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  1. #1
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    76

    What is your upgrade experience?

    a) So.... the question is... has anyone used the 7033x, the alumininum caps with teflon coating? has the experience been good? In my experience, the axle carriers 7034, break at the drop of a hat and i'd be concerned about constantly losing 7033x everytime 7034 break.

    b) for users of upgraded knuckles, what is the most common part you break?
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    Here's the background, in case you care to read,

    I have concerns about breaking painful to replace things (chassis/bulkheads) when I have upgraded or tightened up others.

    I just replaced the front bulkheads again! I can't remember how many times I've done it, but between the rear and fronts, I think I've replaced the bulkheads 4 times and the chassis 2x. When I've broke the chassis, I've also broken the bulkheads.

    The good news is that the RPM turnbuckles have been great (3rd party upgrade to 7034- axle carrier). I've had the pivot balls pull through them without the knuckles being trashed. But i'm wondering if my upgrades have increased the chances of breaking the bulkheads. I'd much rather replace easy access parts, like the knuckles or A-arms, rather than busting through to the bulkheads and also risking the chasis. Not because I'm cheap but it takes a long time to replace the chassis or bulkhead. I don;t want to waste my summer on the bench. I have more money than time.

    my upgrades: 1)RPM knuckes, 2)7028x hollow steel balls, 3)7018x aluminum push rods, 4)7038x aluminum toe links, 5) the rear bumper from t-bone racing-without the main skid plate attatched, and 6) a crappy integy fan). 7)Oh yeah, I also did the dental floss mod with the steel balls, but I think i'm getting binding. I think I'd rather deal with slop- than binding so I will get around to getting rid of the dental floss.

    In my experince, slop in the steering and suspension is not that a big a deal. If I have crappy handling, making adjustments to toe-in/toe-out, ride height, or shocks work well. I have not noticed much diffrenece in handling when I have gotten rid of slop.

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    578
    A) one of the few upgrades I don't have lol, might have to get

    B) broke 1 front lower a arm but that's it now that I have rpm knuckles. Stock axle carriers were the first thing I broke.
    Rally SV2/4600 and fully loaded

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    438
    Re: RPM hubs... I'm using a bit of Pro Line Chain Lube in the pillow balls/sockets to eliminate a little of the stiction at extreme lock and also (hopefully) mitigate their tendency to get rusty. Also put some on the hollow balls, outer U joints, arm pins, and a few other things that were prone to rust. The carrier fluid evaporates, presumably leaving behind trace slick micro particles which "deters rust and moisture." We'll see... works well on my bikes.



    I have a GPM alu steering post, steering core bearings, steel hollow balls, and rocker bearings - all of which made the suspension and steering work better. The floss dials out the last bit of slop so the suspension settings can be more precise.

    Not sure if you were using the Glide dental tape; it's really the only stuff thin enough to work in this application as it's a single layer of teflon film. Just redid all of my toe ends and they're snug but the rods spin around the balls without any stiffness.




    That said, prior to this rebuild I did have a fair bit of slop creep back and it didn't make much nearly as much difference now that the suspension is dialed and my servo isn't full of ghosts.

    Probably go with some GTR shocks as both my sets of standard ones have some leaks. Only other upgrades I'm thinking of are possibly some alu pushrods and maybe rockers (just for sparkle really) and LiPo. Overall pretty impressed with this chassis' toughness and durability.
    Last edited by prototyp; 04-24-2011 at 07:07 PM.
    The prototype project.

  4. #4
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    76
    Thanks guys!

    @protyp, the chain lube sounds like a great idea. I noticed the binding in the knuckles at extremes but was unsure Hiw to resolve it. Regarding dental floss, i am using the Glide. Maybe I wrapped it too much or became haphazard with it. Maybe some of it is twisted which may make a difference.

    Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    438
    The glide has to be perfectly flat to be thin enough to work. The way mine was spooled in its package, some of it had folded over on itself and was too thick. Had to find sections that weren't folded... anyway three or four wraps is plenty for most toe links unless they're really worn.

    Ran a pack through the freshly-rebuilt car yesterday, man it's so smooth and crisp now. Will have to check on the pillow balls in a week or two to see if they've stayed smooth or gotten sticky again. TriFlow would be my next option but I don't care for the graphite mess it leaves behind...
    The prototype project.

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