Yes I know that, but I will just use the Losi shaft. Not the stub axle. The shaft will fit into the TRX stub axle. I want the losi length that TRX doesn't have.
Yes I know that, but I will just use the Losi shaft. Not the stub axle. The shaft will fit into the TRX stub axle. I want the losi length that TRX doesn't have.
15" WB HCR Mutant-Maxx Castle UE FLM 3906
I now have a very nice 8mm truetrac system that fully articulates in suspension. I did use the stub axles after all which nullifies what I said in the above post and when I post more pics I'll tell more about how I did it.
And I do now know that the Losi 8t 2.0 shafts will work on the front( or simply standard 3.3spec) suspension but will have to have spacers on the stub portion to take up the slack between the knuckle and the hex adapter. Even up to 4mm possible.
And as an aside. I may just leave the front with the TRX shafts that I already have which work great on standard suspension.
-Zack
Hey Bentrocker, how is your truck doing? Thanks for letting me post on your thread. I should update my own build thread soon.
Last edited by Kcaz25; 03-25-2012 at 06:29 PM.
15" WB HCR Mutant-Maxx Castle UE FLM 3906
My maxx is working great.
So did you get the 8t stubs to work with the xxl cvds ?
How much longer are the xxl stubs compared to the 8t stubs ?
It would be really great if you could snap some pics.
Well it is confusing and I will get some pics up for sure by tuesday, BUT i did manage to get the 8t 2.0 shafts and stubs to work. not xxl
15" WB HCR Mutant-Maxx Castle UE FLM 3906
Finally I so sorry it took me soo long. Losi 8t 2.0 shafts and axles. (CVD) You must bore out the exterior bearing slot to 16mm and use a 16mmX8mm bearing. Also the part of the axle that connects to the shaft- so at the pivot section is 12.7 and everybody know that the traxxas equivalent is 12mm. You must turn this down from 12.7mm to 12mm. The best way to do this is to put the axle in a drill- as you would a drill bit. Get it turning and then use any number of things to turn it down as wisely as you can until it is either measured 12mm by calipers or will have a 12mm bearing slide over it. I used a dremel, sanding drum, and a drill.
AND unless you wish the stub axle to stick out 4mm you have to use a spacer like the one I made out of this red ring as seen in the pictures below. You must cut each of the ends off meaning you only need one per pair of cvds. And again this is specifically for the truetrack.
-Zack
15" WB HCR Mutant-Maxx Castle UE FLM 3906
Thats interesting, I like how you used the spacer on the inside of the knukle on the stub. Have you had a chance to take it out and bash it yet?
My new front t-bone showed up today. They replaced my last one that broke. Also had some goodies waiting after 4 weeks away from home .
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I was out bashing the other night and had a clicking noise in the front diff.
Managed to put a hole in one of my badlands.
We will see how well the ca glue holds up.
Stripped this on a jump.
A couple of bad quailty vids. Soon time for a new camera.
what bearings did you end up going with in the rear diff? i just had mine fail today and tear apart the rest of the diff. I don't want to go with stock bearings because they will probably just break again. ive been having the worst luck with the drivetrain on this beast. its getting very frustrating.
In the rear diff I went with AVID bearings metal shielded. I haven't had a bearing failure since.
So I spent the last couple days going over my truck getting ready for a good bash session this weekend. I removed my wing so that I could get the sc raptor body to fit.
Had to do a lot of trimming.
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I like it a lot
Great job !! Colors are well chosen and the body/tire setup gives to your maxx a unique style. Love it![]()
Won a new 2ch tqi with i-device dock on the bay lastnight for $44usd. I also have a new 2200kv to put in it for some speed runs, my buddy has a radar gun. Let the fun begin.
Nice build.
I'm a Rock n Rolla !