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  1. #1
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Porting the sleeve

    I debated on putting this thread here or in the Engine section, but there is more traffic here, so...
    I’ve been thinking about doing this for quite a while and was going to wait until my engine decided to breathe its last breath. However, a big thanks goes to insanity for contributing a useless sleeve that he had lying around his workstation. The agreement was I would try it but I have to do a write-up on it and share with everyone here. Not a problem.
    I read up on porting at RC Universe; AB Mods; EB Mods; and whatever else I found using Google.
    Total time to do this was about an hour and a half; but that includes taking numerous photos and running back inside to check on the kids while they were napping.
    ****Disclaimer: Now just because I read up on all of this and did some research, I am by far no where near being a professional and do not claim that what I did will meet or exceed those that do this for a living. Do this at your own risk as I will not take blame if you screw up your engine. Given that this is a junk sleeve, I was not able to test it to verify the claims of more power and better mileage.****
    Background on the sleeve:
    Quote Originally Posted by insanity
    It was a new motor; ran it for one tank. After that he could not get it to start. The con rod went through the piston, and it fought like crazy getting it out. I could not use the force it out with the piston so I went caveman on it.
    Overall the inside is very nice and shiny and does not appear to have much wear to it at all. Even the exhaust port does not have burn marks to it. But one of the intake ports is marred a little bit. I did take a spare piston and it seems to have a bit of compression left.
    Ready? Here we go!

    Pic 1: Before porting; exhaust port on the right.



    Pic 2: Before porting; boost port on the right.



    Pic 3: Rounded bottom outer edge. I started with the sanding band but felt it left a lot of scratch marks. So I used the grinding wheel and it turned out pretty smooth. Followed it up with the wire brush and felt polisher. Ended up taking the brush and polisher to the entire outside of the sleeve. The nick you see in the bottom under the boost port is collateral damage from the piston/rod failure.



    Pic 4: Boost port. This seemed to be large enough and at a steep enough angle so I felt there was no need to make it bigger and only polished it.



    Pic 5: Using a Sharpie to determine the angle. It is hard to see but the port is already angled somewhat towards the area above the boost port. I’ve seen other sites (Misbehavin’s?) in the past that show you want to angle the cut towards an imaginary “X” above the boost port. The exhaust port is on the left.



    Pic 6: Sharpie again on the other side. Exhaust port on the right.



    Pic 7: Cut has been made and cleaned up. Other sites have said to cut the opening a little bigger on the outside (but don’t touch the inside of the sleeve!) but I decided to leave it. Make sure you have a steady hand. The stone slipped a few times and nicked the outside—which is probably no big deal but I also slipped and nicked the top of the port a couple times.



    Pic 8: The other side, again I slipped and really nicked the top of the port. The angle is not as clean as the other side and I took off a little of the outside of the port on the left side too.



    To be continued....
    Last edited by Double G; 03-11-2011 at 05:24 PM.
    The Super Derecho

  2. #2
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Pic 9: The Dremel attachments I used. Felt wheel, wire brush, grinding stone, sanding stone, sanding band, and aluminum oxide abrasive wheel.



    Pic 10: A good sleeve out of a spare engine next to the ported sleeve. Maybe it would help if I did a second fang or opened the face up a little more. Unsure.



    Pic 11: The other side.



    Summary. Really, this is not as hard as it looks. It definitely takes a bit of practice to get the hang of it. Also, it would be nice to have the resources available to get engine power measurements before and after. Also it would be nice to practice various cut-outs and determine how well they produce results or even if they do.

    Lessons learned:
    --If you are going to do a write-up for others with photos, use a decent camera. I used an old point and shoot for a few pictures before I searched and found our Canon EOS Rebel and set it up on a tripod. Take plenty of photos and weed out the blurry ones; nothing bugs me more than people posting blurry photos.
    --Use the proper tools. A trip to Home Depot revealed they did not carry any carbide cutting bits so I had to make due with grinding stones. I've seen a better selection at Sears and Menards (another big box hardware store here in the Midwest). What I did have did the work but not as clean as I would have liked.
    --Have patience. It will take a while for some of the stones to grind through the material so don’t rush it. And use the rotary tool at a slow speed.
    --Wear eye protection!! This caused a bit of metal dust and some of the flakes got into my eye. Any other foreign objects besides contacts will be rejected by the eye.
    --Measure twice and cut once—start small then cut deeper.
    --Good thing I practiced! I may try this again. Though if I wanted more power I would spend it on a bigger engine or stimulate the economy and purchase the services of a modder. Though when my current engine wears out I may port that sleeve and repinch it to see if there is any power improvement and get a little more life out of it.

    Thanks again to insanity for sending the sleeve my way. I'll probably do more research and maybe cut the sleeve some more.
    Last edited by Double G; 03-11-2011 at 05:23 PM.
    The Super Derecho

  3. #3
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    Does this really work, that little groove?

  4. #4
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    Your welcome DG and thanks for posting it up.

    Supposidly it dose, how I havent read the articles yet to say. But in theroy it is like port and posish on a set of heads for a car. It allows the air to travle in easier and smoother giving well perty much better everything out of a motor.
    Cads, Insane RC, PWC,and BOAT CORNUCOPIA

  5. #5
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    Double G does it make the engine run better ? Have you gotten that far yet ??

    I seen an ad on my local craigslist claiming more power from the porting and polish...

    Guy wants $50 plus shipping...

  6. #6
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    He hasent goten that far with it yet.
    Cads, Insane RC, PWC,and BOAT CORNUCOPIA

  7. #7
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kfarron1 View Post
    Double G does it make the engine run better ? Have you gotten that far yet ??

    I seen an ad on my local craigslist claiming more power from the porting and polish...

    Guy wants $50 plus shipping...
    The reports is that it makes the engine run better but this sleeve was a junk sleeve. Maybe I'll try it with a good sleeve and get before and after results, however, it would be perceived results as I do not have a dynometer.
    And $50 is not worth it for some guy on the street. Do it yourself or hire the services of a pro.
    The Super Derecho

  8. #8
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    Nice work DG, Thanks for putting the time into a good info post.
    15 IS Enough, Time to thin down the fleet some.

  9. #9
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    I did very similar to this with a 2.5 r motor ( diff is I opened the exhaust port until it stayed open for 180* theory is all the porting in the word is no good if it can't get in AND OUT) I did see an improved performance like I thought I have an 18 now but it has alot tighter tolerance to tuning move the high speed needle one hour at a time is too much it likes 15 minute adjustments now

  10. #10
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    Today had nothing to do and decided to mod my OS .21TM. Sharped the bottom of the sleeve and polished. Smoothed and polished the boost port and made one fang in each transfer port and polished the whole sleeve. Took the crank and grinded a little bit and polished the fang. Went to the track crossing my fingers and for my surprised the engine fired up almost instantly, had to lean it almost 2 hours on the HSN, the bottom end was rich too and had to lean it turn. The engine got a very nice linear acceleration with very smooth shifting (even with a wide ratio) an increase in power on the whole band with more and longer wheelies with an increase of the top speed but what actually is having me crazy it’s that I think the running time got longer for more than 2 minutes. Burned two other tanks and the result was the same.
    For the moment I’m very pleasant with my job but in the excitement forgot to take pictures but as soon as I open again the motor will take pictures and will post them.
    Thanks DG for the impulse.
    Last edited by danyvw; 09-06-2011 at 01:22 PM.
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  11. #11
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    Hmm I may try this on my 2.5r it's still running but getting close to going bad(I think since it does not have a lot of pinch left) if I do I'll try to log as much info as I can and take pictures

  12. #12
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    The theory behind this and it does work is it directs the fuel to the plug more and have less of a chance for it to flow out the exhaust. This is because for a short time both intake and exhaust is open. This takes you into a more in depth exhaust scavenging but I'm not getting into all of that.

    When I do this I use diamond tip bits you can buy off of ebay. Some hardware stores have them as well but make it smooth after you cut and it will help out even more. The biggest gain though comes from a well modified crank. Sleeve gets very little in comparison. You can also do the block too and get another gain that's the same as the sleeve mod.

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    Pic 4: Boost port. This seemed to be large enough and at a steep enough angle so I felt there was no need to make it bigger and only polished it..
    Next time try the boost port (intake port) just stay away from the exhaust port ... Trust me it makes a large difference...

    I've modd'd 6 engines now. They all are happy little monsters....
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    He will be greatly missed...

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