HPI
Blast Spoke rim, Phaltline tire, taped 290 grams
width 2.750
OD 5.530

[Yooperrc]

Nice build man. I just got mine up and running today. Summit cvds,2 speed tranny ( I only use one) , Summit bumpers, body mounts and body. Had it out on 4s with my new MMM setup and omg is it insane. I don't know how you guys handle 5/6s on these things rofl.

[87 GN]

just a little fun
right 1515 ~ 2200kv & 1512 1800kv

right 1515 ~ 2200kv & 1717 1580kv

right 1515 ~ 2200kv & 2028 780kv 1/5 scale, does not fit in a Revo without major mod,

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18,853

[87 GN]

I think it's time to upgrade to Lunsford Titanium push rods. Don't know what I hit, but it was something. I have another set of Ti push rods, but they are for the LT rockers. SO... as you can see I bought a new set for the P2 rockers, new rod ends & hollow balls. The rods come with a zip tie cut to length for setting the rod ends lenght.
P/N's Rods Lun2807 Rod ends Tra5348

19,456

[Ghostbuster]

So many motors!!! Ahhhhh!!!

[JJ1224]

I think it's time to upgrade to Lunsford Titanium push rods. Don't know what I hit, but it was something. I have another set of Ti push rods, but they are for the LT rockers. SO... as you can see I bought a new set for the P2 rockers, new rod ends & hollow balls. The rods come with a zip tie cut to length for setting the rod ends lenght.
P/N's Rods Lun2807 Rod ends Tra5348

19,456

Hey 87 are the Lunsfords better than the Traxxas pushrods and turnbuckles???

[87 GN]

Titanium is a better material, much stronger than alum or regular steel rods.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

and it cost alot more than the regular or aluminum rods, but seeing all those BL motors money is not a problem to you man, i'd love to get one of the 1512 size BL motor. just curiuos, whats your favorite truck that you run the most?

[87 GN]

Well worth the $$. The LT Ti rods, I hit a T post at about 35 mph right on the rod & it bent it just a bit. Took it apart straight'n it out still running..
Well still finishing the 5ive, I'm in no hurry, so haven't drove it yet...making battery hold downs & finish painting the body.
I really do like driving them all. Took the Summit out yesterday. I think the dogs had more fun than I did. Ha.. They are napping right now.

[EMaxx_Quebec]

Interesting set~up on your Maxx, looks good..

Thanks man Here is my 1717 maxx

[IvVaum]

I think it's time to upgrade to Lunsford Titanium push rods. Don't know what I hit, but it was something. I have another set of Ti push rods, but they are for the LT rockers. SO... as you can see I bought a new set for the P2 rockers, new rod ends & hollow balls. The rods come with a zip tie cut to length for setting the rod ends lenght.
P/N's Rods Lun2807 Rod ends Tra5348

19,456

will be considering these soon...how much did u get urs for...and how are they holding up now?

[87 GN]

Doing just fine, with normal bashing will last forever, paid $37.00 for the rods...

[BL-Bob]

I think you got your 1518,1515 and 1512's mixed up. I have never seen a black 1512 1800kv. Do you think the rod ends will get smashed up on the threads without the blue washer things?

[87 GN]

ooop you are correct the first pic is the 1518 1800kv on the left.

I tried to use the alum rod spacers, but there is nothing for the spacer to shoulder on. The "width" of the space is short too,
I tried doubling spacers, but it was to wide to set the push rod length. They are working SO far so good.....I had the Titanium push rods for the LT rockers on my Revo & I never had any trouble with the rod ends either....

[CPrime]

Old set-up Springs Silver front ~ Blue rear. 80 wt shock fluid..
New set-up Springs Summit double Yellow front ~ double Orange rear. 80 wt shock fluid..

Went for a easy run, everything looked & sounded good. Few small jumps nothing big, just an easy run. Went to blow it off & clean it up & the shock caps are leaking (all four).

If you remember I took the blatters out of the stock caps & put them in the alum caps. I drilled two small breather holes in the top of the cap. I lost a little less than half the fluid. It looked liked the fluid was coming out of the threads of the cap.. So I took the caps off & measured them to the stock caps. Everything is right on. I am thinking I need to make the breather holes just a little bigger. If the air is not coming out of the breather holes fast enough, so it is pushing the shock fluid out of the threads of the cap??? I didn't want to drill the hole in the side like the stock cap, because of the threads on the inside of the cap. Also if I missed the placement it might leak. (hahaha)

Any ideas or suggestions.. thanks...

Did you got around fixing (or using...) your alum shock caps? I'm looking at putting GH ones. Not sure about the top drill...Looks to me this would allow the bladder to deform too much due to lack of pressure between the bladder and the inside top of the cap. The side bleeder hole seems useful to prevent oil pressure in the threads on plastic caps as they could expand causing leak, not the case with alum...just a thought...

[87 GN]

idk right or wrong, i drilled the top of the cap for two reasons.
1) I didn't want to screw up the threads inside the cap
2) I didn't want to miss on centering the the hole on the side of the cap (to high or low)

I took a cap to work & lathed off .020 ~ .030, it just seamed the cap was bottoming out before the cap tight'n to the blatter.
I have yet to test tho........

I think the breather hole is to let the air push out as the blatter cycles. Also lets the extra oil out if you over fill the shock.

[87 GN]

started this "little" project about eight months ago. Finally, here is what I came up with..


Alum deck:
Started with two 24"x 24" 1/4" alum dimand plate. I was going to make the trailer 18x27. Including a 3" dove tail.
Plasma cut the width to 18" then took the drop off & cut it down to 3" for the dove tail.
Started building, & everything was out of proportion. So I made it 6" longer, now it is 18"x 33".
Set the angle of the Dove tail, just guessed what looked about right. Tig Welded the dove tail (pic), & added the six inches to the front.



Frame:
I used one inch channel for the frame rails. The dove tail I measured up 3", Then notched the channel & welded the notch shut. Some times it is better to be lucky then good. Beacause it came out perfect the first time, with the angle of the dove tail, All I had was a little grindging to get the ends to square for the rear channel.

=== in the back ground you can see one rail welded &

23,106

[87 GN]

ramps:

Not much to them really . Made them 4.500 x 7.000, I used .750 angle iron & expanded metal. I milled off the ends as you can see in the pic...to make nice square corners....

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[MITCH316]

Nice one mate...are you making it with an adjustable angle for the launch .

[87 GN]

one more pic the ramp on the left is weld & the ramp on the right is tacked up.

[87 GN]

axles:
A trailer need alxes if you want it to roll, so I started with a used set of knuckes. Hacked off (cut off wheel) the pivit ball housings & then the steering / toe ears. Then used an air grinder to smooth things up a bit. Leaving me the center of the knuckle. Used the lathe at work & turned them down to a nice round .700. OD

===and turned down

===I used four broken drive shaft & stub axles, for the turned down knuckles

[87 GN]

Bottom frame rails & axle tubes:
Machined the axle tubes so the knuckle centers would bottom out on the inner shoulder & have a press fit of about .005. Made the tubes long enough to fit the rims & tires I'm going to use......

===saddled the one inch channel for a nice fit, & set the length for the tandem axle

===and welded

[humayrayakongkinaon]

I'm sorry 87 GN for not following you on this but, what are you building? is it a ramp or a trailer? and what are you going to use it for? its a bit heavy for a ERBE to be hauling from the look of the pics, is it for your your LOSI 5ive? sorry for all the Q's.

FYI i always like what you post here, its very informative. i just need to catch up LOL.

[87 GN]

car trailer
Little jump ahead I missed a few pic along the way........pic is the trailer upside down showing the cross members

===every trailer needs a hitch, so boxed one in..what you can't see is the safety chains I welded on, wraped in tape getting ready for paint.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

aahhh now i'm seeing the picture. RC car/truck trailer thats cool.

[87 GN]

Next....had to build a jack so this is what I came up with. I cross drilled the mount so I can pin it up for towing...

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===better pic of the hitch, & the bottom frame rail makeing the tongue

[Wolfslash16]

What are you planning to tow with that? A spare Summit?

[87 GN]

I have a few trucks

Fenders:
Quite easy really, put the wheels on so I could get the length & width. Laid a piece of .500 material on top of the tires to get the height.
I did not want to have to try to bend the angles, so I did each angle with seprate pieces of sheet metal, cut off the sheer. Welded the seems, last I cut & welded the back support....then sanded & smoothed most of the welds........

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===trailer flipped over

=== axle tubes & fenders

===front rail, cross members, fenders

[87 GN]

Paint & assembly:

knuckles centers pressed into the axle tubes

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*sorry for all the short posts but I keep loosing the page & having to start over again.....
23,454

[Wolfslash16]

Wow, I'm impressed! Looking forward to seeing the finished product!

[87 GN]

Had to trick out the ramps, so spot welded on some hinges, I turned on the lathe. Now I can slide the ramps in & out & hinge them up for towing. With the tabs, welded on the ramps & frame.

===slid in

===slid out

===ramps locked up

[BL-Bob]

http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post4900837