SumRevo

[87 GN]

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===My lady sock over the ESC to keep the rocks & grass out

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[eemmaaxxxx]

Your Revo looks great. Really like the paint job and the wheels.

[87 GN]

Thanks charging my batteries now, go break it in...

[debbo]

What are your thoughts on the spring rates now that you have bashed them abit?

Double Orange 5.4 is what you settled on Correct?

Thanks in advance, I'm looking for a suspension change.

[87 GN]

Old set-up Springs Silver front ~ Blue rear. 80 wt shock fluid..
New set-up Springs Summit double Yellow front ~ double Orange rear. 80 wt shock fluid..

Went for a easy run, everything looked & sounded good. Few small jumps nothing big, just an easy run. Went to blow it off & clean it up & the shock caps are leaking (all four).

If you remember I took the blatters out of the stock caps & put them in the alum caps. I drilled two small breather holes in the top of the cap. I lost a little less than half the fluid. It looked liked the fluid was coming out of the threads of the cap.. So I took the caps off & measured them to the stock caps. Everything is right on. I am thinking I need to make the breather holes just a little bigger. If the air is not coming out of the breather holes fast enough, so it is pushing the shock fluid out of the threads of the cap??? I didn't want to drill the hole in the side like the stock cap, because of the threads on the inside of the cap. Also if I missed the placement it might leak. (hahaha)

Any ideas or suggestions.. thanks...

[ArmyofDarkness]

I'm not really sure what to suggest- sounds like the bladders aren't sealing properly when you screw down the shock caps; never had a leaky shock-cap problem before so I don't have any experience of fixing them like that..

[DareDevyl]

Enjoying this thread, thanks for sharing, and really nice job on your truck!

In regards to this shock thing, that sounds identical to what happened on my MERV shocks. I had bought HR aluminum shock caps. They had holes pre-drilled in the tops. What happened is, after the air is expelled, there is still huge pressure from the fluid itself which would blow out this top hole. At first I did not realize, and rebuilt the shocks but after it happened again, I really took a closer look and noticed the tiniest little hole in each of the bladders, almost missed it. Anyway, maybe I could have soldered the hole in the cap closed, but did not use them anymore, went back to stock.

[87 GN]

Thanks for the replys... Humm well that gives me a few more things to look at. Didn't think there would be a hole in the bladder. The leak is coming out the threads of the cap. Not out the breather hole, I drilled in the top of the cap. IDK yet

[reod12x2]

so how she going now?

like the build

[87 GN]

SumRevo is doing well. I have left the suspension LT rockers & inner hole. The drive shafts have no signs of damage to the u-joints. Again if I was ruuning a BL system I would be breaking drive shafts like crazy. Been there done that. I am going to put a 14.4 Dewat motor on it. I have the part's & have been working on it, when I have time. Have one for my Summit too.

[87 GN]

I have been playing again, just like messing with things & the weather is bad.
SumRevo......
I am not going to go over the complete mod for converting to a 14.4 Dewalt. I'm including three good link's instead.
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=my%2520dewalt
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http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...ghlight=dewalt
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http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...20installation

I used 10 ga wire to solder on the brush holders. Then I soldered on two 0.1uf ceramic-disk Capacitor p/n 272-0135 form Radio Shack. Ground the can just a bit to let the solder stick better. Some say you do not need the caps with the 2.4 GHz radio, I put them on just to match the stock motor. Then soldered on EC5 connect's for connecting to the ESC.

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If you didn't know already the motor mount needs the hole widened, to mount up the Dewalt. Used the mill at work & endmilled the holes wider. The outer hole get's pretty thin. So I milled a little extra on the opposite hole, & mill some relief for the head of the screw. (or dremel)
Made a spacer so I could turn the pinion around. There is a prob with doing this. You can't get to the set screw on the pinion when everything is assembled. Not a real big deal really I'm not going to be changing gearing alot. Measured it up & made the spacer .100 thick. Then made cut backs in the spacer. (colored orange) To let the spacer sit flat on the motor. That made the spacing off. So made another spacer .150. The pic's have the .100 spacer, I need to change it out to the .150. You need a little longer screws for the extra width, to mount the motor..
Gearing: Well according to BrianG speed chart, I am going to start with 17/65 = 20 mph. I need to get a speed on radar but I went with 18/65.. Maybe 25 mph...I have been breaking in the new motor varing speeds, F&R.
http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html

===real good pic of the plate & cut backs

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===The .100 spacer, see how the spur & pinion are not lined up very well...


I have left the truck lifted & have yet to have drive shaft breakage. I went & filled the diff cup with JB Weld & some stuff called Propoxy, I will post it up later..
5,115...

[BrianG]

It's too bad the motor shaft is so short or you could just flip the pinion...

[87 GN]

Yep it is a bummer. I was trying to come up with a way to make the shaft longer but I've got nothing.

Just a note on the kv's of the Dewalt's

12 volt motor is 1650kv, 14.4 volt motor is 1350kv and the 18 volt is 1100kv.

hi Brian..

[87 GN]

I should have let all the bubbles come out of the diff cup (carrier). I think there was just enough air to cause a prob. So to try something new, I'm not the first to do this, Lock the differential (rear). I have a few spares so the first diff, took it a part & cleaned it up, used break cleaner. Propoxy 20 is a two part epoxy putty, sets up in 20 min. Break off a piece roll & fold the puddy until the streaks are gone. Press some firmly in the bottom of the cup then place the gears in & top of with a little more. Then finish assemble. Like I said it sets up in 20 min, I have it in Sumrevo already & have a short run today over some rocks & I think I am going to really like this set up, what a difference... Ebay this> http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...All-Categories

I also did a diff with JB Weld, a little easier to fill the diff cup (carrier). JB Weld is also a two part epoxy, steel & hardner, use equal amounts & mix. I used an allen wrench & a plastic lid to stir it on. Same process take it apart clean, fill cup about half, set in the gears & top off & finish assembly. I just finished & the JB weld is starting to set up but I think it will take at least another day to set up. I am not worried about the drive shafts. One I have alot of spares & two I'm not runnung a BL system yet.


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===cup is full

5,149...

[87 GN]

To further get ready for winter. I made a set of snow chains (#16 jack chain). (Canyons) To keep the water out of the tires I put a little JB weld over the breather holes. These wheels are just for snow so I can leave the chains on. I need to get a cover or make one I have yet to come up with something other than the Outer Wears cover... I have seen the shower cap method.

Like the painted body in the 3rd & 4th pic haha....the green stared out yellow...

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[Imprez]

I should have let all the bubbles come out of the diff cup (carrier). I think there was just enough air to cause a prob. So to try something new, I'm not the first to do this, Lock the differential (rear). I have a few spares so the first diff, took it a part & cleaned it up, used break cleaner. Propoxy 20 is a two part epoxy putty, sets up in 20 min. Break off a piece roll & fold the puddy until the streaks are gone. Press some firmly in the bottom of the cup then place the gears in & top of with a little more. Then finish assemble. Like I said it sets up in 20 min, I have it in Sumrevo already & have a short run today over some rocks & I think I am going to really like this set up, what a difference... Ebay this> http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...All-Categories

I also did a diff with JB Weld, a little easier to fill the diff cup (carrier). JB Weld is also a two part epoxy, steel & hardner, use equal amounts & mix. I used an allen wrench & a plastic lid to stir it on. Same process take it apart clean, fill cup about half, set in the gears & top off & finish assembly. I just finished & the JB weld is starting to set up but I think it will take at least another day to set up. I am not worried about the drive shafts. One I have alot of spares & two I'm not runnung a BL system yet.


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5,149...

Wouldn't have been easier to just put the 5381X Traxxas Spool gear in your rear diff ???

[87 GN]

Have not used a spool, but what I have read about them are don't work very well. IDK..
I had 700k diff fluid in the carrier, I didn't let all the bubbles out, might have been why it diff'd more than I wanted.
Just trying something different.
5937...

[Imprez]

I commend you for trying it your own way my friend...

I ordered a Spool Gear for my rear-diff since I often run on a short icy track in the winter and in the summer it's mainly bashing and hill climbing in a sand pit ...

[MonsterZ]

Unfortunately the Traxxas spools are not heat treated, and break often. I have found that locking up the stock carriers with JB Weld (or whatever) seems stronger. My theory is it's because the stock diff side gears and spiders are hardened.

[Imprez]

This may well be the case, I'll have to watch for this as soon as I get the spool gear from the mail...

Thanks for the cue.

[Eadracing]

Won't all of that jb weld prevent the gears from spinning all together?

[87 GN]

Yep that is the point, locks the diff. It is kind of like locking the diff on the Summit, but I can't unlock it.....lol

[Imprez]

Would a Summit locking diff work on an ERBE ??

[87 GN]

Yes if you use the Summit bulk heads. The diff is wider, for the locking fork, in the diff..

[Imprez]

Now that could be an interesting mod to do !!! Lock the rear diff when you do hill-climbs, short-course, dirt, sand etc...
Un-lock the diff on asphalt or high-grip surfaces !!!

[87 GN]

There are alot of pep that run BL system in their Summit's. Usually a (copy/paste ebay) Tekin 1/8 Rx8 Brushless Sensored/Sensorless ESC. It is better for crawling, but the MMM does well if geared low, helps with clogging..

If you think a BL is hard on the Revo diff, the locking diff is even worse. There is a company that is now making a alum locking diff carrier tho...

[Imprez]

Yeah, I can only imagine the locking-diff is getting his **** handed to him by the 2200kV / MMM combo...

[87 GN]

Revo....Did some drifting in the shop this weekend. Started without tape, did ok, but I put on the masking tape & had a blast... To keep the tape from coming untaped...... I taped counter clockwise, Facing the rim...


hard to take pic & drive....

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7,405

[Wansfall]

87gn . How has the 2speed held up and which ratio did you end up using ? i'm looking at picking this up for my revo for the trail walks my wife and I do. I was curious at the tops speed with the lower gearing .
Thanks.

[87 GN]

Sum~Revo I have never put on a BL system. I really like the Dewalt. If we would get some snow I would be out playing in it.. The two speed is doing just fine. I spend a bit of time in the Summit forum & I have yet to read, of anybody with a BL system have any troubles with the two speed trans.. My Summit is running 26 mph in high & 14 mph in low. geared 17/65..
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5034481


I have three trucks right now
Revo
Summit
Sum~Revo

Edit... Summit two speed..
■Transmitter-operated High-Low transmission switches from a 70:1 first gear ratio for climbing torque to a 25:1 second gear ratio for trail speed

[FullyCharged]

Ahh, my first traxxas rc was a summit back in 2010. I remember i got tired of people bragging about the erevo and how fast it was was in comparison so i went and installed a 2200kv mamba into it with 4s lipos That thing was unstoppable. All the stregths of a summit with the speed of a erevo.Funny thing is, i called it a summevo lol. Awesome project man! I sure miss those waterproof days though, nearly cartwheeled into a creek today and nearly crapped myself so yeah..

[87 GN]

Thanks.. I had a Summit a couple of years ago. Sold it thought I wanted more speed. Then went & bought another one lol...

I sure miss those waterproof days though, nearly cartwheeled into a creek today
Where you saying stop stOP STOP.

[bentrocker]

Ha ha I know that feeling. Stop stop stoooooop. I see some masking tape in my future. Never thought of that before.

[87 GN]

I took the Canyon's off about 3 weeks ago, still no snow. I noticed the wheel bearing cutting into the HPI hubs. So here is what I came up with & there is a small prob.

I have alot of spare parts & screws, not sure if they came with the Summit bulk heads or the Summit screw kits...

The spacers are MW 6x10x2. This washer is a spacer for the Summit Rocker Arm Post #5354. There is one spacer on the left rear & one on the right front. Here is the prob there is no p/n, & I have yet to find this size of washer. I have looked about everywhere, hardware stores, online, hobby shop, etc.. So if you know where I (we) can find a 6x10x2 flat metal washer I need twenty more of them....

pic

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8,241

[ssanderson1]

Washersusa.com does custom washers...! But there is a 1000 piece order minimum Best of luck finding some!

[87 GN]

Thanks that is a few more than twenty..

[Brewers74]

Have to tried Fastenal they have helped me out several times I get all my hard to find atv nuts,bolts,washers from them manufactures prices are just to expensive

[ssanderson1]

This might work...? http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts...160-06106.html

Hopefully the mods don't mind if I post a link to a totally unrelated to rc site...?

[87 GN]

Have to tried Fastenal they have helped me out several times I get all my hard to find atv nuts,bolts,washers from them manufactures prices are just to expensive

I tried on line, I will have to call the local Fastenal. That will be interesting...

This might work...? http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts...160-06106.html

Hopefully the mods don't mind if I post a link to a totally unrelated to rc site...?

Humm yep the is the one.....

[87 GN]

Spacers need to be 6x10x2mm.. I found four, HPI 86121 Brass washers 5x10x3mm..... $1.76... So I had to mod a bit, I put them in the lathe & drilled the center hole out to 15/64 (.234). 6mm is (.236). Then turned them down .022... they are now 0.100 thick. That is the perfect thickness..


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