Fastlane Monster Rustler, 100mph setup

[I EAT DIRT]

I hear you, I took over the kitchen table this week to build a new rc and the wife let me know I shouldn't of. LOL....

[PBO]

If you look at the front of his spoiler it has a pocket in the center that just act's as a big plow, the only way for the air to escape is to the side's. Where you want the air to be channeled is up and over the body to produce the down force.

The area of the wing you refer to may work to create a localised high pressure zone? a conventional front splitter works in a similar way...it 'traps' a ball (in side view) of high pressure which in effect smooths the leading edge without creating drag, allows low pressure flow over the body...which in turn creates negative lift

Now if you look that F1 car's, they also have a specially designed underside that work's with the center section of the spoiler to produce lower pressure under the car. Not saying in any way his spoiler is not going to help, I just don't think he need's that high of an angle on the bottom plane.

Yep, the F1 uses sophisticated under body effects to create a massive venturi which relies on low pressure being introduced in a small aperture at the front & exit in a large aperture at the rear

The aggressive angle - I agree, this could be reduced significantly. I went through this on my own Rustler. The image below is about mid evolution. I ended up softening most 'angles' to make the body slipperier which allowed me to milk a bit more speed out of if

[Stevez26]

Well here is the final build update of the fastlane monster
I have my doubs about the tire's because they do ballon a bit..... well see what they can handle on the road soon.

I have istalled the flm rear arms and integy steel driveshaft's. I habe drive a few times with the shafts and they hold wel pretty good onraod.

The front spoiler is not finished yet, stil need some end plate's on eatch side.

Let the pict's do the talking, ill gonna test the car this week, i need to buy a 6s lipo, so there wil be no 90mph+ runs yet, ill hope i hit 80.

I also installed a smaller rear wing to reduce drag.













greets Steve

[PBO]

White Lightning!

What type of rear wing is that?

[Stevez26]

hong-nor 1/18 scale truggy wing said the packidge

i hope it wil be as fast as lightning lol

[AZ Racer X]

Wow. . . . . .

I can't wait to see the vids. . . I would hate to ask this but that thing just looks like a whole bunch of tightly rolled up $100 bills. . lol. What's the cost about ?

[rustlerMLB]

how did you put dual shocks on the back

[rustlerMLB]

i want to put a mamba monster in my rustler but would it go faster if i put dual velineons in it and how hard would it be to do this by the way how do u get dual shocks in the rear

[I EAT DIRT]

Not really any way to fit the dual vxl motor's. Best bet is to run the 3800kv motor and up for speed run's. Anything bigger than the 3800 would be almost useless for bashing/racing.

[rustlerMLB]

would you recommend getting a 2200kv mamba monster as oppose to a 3800kv motor(what 3800kv motor did u have in mind) also what would i need to get/do to inssure the mamba fits

[RC-Fan]

would you recommend getting a 2200kv mamba monster as oppose to a 3800kv motor(what 3800kv motor did u have in mind) also what would i need to get/do to inssure the mamba fits

2200kv motor is 1/8 scale motor on the rustler will be good just for High speed runs nothing else, if you want a regular motor for your car 1/10 size that you can bash and have some decent speed the castle 3800 4 pole motor is what you need. To mount the mmm motor you will need an aluminum transmission.

[I EAT DIRT]

I run the 3800 with 3s and got 60.2mph with moderate gearing on an almost full aluminium rustler with extended chassis.

[rustlerMLB]

thanks for the feedback also how do u get dual rear shocks because my arms dont have threads in the back

[rustlerMLB]

someone please tell me where to get dual sided rear arms for dual shocks

[hurley747]

someone please tell me where to get dual sided rear arms for dual shocks

He drilled custom holes on aluminum rustler arms

[Stevez26]

He drilled custom holes on aluminum rustler arms

Yes and NO lol

you have to dril a 2.5mm hole in the stock or rpm arm
the FLM rear electric arms have those hole pre drilled ready. i did not modify one thing on the FLM rear arms.

Anyway, back on the project, i crashed the monster sideways into a curb @ 55 mph, all the flm aluminium surfived the crash.
Only the integy steel driveshafts broke like a twig, and some custom home made parts where trashed.

i have done a rebuild today, replaced 1 driveshaft for a slash 4x4 one, but now the car runs like crap, when i hit the throttle the rear goes left everytime.... i found out that both front arms are bent (not flm) so those wil be replaced for flm ones.

maybe locking the diff would be good for speedruns maybe???????

this thing is keeping me busy lol

gr Steve

[Dadx2mj]

maybe locking the diff would be good for speedruns maybe???????

Cant hurt to try it but I have seen others lock the diff in high powered speed run vehicles and have very bad results. Everyone I have seen try this have gone back to an unlocked diff.

[DasRustler]

Yes and NO lol

you have to dril a 2.5mm hole in the stock or rpm arm
the FLM rear electric arms have those hole pre drilled ready. i did not modify one thing on the FLM rear arms.

Anyway, back on the project, i crashed the monster sideways into a curb @ 55 mph, all the flm aluminium surfived the crash.
Only the integy steel driveshafts broke like a twig, and some custom home made parts where trashed.

i have done a rebuild today, replaced 1 driveshaft for a slash 4x4 one, but now the car runs like crap, when i hit the throttle the rear goes left everytime.... i found out that both front arms are bent (not flm) so those wil be replaced for flm ones.

maybe locking the diff would be good for speedruns maybe???????

this thing is keeping me busy lol

gr Steve

Speed runs and crashes, that's the toughest thing. Sorry to hear that.

Sideways : motor weight distribution. The easiest way out is throttle curve. The a gyro will not help on this one. I don't know whether you are using a gyro but if you do and it goes sideways at about 40% throttle then you need to reduce the gain below 50% on the gyro.

Diff lock : I have tried and nothing positive or negative. I initially locked using thick grease and then the hot racing spool. Same result on both. Little easier to keep straight but the throttle sideways is a ongoing issue.

From my experience the best way to avoid crashes is to have 60 to 70% drag brake. And if your TX supports it use 60% stroke ABS/ALB at 40% brake mark.

Hope this helps.

BTW kudos on your cratfsmanship. The best build I've ever seen.

On a side note metal is a big no no for speed runs. Parts might survive but you will never know what bent to what extent. I would test each and every part after a crash. Half a degree would make a night and day difference after 80 MPH
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[Stevez26]

Speed runs and crashes, that's the toughest thing. Sorry to hear that.

Sideways : motor weight distribution. The easiest way out is throttle curve. The a gyro will not help on this one. I don't know whether you are using a gyro but if you do and it goes sideways at about 40% throttle then you need to reduce the gain below 50% on the gyro.

Diff lock : I have tried and nothing positive or negative. I initially locked using thick grease and then the hot racing spool. Same result on both. Little easier to keep straight but the throttle sideways is a ongoing issue.

From my experience the best way to avoid crashes is to have 60 to 70% drag brake. And if your TX supports it use 60% stroke ABS/ALB at 40% brake mark.

Hope this helps.

BTW kudos on your cratfsmanship. The best build I've ever seen.

On a side note metal is a big no no for speed runs. Parts might survive but you will never know what bent to what extent. I would test each and every part after a crash. Half a degree would make a night and day difference after 80 MPH
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Thanks fore youre info, and you to dad!

my throttlecurve is set on medium, i wil put it back on low, i'm not using gyro btw, not wanting to either.
al 6 springs go down a bit when the car is on the ground, so it's not to stiff.

the stange thing is that i did not have that sideways problem b4 my buggywheels, i have to give traxxas credit fore the anaconda's, just great wheels fore pavement, to bad they dont make belted ones.

im gonna tweak the esc a little more, and test with drag brake, it's currently on 20%

when i have the new front flm arms i'm gonna make new speedruns, results are very dissapointing at the moment, only 61 mph.

greest Steve

[DasRustler]

Thanks fore youre info, and you to dad!

my throttlecurve is set on medium, i wil put it back on low, i'm not using gyro btw, not wanting to either.
al 6 springs go down a bit when the car is on the ground, so it's not to stiff.

the stange thing is that i did not have that sideways problem b4 my buggywheels, i have to give traxxas credit fore the anaconda's, just great wheels fore pavement, to bad they dont make belted ones.

im gonna tweak the esc a little more, and test with drag brake, it's currently on 20%

when i have the new front flm arms i'm gonna make new speedruns, results are very dissapointing at the moment, only 61 mph.

greest Steve

I see. I don't know why you are not using a gyro but you will need to just get there. Once you get to the speeds that you want then you can disable it.

By using it you are just eliminating front end issues.

Right now you don't know whether the reason for sideways is generated from the front or the rear.

I have tried lowering the body but didn't help at all. The stock setup with medium springs and very tight at the back was the solution for me.

Right now I am at 106.1 but keeping the sucker on track is my issue.

My setup

Rpm a arms, castors ans bearing carriers.

Everything elese is stock.

Jaco on the front Ipanema in the back with 17mm.

MM 2200 with 30t pinion and 34t spur

Anxiously waiting for 35 and 38 pinions

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[PBO]

Umm, it was one crash. Crashes are a part of speed runs & I'm not sure isolating "sideways" is going to mitigate further crashes...it could have been a rock or a leaf?!

As a guess as to the cause of the crash though, I'd consider the significant negative lift the front wing generates - it's very aggressive. Also, the dual shocks at the rear may make the rear too stiff (& especially when combined with the forward wing) it may have traction trouble. This could account for wheel slip & the rear wanting to over take the front under acceleration??

[DasRustler]

Umm, it was one crash. Crashes are a part of speed runs & I'm not sure isolating "sideways" is going to mitigate further crashes...it could have been a rock or a leaf?!

As a guess as to the cause of the crash though, I'd consider the significant negative lift the front wing generates - it's very aggressive. Also, the dual shocks at the rear may make the rear too stiff (& especially when combined with the forward wing) it may have traction trouble. This could account for wheel slip & the rear wanting to over take the front under acceleration??

Very good point.

Experienced this when I have to much weight in the front.

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[Stevez26]

Umm, it was one crash. Crashes are a part of speed runs & I'm not sure isolating "sideways" is going to mitigate further crashes...it could have been a rock or a leaf?!

As a guess as to the cause of the crash though, I'd consider the significant negative lift the front wing generates - it's very aggressive. Also, the dual shocks at the rear may make the rear too stiff (& especially when combined with the forward wing) it may have traction trouble. This could account for wheel slip & the rear wanting to over take the front under acceleration??

the crash was caused by me giving a little bit to much throttle

that going sideways is new to me, it did not do that b4 i mounted those wheels

the shocks are adjustible from super soft to super stiff, so my shock set up wil not be the point at te moment

i did not drive with the aluninium one yet, but whith th black plastic one in the olde pictures..

i need those new front flm arms, put shims on the right places and then go from there

what gyro do you guys reccomet? is there a turiol or something

thx fore helping guys

[DasRustler]

The best I found was futaba g190. The only one that survives extream vibrations.

Pretty easy setup.

St servo > gyro > rx

You will have to play with the positioning depending on the servo brand you have.

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[rustlerMLB]

if i get the aluminum transmission cover will ut fit the mamba as log as it doesnt have a back/ engine case

[rustlerMLB]

this is gonna sound stupid but i m new to the traxxas forum... how do i starts a nex conversation

[Stevez26]

@rustlerMBL

I work with FLM stuff, if you go to their website (google: fastlane machine) and click on rustler you wil find all the pieces that fit the rustler, you see i mounted a 2200 kv mamba momster, it wil fit normal size and 1/8 scale size motors.

The also sell hex conversion kits that allows you to fit cheaper 1/8 buggy wheels, or belted pavement/tarmac wheels.

For the dual shocks you need a standoff. or just a big m3 bolt with a big spacer, but it is not neccesery, i had them in my toolbox, and i think it looks cool and it adjust better because my rustler is 500 grams more heavy then a stock rustler.

Just study my picts, you will find out how you can make thinks, the most difficult part to make was my custom gear cover lol

good luck

[Stevez26]

The best I found was futaba g190. The only one that survives extream vibrations.

Pretty easy setup.

St servo > gyro > rx

You will have to play with the positioning depending on the servo brand you have.

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can you post a picture of how you monted it? that would be great!

how do i wire this thing? to the reciever only?, i have no cleu lol

thanks!

[DasRustler]

can you post a picture of how you monted it? that would be great!

how do i wire this thing? to the reciever only?, i have no cleu lol

thanks!

The wire from the servo connects to the gyro. The output from gyro goes to the steering input of your receiver.

I mounted the gyro facing backwards on the stock esc mount.

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[rustlerMLB]

how do i start a new conversations

[rustlerMLB]

how do you mount the mamba esc to an aluminum chassis

[DasRustler]

how do you mount the mamba esc to an aluminum chassis

I haven't done it but the erevo mount should work fine with 2 self tapping long screws.

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[rustlerMLB]

whats the big gear cover stevez26 has

[Stevez26]

The wire from the servo connects to the gyro. The output from gyro goes to the steering input of your receiver.

I mounted the gyro facing backwards on the stock esc mount.

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thx for youre info, this should help me alot!!

[Stevez26]

whats the big gear cover stevez26 has

i have mounted the esc with double sided tape
the mod1 gearing and 24+ pinions are bigger that stock, youre stock gearcover or rpm cover wil not fit mod1 gearing.

you are asking alot of questions, time to build now....ill help you from where you starded

[rustlerMLB]

i was doing somme research and how come out of the 100 motors made by neu in the 1500 series the mamba 2200 kv is the best one i dont understand what does it have the othors dont

[DasRustler]

thx for youre info, this should help me alot!!

Glad I could help. One more thing use the thinnest possible double sided tape when mounting the gyro.
It can be mounted 4 ways since this model doesn't have a reverse switch. If you are using a Hitec servo my method should work fine. If not test counter steer before actually running the car by shaking the rear from side to side while having the front down.

Any chance of you making and selling the custom cover for the tranny?

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[Stevez26]

Glad I could help. One more thing use the thinnest possible double sided tape when mounting the gyro.
It can be mounted 4 ways since this model doesn't have a reverse switch. If you are using a Hitec servo my method should work fine. If not test counter steer before actually running the car by shaking the rear from side to side while having the front down.

Any chance of you making and selling the custom cover for the tranny?

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i have the stock digital 2075 traxxas servo, is that a good one for this gyro?
ill try to make another one, you kwon im from europe, schipping wil make it expensive....ill do some researtch

[DasRustler]

i have the stock digital 2075 traxxas servo, is that a good one for this gyro?
ill try to make another one, you kwon im from europe, schipping wil make it expensive....ill do some researtch

2075 is good but the hitec just holds the center for me better. Just check the counter steer before you mount it. If you need any help just ask.

Btw this is how mine looks like now.





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[rustlerMLB]

i was doing some research and how come out of the 100 motors made by neu in the 1500 series the 2200 kv is the best or the ,one they advertise. what makes it park of the mamba series one i dont understand, what does it have the others dont. there are so many options there are motors with more kv and less volts and vise versa so why is this one so great