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  1. #201
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    Al I found 2 nuts that will make that ofna clutch work ones the M2C and one is another brand but it comes with more stuff than needed. I may just order up the nut from M2C and give it a shot. The trans will have to move forward but you know what that gives room for the air filter to not hit the spur gear.
    Cads, Insane RC, PWC,and BOAT CORNUCOPIA

  2. #202
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    I gave the eighth scale clutch a try on the Picco Maxx, no way with out moving the tranny, so the M2C is on, it's a nice setup with 3 different spring choices, I went black, the stiffest. The new HPI ribbed side blow is on and needs a front support but I'm out of time for tonight, couple of pics.

    [IMG][/IMG]
    M2C Vented 40mm Flywheel and shoes.

    [IMG][/IMG]
    This is the eighth scale HPI Flywheel with ofna fiber shoes, tried this with an 18 tooth bell and a 16, no way, I'm not going to drill the Carbon Fiber chassis for this, the move is too small, I may try it on the stocker alloy chassis, for the 28 it was a 5/16 move forward, this is missing by an 1/8 to 3/16, I'm more concerned with ending up with a slotted hole, the more I think about it the M2C clutch is the soluation for both Maxx mills.

    [IMG][/IMG]
    Side blow pipe, this is a low to mid range pipe, designed for torque, and torque is what these tires want. No time to fool around with the Mashers for the stocker.
    15 IS Enough, Time to thin down the fleet some.

  3. #203
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    Just a quick note on taping tires, side by side tape with bead locks won't cut it, the double row won't let you get the second bead lock on, Just did 2 of the Mashers with a single row, rears, figured I'd try a double row for the fronts, where most of the ballooning takes place. The double row just wont let you seat the grove, you may be able to do it with a glued tire, one row of Gorrilla will do the trick.
    15 IS Enough, Time to thin down the fleet some.

  4. #204
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    do 2 rolls and you will be very happy with it. 1 roll is not enough. 2 stops most of the balloning. try it out with 2...im telling you your gonna like it
    Last edited by ToXiC MeRv; 05-18-2011 at 07:38 PM.
    Hows that nitro taste on your electric?

  5. #205
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    They just can't be side by side bro, too wide, for a bead lock anyway, if I over lap the roll by an inch in the middle I think it will work, the gorilla tape is so thick if your to close to the sidewall there is just no getting the tire into the groove. You can get one side but the second side won't go. I'm working on the last two now while watching the hockey game. Don't mind messing with tires in my easy chair.
    15 IS Enough, Time to thin down the fleet some.

  6. #206
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    hel Al, i have a ths rear pipe on my revo, would going to a side pipe give a noticeable increase in power?

  7. #207
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    jee wizz Al, gotta always be gettin the cool edit! Love the way that pipe looks!

  8. #208
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    just read your post in another thred re: the side pipe vs rear pipe so never mind

  9. #209
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    Mashers, Proline Bead locks, test em out tomorrow.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]
    15 IS Enough, Time to thin down the fleet some.

  10. #210
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    Did you put them on backwards, and did you get my txt?
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  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by insanity View Post
    Did you put them on backwards, and did you get my txt?
    No on the text, I could have them on backwards, just slapped them on to get a pic.
    15 IS Enough, Time to thin down the fleet some.

  12. #212
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    Gotta crack the tranny open on the CF chassis, something just let go during a beating on the track down back, prob the primary shaft, if that's the case I'm wondering if there is an upgrade for that shaft, this will be two of them in a month, maybe I need to change my driving style.
    15 IS Enough, Time to thin down the fleet some.

  13. #213
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    Al got your message sorry I could not get ahold of you. What brought me to the conclusion slowly I put 1 and 1 and 1 together to get the leaky front bearing. First were the high temps that I could not get to go down no matter what I tried. Second was the inability to tune again noting worked to keep a solid tune. Third was oil was all over the area under the carb I had cleaned that area the night before with some HPI nitro cleaner. So I knew that was fresh oil.

    Now this alarmed me just a bit so I tore it down and the piston, sleeve, and con rod look great. The sleeve is showing some wear but I think that would be normal pinch is still tight enough to push the sleeve out of the case without using anything to block the piston. After that all checked out I scratched my head and thought now what would cause that and an air leak was the first thing that popped in my head.

    I filled my sink with some soapy water and grabbed some spare fuel line I use to prime the engine. I plugged the carb and exhaust port submerged it and blew in the line. Sure enough a massive air leak came from the front bearing without having to blow hard. It looked like it was leaking enough to cause the issues I was having.

    So to answer your other question about your red dot that you think you fried leak test it and let us know what’s up. I will probably be getting some avid ceramics for it because after I talked to OFNA and I bought it off ebay it didn’t sound like they would honor the warranty…
    Cads, Insane RC, PWC,and BOAT CORNUCOPIA

  14. #214
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    Inny sorry to hear your news, that really sucks, the red dot was acting the same way before the rod went, if I were to mess with it (highly unlikly) it would need that bearing for sure. That's the bearing you need to heat up the block to get out right? The only reason I would put effort into that mill would be for the experience of doing it. And right now work is way to busy to mess with that now. Your issue has me concerned with the 2 Maxx's I'm running now, what causes this bearing to go? You can't have much more than a gallon of fuel thru that mill right. I'm going to give Robin a call and pick his brain a bit. I'm bummed for ya bro. Catch up with you on the phone.

    Quote Originally Posted by insanity View Post
    Al got your message sorry I could not get ahold of you. What brought me to the conclusion slowly I put 1 and 1 and 1 together to get the leaky front bearing. First were the high temps that I could not get to go down no matter what I tried. Second was the inability to tune again noting worked to keep a solid tune. Third was oil was all over the area under the carb I had cleaned that area the night before with some HPI nitro cleaner. So I knew that was fresh oil.

    Now this alarmed me just a bit so I tore it down and the piston, sleeve, and con rod look great. The sleeve is showing some wear but I think that would be normal pinch is still tight enough to push the sleeve out of the case without using anything to block the piston. After that all checked out I scratched my head and thought now what would cause that and an air leak was the first thing that popped in my head.

    I filled my sink with some soapy water and grabbed some spare fuel line I use to prime the engine. I plugged the carb and exhaust port submerged it and blew in the line. Sure enough a massive air leak came from the front bearing without having to blow hard. It looked like it was leaking enough to cause the issues I was having.

    So to answer your other question about your red dot that you think you fried leak test it and let us know what’s up. I will probably be getting some avid ceramics for it because after I talked to OFNA and I bought it off ebay it didn’t sound like they would honor the warranty…
    15 IS Enough, Time to thin down the fleet some.

  15. #215
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    couple things could cause the bearing to go..

    1) just bad quality from the factory
    2) time
    3) to rich a setting well cause the from bearing to go
    4) running in sandy conditions

  16. #216
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    Al you have to heat up the block for both bearings to come out. The inner will come out with a tap on the table and the outer with a tap from a dowel rod.

    I have 3 quarts through it, so I would say the rich setting while break in or bad quality from factory.
    Cads, Insane RC, PWC,and BOAT CORNUCOPIA

  17. #217
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    Good grief, they tell ya to run it rich during break in, I kept both of mine fat till the pinch eased like Robin said and I'm into one of them for a couple of gallons anyway, at least. That's kind of bull that Ofna won't back the motor due to ebay but i guess how do they know if it's new or not. I guess that alone is a lesson to be learned from this. Still sucks.

    Quote Originally Posted by insanity View Post
    Al you have to heat up the block for both bearings to come out. The inner will come out with a tap on the table and the outer with a tap from a dowel rod.

    I have 3 quarts through it, so I would say the rich setting while break in or bad quality from factory.
    15 IS Enough, Time to thin down the fleet some.

  18. #218
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    Well who’s to say what killed it not pointing fingers. I leak tested it when I got it and not even a bubble. I don’t know what OFNAs deal is but I think I’m not even going to deal with it. For all I know it could have just been that guy. Also I can have it back up and running next week as opposed to how long it will take to ship it California them check it and then back.
    Cads, Insane RC, PWC,and BOAT CORNUCOPIA

  19. #219
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    Oh so now you actually got mashers. so mashers, trenchers, and moabs. cool. wow inny that sucks about the air leak in the bearing. sorry ive been on vacatrion so have not seen the thread
    Hows that nitro taste on your electric?

  20. #220
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    Yep thanks to you Merv, the picture didn't do it for me but when I saw them in person and knowing that they are going to be hard to get I said hook me up.. Thanks for pointing that out for me, now we just have to fix the problem turning them, lol big difference between a taped and non taped tire,, the taped tires hook up and put a ton of stress on the tranny, as pointed out in other threads I stripped 2 gears this weekend, the first gear side of the stack, I'm done with that, Robinson Racing gears will now be in all 3 revos. Breaking stuff from running into things is ok by me, breaking stuff just putting down the hammer is unexceptable, we will fix this once and for all. Welcome back Merv.

    Quote Originally Posted by ToXiC MeRv View Post
    Oh so now you actually got mashers. so mashers, trenchers, and moabs. cool. wow inny that sucks about the air leak in the bearing. sorry ive been on vacatrion so have not seen the thread
    15 IS Enough, Time to thin down the fleet some.

  21. #221
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    Man i seriously need a job. my LHS needs some employees and i am one of the only people that is really interested in the hobby and visits the shop alot. i have to be 14 though so i gotta wait till september. They have a set of trenchers and a whole wall of 40 series wheels that are just screaming at me to take them. gotta sell some more parts. i found out my whole slipper assembly is just ruined...peices broken and all sorts of stuff. and i gotta get Another throttle linkage because the little arm that comes with it thats on the engine mount snapped off. But ive got too many extra parts for cars i dont have anymore anyways so gives me a chance to clean up a bit. Have fun with those mashers. by the time you are done buying tires im gonna be buying those 23mm wheels from you lol. you will have a stack of just those wheels haha.
    Hows that nitro taste on your electric?

  22. #222
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    Tried Cam's way of hooking up the pipe on the truck that has that same header, I like it, with the front secured the spring wasn't wacked out to bad, the header is up nice and tight to the block, I like having it out of the way of the linkage and I can get my new era roll bar back on. The other two have the header that angles for a tighter turn, they won't run low, get right into the pull starter, but that's ok they are setup nice up top. I did stick a standard ratio gear set in with a new first gear, Merv mentioned the shape of the first gear after having the driver shreaded like it was and you could see wear on the gear. I just got done beating them like bad dogs to see how they would hold up. Video is uploading, the grass is wet so it's not a true test but it took the beating, the shift was nice and it just kept tilling thru second gear. And just to cause stress channel 2 on the reciever decided to crap out, thought it was the servo, nope worked fine in the steering channel. For some reason the throttle started to hang at the end, might be time for a good carb cleaning and retune
    15 IS Enough, Time to thin down the fleet some.

  23. #223
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    Today little beat down, the standard ratio and new first gear held up, but it's on wet grass, the real test will come later. The lowered chassis really ride nice and keep the front on the ground.


    15 IS Enough, Time to thin down the fleet some.

  24. #224
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    Looks Awesome Al...lookin like a sweet set up for sure!

  25. #225
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    Al what gearing are you liking so far? I have some wide open spaces to run so I think I could benefit from the wide to get my top end speed runs I like. Then on the flip I also like the ability to get it up to speed fast for those tight places. I will probably end up with some RR gears before long.
    Cads, Insane RC, PWC,and BOAT CORNUCOPIA

  26. #226
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    inny I only have a few tanks on the standard set, right now it's a 16/37, takes off like a rocket, hit's second pretty fast and I run out of space, lol, but on the oval down back it worked out nice, it's real rough so i'm constantly on and off the throttle hard so that lower second gear isn't bad for me, and with the tires it's working out real good. The wide set will work fine with the big tires with a 16/38, we'll see how it works out, these big tires taped up are like night and day to figure out, when you're pizza cutting theres no strain on any gears, with those big mothers staying flat and grabbing the ground it's not really that surprising to be eating plastic gears. I'll try to get some video tomorrow of the two different setups.
    15 IS Enough, Time to thin down the fleet some.

  27. #227
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    Hitting a bad spell here with rx's for some reason, lost the channel one at the beginning of the week, today while bashing on the new gear set the tekno cover came flying off and took the wire with it, well it left a half an inch, it still works on and off, worked enough so I didn't have to carry it back to the house. I think it's a sign, Fly Sky is calling, an rx is 48 bucks local, traxxas, so that's the tx kit and a second rx. It seems like a no brainer, who's running them? I need some good advise, it just seems to good to be true. Please set me straight.
    15 IS Enough, Time to thin down the fleet some.

  28. #228
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    Al if I didn't have a brand new traxxas 2.4 sitting here I think I would go for the Fly Sky. I've looked some stuff up and have heard nothing but good things about it. Never used one mind you but from where I'm sittin, for the money, it does seem like a no brainer

  29. #229
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    i just ordered the flysky. my 2.4 lost less then an inch of wire and would cut out ever 20 feet. if you need a reveiw of it here you go http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHV2OhN43Lo
    Hows that nitro taste on your electric?

  30. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by ToXiC MeRv View Post
    i just ordered the flysky. my 2.4 lost less then an inch of wire and would cut out ever 20 feet. if you need a reveiw of it here you go http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHV2OhN43Lo
    Where did you order it from? it looks like the only place that has extra rx is OKHobby, anybody done bussiness there, the places that carry it I've never even heard of.
    15 IS Enough, Time to thin down the fleet some.

  31. #231
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    http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-gt3b-carradio-lcd.html
    did a google search Al and this is what I found, google is your friend

  32. #232
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    ^^^ yeah thats where i ordered mine from. and al i will pm you where you can get receivers
    Hows that nitro taste on your electric?

  33. #233
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    Tm we's on da same page bro

  34. #234
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    nevermind al i cannot find the cheap hk receivers. but the replacement rx for this goes from 7-11 bucks. ive seen reveiws and people say it our performs their expensive futaba radios
    Hows that nitro taste on your electric?

  35. #235
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    it's ordered, we'll give it a try, hopefully it comes with the cd manual, bunch of complaints under that review of people not getting the disk, but there is a place to download the manual, I'll get that now and take a look.
    15 IS Enough, Time to thin down the fleet some.

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by Al Morancy View Post
    it's ordered, we'll give it a try, hopefully it comes with the cd manual, bunch of complaints under that review of people not getting the disk, but there is a place to download the manual, I'll get that now and take a look.
    would you mind posting the link to that manual? just in case mine doesnt come with it either. the setup is pretty straight forward
    Hows that nitro taste on your electric?

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by ToXiC MeRv View Post
    would you mind posting the link to that manual? just in case mine doesnt come with it either. the setup is pretty straight forward
    Merv here is the manual:http://site.hobbypartz.com/manual/FS-GT3B-Manual.pdf
    There are no stupid questions, just stupid people.

  38. #238
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    thankyou lots.
    Hows that nitro taste on your electric?

  39. #239
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    You r wellcome!
    There are no stupid questions, just stupid people.

  40. #240
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    Nice work dany, thanks
    15 IS Enough, Time to thin down the fleet some.

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