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Thread: SumRevo

  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    SumRevo

    Where to start, as you can see from all the bags of parts, I have been a little busy on Ebay, it is a start.. I am still waiting on a few more parts, kind of need them to get started. I all ready know that this little build will not measure up to another member's build. (MC) Set the bar pretty high for the rest of us. HAHA I have a few mods I want to share. If all goes well I will get this truck together.. Might need a little help and advise from you pep's.. Should be fun & be a killer truck

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  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Well I started with Rit dye, dying all the gray parts. I put all my parts in a big plastic tub, & set it outside. Just incase of a spill. I boil my water, poured it in the tub then add the dye & stir a bit. Not sure what happened this time but after a couple hrs it was purple. I think most times that will do it. So I left it for about a day, next day nice & black.
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  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    I haven't read much about 2 speed trans. But I know some of the Summit pep are running BL motors on them. Guess I will find out, because I am going try one. After seeing the outrunner motors I will check into them later. I think they will be a perfect combo with the 2 speed trans, if I get the correct kv. I have never had a 2 speed apart & was not to sure, but just watched as I took it apart & it is pretty straight forward. The first pic is the two halves the one on the right has already been pulled apart & lubed. I like to pack the bearings with grease. This Q&A comes up every so often how to take the seals off. I use a razor blade & put it on the outer edge of the seal, getting under the seal with the corner of the blade & lift. As you can see in the sec pic the first bearing has the seal, second has the seal removed, & the third is packed with grease.

    ===
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    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Sorry for the slow pace, waiting on a couple parts & time to work on it... Have a question, I have the GH alum shock caps, but they do not have the bleed hole drilled in the cap. So the question is to drill or not to drill this is my question. I have read that the hole needs to be in there. The drill bit is .059. The caps will prob not make it on this truck, they are going on the Revo maybe. Thanks
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    awesome venture, 87 GN. Good luck (not that you need it :-)

  6. #6
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    All my 1/8 scale shocks ( employed on the Gmaxx & TXT-1 ) have the tiny bleed hole in the shock cap, so I cant imagine it's a bad thing to too, unless there is something distinctly different about the GH shocks/ caps that means they shouldn't have one ( such as the bladder not sealing in place properly when the shock is assembled )...
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

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    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Thanks:
    So I put one on & cycled the shock it all looks & fills good. I think I will wait & try them without the hole. Can put them in later.

    awesome venture, 87 GN. Good luck (not that you need it :-)
    Thanks I think it will turn out good with a little help.
    Last edited by 87 GN; 08-10-2011 at 10:12 PM.
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  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Here is a pic of Summit shocks on the right & Revo on the left. As you can see the different length.
    I have read some pep like the longer springs for big air jumps. I am just not sure about the spring rate tho.
    The spring rates are: double yellow 2.6 rear / double orange 3.2 front (stock).

    This is what I am using in the Revo now: P2 rockers silver 4.9 front / blue 5.9 rear with 80 wt shock oil. I really like this set-up. Handeling is good & does well on big air jumps.

    The Summit shocks have the #2 piston & 50 wt oil (stock). I'm going to keep the 50wt & try orange / orange with LT rockers. I had a Summit & the backend saged all the time, drive me crazy.
    I think the longer springs will give you more ajustablity. Any suggestions? Thanks
    Noob question what does GTR stand for?

    Last edited by 87 GN; 08-11-2011 at 11:48 PM. Reason: spelling
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  9. #9
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    Grand Touring Racer
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Thanks GTR....
    I keep reading guys saying that the Summit shock have more thread on the shock housing. That is not the case both Revo & Summit have a thread width of .805.. As you can see in the pic above the springs are longer for the Summit LT rockers. But the thread width is the same.
    Last edited by 87 GN; 08-21-2011 at 10:21 PM.
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  11. #11
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    I use summit springs on both my erevos and actually prefer it over the standard revo springs. With them being longer you have more room to adjust your preload and the weight of the springs have handled 60-70 ft jumps easily. When I am in my back yard track I can loosen them up for better handling and grip. As for the bleeder hole, yes drill it out. Just like in truggies/buggies you can use some foam compensator pads for better consistency though out the run. Some call it the shock mod while Losi actually sells a kit for it.

    Terry
    X3-RC8T/X2 ERBE/Losi SCTE/SC10 4x4/Baja 5SC/Rusty

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Little more help ^ I was going to drill it & use the stock bladders in the cap. Drill the hole in the center like the stock cap.

    foam compensator pads for better consistency though out the run. Some call it the shock mod while Losi actually sells a kit for it.

    What is that, you lost me??
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    On the losi buggies /truggies they have a mod called the shock mod. Its a piece of foam behind the bladder in the air space area. What happens is when you start running your truck the shock fluid consistency starts to change thus changing the air space making the run inconsistent. By putting a small piece of foam in there it keeps that air space the same which then keeps your shocks more consistent throughout the run. Search losing shock mod for more info. I do this mod to all my shocks that have a bladder.

    Terry

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    X3-RC8T/X2 ERBE/Losi SCTE/SC10 4x4/Baja 5SC/Rusty

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    Quote Originally Posted by 87 GN View Post
    Here is a pic of Summit shocks on the right & Revo on the left. As you can see the different length.
    I have read some pep like the longer springs for big air jumps. I am just not sure about the spring rate tho.
    The spring rates are: double yellow 2.6 rear / double orange 3.2 front (stock).
    Double yellow is 4.9 and double orange is 5.4

    5648 Spring, shock (red) (long) (GTR) (4.9 rate double yellow stripe) (1 pair) ................... $6.00
    5649 Spring, shock (red) (long) (GTR) (5.4 rate double orange stripe) (1 pair) ................... $6.00

    Single yellow is 2.6 and single orange is 3.2
    5435 Spring, shock (red) (GTR) (2.6 rate yellow) (1 pair) ...................... $6.00
    5437 Spring, shock (red) (GTR) (3.2 rate orange) (1 pair) ..................... $6.00

    Quote Originally Posted by 87 GN View Post
    Thanks GTR....
    I keep reading guys saying that the Summit shock have more thread on the shock housing. That is not the case both Revo & Summit have a thread width of .805.. As you can see in the pic above the springs are longer for the Summit LT rockers. But the thread width is the same.

    I'm one of those guys. It appears I've been misleading people.

    Had to dig deeper and according to the parts lists the Summit and the ERBE has the same part number forthe shock housing, TRA5466X. Also if you look at the specs both share the same shock length: 87mm.

    I don't have my original shocks any more so I can't compare them but IIRC the thread on the ERBE shocks at least appeared to be shorter than the Summit ones I got.

    These are my current shocks:


    These are the ones I no longer have. I had to distort the image slightly for the shocks to show better:


    Just looking at them it seems like my Summit ones have more thread on the shock housing. At least to me. Don't know what to think really
    E-Revo Xerun 150A/Leopard 4282//MBX6-Te MMM/CC1518

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Its a piece of foam behind the bladder in the air space area.
    Thanks Divey: I'm with you now. I was thinking you left the blatter out. Now if I can get them drill in the correct spot.

    JFS: I looked up the shock rates & I thought I had it correct. I was looking at the single Yellow & Orange, thanks for the correction. When I looked it up I was thinking that can't be right, well it was not. When I get time later I will get a pic of the two shocks side by side with cow pliers to show the width. They could have changed the tread width & went to making them the same, cutting cost. I can see the difference in your two pic.

    ^Thank you for the help guys^
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    Yeah, that's probably the most likely scenario. My ERBE started out as a brushed version with the 27Mhz radio. Not many parts of the original E-Revo left now though

    I believe there's a saying that goes something like this: Assumption is the mother of all ...... mistakes.

    Lesson learned, next time I'll look at the facts a bit better before giving advice.
    Last edited by j.f.s; 08-23-2011 at 09:01 AM.
    E-Revo Xerun 150A/Leopard 4282//MBX6-Te MMM/CC1518

  17. #17
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    It's all good I had the spring rates wrong. I will still get that pic up later. Thanks again...
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  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Revo in the rear & Summit in the front. I am going to use 80 wt F&R. Rear spring double Orange & front spring Double Yellow.
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    Finally received my diff fluid. I am using OFNA p/n 10230 / 700,000 wt. I am useing it in both front & rear diffs. IDK see what happens. I didn't want to buy the locking diff, that is why I'm trying this heavy of a fluid. I have rebuilt several diffs, but useing this heavy of a diff fluid is a nightmare to work with. It is super sticky, I had to use Brakleen break cleaner to clean up when I was done. I did shim the diffs but I am giving a link on how to (from AOD's links) this member did a better job then I could have. http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-Diff-Shim-Mod

    My pic's are not the best:

    First: pic you can't see it because it is clear but the diff fluid container is laying on it side & it has yet to come out (bad pic). I also want to bring your attention to the diff cup gasket. These are new diffs & the gasket is in bad shape, the center gasket is new. Is there a better gasket then these?

    Second: pic is trying to show how think this stuff is. If I stuck the allen wrench in the container it would pick it up.

    Third: pic is the diff cup filled with the 700,000 fluid.

    Fourth: pic is the ring gears covered in gorilla snawt.


    ===

    ===

    ===
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    interesting... did you wait a lot for the bubbles to come up so that you fill it completely?

    i am afraid that in my project (integy alu bulkheads+losi diffs) i made a huge mistake. i only had 1000 and 5000 fluids so i used 1000 on the rear... and i prepare it for a basher... how bad is it? i am bored to change the oil again :/

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    30k wt is factory default IIRC. 1k and 5k sound like something you would use in a nitro buggy setup.

    Just numbers doesn't say all that much though since different manufacturers specify their ratings differently. Check out these pages:
    http://www.twf8.ws/php/tip/shock.html
    http://www.rcrcr.com/index.php?optio...eral&Itemid=46
    Last edited by j.f.s; 08-24-2011 at 04:31 AM.
    E-Revo Xerun 150A/Leopard 4282//MBX6-Te MMM/CC1518

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuzion View Post
    interesting... did you wait a lot for the bubbles to come up so that you fill it completely?

    i am afraid that in my project (integy alu bulkheads+losi diffs) i made a huge mistake. i only had 1000 and 5000 fluids so i used 1000 on the rear... and i prepare it for a basher... how bad is it? i am bored to change the oil again :/
    Like jfs said 1,000 & 5,000 not a good choice. I also bought some 120,000 I am going to start running it in the Revo. I will put it in this winter when the snow flies. Fusion My Revo has 50,000 front & 30,000 rear right now, would be a better choice. Bubbles those bubbles are going no where. This stuff is so think they will be forever comming to the top. Suppose I could have let them sit for a couple days to come to the top. I filled the cup about half full then put the gears in & topped it off with what you see. Then put the ring gear on & had some come out one hole as I was putting in the other 3 set screws. I know the cup is full I am not to worried.
    Last edited by 87 GN; 08-24-2011 at 08:40 AM.
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    i see.. and what i see next is changing my diff liquid again... grrr

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    Quote Originally Posted by 87 GN View Post
    Finally received my diff fluid. I am using OFNA p/n 10230 / 700,000 wt. I am useing it in both front & rear diffs. IDK see what happens. I didn't want to buy the locking diff, that is why I'm trying this heavy of a fluid. I have rebuilt several diffs, but useing this heavy of a diff fluid is a nightmare to work with. It is super sticky, I had to use Brakleen break cleaner to clean up when I was done. I did shim the diffs but I am giving a link on how to (from AOD's links) this member did a better job then I could have. http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-Diff-Shim-Mod
    My pic's are not the best:

    First: pic you can't see it because it is clear but the diff fluid container is laying on it side & it has yet to come out (bad pic). I also want to bring your attention to the diff cup gasket. These are new diffs & the gasket is in bad shape, the center gasket is new. Is there a better gasket then these?

    Second: pic is trying to show how think this stuff is. If I stuck the allen wrench in the container it would pick it up.

    Third: pic is the diff cup filled with the 700,000 fluid.

    Fourth: pic is the ring gears covered in gorilla snawt.


    ===

    ===

    ===
    im glad i looked through this thread because i was going to take my diffs apart and swap out the diff cups i put in my 3.3 (steel) but from the picture i see they changed the design of them and added pieces of metal to the spider gear pin, my 3.3 would strip out the plastic pin retainers in the cup, steel ones work well, did traxxas solve this issue with the redesigned diff cup?
    REVO 3.3, shumacher fusion .21,TC4, ERBE

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    I once saw a setup sheet from a known driver and it states about 75% Differential filled. What does it mean? We shouldn't fill them up all the way?

    To remove the air bubbles from shocks I saw a vacum pump that do the job, has anyone tried this with diff oil? Does it works?
    Strive not to be nitro, but rather to be electric.

  26. #26
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    im glad i looked through this thread because i was going to take my diffs apart and swap out the diff cups i put in my 3.3 (steel) but from the picture i see they changed the design of them and added pieces of metal to the spider gear pin, my 3.3 would strip out the plastic pin retainers in the cup, steel ones work well, did traxxas solve this issue with the redesigned diff cup?

    Yes the BL diff's have the H beam in the diff cup. This would be a good upgrade for your 3.3. You can buy an alum after market diff cup too. Upper right of this link has the break down of the diff: http://traxxas.com/sites/default/fil...r_100126_0.pdf

    I once saw a setup sheet from a known driver and it states about 75% Differential filled. What does it mean? We shouldn't fill them up all the way?I think you read that wrong. You are to full the diff to about 75%, then put the gears in. Next top off with the other 25%

    To remove the air bubbles from shocks I saw a vacum pump that do the job, has anyone tried this with diff oil? Does it works?
    Got me on that one IDK. I am going to say NO JMO no need to use a pump. Shocks I just fill them cycle it several times until all the bubbles are out, thinner fluid bubbles come right out.. Diffs the fluid is so think that just fill the diff cup & put the ring gear on, again JMO.
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  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    This is just some general info for denewboobafacation. The Revo diff's can be put in upside down. If you do, which ever diff is upside down the wheels will run backwards. Guess what the means, take the truck back apart & turn the diff over.
    As you can see in this first pic there is the words UP Revo on the housing. Yup this side up....

    Also for general info the second picture shows the bulks the front bulk is on the right.
    Frankie aka (Francis) is standing on it.

    Keeping with the SumRevo theme I am using the 120 - LT (Long Travel) rockers.
    My Revo has the 90 - T P2 (Progressive Rockers).


    ===
    Last edited by 87 GN; 08-24-2011 at 11:21 PM.
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  28. #28
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    Pushrods:
    First pic the front two push rods are p/n Lund 2806 4x101mm Titanium push rods. These are made for the LT rockers. You get the blue zip tie to set the lenght of the rod ends. The single rod in the back is the stock push rod. #5318 This rod is set for the LT rockers. If you are using the P2 rockers, you need to put the blue aluminum spacers p/n 5133A on each end of the push rod. To set the rod lenght for the P2 rockers.

    Carriers:
    Second pic the carrier on the left is a Maxx carrier, the carrier on the right with Frankie is a Summit/Revo carrier. IDK why but if you can see the bearing OD is smaller on the Maxx. The inner bearings are the same.
    Maxx: outer bearing #5117 6x12 / inner bearing #5120 12x18
    Sum/Revo outer bearing #5180 6x13 / inner bearing #5120 12x18


    ===
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  29. #29
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Finally starting to look like a truck. Diffs, bulks, rockers, push & tie rods, steering servo's, carriers. Speaking of carriers have the pillow balls screwed in the A Arms, & the ball caps adjust up. I prob spend to much time adjusting them trying to get them just right. Not to tight (cause's binding) or to loose (sloppy adds to wheel wobble).

    Second pic: Of coarse I went with the max travel steering stop. This is to shorten the turning radius. You install the supplied stop & have to move the screws to the outer hole on the servo horns. (page 26 in manual) Notice I have not hooked up the horns I need to power up the truck first, let the servo's center, then hook them up. Then make any adjustment to the servo arms, to stop any humming. From the servos binding each other trying to get to center.
    "If necessary, fine tune the length of the second steering link to eliminate any load on the system in the neutral postion." page 26


    ===
    Last edited by 87 GN; 09-03-2011 at 09:27 PM. Reason: can't speel or type!
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  30. #30
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    Rims & tires: options
    Summit Canyon's on TRX 5671 Geode 3.8 17mm
    Proline 1178-00 3.8 Badlands on Powder coated TRX 5671 Geode 3.8 17mm / taped three wraps
    Off set of 1.500
    Proline 1187-00 3.8 Badlands on Powder coated TRX 5372x Gemini 3.8 17mm / taped two wraps
    Zero off set
    Proline 1160-13 premounted Trencher on Tech 5 / 17mm

    There are several threads on taping tires so this will be short, Just clean the tire & tape (gorilla tape is best it is thicker & stickier) right down the middle. Wider tires may need two passes to get the width, just over lap in the center of the tire. I have an extra set of Canyon"s I might try baking & taping.



    Gemini's / Badlands


    Before powder coating, I like this look too. Geode & Badlands


    After powder coating. Geodes / Badlands


    Trenchers & Canyons
    Last edited by 87 GN; 09-03-2011 at 10:52 PM.
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  31. #31
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    Balancing:
    I am a believer in balancing. I don't mind doing it, only takes about 10/15 min to balance a set. I use modeling clay, some pep use lead weights. The clay stays soft & never gets hard, it sticks to the rim & stays pretty well. If something (rocks) get stuck in the rim it might take the clay off, just rebalance. I bought a balancer, but I have read of pep using the truck to balance. There are several vid's on how to. But I just clap the balancer to my work bench, mount the tire on the balancer, then lightly spin it. It will stop with the lite side up. This is where you need to put the weight on the top. Spin the tire & repete, until the wheel is balanced.

    package of clay:


    Because Traxxas has the "special" tooth on their rims(first pic).
    I mill out for that tooth on my ballancer to .125. (second pic)
    Or mount the wheel on backwards.

    ===


    Better pic of the balancer:


    All balanced:


    I went with HPI 17mm hubs & nut/s. Like on the balancer I had to mill for the tooth in the rims.
    Milled ones are on the left, spare set on the right needs milled.
    Last edited by 87 GN; 09-04-2011 at 11:09 PM. Reason: errors
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  32. #32
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    all is going very well..

    just a notification. if i were to build a truck from scratch i d do some strength mods as well. losi diffs or at least axles? a stronger (double) motor mount? something to look unique :P

    btw i am finishing mine i hope this week... has every mod possible on it heh i ll post it

  33. #33
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    Good question, I hear you, pretty tame build... JMO's.. guess my answer would be LST2 has been done. Original person that did it, was on another forum. I have two of them (LST2) to try, but I have yet to break a diff.
    Drive shafts, plastic stockers are cheap and I have not broke one in months. I have read of pep bending the steel shafts & haveing trouble with them popping out of the cups. Especialy if you are using RPM A Arms, because of the extra flex. Then having to buy the long cups. I don't remember, I think you can't or shouldn't use then with LT rockers. I like to think the plastic drive shafts are my weak point to save the diffs. (maybe not).
    RPM carriers I have read the pillow balls like to pop out easly, because of the softer plastic. A Arm IDK I have yet to break an A Arm.
    I'm not much for alum it is heavy, bends & is expensive. I have broke several of rear body mounts, & 2 rear bulks. Until I did the rear brace mod. I hope your build turns out the way you want it to.
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  34. #34
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    yeah i wont disagree for the most of it. except for the diffs the stock ones were driving me crazy. but i am too harsh with it

    i really dont mind how my project will do, as long as there is a project to work on i am ok... thats the spirit after all isnt it hah!

    btw, the rpm pillow balls indeed pop out on crashes...:/

  35. #35
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    Teknos with be the last carriers you will ever need. I loved mine and never had a pillow ball pop out. Also I did need to get the longer cups for steel CVD's while running RPM's as mentioned.

    Sweet build so far, looking forward to seeing it done!

  36. #36
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    Yea me to I need to get to work.lol
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  37. #37
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    oh ok that makes scence, guess mine is just not worn yet
    REVO 3.3, shumacher fusion .21,TC4, ERBE

  38. #38
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    Location
    kansas
    Posts
    7,821
    Took some time today.. Here are my choises of motors. Left to right
    The ESC is the MMM.
    1515 2200kv 5 mm shaft .197
    1518 1800kv 5 mm shaft .197
    1717 1580kv 6 mm shaft Castle Web site has it at 5 but it is 6 mm. .236
    Third pic is old faithfull. For crawling & winter snow.
    Titan 777 motor 5 mm shaft .197
    EXV-2 ESC
    The 1717 will prob end up on the Maxx the thing is huge. They were on a close out so I bought a couple. I think I have seen one on a Revo. Will have to look later.

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    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  39. #39
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    10
    thank you nice threat lots of info on everything , I got it in my favourite because I cant read it all in one shot to heard on my damage neck but I will , I always wonder about the motor month the motor having some play like that it most help a lots that set up,it my next improvement.
    is LHS what you guys talking about ? where to get that nice thick oil that look like clear grease

  40. #40
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    kansas
    Posts
    7,821
    Single servo: This one I might need some help.

    Traxxas servo Y connector: adapter (for dual-servo steering) P/N2046

    Aluminum Servo horn Hitec for Revo P/N 10374BK

    Castle BEC 10 amp P/N 010-0004-00
    specs & wiring digram:http://www.castlecreations.com/suppo...user_guide.pdf

    Hitec HS-7950TH P/N HTS37950
    "Ultra Torque" HS-7950TH is designed to operate on a two cell LiPo Pack. Featuring our high resolution "G2" second generation programmable digital circuit and our indestructible Titanium gears, The HS-7950TH has the performance and durability you've come to expect from a Hitec servo. Other features in the HS-7050TH include a 7.4v optimized coreless motor, integrated heat sink case, and a top case with two hardened steel gear pins supported by axial brass bushing.

    The HS-7950TG has been designed for the most demanding hobby applications including the largest aircraft and monster trucks. Featuring a titanic 403oz./in. of torque at 6.0 volts, while still maintaining a respectable 0.15 second transit time

    Detailed Specifications
    Motor Type: Coreless
    Bearing Type: Dual BB
    Speed: 0.15 / 0.13 sec (6.0v/7.4v) @ 60 deg.
    Torque: 403 / 486 oz./in. (6.0v/7.4v)

    Detailed Feature Descriptions
    # G2 Digital Circuit
    # Titanium Gear Train (MK first gear)
    # Ultra Performance Coreless Motor
    # Heatsink Case
    # (8) O-Rings for Water/Dust/Fuel protection
    # Dual Ball Bearing Supported Output Shaft

    This is the link from way back http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...o-single-servo
    I believe that this servo can do 7.4 v. Post #58 This is how I am wanting to wire it up. Just not sure on cutting the Y Harness w/+&-taking out on male end. I think this method will allow you to still connect the ESC to Castle Link. That is why I am wanting to do this method. What do you think, Thanks for the help.

    ===
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

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