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  1. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    When running my rally, I found 2s a little too powerful for consistent drifting, so I ran my 3s in training mode. In effect was running 1s. It brought the power down and helped with consistency in drifting, while still having plenty of get up and go if I geared up a little. Electronics ran much cooler also. Maybe this could be the answer with the merv axles? Just a thought...

    Where did you get the cage?
    I really like the "long term test" type thread!
    That's an interesting idea, because the motor runs at half speed, but if you gear up a little, you can still get some good speeds for lower temperatures. Maybe I'll have to try that sometime with my MERV, thanks for sharing!!
    Just accelerate, and only good will come.

  2. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    When running my rally, I found 2s a little too powerful for consistent drifting, so I ran my 3s in training mode. In effect was running 1s. It brought the power down and helped with consistency in drifting, while still having plenty of get up and go if I geared up a little. Electronics ran much cooler also. Maybe this could be the answer with the merv axles? Just a thought...

    Where did you get the cage?
    I really like the "long term test" type thread!
    integy makes the cage .
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  3. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by twisted View Post
    integy makes the cage .
    How durable is it? I've been looking for a roll cage that is sturdy for when my MERV flips over and lands on it's back after jumps.
    Just accelerate, and only good will come.

  4. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by E-RevoVXL View Post
    How durable is it? I've been looking for a roll cage that is sturdy for when my MERV flips over and lands on it's back after jumps.
    very...but heavy.
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  5. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by twisted View Post
    very...but heavy.
    Heavy enough to slow the truck down?
    Just accelerate, and only good will come.

  6. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by E-RevoVXL View Post
    Heavy enough to slow the truck down?
    not really but it makes it more top heavy
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  7. #127
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    what is the factory size pinion gear on the summit vxl 1/16? i'm looking to up my top speed a little, but not take away to much from the off of the line speed either, so I really need to find the right size gear that will allow me to take of almost as fast as i can now, but add as much to the top speed as possible while doing so, nothing to dramatic, it just seems like on the road it tops out a lot quicker than I want, and be able to take full advantage of the 3s 1500 mah lipo that i use when i'm running on road, off road that battery will eat parts, so i use ***** 2s 2200 and they do fine, but if anyone else has dealt with this then i need any suggestions i can get, so i don't ruin the acceleration, and get it to go a lot faster at the same time. so any help would be appreciated

  8. #128
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by horsepants View Post
    what is the factory size pinion gear on the summit vxl 1/16? i'm looking to up my top speed a little, but not take away to much from the off of the line speed either, so I really need to find the right size gear that will allow me to take of almost as fast as i can now, but add as much to the top speed as possible while doing so, nothing to dramatic, it just seems like on the road it tops out a lot quicker than I want, and be able to take full advantage of the 3s 1500 mah lipo that i use when i'm running on road, off road that battery will eat parts, so i use ***** 2s 2200 and they do fine, but if anyone else has dealt with this then i need any suggestions i can get, so i don't ruin the acceleration, and get it to go a lot faster at the same time. so any help would be appreciated
    Being that this is twisted's thread, I would start another thread, or even try to find the topic in some of the past threads with "gearing" or "ratio" in their title.
    For your 1st question, count the teeth on your gear.
    Go up a tooth at a time until you get the desired combo of torque and speed you want. Gears are $3 so getting a couple will be cheap.
    Last edited by rag6; 07-13-2011 at 04:06 AM.
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  9. #129
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    I'm pretty sure that the factory gearing is 16/50 in the 1/16 Summit VXL. Counting teeth on a gear is going to be awkward.
    Just accelerate, and only good will come.

  10. #130
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    Definitely 16/50 as stock.

    I'm gonna try 16/55 in an effort to rip through less driveshafts ;o)

  11. #131
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    ive counted a many of gears in my rc hobby.... just mark each tooth with a sharpie as you go you can also look up the stock gear in the manual or download the manual if you dont have it.
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  12. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by E-RevoVXL View Post
    I'm pretty sure that the factory gearing is 16/50 in the 1/16 Summit VXL. Counting teeth on a gear is going to be awkward.
    awkward??? how hard is it to count?
    Last edited by rag6; 07-14-2011 at 02:41 AM.
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  13. #133
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    While our Mini Summit's ESC went back to Traxxas (again!!) I did some updating on ours. I must say the bearings on the turning stack are the bomb! The fit so tight, they take up a ton of slack and the turning is so much easier. Well worth the $2 spent there. I also rebuilt the shocks. The back shocks were bone dry.

    My son now has a 2wd Slash and we are thinking of taking his Summit more into the Crawler direction. I realize that diff lock, and probably wheels and tires will need to happen. Any thoughts on if we can gear down more to get a more torque, slow crawl, or will we need to go to a different motor ESC?

    I may post this on the crawler forum at UltimateRC.com. Just curious if any of you have some experience with this. Not trying to hijack the thread, I just thought it was similar.

    Thanks for the continued ideas. I am new to RC (as of March) and I am learning tons!

  14. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by drofnas View Post
    While our Mini Summit's ESC went back to Traxxas (again!!) I did some updating on ours. I must say the bearings on the turning stack are the bomb! The fit so tight, they take up a ton of slack and the turning is so much easier. Well worth the $2 spent there. I also rebuilt the shocks. The back shocks were bone dry.

    My son now has a 2wd Slash and we are thinking of taking his Summit more into the Crawler direction. I realize that diff lock, and probably wheels and tires will need to happen. Any thoughts on if we can gear down more to get a more torque, slow crawl, or will we need to go to a different motor ESC?

    I may post this on the crawler forum at UltimateRC.com. Just curious if any of you have some experience with this. Not trying to hijack the thread, I just thought it was similar.

    Thanks for the continued ideas. I am new to RC (as of March) and I am learning tons!
    honestly i would recommend going to the summit brushed set up. the brushless version isnt really gonna perform well on low throttle inputs. you can do things to the brushless to make it better but it will not perform better then a brushed motor for crawling. theres just more torque in a brushed motor then the brushless motor and no cogging.

    if you dont want to buy another motor and esc, you could gear down and possibly do a gear flip inside the transmission.
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  15. #135
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    Even then the brushless is just way way too twitchy IMHO.. Mine is tranny gear flipped and geared as low as I could go with pinion and spur.. and it is just way way too punchy .. with the brushed it was so much more controllable.. as soon as I get a big block brushed motor mount I am switching back again..

    Just found one on ebay. for 10 bucks.. TRA7360 550 brushed mount.. woo hoo
    Last edited by jeffnohio; 07-16-2011 at 12:43 PM.

  16. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffnohio View Post
    Even then the brushless is just way way too twitchy IMHO.. Mine is tranny gear flipped and geared as low as I could go with pinion and spur.. and it is just way way too punchy .. with the brushed it was so much more controllable.. as soon as I get a big block brushed motor mount I am switching back again..

    Just found one on ebay. for 10 bucks.. TRA7360 550 brushed mount.. woo hoo
    yea its prolly the way to go !
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  17. #137
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    Quick question is the finned mount all I need to convert fully to brushed? or do I need a new brushed mounting plate as well? I can't find anyone that knows locally

  18. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffnohio View Post
    Quick question is the finned mount all I need to convert fully to brushed? or do I need a new brushed mounting plate as well? I can't find anyone that knows locally
    i would cross reference the parts in the manual on the home page.

    .............................

    well a little update. i have not really messed with my summit for the past couple of weeks as ive been beating on my KB rally. tonight i felt like running the summit though so i charged up some packs and set out to have some fun.that was cut short do to an odd failure. i was coming into a dirt pile and hit a brick. it popped the pillow balls right out of the rpm knuckles.



    nothing looks like it broke but its annoying none the less. ive hit things a whole lot harder then i did that brick before and that was with the stock hubs.

    im not sure how i feel about the rpm hubs now.. this is only the 2nd or 3rd run on them.
    Last edited by twisted; 07-17-2011 at 10:14 PM.
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  19. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffnohio View Post
    Quick question is the finned mount all I need to convert fully to brushed? or do I need a new brushed mounting plate as well? I can't find anyone that knows locally
    What size motor?
    There are brushed 540 and brushed 380...
    Either way, if you have a 380 set up and want to mount a 540 sized motor, you will need the motor plate and motor mount at minimum. I also suggest getting the gear cover (it comes with hardware) and the "X" Rx box if you want to keep dust/dirt/water out.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  20. #140
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    good to know about the RPM parts, and i wanted to ask twisted, every pic on here i see, on many thrads, the long antenna was cut down to just above the receiver and capped, does that cut down on the distance, or is it a part that makes it just as strong, just wondering, tired of mine scraping the concrete, the wheelie bar helps though! doesn't flip nearly as much, and hardly any axle problems, running some old 1/10 buggy tires, the knobbys, and mainly the 3s 1500mah, does fine, and i got a 19t for the motor comin to get the top end up, by the way for those that were wondering, I found out that its 16t and 50t on the gears, higher gear on the motor less acceleration, then the opposite, and backwards for the spur, or tranny gear, comes with 50t but lower is for top end, higher acceleration, i'm gonna run the 19t with a 45t, the 45 will not work with the factory 16t, tried it not a good fit. thanks and let me know about the whole antenna thing please thanks again

    you need to go with a larger spur gear, for less off the line, and smaller pinion gear is for less off the line, they are opposite, like if you go with say a lower number spur, like 45, and pinion like a 20-23, and it will do a lot more top end, and not as hard off the line, plus a wheelie bar in case you take off to hard, my friend with a mini summit as well runs 21t/45t, and he loves it, but it gets hot quick that way, but buy a heatsink fan for less than 20 bucks, that would help, might wanna go with the bigger motor, (the castle creations mamba monster, or mamba max, one of the two, but thats the biggest you can put on that size body and be the fastest it can be, and handle more battery. brushless lasts longer for sure, just get your gears right and it will get what you want out of it, just tweak it for what you want, ask any questions just add me or whatever so we won't hog twisted thread. later
    Last edited by cooleocool; 07-18-2011 at 08:53 AM. Reason: merge

  21. #141
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    I believe he has a LINK radio, which has a very short antenna.

    You must have the AM radio, with a very long (~22") antenna.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  22. #142
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    thanks, i need to check it out, just wondered what they've all done, every pic i see, no huge blue antenna like mine, so ill check that out

  23. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    What size motor?
    There are brushed 540 and brushed 380...
    Either way, if you have a 380 set up and want to mount a 540 sized motor, you will need the motor plate and motor mount at minimum. I also suggest getting the gear cover (it comes with hardware) and the "X" Rx box if you want to keep dust/dirt/water out.

    Thanks Twisted and Jimmie.. for now I have the 380 brushless in it.. wanting to move to the 540/550 can brushed..
    bought the stock finned big block heat sink motor mount.. but was looking at the blue aluminum stock motor plate and they look different.. Going to check the parts manual

    it's kinda confusing and not helping..
    States Model 7205 Brushed parts list with:
    7060 Motor mount, finned aluminum .................................................. .... $8.00
    7360 Motor mount, finned aluminum (for 550 motors) ................................$10.00

    in the exploded parts view.. looks like I need part # 7380
    and the VXL one i have is # 7090

    but doesn't look like they have that part on the list anywhere..

    update: Did a google search and other stores sell this part.. along with the other parts.. I.E. cover etc..
    Last edited by jeffnohio; 07-18-2011 at 08:31 AM.

  24. #144
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    Here is the exploded parts view for the 550 motor mount

    [IMG] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

  25. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by twisted View Post

    .............................

    well a little update. i have not really messed with my summit for the past couple of weeks as ive been beating on my KB rally. tonight i felt like running the summit though so i charged up some packs and set out to have some fun.that was cut short do to an odd failure. i was coming into a dirt pile and hit a brick. it popped the pillow balls right out of the rpm knuckles.



    nothing looks like it broke but its annoying none the less. ive hit things a whole lot harder then i did that brick before and that was with the stock hubs.

    im not sure how i feel about the rpm hubs now.. this is only the 2nd or 3rd run on them.
    That is the exact reason I run HR knuckles now
    If it is unbreakable, I'll break it.

  26. #146
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    I haven't heard many good things about the RPM knuckles, too, and that the pillow balls will just keep popping out. I heard that you can boil them to bring them back to their original strength if that keeps happening, though.
    Just accelerate, and only good will come.

  27. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by E-RevoVXL View Post
    I haven't heard many good things about the RPM knuckles, too, and that the pillow balls will just keep popping out. I heard that you can boil them to bring them back to their original strength if that keeps happening, though.
    looks like i didnt do my homework .... arghhh

    i had some hr knuckles before on my merv and i did not like them. the threads were screwed up from the get go.i replaced with gpms and those are great. i should of went with them. i just went with rpms because of their rep.
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  28. #148
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    RPM is great where flex is needed.... bad everywhere else.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  29. #149
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    i heard that the Rpm knuckles just continuously break but the a arms r great i have them
    Last edited by XJoeTheShowX; 08-11-2011 at 03:41 PM.

  30. #150
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    well i popped the balls back in and no trouble with the carriers. i did blow another u joint and had some trouble with the skid. updates to come...
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  31. #151
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    with the roll cage and body panels on there how easy is it to access every thing on the chassy do you have to take the whole cage off to get under it to work on it

  32. #152
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    what did you use for the panels cause i have that cage and was thinking that is pretty cool might try it myself

  33. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by XJoeTheShowX View Post
    what did you use for the panels cause i have that cage and was thinking that is pretty cool might try it myself
    its easy to get to things and if you have a hard time its only 4 screws to take off the cage. i used .020 lexan sheet for the panels.
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  34. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by twisted View Post
    its easy to get to things and if you have a hard time its only 4 screws to take off the cage. i used .020 lexan sheet for the panels.
    thanks for the help

  35. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by XJoeTheShowX View Post
    thanks for the help
    no problem
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  36. #156
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    project go anywhere has been having some nasty problems with spitting the drive shafts at the u joints. im still using the merve shafts and they worked fine for a bit but all of a sudden they keep on failing.

    ive been experimenting with different things to tighten the u joints up such as heatshrink tubing over the joint. this proved to be to stiff and didnt work. right now im scratching my head on what to do. looks like the only option is to replace the old worn out pieces with new ones for now.

    more up dates and pics to come.

    i thought about going to aluminum half shafts but i dont like the fact that the axle is aluminum also.
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  37. #157
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    Use the Traxxas CVDs, I've never heard a bad thing about them.
    Just accelerate, and only good will come.

  38. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by E-RevoVXL View Post
    Use the Traxxas CVDs, I've never heard a bad thing about them.
    I have heard plenty bad about them when used in conjunction with stock 1:16 Summit arms/rockers... popping out and twisting/bending.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  39. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    I have heard plenty bad about them when used in conjunction with stock 1:16 Summit arms/rockers... popping out and twisting/bending.
    yea they may work fine for the revo but with the long suspension throw of the summit they will pop out.
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    its update time. sorry but alot of this is gonna be complaining.there are some pics and a good tip that works though. cant go wrong with those.

    1st, i thought i had it figured out about the problem with the stock drive shafts failing. i thought the answer was switching to the merv shafts but i was wrong. they do last longer but they do eventually fail.



    heres a pic of a new shaft assembly (bottom) and an old worn out shaft (top). whats happening is they are breaking at the u joint. they arent twisting that i can see.



    so with the u joints failing i racked my brain for a way to strengthen them. i needed something to keep the u joints from spreading. so i tried a piece of shrink wrap.



    i slid it over the joint and shrunk it down but it wasnt flexible enough. i even tried some small wire, like wire from a bread tie but it needed to be in a spot that interfered with the movement of the u joint. so that was out. seems the only answer right now is new merv joints.

    another problem i had was with my skid plate. a screw pulled through.



    luckily enough there was still enough material left that i could still use the hole. the skid iam using from tbones is rather thin.

    ok, with all the bad out of the way, heres a small tip that i found to be a quick fix. do you have alot of slop in your rear toe links ? do your tires move in and out changing the toe angle ? one way to fix that is to buy new links or you can do what i did.

    **THIS CAN ONLY BE DONE ON THE REAR INNER LINKS**

    what happens is the stock plastic toe link (rear red link that goes from the pillow ball knuckle to rear bulkhead) stretches where the ball is.also the ball wears down. these two things create alot of slop causing your toe angles to change and making your truck hard to drive.

    what i did was with toe link in hand ,i made sure the inner ball (mounts to trucks bulkhead) was centered in the link. then i simply put a dab of CA (super glue) to lock in that ball.



    now this takes most of the slop out and so far holds up good. but like i said only do this only to the inner rear links. why , well the other balls need to move in several directions,up down and swivel. the inner rear ones only need to swing up and down as the suspension moves. so by gluing the ball in place it takes out the slop.

    this tip is only there for a quick fix.eventually you will want to get better links, aluminum with metal ends as the plastic ends will stretch.

    so with that all out of the way here are some crawling pics. and yes the truck got through this on its own...





    and as you can see i took off the cage. u just like changing things up. the cage works perfectly...well for a cage. lol
    Last edited by twisted; 08-15-2011 at 11:56 PM.
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