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  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffnohio View Post
    yeah those Lipo's are night and day difference between the nimh packs.. well the ***** 3s packs anyway.. but so far they held up on mine better than the cvd's
    i have a 2s but i dont want to have axle carnage... lol
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  2. #82
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    Oh but it is so cool for at least 2 or 3 mins.. lol

  3. #83
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    how much is the speed difference with a single 3s lipo and dual nimh batts? im thinking about going lipo for my summint vxl.
    and what about temps? cooler? or hotter?
    Emaxx 3903 (MMM)
    Summit VXL
    Savage Flux 2350

  4. #84
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    Go HERE and see for yourself...

    But be prepared to replace parts... lots of parts...

    axles due to power
    arms and carriers due to uncontrolled power
    ESC due to heat
    ect
    ect
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKbash57 View Post
    how much is the speed difference with a single 3s lipo and dual nimh batts? im thinking about going lipo for my summint vxl.
    and what about temps? cooler? or hotter?
    more volts = more heat
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  6. #86
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    a very long thank you with some questions as well

    first on all thanks so much, i have the exact truck, stock of course, and i have been running 2 cell lipos no problems, but i got a 3 cell 1500 mah, the biggest that would fit, and in less than ten seconds the 2 axles popped out of place, and like what happened to you one broke one pin on the drive shaft, so it will just pop out at any time, even with the stock power cell 1. so i'm gonna order the e revo like i've read everywhere to do, a friend runs his 1/16 e revo on 3 cell all the time, and he just keeps extra stock ones, i think, i just sent a message to him but no reply, on what he runs if the stock ones don't work, i live where i have to drive at least an hour to a crappy hobby shop, so i got this and then like ebay, or any sites that you guys recommend, so thank you so much, you are saving me, and i'm sure others a lot of time, frustration and money. my question right now is, if i run the 2 cell 2200 mah lipo do ya think that the e revo shafts will hold? i dont really bash on it to hard, just a little bit but reallly i just mess around, so if they are stronger thats what i need, just wanted the run time out of lipo, like someone already said, i'll run it in training mode just to keep the axles from breaking if needed, i do like to get it on the road and chase down cars, someone actually stopped and raced me, i told him i only had one gear so he could just max out first, i already knew what would happen, so i got him of course, and he offered to buy it right there, i told him what he needed to do, and what all was in my setup, but anyway, the axles, sorry about the rant there, u think they will work even with that really bad angle they seem to be in?
    Last edited by horsepants; 06-12-2011 at 04:44 PM. Reason: a ling winded thank you with a few questions

  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by horsepants View Post
    first on all thanks so much, i have the exact truck, stock of course, and i have been running 2 cell lipos no problems, but i got a 3 cell 1500 mah, the biggest that would fit, and in less than ten seconds the 2 axles popped out of place, and like what happened to you one broke one pin on the drive shaft, so it will just pop out at any time, even with the stock power cell 1. so i'm gonna order the e revo like i've read everywhere to do, a friend runs his 1/16 e revo on 3 cell all the time, and he just keeps extra stock ones, i think, i just sent a message to him but no reply, on what he runs if the stock ones don't work, i live where i have to drive at least an hour to a crappy hobby shop, so i got this and then like ebay, or any sites that you guys recommend, so thank you so much, you are saving me, and i'm sure others a lot of time, frustration and money. my question right now is, if i run the 2 cell 2200 mah lipo do ya think that the e revo shafts will hold? i dont really bash on it to hard, just a little bit but reallly i just mess around, so if they are stronger thats what i need, just wanted the run time out of lipo, like someone already said, i'll run it in training mode just to keep the axles from breaking if needed, i do like to get it on the road and chase down cars, someone actually stopped and raced me, i told him i only had one gear so he could just max out first, i already knew what would happen, so i got him of course, and he offered to buy it right there, i told him what he needed to do, and what all was in my setup, but anyway, the axles, sorry about the rant there, u think they will work even with that really bad angle they seem to be in?
    for sure soon. ill be running my lipo as soon as i mod the door for the balance plug wires. with the angle, the shafts are only at that angle at full suspension droop. so dont worry about that to much.that should be to much of a problem. it will be the sudden jerks from landings and wheel hits. so loosen the slipper a bit. it will help.

    well i did some work on the truck. i got it cleaned up, shocks refilled and headed out for a run. oh i also added some decals. lol :



    i still want to try out some new tires but honestly the stocks arent that bad...they leave rubber on the rocks in my course.

    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-14-2011 at 04:10 PM. Reason: merge
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  8. #88
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    thanks man, and again thanks for all you have put on here, it has helped me a lot, really. I'm trying to think of everything to get your prospective on what i need to know here.... oh there is a popping noise when i get it in a tight spot i guess, or just accelerate or stop really hard, i assumed that it was the slipper clutch, but i'm thinking that one or both of my diffs is doing it, so i ordered the stuff that you recommended, forgot the name, the heavy grease for the diffs, hope that will help with that. I tock the cover off the trans and all the gears look fine so I'm almost certain that its the diffs, if its not just the slipper clutch, i tightened it all the way, and backed it off a little more than a quarter turn, that is what I've read everywhere, but correct me if you think I'm wrong on any of this. I found an aluminum skid plate on ebay not to bad like 25 bucks gonna get that soon maybe, thought that might add a little weight to it, and got to get a wheelie bar for sure9 do a lot on the road more than off i guess for now). one last thing, my friend runs his mini e revo with 2 3s 11.1v 1500mah lipos, in series, I'm almost positive of that, I'm sure that the battery size is correct, but i tried to do the same with 2 2 cell 7.4v 2200mah and it wouldn't work, called traxxas and they said that my mini summit wouldn't handle that set up, does the e revo have a different stock ESC? I assumed they were the same except for the suspension and body, any advice or knowledge there? would be greatly appreciated, although as soon as I get the e revo axles I'll just run the 1 3s 11.1v 1500mah, that was fast the minute i got to run it before it broke two of my axles, sorry for the long posts, just wanna get everything in there, ya know. thanks again and i hope you can help, and by the way you have a sweet mini summit, i just wish it had the 2 speed and locking like the bigger one, so i could do some crawling. thanks later josh

    oh and what is a merv? been hearing that a lot, and have no idea, maybe a special revo or something, just wanted to know what everyone was referring too. again thanks so much

    Edited for language. If you see a starred out word in your post, the word has been blocked by the language filter. Please remove these words from your post in the future, or warning points will likely be issued.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-14-2011 at 04:11 PM.

  9. #89
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    MERV = Mini E Revo

    MERV ESC and Summit ESC are the same. If your buddy was running 22.2 volts (3s in Series) he could have had it in NiC/NiM mode... and even then the ESC would have fried. A single 3s battery is pushing the limit of these ESC's.

    The click/pop is definitely your differentials. At minimum, a ring and pinion should be ordered along with a few shims.

    I think a half turn out is just right on a slipper... --please correct this if I am wrong!


    Just a note:
    Series connectors have three wires.
    Parallel connectors have four wires.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  10. #90
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    Where do these shims go? And is there a link to this mod? I have some spring washers left over from my order to fix my mini lst2

  11. #91
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    thanks jimmie for the post. jeff the shims go in behind the ring gear to push it closer to the pinion gear. i belive there is a write up in the mini e revo section. just search for "shimming diffs"
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  12. #92
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    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  13. #93
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    thanks for that, i'll check on the ring and pinion and some shimms too, although I'll probably ask for some instructions on where or how many shims i might need, plus i'm getting that super heavy racing grease he recommended earlier on this post, its the heaviest ive seen, so i just got it, like 6 bucks and there's enough to do both diffs, and have plenty left for later, there are a few whole new diffs really cheap on ebay so i may just get two new ons and shim those up, with the grease all before i ever try to run with my 3s 1500mah lipo, and you are right, he can't be running the mini revo in series, gotta be parallel, the speed just made me think it was both of them, but they were the same size, 3c 1500man 11.1v ***** lipos, and in the merv it was doing back flips at like half throttle and i have one of the same ize, and it runs like that, the same battery that broke two axles in less than a min. but i usually run a 2c 7.4v 2200mah lipo and get enough speed no axle breakage there. im getting merv axles, already in the process, and probably gonna get the diffs or what you said to do there, plus a wheelie bar, since i get on road a lot, i kind of want some extra tires and wheels for the road, like some for the really fast cars, 2 handle better if possible, any help there would be appreciated, and thanks for everything so far, everyone, I'm new to electrics, so its helped me find out how not to ruin what i just bought, used on ebay, but in very good shape, less the popping, but no biggie there, got a real good deal on it. later and thanks again people! -pants

    and what kind of speed do you get out of the two power cell 1s in series? cause i would rather loose a little speed i cannot use anyway and break tons of parts, and just hook my 2 power cell ones up in series and not have to worry about it, and i just checked, and my rear end is not turning, but an axle had slipped out, was just checking on the popping, and it is worse, but im gonna break into it, and see whats up, i've already got the part on my list on ebay if it is the ring and pinion, be like 10 11 bucks, totally worth it, with that "super" grease i should be doing fine on all of that, thanks everyone, this is the only forum i use for my summit now! everyone has gone through everything i have and more so it saves me, and others im sure from breaking and buying, but i guess your not playing hard enough if you don't break something sometimes, ya know. thanks again people! -mr.pants
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-14-2011 at 04:12 PM. Reason: merge

  14. #94
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    pants no problem for the help. if you run the stock nimh packs in series you will get the truck moving pretty good. each pack is 7.2 volts so two in series will get ya 14.4 volts. thats more volts then the 3s but there is more to it then the voltage. lipos put out the power better, they discharge at alot faster rate. with the nimh stock packs they have alot of internal resistance and that results in a slower pack. ever notice how warm a nimh pack is after use then a lipo is ? its because of the poor internal resistance compared to that of a lipo.

    hope that didnt get to confusing.
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  15. #95
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    Got it, and here's some more, sorry...

    i got it, lipo is faster, but Nimh is not as hard on it, just not quite as fast, and the lipo runs cooler, but ill end up using both my 2 NiMhs in series, and the 2 2s 2200mah lipos, one at a time of course, and see how they handle the new axles, on there way, awesome, and the grease too, then maybe use my 3s lipo 1500mah, its just so much power i love it, but i dont wanna keep breaking and buying, just depends on what i do after my new stuff gets in and try it, working my way up in power with batteries and the training mode to and see when i might be reaching the limit before i might break something. oh I opened up my back diff, and didn't see any wear, put a little oil in it, i'm just gonna put the heavy grease that you recommended in both, and see how it goes from there. then if needed buy a ring and pinion kit i will. so I should know in a week or less how the new axles handle the power, i may have to ask for help on something then, but ive switched them on a 1/10 nitro, and it all looks the same, so i should be OK. thanks again twisted. let ya know how it goes, one thing, my front left wheel has way more play than the rest,tryed a shim, not really helping? pretty sure the axle is from something else, and its one that breaks so i'm gonna see if the new axle fixes that, and i found this wheel extension kit, http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_...201/16%20REVO# , hope that works, its for the e revo, and just puts the wheels out a little more. " for even better control and handling! Easy installation- just swap with the stock hexes." from the page exactly, thought it might be something worth doing, check it out let me know what ya think
    Last edited by horsepants; 06-14-2011 at 03:46 PM.

  16. #96
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    i ran a 2s lipo today and the axles held up

    as far as slop....get use to it. the pillow ball carriers will get it as well as the stock toe links and pushrods and the steering bellcrank. all this slop will make the truck very hard to drive at speed.

    i just got some new parts to take care of some of this problem so keep an eye out for a new update.
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  17. #97
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    cool deal, looking forward to your update.. I may have to try to trade these 3s lipos off for some 2s ones, or just buy a couple

  18. #98
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    i don't know if you use a certain brand, but my buddy swears by ***** lipos, i got two 2c 7.4v 2200mah, they run great, one of those if faster than two of the power cell 1 in series, to me anyways, not a HUGE difference, cause i dont have a factory charger, just something that the guy sent, so i'm not sure if they are getting fully charged, don't know how long to let them go on this charger, so i did 4 hours each, but the ***** lipo 2c are fast, have to ease into it, and turn down the throttle thing on the controller so it doesn't constantly flip, and i got a 3s 11.1v 1500mah that will flip it at just past quarter throttle, and it broke to factory axles in less than a min. so i got some merv axles on the way, and some of the grease that twisted recommended for the diff, there popping, gonna try that before i order the kit for it. but try *****s i like em, and i know my friend uses them in all his electrics, ran his merv on those, 3s actually, same size as the one i got, and no problems, good run times, no breaking of parts... just what i know...but if you know of any u like better go that route. and thanks twisted, keep the updates comin, always learning something. what do you think of the last post, the extention kit for the merv, im thinking about that, better handling since im more on road for now. thanks again, later

  19. #99
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    you need to be using a lipo specific charger for lipo packs. im unclear of what you are using but it if its not a lipo charger and you are charging lipos with it bad things can happen such as a fire.

    as for a wider stance, it will make the truck handle better as far as not flipping over when turning but i never used those extensions. those might put some added stress on the axles and possibly the bearings and pillow ball cups.
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  20. #100
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    well i ran it today again with the 2s lipo and this time i popped 3 axles out of the ujoints.... so we know the limits of the merv drive shafts at the summit angles.

    i would of taken pics but we all know what this looks like. good thing is they look like they popped out and didnt break so i should be able to pop them back in...
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  21. #101
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    yep yep .. poor design ... what ever happened to shearing teeth off spur gears? lol those were so much easier to change .. I would love for that to be the weak point

  22. #102
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    Spur gears used to be the weakest link because axles were stronger. lol
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  23. #103
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    i got a balancing charger with the two 2c lipos so i'm good on that, i did my research there, but good to know that those axles won't handle the lipos, but if you used your 2 power cell 1s in series with no problems, then i guess ill try that, maybe see how fast it is in training mode with the lipos, whichever may be better, depending on what i want, run time or speed, thanks for the update, I got that grease in today, thick stuff, after i put it in the diffs i just held it and hit the throttle a lil, and the wheels stop as soon as i let off, like i hit the brakes, maybe i used too much, but im gonna run it, when i get the axles, and see if it loosens up, or if i need to break em down and take sum out, but no more popping!! sweet, so no more parts needed for now, keep them coming twisted, always learning something, and saving time, effort and cash, so again thank you bro. later

    also i've been thinking about a set of street tires and wheels, the anaconda on the main page look pretty good for on road, which is mainly what i do until i set up my spot in the back yard with some rocks, a few water spots maybe, jump or two, etc. gonna check around, but if you know of any that fit the mini summit please let me know, thanks later peoples
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-17-2011 at 10:25 PM. Reason: merge

  24. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by twisted View Post
    well i ran it today again with the 2s lipo and this time i popped 3 axles out of the ujoints.... so we know the limits of the merv drive shafts at the summit angles.

    i would of taken pics but we all know what this looks like. good thing is they look like they popped out and didnt break so i should be able to pop them back in...

    ITs been my experience that you can usually get a joint to pop 4 or 5 times before it gets too loose and pops out really easy.
    If it is unbreakable, I'll break it.

  25. #105
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    pants i never used the stock nimh batter in series with a nother pack, always just ran one.

    have24wheel. yea i hope they are not to loose. they only popped once so....
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  26. #106
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    the truck just came with 2 power cell ones and the series cable, it runs pretty fast, decent run time, but the 2c lipo 2200mah, so much more power, got my merv axles today, so got those on and the grease in, already said that, so i ran those 2 in series, did just fine, no popping, good speed, had to mess with the slipper clutch a little, somebody told me to tighten it, the a quarter turn out, i went a half turn, but it needed to be out more, so i just now did that, waiting on batteries to charge for the controller, then I'm gonna run the lipo on training mode see how that goes, it seemed like it could handle a little more than the 2 in series, charging those up too, gonna try those on full charge tomorrow and check that, let ya know how it does, thanks once again twisted -later

  27. #107
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    some new parts..... hope this helps with some of the slop issues.

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  28. #108
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    Keeping an eye on your results.. I am on the fence between Aluminum carriers and these rpm's..

  29. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffnohio View Post
    Keeping an eye on your results.. I am on the fence between Aluminum carriers and these rpm's..

    well i just got them on and definetly have some comments about them.i also have the aluminum ones on my merv so ill compare. charging up for a test drive now.
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  30. #110
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    ok here is another update. i got the rpm pillow ball hubs on. they went on pretty easily but i did have trouble with one screw that holds the pillow ball caps in place. the hex was to shallow and it didnt allow my wrench to get in all the way and to get a good bite. i had to put the screw in using a pair of vice grips as i didnt have another screw...not easy.
    with that said they are smooth and took away some slop.

    next step was to work on the steering saver. i wanted to do two things, get the slop out and work on the weak servo saver spring. the slop was easy. i just took out the stock bushings and replaced with bearings. slop gone.



    the next step was to figure out a way to stiffen up the servo saver spring. i could of bought a new one but i wasnt thinking when i made the order so i had to improvise. i was lucky and had some shims the same diameter as the spring.



    i took a very small amount of tamiya ceramic grease and lubed up the shims. i only needed two shims to get the spring preload where i wanted it. i stacked the two on the spring and put the assembly back together. the servo saver still works as it should but its just a bit tighter then it was. the spring was getting tired and needed some help

    end result. the truck turns better and the servo doesnt stress the spring out like it did.

    so with everything working i decided to try out the tires on my merv. they are proline dirt hawgs mounted on traxxas dish wheels. how did it go ? eh.... the tires do not hook up in the grass or dirt at all. surprisingly they did hook up decently on the rocks. not great but better then i thought. i will be taken them back off and going back to the stock wheels. for now here is a pic of them on the truck....

    Last edited by twisted; 06-19-2011 at 10:49 PM.
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  31. #111
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    well looks like a new set of drive shafts are in store... they are popping out at the u joint..
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  32. #112
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    I bit the bullet and got some Traxxas steel shafts, (Merv RPM arms, and long travel rockers) WELL, they have popped out of the cup at the diff twice on the rear already so I screwed in the pillow balls as far as they will go without binding, and so far so good...
    If it is unbreakable, I'll break it.

  33. #113
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    how are those RPM parts working for ya? I need to get some slop out as well, gonna try what you did, when I can. gotta find some of the same size shims that you had, and got a few extra bearings, might change that out, never broke down the servo saver, or whatever its called, to stiffen the spring up a little, just need the thing to go straight, its always pulling one way or the other, just to much play, everything is tight, but still way to much play, I know it needs some, but not this much. and from everything i've read the steel shafts don't really work better than the merv ones, although I was thinking about just tightening the pillow balls down like hav24wheel did, gonna wait and see on that too. thanks again, everyone

    Edited for language abuse.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-28-2011 at 07:40 AM.

  34. #114
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    Twisted, I'm curious. I recently rebuilt my stock shocks using 70 weight Losi silicone oil, opposed to the stock 60 weight. Also upgraded to purple springs all around. Performance was great initially, but the shocks started leaking fairly quickly and I'm back to where I started. The rubber seal seems good and does not require a rebuild kit. Just seems that the stock Traxxas shocks suck for medium-heavy duty use. I've rebuilt shocks before, so this ain't my first rodeo. For whatever reason, Revo-style shocks in the rear take a beating and don't last long (1/10 and 1/16 scale). I'm considering aftermarket piggyback shocks. Any thoughts?

  35. #115
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    I suggest either Exotec big bore's or GPM's. Most that have the piggy backs end up bypassing the piggy portion to help stop leaks.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  36. #116
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    I have a pair of GPMs, and the hollow balls all got slopped out, and I ended up screwing a stock set of caps on the one end of them to keep slop out.
    If it is unbreakable, I'll break it.

  37. #117
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    piggy back shocks are mostly for looks.. if anything a standard shock in the correct sizer would prolly work better. if you have the money go with the traxxas aluminum ones as i never had a problem with the aluminum shock offered by them,plastic is a different story... the gpm and other companies like integy are touch and go as far as quality... i really cant say anything about their shocks as i have yet to own any.

    **tip on the plastic shock..use some real thick grease on the orings to help seal the shocks and teflon tape (plumbers tape) around the threads at the cap end.**

    the rpm parts are holding up great, but i havent bashed hard with it lately as my merv shafts finally bit it..
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    Thanks for the close-up shots of your servo. We just switched our Mini Summit to the HiTech (exactly the same as yours). I also had to grind off the guard to allow more free movement to the stops. Getting the servo into position was no easy task with the way the wire comes off the side and not the top (bottom?). I stole the seals from an old Traxxas servo. All 4 from the screws, both from around the sides and the one from the turning gear as it exits. Hopefully they help. I also used grease at the top, as well as a coating of silicone rubber around the sides and around the wire exit. We don't plan on going through real water, but I do want to prevent incidental stuff from getting in.

    So far I am using the 4-way servo arm (with three of the arms taken off). I am stopping at the LHS to see if they have a better option. I would like a tad more travel (length) with more stiffness. The 2-way that it came with was wimpy at the end.

    Tomorrow I am also picking up bearings for the servo-saver. I lubed it some, but it still seems stiff and the steering has some definite slop. Hopefully that will take care of it. The fact that the whole thing pivots on a thin piece of plastic is disturbing. It was among the first things that we broke.

    Thanks for the project updates. It is interesting to see the process. We may be doing some of this if my son is able to get what he wants next--Slash 2wd. If so, the Mini Summit is going crawling!

  39. #119
    RC Champion
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    Apr 2002
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    new york
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    Quote Originally Posted by drofnas View Post
    Thanks for the close-up shots of your servo. We just switched our Mini Summit to the HiTech (exactly the same as yours). I also had to grind off the guard to allow more free movement to the stops. Getting the servo into position was no easy task with the way the wire comes off the side and not the top (bottom?). I stole the seals from an old Traxxas servo. All 4 from the screws, both from around the sides and the one from the turning gear as it exits. Hopefully they help. I also used grease at the top, as well as a coating of silicone rubber around the sides and around the wire exit. We don't plan on going through real water, but I do want to prevent incidental stuff from getting in.

    So far I am using the 4-way servo arm (with three of the arms taken off). I am stopping at the LHS to see if they have a better option. I would like a tad more travel (length) with more stiffness. The 2-way that it came with was wimpy at the end.

    Tomorrow I am also picking up bearings for the servo-saver. I lubed it some, but it still seems stiff and the steering has some definite slop. Hopefully that will take care of it. The fact that the whole thing pivots on a thin piece of plastic is disturbing. It was among the first things that we broke.

    Thanks for the project updates. It is interesting to see the process. We may be doing some of this if my son is able to get what he wants next--Slash 2wd. If so, the Mini Summit is going crawling!

    im glad i could help. the servo is tuff to get in with the wires like they are. i think i might of opened the gap up a little on mine but i cant remember for sure.

    the bearings do help with the slop. cheap fix to that problem.
    PROJECT BAJA PEDE

  40. #120
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Mar 2008
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    PM me if ya wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh PA
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    When running my rally, I found 2s a little too powerful for consistent drifting, so I ran my 3s in training mode. In effect was running 1s. It brought the power down and helped with consistency in drifting, while still having plenty of get up and go if I geared up a little. Electronics ran much cooler also. Maybe this could be the answer with the merv axles? Just a thought...

    Where did you get the cage?
    I really like the "long term test" type thread!
    Last edited by rag6; 07-08-2011 at 03:19 AM.
    Wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh ???

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