Al's Revo's & OCD, ADD, and many other issues.

[Al Morancy]

Al Pm me your email addy.. i have an excel file that can help you calculate your top speed.. well at least close to it... i had it a long time now.. and i'm just sharing to the new breed of revo fans

lol KG, you sure you don't want to send me a virus, lol What's a new breed mean, Addicted lol it's sent bro.

[kgombe1]

LOL.. no virus.. new breed means you doing what we did and doing it right... LOL.. you got mail by the way...

[Al Morancy]

LOL.. no virus.. new breed means you doing what we did and doing it right... LOL.. you got mail by the way...

KG, that is so fnedit cool, I love it, Thank you so much, I will be fun to input my tire size and the rpm of my Piccos. Dude totally awesome, thank you for the very kind and appreciated words of encouragement. I'm old school too and in my work ethic and I've tried to bring that to my learnings in RC, bro I've only been at this sense Christmas, lol OCD man, but I love it, I love being in the shop, I like making things work better and better means lasting through an all out beating, the way I see it what good is a big motor if you can't get through an afternoon without eating something, I have Revo 1 at that level and I'm edit proud of it. Lol with the diff lock in that truck I need to learn how to handle it and retune the chassis for this new condition, I got a feeling I need to take out some camber from the rear, with the old tires I was at -3, these are not ballooning so I think I can get back to -1, I'm thinking I got some caster work to do on the front, maybe move the spacers or change pin locations, I'll try one at a time, maybe the front may want more camber that has always been at -1, with the added push from the back do you think going to -3 would help, right now it wants to do constant dougnuts, lol also I've had a firm spring in the front, would a softer spring help transfer weight to the front wheels better to grab more? That is the beauty of the revo we have all this adjustment, the XL doesn't offer this, but it takes a beating like nothing I've ever seen. Pm me with your thought if you get a chance, I'd love to hear your opnion, you've been locking rear ends for a long time and I bet you've been through all of this. Warm Regards,

Al

[kgombe1]

Locked Rear ends are fun in the dirt, no doubt.. but it doe shave its draw backs... the revo Diffs. are weak in comparison to other trucks and the transmission being plastic needs something to give.. upgrading the trans to robinson only helps so much... the pin that hold the gears on the shaft are also a weak point.... and even if you upgrade the pin.. the shafts could break also...

with a lock rear diff on the road if you have allot of traction you will push in the corners all day, on and off power.. sometimes even on the dirt .. but i can guarantee you will push off power all the time...

the way how the revo is built you need stiffer rear springs than front... and i usually run these colours... front/ rear

white/ green really blown out tracks on no higher the 35 weight oil
orange/ gold 500 mugen oil
green/ tan 500 mugen oil

with center diff i run 50k diff oil up front and 10k in the rear.. traxxas center diff always 500 or ofna diff lock.. with 1/8scale diff 10k or 15..

without center diff i run 30k or 50 up front and 10k to 30 k in the rear.. depending on track

3 degree toe in rear 1 degree out front (all the time)

2 to 3 degree of camber rear.. 1.5 to 3 on the front.. depending on track

ride height is the front drive shaft just above level and rear level.. again all the time... i use p2 rockers and middle holes in the suspension arms for the push rods... and to set right height make sure you articulate teh suspension vigorously and drop it from about 12 inches then look at it...

TIRES ARE 90% of setup...

but again the diff locks are fun on loose dirt and thats only when power through corners....

[honda95freek]

Kg nice info on the setup. My rig is really hard to keep in line. not a good thing when tryin to line up for a jump. any good way to get the camber set up with out using a camber gauge. sounds silly to ask but i dont have one and my back end of the rig is all off, just wondering for when i put it back together. Oh and Al, had to go a get another picco didn't you, lol. bro im feening for a picco right now but determined to get this baby 3.3 to run good, lol. have a good night bro, im off to work

[insanity]

I have this, I have seen the same one at sears for about the same price. It will suit your needs for camber.

[kgombe1]

nah dude.... i use a gauge ...

[amorancy]

Same here, camber gauge from Tower if I remember, less than 10 bucks I think.
Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk

[ToXiC MeRv]

Post some pictures up of those mashers! I wanna see em'

[Al Morancy]

KG, Awesome Post, Thank You, I'll soften up the front, set the toe on the front, I'm pretty much there on the camber, I'm all steel gears now, I'll put the center diff back to 500k, I have new seals for it so I need to get in there anyway.

Thanks again bro.

Locked Rear ends are fun in the dirt, no doubt.. but it doe shave its draw backs... the revo Diffs. are weak in comparison to other trucks and the transmission being plastic needs something to give.. upgrading the trans to robinson only helps so much... the pin that hold the gears on the shaft are also a weak point.... and even if you upgrade the pin.. the shafts could break also...

with a lock rear diff on the road if you have allot of traction you will push in the corners all day, on and off power.. sometimes even on the dirt .. but i can guarantee you will push off power all the time...

the way how the revo is built you need stiffer rear springs than front... and i usually run these colours... front/ rear

white/ green really blown out tracks on no higher the 35 weight oil
orange/ gold 500 mugen oil
green/ tan 500 mugen oil

with center diff i run 50k diff oil up front and 10k in the rear.. traxxas center diff always 500 or ofna diff lock.. with 1/8scale diff 10k or 15..

without center diff i run 30k or 50 up front and 10k to 30 k in the rear.. depending on track

3 degree toe in rear 1 degree out front (all the time)

2 to 3 degree of camber rear.. 1.5 to 3 on the front.. depending on track

ride height is the front drive shaft just above level and rear level.. again all the time... i use p2 rockers and middle holes in the suspension arms for the push rods... and to set right height make sure you articulate teh suspension vigorously and drop it from about 12 inches then look at it...

TIRES ARE 90% of setup...

but again the diff locks are fun on loose dirt and thats only when power through corners....

[Al Morancy]

Well I was tuning the chassis on the turbo revo with the diff lock, making good progress and the diff lock busted right at the pin connecting the shaft to the diff. I shouldn't have even messed with it till I put the center diff back in it. Just way to much power going to the wheels without the center diff. KG!!! You said you guys used to weld the rear diffs, what kinds of motors were you using then, is a 28 turbo putting to much on the diff or if I had the center diff in would it have handled it better? Thought. This diff lock didn't make a tank bro, maybe it's not a good idea for the 28, I'm not going to give up trying, I'll get another on and put it the .26 Maxx Revo with the stock tires. I had the HPI terra pins on it when it broke, they do hook up good on grass, maybe that just stressed it to much. lol I had some injections in my back yesterday, low back problems for years and I'm suppose to do stuff when I get home, not just sit there so I went out and messed with the trucks, still under whatever they gave me before they stabbed me. I guess my judgement was a bit off,, rammed the XL into the shed, first broken part on that the rear carrier where the tie rod hooks into it. So I move on to the Revo with the new Maxx in it, I guess I hadn't had enough yet and put that into the pool wall while cartwheeling, that got me to pack it up for the night,, drugs and RC don't go together very well, didn't break the revo on the pool hit, Thank You RPM.

[ToXiC MeRv]

Well I was tuning the chassis on the turbo revo with the diff lock, making good progress and the diff lock busted right at the pin connecting the shaft to the diff. I shouldn't have even messed with it till I put the center diff back in it. Just way to much power going to the wheels without the center diff. KG!!! You said you guys used to weld the rear diffs, what kinds of motors were you using then, is a 28 turbo putting to much on the diff or if I had the center diff in would it have handled it better? Thought. This diff lock didn't make a tank bro, maybe it's not a good idea for the 28, I'm not going to give up trying, I'll get another on and put it the .26 Maxx Revo with the stock tires. I had the HPI terra pins on it when it broke, they do hook up good on grass, maybe that just stressed it to much. lol I had some injections in my back yesterday, low back problems for years and I'm suppose to do stuff when I get home, not just sit there so I went out and messed with the trucks, still under whatever they gave me before they stabbed me. I guess my judgement was a bit off,, rammed the XL into the shed, first broken part on that the rear carrier where the tie rod hooks into it. So I move on to the Revo with the new Maxx in it, I guess I hadn't had enough yet and put that into the pool wall while cartwheeling, that got me to pack it up for the night,, drugs and RC don't go together very well, didn't break the revo on the pool hit, Thank You RPM.

yeah putting it up was a good idea. with a locked dif you can not support that type of power...locked diffs are made for slower vehicles...you are gonna have too much parts breaking with the locked diff in my op

[Cknight]

Sorry Al...I was referring to my day's when I used to race Full size lol. We raced a '73 Pont ventura with a camaro 350 sb hobby stock class on a 1/4 mile dirt track. We welded the spyder gears to the axle shafts creating a posi, as well having the left rear tire 1-2 sizes smaller to help pull a tight left turn (Rule of dirt track racing >> Go hard>>>Turn left! ). The car is in constant drif nearly the whole way around the track
Figured the concept should be the same :\

[Cknight]

With all your vid's on the Picco engine, I may just have to add it to my list of supplies I need to get from the hobby store when I get to go (hopping to get there for next weekend). Also keeping an eye on Ebay for a rolling chassis for a second truck....yup i'm hooked lol.

[Al Morancy]

Sorry Al...I was referring to my day's when I used to race Full size lol. We raced a '73 Pont ventura with a camaro 350 sb hobby stock class on a 1/4 mile dirt track. We welded the spyder gears to the axle shafts creating a posi, as well having the left rear tire 1-2 sizes smaller to help pull a tight left turn (Rule of dirt track racing >> Go hard>>>Turn left! ). The car is in constant drif nearly the whole way around the track
Figured the concept should be the same :\

Well it was worth a good try, lol the traxxas diff lock in a 3.3 may be fine, I will try it again in the Maxx just to see if it will take it, it's fun to play with with posi for sure,

[Al Morancy]

Tiger, quick clip for you on the Maxx, I clip the power post at the end and pop the pivot balls out of the RPM carrier, I just got done boiling it and it's like new, kudos to RPM, a stock carrier would have snapped where the steering arm connects at the least on that hit. lol it's already back running. That is not the new Maxx either it's got at least 3 gallons thru it. All I'm really doing with this truck is beating the stock shafts to see how long they'll take it. All my other rigs have steel shafts, the .28 busted the stock shafts constantly. Running a center diff takes some of the pressure off the shafts opposed to just running forward only, running this mill with a stock tranny or forward only I'd be spending more time on my lid, or change the way I beat it, hope it's some what helpful to you.

[insanity]

Al have you seen the mod that you can press on the steel surounds from the platnium edition knuckles or the copper pipe over the carriers to stop them from poping out?

[kgombe1]

yea AL... we raced most the time.. and we used 18's for racing or the 3.3's.... when i had the big block in there it was for drag racing and although the center diff. helped to keep the front down.. it just was not cutting it for drag.... so e just set it up right and use traction control on the M11 to avoid pulling the fronts up... then we got the slayer trans.. which is geared higher so wheelies was not that common... but with the slayer trans you are stuck in 1st gear a little longer and the primary gear just could not handle the stress and would strip all the time... so we had to go with the robinson racing input gear.. and that was the only metal gear we used...

and we ran the Vspec... 28 had to much torque and we wanted lots of RPM for the 132f strip.. plus with the revo having a reduction geared tranny.. when it comes to big block torque was not really needed... because you could of pulled the front up with an 18.. so we went for the high reving Vspec which had lots of torque.. but we just geared it right with the slayer trans and it was perfect off the line and would shift about 35 to 40 feet in... on occasion it would pull teh front up in second but not to high just about an inch of the ground...beautiful thang

[insanity]

So what you are saying is a slayers center diff tossed into the revo trans will handled the torque better. I say the center diff because its like the only gears that I know of that are diffrent between the two.

[kgombe1]

their are more gears that are different in the slayer trans... we went through this already... the 2 gears the give you the final drive.... the one on the output shaft and the one that drives it are the same ratio in the revo trans... so they are 1:1.. in the slayer the gear on the output shaft is smaller giving it a .6:1 ratio i think.. if i remember correctly... even though first and second gear ratio's are the same as the revo it has another path to go through... in the revo calculating it did not matter because it was 1:1 but in the slayer it does.. i will get links to the gears i am talking about.... and by the way... if both trans were the same why would the center diff be different... think about that for a minute...

[insanity]

That was what I was referring to the first and second are the same and final is different. If you’re talking about a 4th set of internal gears then I missed that in the exploded views.

I just looked at the exploded views again now I see the difference in the case half.

[kgombe1]

you also need the slayer transmission case to fit the bigger gear for the output gears.... the final set off gears makes the final drive ration different..

revo
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHGG6&P=7

slayer

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ar-Set-23T-33T

you see the size difference .... also i could only get a good pict with the forward only picts

[insanity]

Ok on the same sheet of music now. I see the hump in the slayer trans that’s a significant difference in the half’s.

Would it really be worth wile to go through and get the parts needed to convert to the slayer trans. Or could a CB/spur combo achieve the same. I like the sound of a smooth take off, but I still like my top end, and snappy response.

[kgombe1]

CB/spur combo will not yield the same results.. as a matter of fact.. i was running 40/14 spur/cb.. with close ratio so i can get a decent acceleration....and the top end was still their.. the motor would have to run long to hear scream at top RPM's... keep in mind you may have to adjust the shift timing

[insanity]

Did you ever try some heavy tires with it like the trenchers? I may not be worth it for such a heavy rotating mass. I plan to try a 17/36 combo soon.

[kgombe1]

never.. i only race.. so i looked for racing tires...

[insanity]

I am trying to figure out what gearing I want so I will be playing with cb/spur to get the right acceleration and top end I want. That goes along with the first or second gears; the slayer gears give an entire new option.

[kgombe1]

yes it does.... but you cannot used the slayer gears if the tires you are using is of bigger diameter than stock revo gears... it will wear your clutch out and strip your first gear every time unless you upgrade them to steel.... and it just wouldn't perform right... keep in mind fellas only use this for high speed passes and drag races...not the regular running around in the back yard or construction site for hours at a time

[Al Morancy]

Good stuff KG, I was in the shop rebuilding the shocks on that stocker in the rear, watching the Bruins get killed, missed out on some great gear talk, love that edit, Inny those pivot balls coming out on a hit is good with me, it's better than something breaking, boiling them really works, they are right back to normal, now if they were popping out just bashing around that would be a different story, I boiled the one that popped out this winter and it's never done it again. KG I hadn't messed with the rear end of that stocker sense putting the Maxx in it, see how much it squated, I put a set of purple NE springs and some 45w oil, i'm out of 60w, the springs feel like a revo blue, maybe a little stiffer, that should transfer some of power to the front wheels now right? I left the front stock, the center diff in that rig is also stock 100k, next time it's opened up I'll fill that with 500k, it seems like the front tires are getting all the joy, the springs will get tested tomorrow, they should help. Great topic you guys. You rock KG, great info, thanks.

[kgombe1]

oh yeah 100 is waaaay to light for the center diff... the stiffer springs will help you wheelie and keep the car more level on take off.. also take the upper rear suspension arms and put them in the lower hole on the rear bulk head.. helps with steering and acceleration

[ToXiC MeRv]

so....you gonna show us those mashers yet? like what they look like just mounted on the truck?

[Al Morancy]

so....you gonna show us those mashers yet? like what they look like just mounted on the truck?

naaa I'm all done showing my junk, I'll keep my junk to myself. lol you said the mashers suck anyway

[Al Morancy]

The Maxxes should be happy, 2 M2C 40mm 3 shoe clutch kits just showed up, I'm thinking these may solve some issues with the bearings heating up, the flywheels are vented, the Hot Racing's are not, plus they are bigger and the starter box is back as an option if needed. Merv, I'll get something up on the Mashers, I'm heading to the Home Depot and getting a pencile screw gun, I think they run on lipo's and a nice bit set, there are a bunch of things a power driver would be good for when tearing down these rigs but not a dewalt cordless, lol to big for this, the Mashers need to come apart and get a second row of tape, may even go side by side rows and one over the top. I love coming home to packages, theres work to be done.

[Al Morancy]

Quick clip of the Mashers and the stocker project, the stocker got 500K in the center diff, and stiffer rear springs, you'll see the rear springs will need to be softened up again because this thang wont stay down, the extra throttle opening up sure does help too. Same motors in both trucks, the mashers are heavier for sure, I think a big amount of the power difference is the side blow pipe compared to a THS rear blow. The mill in the red truck is newer, the black one will smoke it, the black one has the Hot Racing clutch, the red is a stocker clutch, it's getting a M2C 3 shoe that came today.

[insanity]

Looks like the mashers give just enough slide so you’re not always tipping over. I really need to get me a good pipe for mine.

[ToXiC MeRv]

Al those are not mashers. Those are pro-line moabs... http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rce=google_ext

These are mashers so wherever you bought those from they named them wrong http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEWT0&P=7

And for some reason the 3.8 moabs and 3.8 mashers arent even on proline's website anymore

[Al Morancy]

Looks like the mashers give just enough slide so you’re not always tipping over. I really need to get me a good pipe for mine.

To get a good gauge on the power difference I'm going to put the trencher on that stocker, that will equel out the weight, you cant really tell in a video but the maxx with the side blow is insane, the other one just feels restricted, I'm going to pickup one of those HPI side blows they have as a mod for the xl, I have a header for it. Another eighth scale motor saver filter too, it rocks the 28 it should make a difference over the stock filter on them now.

[Al Morancy]

Al those are not mashers. Those are pro-line moabs... http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rce=google_ext

These are mashers so wherever you bought those from they named them wrong http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEWT0&P=7

And for some reason the 3.8 moabs and 3.8 mashers arent even on proline's website anymore

Good catch Merv, the bag said Masher, cool I wouldn't have bought those tires anyway, awesome Moabs, lol now I need to edit the names on my video, lol who cares right, there a good cross tire for sure.

Thanks for setting me straight Merv, you're good at that.

[ToXiC MeRv]

no problem. Im not a fan of the mashers but i am a fan of the moabs. Good to know the trenchers and moabs are good tires. Yeah i correct people alot

[Al Morancy]

Well Merv, after seeing the Mashers in person I had to give them a try, got a good deal, the set of Mashers and the same set of Proline Bead locks for a hundred bucks, not bad, forty bucks off, the only other fun thing I picked up was an HPI Black ribbed side blow pipe for the Maxx, could have got a black header to match but had to restrain myself, got headers and colors aren't really important to me, After talking to Inny today he got me thinking about the eighth scale clutch, I know it wouldn't work with a 28 but it might with a 26, I will go try it out now.