my tmaxx 4907 racer build!

[08kgraves]

Future parts i want for my race maxx

UE Thunder chassis if i can get my hands on one still....... if not FLM chassis then

FLM bulkheads not sure if i want the combo bulks or the hybrid bulks though. what is the difference?

FLM shock Towers since they make wing mounts for it

RPM True Track rear arms

Proline Slipstream body possibly

savox 222oz servo for sttering

possibly a 4 shock setup from UE with there super shocks. What would i need for standoffs on FLM towers?

[TastesLikeChicken]

I see UE Thunder chassis' listed on ebay all the time. If you shop for one, be patient and be choosy.
At the bare minimum you'll need the chassis braces included with the chassis deck as they are
specifically made for this chassis. If you can score a full kit with the big block engine mounts,
servo mounts and front/rear driveshafts with your chassis, thats a huge bonus.

I cant figure out the difference between hybrid and combo bulks either. The concept
looks the same. My guess is the combo bulks allow you to use 1/8 scale buggy diffs, the hybrids accept
Tmaxx diffs? or vise versa.

As for shock towers, I believe the standoffs and screws are included. If they're not, I'm sure
the UE standoffs (which I've also seen on ebay), would work.

[08kgraves]

theres actually a certain member on here who was going to sell me one. and he wasnt advertising it so he should still have it. it was the plate, the braces, either small block or big block motor mount of my choice, two sets of servo mounts, a skid plate (not sure front or back)and a fuel tank. i cant remember the exact price im thinking he said like $120 or $130 for it all.

[davidemaxx]

any updates this thread was about to be kicked off the first page

[08kgraves]

lol, i feel loved.......... no nothing new. im out of college but i need to find a job still so i have no money to upgrade it at all.

you know you can just go to the bottom and change how far back you can view threads or just subscribe to the thread right? lol

[fantomaxx]

theres actually a certain member on here who was going to sell me one. and he wasnt advertising it so he should still have it. it was the plate, the braces, either small block or big block motor mount of my choice, two sets of servo mounts, a skid plate (not sure front or back)and a fuel tank. i cant remember the exact price im thinking he said like $120 or $130 for it all.

you should of ate that deal up! Dont buy just the chassis alone,you will never find the braces seperate.you will be amazed with the weight and quality of ue.

[2010450x]

I would kill to have those parts for my maxx. I mean mines no slouch now, but it could always get just a little bit better

[08kgraves]

last time i asked him he still had it all. hes not advertising any of it for sale. so its just a matter of getting a job and having the money to get it off him lol

[08kgraves]

ok so i was looking at lubecakes maxx layout and it gave me some ideas. i was going to put the violator tank up front straddling the driveshaft, have the throttle/brake servo off to the side of the trans for a direct pull setup, rx box in the location of the stock fuel tank and then have my hump pack over where the stock rx box goes. but after some measuring and what not it was going to pose not fitting well. mostly the fuel tank. so here is what i came up with.







all ive done to change things around is move the rx box to the back left corner of my maxx, and take my hump pack off the front of my shock tower and put it next to the steering servo on the inside edge.

i picked it up and let it balance on 2 screw drivers from the center of the front and rear bumpers and side to side it balances like perfectly. then i did the same on the sides to check the balance front to back and it might be a little rear heavy still but pretty good overall.



now the questions i have..............

1.) how can i hold my hump pack in place in this location?

2.) what size bit would i need to counter sink the screws for moving the rx box so there like they are factory?

[jekyll818]

I'd recommend moving the throttle/brake servo where you have the RX box and do away with that linkage. I don't know if they have trouble anymore but my linkage got bound up once and got stuck wide open.. after that I ordered the violator tank and moved my throttle servo.

[08kgraves]

was it on an older maxx? this is the new one which has a throttle return spring and everything on it. got any pics of one with that servo in the very back? all ive seen on a stock chassis is this setup

[/QUOTE]

[jekyll818]

Yeah, it was an older maxx, I don't how strong the return springs are on the ones but I don't see them being strong enough to pull it back if bound in the way mine did.. it took quite a bit of force for me to move it back by hand.

can't get a picture with the stock chassis as my old one has been scavenged for parts and is in pieces right now, I can get a pic of the predator chassis as the mount location is exactly where I'm talking about.

EDIT: here you go, basically same as what you posted but it's a little more direct to the throttle.

You do have to bend the brake rod a bit but it's not a problem. I'm not sure if this layout helps balance or anything but it looks clean on a stock chassis (with the violator tank where you have yours).

And yes, that is a paper towel zip-tied to the head... gotta love cold weather .

[08kgraves]

i think i know how it mounts on the predator chassis but i wouldnt mind seeing it anyways.

did you pivot post like spin to far and lock the linkage up? thats what it sounds like your describing. if so then the linkage was not adjusted properly all the way then. because i have an older short chassis maxx as well and it tried doing that to me when i was playing with the linkage so i had to re adjust it mostly the piece that connects to the carb slide though.

[jekyll818]

i think i know how it mounts on the predator chassis but i wouldnt mind seeing it anyways.

did you pivot post like spin to far and lock the linkage up? thats what it sounds like your describing. if so then the linkage was not adjusted properly all the way then. because i have an older short chassis maxx as well and it tried doing that to me when i was playing with the linkage so i had to re adjust it mostly the piece that connects to the carb slide though.

There isn't much difference between how it looks on the pred and the stock aside from the tank being farther back on the stock because it fits so well up to the tranny. I do need to get the old truck thrown together so if I manage that at a diligent time I'll get a pic for you.

and yeah that's what happened. Obviously it was user-error but it could have been avoided if they didn't use that system, but I digress.

Completely OT: I finally got to drive my truck with the novak steering servo I recommended to you a while back. The difference is awesome. Steering is more precise, I don't just turn full lock all the time now, but I'll probably have to turn the sensitivity down a bit... I am going to have to get a servo saver for it though as it has an over-sized splines or whatever (can't think of the name >.<) and I broke one of the solid plastic mounts it came with in like 10 minutes trying to "monster truck" over a spare tire for my moto trailer haha.

[454_72_4x4]

1.) how can i hold my hump pack in place in this location?

2.) what size bit would i need to counter sink the screws for moving the rx box so there like they are factory?

That's the same spot I'm thinking of mounting my hump pack. I've been thinking of a couple different options for a solid mount, but yet easy to remove. I'll post pics when/if I ever get somethin built.

To countersink the holes you should use an actual countersink bit, but a drill bit will work too. Just choose one a little bigger than the head of the screws and drill a little at a time until you get the fit you want. The cutting edges of drill bits are a different taper than most countersunk screws so that about the only way to get it neatly. I have even used 2 different sized bit to get a good fit. Use a big one to get the outside size right and a smaller one to get the center part deep enough to let the screw sit flush. I've since bought a countersink bit. It's alot easier... LOL

[08kgraves]

hey jeky,

where is your steering servo at? because my violator tank is all the way against and touching the transmission as well as the steering servo mount. so im thinking unless i move the tank like it is on lubecakes maxx in that pic i posted that the linkage would hit the tank and be in the way.




hey 454,

i got ahold of humayrayakongkinaon. thats the person i said that put one there already. But this is what he said, and said he would get some good pics for me later.

"the battery is held by a double sided tape on the chassis to batt and I use a t-maxx steering drag link to hold it in place, almost like the 1/1 car lol. I'll PM you with some pics, when I get a chance."

[08kgraves]

rx box is moved, figured out how to do the counter sink with what i had. first drill your 1/8" hole for the screw to go all the way through, then go at it a little with a 7/32 drill bit, switch up to a 1/4 bit and go just enough for the widest part of the screw head to fit. then if need be go back with the 7/32 bitt to get the depth until it is flush with the bottom of plate. heres the pics though.

metal shavings anyone?



first hole was a little bit to far away...... the rx box was strait with the chassis for that one though.........





the counter sunk holes, not to bad for not having an actual counter sink bit lol

[jekyll818]

my steering servo is behind the right front wheel up under my rx box, along with my hump pack. Using two bumper braces and a cut up piece of plastic to hold it up there haha. And yeah where your tank is it may rub, but bending the rod a little will work fine because where you have your tank is exactly where my stock chassis maxx is.

as far as batter pack location that always was a bit of an issue.. I kept it zip tied to the front shock tower but I really didn't like having it there. You might could take something like the links you have holding the tank on and cut up some thick plastic to secure it to the chassis like I have on my pred. I can get some pics of that tomorrow also if you like.

[08kgraves]

pics never hurt so please do post them. i might see what i can come up with but i think i know what your saying. it would be kind of like a battery hold down in a older 1:1 car. to bars that come up on the sides of battery then a bar or piece of flat that goes across with bolts on the other two bars to hold it tight.

[jekyll818]

yep you got the idea, except ideally the two bars will be slightly shorter than the pack so it puts a little tension on it.

[08kgraves]

well yeah, i know that just didnt think there was really a need to state it lol. but yeah i was looking and im not seeing any room really to mount posts around the battery pack though. so ill have to see lol

[08kgraves]

well aparently Great Assembly is back online so here is my dilema now. do i go for the extra strength of the 7075 bulks from them? or do i save some money and go with the FLM combo bulks with the built in diff case and the added support but made out of 6061? im thinking maybe just save the money since i rarely even break my plastic bulks. what do you guys think?

[08kgraves]

random....................... but i totally just realized that i started the racemaxx thread 2 days before my 21st birthday lol

[davidemaxx]

thats funny


i have broke the little mounting tabs for the shock tower off of my 3906 while jumping
i have been watching and am wanting to start moving stuff around on my chassis!

[08kgraves]

which mounting tabs? then shock holes or what? not sure what your talking about to be honest.

i really like where i have everything at now, it seems to be the best balance for weight distribution

[davidemaxx]

the mounting tabs that mount the shock tower to the bulk heads i have broke them off before

[08kgraves]

oh ok lol, im assuming this was on stock towers or bulks? or was it on something else?

[davidemaxx]

no it was stock but it was the newer style type of bulks (by newer style i mean not the original bulks)

[08kgraves]

so it was the grey ones then? i havent broke any of those really. unless you want to count blowing out the side of a screw hole to hold the skid plate on lol. i have broke the older black ones though. thats why im debating on the 6061 with built in diff case or just some 7075 bulks since GA is back. sthe 6061 is probably plenty strong enough for what i do as is plus a stronger design. and its a little cheaper. but for bulks that are twice as strong for only $30 more for the whole set of front and back and ive never had a problem with my diffs yet as is anyway.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

here it is grave, the way I mount my battery.



the first 3 pics were held by a steering drag link, one end screwed on to the servo mount and the other end with a zip tie.





this other 5 pics were held by a zip tie of how i did it.

[08kgraves]

Ahhhh, I see now. Thanks for getting the pics up here.

[08kgraves]

ok, got my battery pack held in place now. my zip tie was almost a little to short though lol. i had to stretch it a little to get it to fit

[08kgraves]

quick shock adjustment question...............

ok so im thinking about raising my maxx up some for regular use and not just for a track.

right now the upper mounts are all the way to the inside, and the lower mounts are all the way to the outside. up front i have rpm arms, and in the rear i have stock. so i was wondering since the control arms up front have 3 holes and the rears have 4 where should i put the rear? the front will be in the center mounting hole.

so should i put the rears at the inside center hole? or the outside center hole?

[jekyll818]

I would say inside center, having the rear slightly higher couldn't hurt. Just get a tiny screwdriver or rod or something and put through the mount holes to gauge how it would sit at each setting.

For the curious this is how I have my RX box and hump pack mounted.



The RX box is off center because I actually drilled a hole in it to run a screw to the post mount. I didn't trust double sided tape to hold it on there and one tab of my super awesome custom plastic retainer was broke so it helps eliminate that as being an issue. Ignore all the excess/extra zip-ties.. Can't find my scissors or anything else to trim the things...

[08kgraves]

ok, yeah ill find some pins to hold it in there to see how it looks.

[08kgraves]

[2010450x]

looks good man, I wonder how the handling will be without the little extra weight right on the front.

[08kgraves]

not sure lol, it seems extremely well balanced from front to back and side to side with this new setup though so looks promising. but the tires on it now are litterly good for like nothing other than a smooth dirt track lol. so i might have to throw some chevrons back on for bashing tires until i get me some badlands. and i need a high torque servo bad. my standard one went out so im using a throttle/brake servo for steering............. it doesnt work out the best alot lol

[2010450x]

Man the stock steering servo is pretty weak, I cant even imagine using a throttle/brake servo

[08kgraves]

well a while back something happend so i put it up for a while. dont remember if i was broke and couldnt afford fuel or what. but needles to say i finally went to go run it again then out of know where my steering servo doesnt work. it was all i had at the time and i couldnt afford a servo to. think it was my driveshaft went out on me. then i broke two more in a tank and a half of fuel after the trouble with servo lol