Stub Axle replacements

[Rigger]

Have had my used Rustler VXL for a few months, and just started running lipo and have since blown both stub axles out. Not the standard wear and tear break at the ball, but tore out the axle pin from the plastic. Looked around online for a little while but don't see an alternative product out there that may hold up better to the torque.
I know I have a torque limiter built in, but what's the fun in that?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[Hemi-Head]

I know I have a torque limiter built in, but what's the fun in that?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

If you don't get that thing set it isn't going to matter what you put in there it wiil break something somewhere. Tranny gears next would be my guess! I set mine pretty tight. About 1/3-1/4 out. I think that slash stubs and axles will work and they are a little beefier than the rustlers'. Look at the exploded view on the products page on here to make sure which model uses the same size bearing and go with that one.

[SCAPEGOAT]

I know I have a torque limiter built in, but what's the fun in that?

You're right, having your day cut short because of broken parts is much more fun.

If you don't get that thing set it isn't going to matter what you put in there it wiil break something somewhere.

Amen.

[Rigger]

You're right, having your day cut short because of broken parts is much more fun.


Amen.

I do have my limiter opened up about a 1/3 of a turn. I just figured that was very tight. I didnt know anyone running this car for a point of reference. With that, does anyone have a suggestion that's relavant and not just sarcasm.
BTW scapegoat your useless post is why I hate forums for the most part.

[dcsally97]

What size Lipo are you running? I use the Slash 4x4 rear shafts, they are pretty beefy. I would post pics, but photobucket is down.

[Hemi-Head]

I thought mine was bad when I had to tighten it down as far as I did but I asked and found out that alot of folks had to do the same thing. I think the trick is to find the sweet spot where it will slip when it gets binded. Like when landing a jump on the power etc. If you broke a stub I would back off another 1/16 of a turn. That little will make a difference. The Slash Axles are bigger but check the clearance. You may have to use the top hole on one side or the other. I wasn't trying to be sarcastic at you just trying to help. Hope I did.

[dcsally97]

I had to cut the gear cover some and I have the rear carriers mounted in the bottom hole to use the Slash 4x4 shafts. As far as the spur on mine I use the stock 4 way nut tool and tighten til the spur nut is bottomed out, then rotate the spur so the sides of the tool are straight up and down. I then back the nut off 1/4 of a turn. I run a 9.6v ProMatch NiMH battery, I'm sure the same would be advised with LiPo.

[Rigger]

I use the stock 4 way nut tool and tighten til the spur nut is bottomed out, then rotate the spur so the sides of the tool are straight up and down. I then back the nut off 1/4 of a turn.

That's a very good method. I will definitely put that one to use. Running 2S 5000MAH batts now since the cost isn't that much more than 7 cell NiMh and the power curve stays so much flatter for so much longer.

[Rigger]

I wasn't trying to be sarcastic at you just trying to help. Hope I did.

Hemi-Head that comment was not directed at you at all. Sarcasm in the form of advice (which was your first response) is helpful and funny at the same time, but a reply just to be a sinical chump (SCAPEGOAT) is a waste of my time and everyone elses who was reading the thread to get information. Thanks for your help and I will be looking into the Slash Axles as an alternative if I can't get it fixed with dialing in the slipper as suggested.

[dcsally97]

As promised here is my pic.

[Rigger]

dcsally97: They look like they belong there. I just figured it would look overly beefy, but it doesn't. Thanks for the pic. Very helpful.
Which rear carriers are you running there? Are those RPM?

[dcsally97]

No problem. Like I said, I had to trim some of the gear cover, and the rear carriers need to be mounted in the lower hole. The carriers might be a result of running the Protrac suspension, so try it out if you have stock or RPM arms.

[SCAPEGOAT]

Rigger - Yes, I was being sarcastic, but there was a reason: It seems that where ever you go, there's no shortage of people who think a properly adjusted slipper is "lame" and that wheelies are too "awesome" to keep the slipper anywhere but locked down. These are the same people who can't figure out why they're shredding axles, or won't listen to advice on how to tune/drive their trucks and think the only solution is stronger axles because of perceived flaws with the stock ones. Threads about axles pop up all the time, and more often than not, the complaints come from people who haven't fine-tuned their slipper or are doing reckless things like landing from jumps under power. With that said, with a comment like the one I quoted you on (and the fact that you had yet to say you had the slipper backed off a little) maybe you can at least understand where I was coming from - even if you still disagree, and even if you're not one of those people.

I know a lot of people have experimented with different setups by using third-party parts and/or parts from different trucks. If that's the route you choose to take, that's great, and I sincerely hope you find a solution that works for you. However, one important thing to keep in mind is that there are many of us who run stock Rustler axles without issues. They are not too weak to handle VXL power, they are not low quality. Understand that with the right setup, you can get a lot of good mileage out of the stock parts.

Small adjustments to the slipper can make a big difference. Whenever I need to disassemble/reassemble the clutch components, I always start with it pretty loose, like 3/4 turn out, then gradually tighten it in small increments until I reach the "sweet spot" - which is different for everyone. It's a fine line of not having it too loose - as an overly loose slipper can literally melt things - or too tight, where even small doses of throttle would bring the front end up and cause extra stress to the drive train. Again, while I think the stock axles are plenty strong, they are the "weak link" in the drive line, but with the torque these motors produce, IMO you want one of the links in the chain to have a little give.

Another thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is the ride height of your truck. Spring spacers and the different holes on the suspension arms where you mount the shocks change the geometry of the truck. The straighter the axles are, meaning the more they are parallel with the ground, the less stress they'll be subjected to. If, for your uses, you can get away with lowering the truck just a bit, you'll have happier axles.

I have a Rustler I use strictly off road, and I have the ride height jacked sky high, meaning the axles are at extreme angles. They wear faster than they would at stock or lowered ride height, and I have actually broken one, but I fully understand and accept this as a consequence of the setup I choose to use. The yokes on my lowered street Rustler are the original parts, and are hardly showing any signs of wear after a year and a half of 3S abuse. It's all in the setup!