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  1. #1
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    Post Protecting the Servo and aftermarket servos

    Hello guys, new member here. Im new in this rc business

    What I would like to know, from the more experienced members, is what we can do to protect the servo from frying. I have a rally vxl (ken block edition) for 2 weeks now and I already burned one servo.

    I have searched in this forum + the internet but I couldn’t find a complete guide for this

    So far what I have gathered is

    1) Keep the steering expo to around 50%
    2) Do not over tighten the Pivot balls to make sure there is no binding with the knuckles, while turning the wheels
    3) You can also achieve the above with reprogramming the steering end points
    4) Do not over tighten the screw on the horn
    5) Avoid big jumps and before it lands turn the wheels or press full throttle

    Do you have any more suggestions? You can also provide some photos
    Also any good aftermarket servos?
    Did you need to modify sth and what?

    Thanks in advance for your responses

  2. #2
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    Just a point of clarification for you or anyone else reading this. When you say over tightening the pivot balls in my experience that is usually referring to aftermarket knuckles like rpm or HR and tightening the adjustment that holds the pivot ball itself and not screwing the pivot balls into the a arms.

    I say this because HR knuckles fried my servo. The only other thing I can add is if your wheels stop turning don't crank the steering wheel to the other side so your servo is fighting it. Just turn it off and figure out what the problem is hopefully before you lost the servo.
    Rally SV2/4600 and fully loaded

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    I think the best way to ensure you have no binding in the system is to disconnect the servo arm, and make sure the wheels turn freely... that way you know the servo isnt being overworked. With that said, burning out a servo is not a really common problem on a rally in particular. Its not really overworked in this application. If your buring out servos or stripping gears you have some other problem causing it so find that problem and you may solve the servo problem too.
    Pede, Summit,
    ERBE, Rally,
    Motley Crew, 1SQ

  4. #4
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pavmentsurfer View Post
    I think the best way to ensure you have no binding in the system is to disconnect the servo arm, and make sure the wheels turn freely... that way you know the servo isnt being overworked. With that said, burning out a servo is not a really common problem on a rally in particular. Its not really overworked in this application. If your buring out servos or stripping gears you have some other problem causing it so find that problem and you may solve the servo problem too.
    Agreed. Anytime I remove the pivot balls from the carriers, when they go back in and I tighten down the caps I leave the pivot balls loose and continually move them around so there is no slop but yet are still loose. When I switched to RPM carriers I did this and it works great where there is no excess movement but they move freely. I had also installed steel hallow balls and bearings all over the place. Now I have to learn how to set the expo and will probably have a spare servo just in case this one goes.
    The Super Derecho

  5. #5
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    Also make sure to actuate the a arms up and down so you check the full range of motion on the pivot balls
    Rally SV2/4600 and fully loaded

  6. #6
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    I've been running dual servos. I stripped the gears on one. But that was due to a crash.


    Driving is not a leisure time activity.
    Driving is not a leisure time activity.

  7. #7
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    I am new to RC driving as well. I have the Ken Block fiesta and I am burning out servos left and right. It's starting to cost me a lot of money at $35 a pop. I've burnt out 3 Traxxas stock servos and one HiTEC HS-82MG. I got the HiTEC as an experiment and it was burnt out as well within a few days. Traxxas has replaced my Transmitter and Receiver as well, trying to find the problem. My pivot balls are loose and I make sure of this every time I take the car for a spin cause I have the GH Racing axle Carriers and I'm constantly monitoring the play in the stearing. I use the Traxxas(red) ajustable toe links and i upgraded to an aluminum steering arm I got from thetoyz.com. In all I have spent a little over $1900 in the car so I cant just give up at this point. The only thing that is left to replace is the ESC which Traxxas has sent to me. I hope this is the issue. Is there a chance that maybe the ESC is sending to much power to the Receiver causing the only thing I have pluged in(the servo) to burn out? Could it be the amount of power my Batteries produce? I thought the ESC regulates the amount of volts that goes to the receiver. I use Parallel Hyperion 3s Lipo 1600 MaH. Electronicly, I haven't changed a thing to the KB. The LED light kit and 3" cooling fan are all 12v and running seperatly on a Hyperion 3s Lipo 120 MaH. I'm so frustrated with this being this is my first RC car. Can anyone help?
    Ken Block Fiesta/ Parallel 3s Lipo

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    There is no way you spent $1900 on a rally... you could replace every part on the car with the most expensive parts 2 times over and not spend $1900, including upgrading all the electronics. I do believe youve spent alot... we all have... but servos should not just burn out. If youve gone through 4 servos already something else is WRONG.

    If your burning out non traxxas servos id say you have a power regulation problem as your already going to try to fix with a new ESC. It is true, the ESC does regulate the power going to the RX and on to the servo. Many of us run 3S (parallel or single pack, doesnt matter) with no issues. So, hopefully you get the new ESC in and that solves the problem.
    Pede, Summit,
    ERBE, Rally,
    Motley Crew, 1SQ

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Take it easy on the guy... probably typed and extra "0"

    Even if not, I bet he's frustrated. I would be.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  10. #10
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    Nope... No extra "0" added. Im actually just shy of $2000. My wife is deployed and I needed a hobby to do. I kinda went overboard with it but its addicting. Its actually pretty easy to spend that much. I got sick of replacing the stock bulkheads, suspension arms, axle carriers, and a few other parts so I went all out. Just about everything is aluminum with a few titanium parts. The aluminum bulkheads alone costed $104 for front and rear. Most of the money I spent was on thetoyz.com. Check it out if you havent. I had the chassis custom painted rally green... looks pretty cool. Putting it next to a stock KB you wouldnt recognize it. Believe it or not I've gotten it up to 101 mph clocked by my neighbor cop. I focused on speed first, doing some gearing and battery adjustments and then worked on look. Check out my first run... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QsTFWq1dz9E . How do I post Pictures of the car? I'm new to this. Its one of a kind. Thanks for the heads up on the ESC. I really hope getting this new one solves my problem.
    Ken Block Fiesta/ Parallel 3s Lipo

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Need to load on to a site like Flikr and then use the "Insert Image" button on this forum to insert the web location of the picture.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  12. #12
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    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-01-2011 at 09:31 PM. Reason: merge
    Ken Block Fiesta/ Parallel 3s Lipo

  13. #13
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    One user had a good suggestion to disconnect the servo, and turn the wheels by hand. The should move freely and not bind. Check with different shock compression too. You can also try limiting the steering end points by setting that on the transmitter.


    Driving is not a leisure time activity.
    Driving is not a leisure time activity.

  14. #14
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    I think I've tried disconnecting and rotating the axle carriers more times then I can count due to constant cleaning to the aluminum ones I have on there building up with a thin layer of dirt every 5 runs. I'm pretty good at keeping them clean and moving freely. I havent adjusted the Shocks much nor have I set the end points on the transmitter. I will try that and keep my fingers crossed. If this problem doesn't get solved after I throw the new ESC in, do some shock adjustments, set the end points (which seemed fine), and for kicks add a 6v safety fuse between the ESC and receiver since there is no battery eliminator circuit(BEC), I have been debating on just getting a new Fiesta and put only the important/needed upgrades in it; ie... the aluminum Bulkheads and chassis braces to support my driving technique. Keeping it simple. The car right now weighs, I'm guessing around 3-5 lbs with all the upgrades and add-ons. Maybe its too much for the servos. Maybe I need a stronger one to account for the weight. I've thought about trying a servo with a higher torque, maybe 100 oz or (2)100 oz servos but I haven't had much luck finding any that fit. I did install 2 servos once before though and one burnt out followed by the other one a few weeks later. I don't understand why I see on all these videos on youtube where people plug gyros, multiple fans, lights, and all types of crap in there receivers and they work fine, when I'm over here dropping big money tricking out the apperience of the car and burning out servos... the one and only thing I've kept stock or seperate from the 12v lights and cooling fan (running off a seperate power source) is the stock electronics. Thanks for the tips. As you can see, I'm new to the RC community but I'm learning new things everyday thanks to guys. Soon I'll probably know more about RC cars then my real car. Thanks again and I'll post after I try some of these suggestions out.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-01-2011 at 09:32 PM.
    Ken Block Fiesta/ Parallel 3s Lipo

  15. #15
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    What is that orange thing between two front shocks? Is that a chassis brace? And is there one mounted on the back as well?
    Slash VXL
    Rally VXL
    Axial SCX10

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