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  1. #1
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    pieces of metal inside differential

    Hi everyone. This is about my e-revo 1/16 I got for christmas. it's the model with the 2.4ghz remote. I've ran it maybe 12 times. six times with lipo 3s.

    this weekend I had this weird grinding noise when torque was hard acceleration with lipo 3s with stock motor and everything else. I did put the gear down pinion that came in the erevo 1/6 box for the 50mph

    if i moved the wheels, they freely worked no issues, only at high torque it made the noise. I force moved a bit each wheel while holding the others. The back axl left or right is the only one that seemed to make the noise with a bit of pressure so i opened the back differential to investigate. looks like I had some dirt entering there because the bottom of bulk head was a bit open like the size of one shim. I read somewhere tonight that speed expands the bulkhead and separates the insdie but this looks like it affected outside as dirt came in

    I found 3 or 4 pieces of metal stuck to the gears. I hope that's all. I don't want this to happen again, should I silicon it shut? this is the 2010 model. I just pulled the metal pices out with my knife but I am not washing it all out (don't even know how) or taking more apart unless very recommended. What would you guys do? Do I need to buy Shims? everything is pretty much stock on this model. thanks


    The seams did not seem to be fully compressed on the bottom of the bulkhead, letting debris go inside.



    Metal shard on the gears! One on tip of the knife.



    Should I add SHIMs? You can see the dirt that entered right there at the bottom. The rest of the dirt inside probably mixed in with the original differential lubricant. All apart tonight, what should I do before I put it all back in?

  2. #2
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    I would use WD-40 or something like it to clean out the outside of the diff and inside of the bulkhead completely. You want to make sure the diff gear is completely clean so you can inspect the teeth for damage, and completely clean out the grease so that you aren't haunted by the small metal pieces you might not see hidden (and then re-grease after). With my luck I replaced transmission gears in my jato only to have the new ones ruined by small leftovers from the old gears in the transmission case.
    This would probably be a good time to shim your diff while it's taken apart, it's easiest to feel if they need shims when it's all taken apart.

  3. #3
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    +1 totally clean it out and inspect it seems unusual for metel to get in with the gears from an external source. odds are that its from the gears themselves.

  4. #4
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    Cool, I have one tube of differential lube, I can give that a shot, do I need to open the gear any further or leave it closed as seen on pic and clean it real well with wd-40?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by joeflux View Post
    Cool, I have one tube of differential lube, I can give that a shot, do I need to open the gear any further or leave it closed as seen on pic and clean it real well with wd-40?
    It's not a bad idea to take the entire diff apart and refill it while you've got it that far along already. The diffs are known to not have enough diff fluid in them. If you don't want to do that, I'd definitely at least take the ring and pinion out of the bulkhead and clean both thoroughly as well as clean the inside of the bulkhead out.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by daravelli View Post
    It's not a bad idea to take the entire diff apart and refill it while you've got it that far along already. The diffs are known to not have enough diff fluid in them. If you don't want to do that, I'd definitely at least take the ring and pinion out of the bulkhead and clean both thoroughly as well as clean the inside of the bulkhead out.
    I can dive in even deeper, my car already looks like a bunch of parts, why not Okay so will one tube of diff fluid work? I got it from the hobby shop and it's unopened.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by joeflux View Post
    I can dive in even deeper, my car already looks like a bunch of parts, why not Okay so will one tube of diff fluid work? I got it from the hobby shop and it's unopened.
    Yeah it doesn't take much. I think 30k is the stock weight. Some people like to use thicker or thinner fluid.

  8. #8
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    This weekend I had a bit more time to do this. So I opened more and it looked clean inside, i added more differential fluid. Then I cleaned the outside and found that around 7 gear teeth are smaller, as if shaved off. Looks like you were right the metal pieces came from itself. So I can't decide if I should put it back together or if I should buy a new differential. The guy at hobbytown hobby shop said he already broke 4 of them. I wish they had a more powerful one. When I asked about Shim's they didn't offer me the parts and since I didn't know any part numbers I just left after browsing around. What would you guys do?




    here you can see the metal shaved off


    metal shaved off


  9. #9
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    I went to the local hobby shop and I bought the shims and the gears only. Going to just rebuild it with Shims. Will let you guys know how it works out.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by daravelli View Post
    Yeah it doesn't take much. I think 30k is the stock weight. Some people like to use thicker or thinner fluid.
    I am so lost now. I started rebuilding it since I bought the new ring gear and pinion gear for differential. I asked the local hobby shop to give me diff lube for it. So they handed me team associated 6591 s.diff lube and I put it inside the diff and on top. However, it feels too stiff as I manually rotate with the back, not put everything back together yet until i figure this out. This lube has no 30k or any numbers. What did I just do? I wish lhs would have explained a bit more.

  11. #11
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    starting to figure this out on my own, looks like lube and oil is not the same thing even though both lubricate. I need oil inside the seals and lube outside on the gears. is that correct? another trip to lhs. lol

  12. #12
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    Yes that's what the book says, diff oil inside and grease or lube on the pinion gear. But from my experience after 4-5 days the diff lost all the oil, so i concluded that is worth to try grease inside the diff, i think is better this way than a dry diff.
    It's been some time now since i filled the diff with grease and after first diff inspection there is no sign of wear and tear inside the diff. The car is performing very good.I use 2x2s 30c 1800mAh.
    Now i don't need to take the car apart very often, the grease stays there for a longer time than diff oil.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by c_codrut View Post
    Yes that's what the book says, diff oil inside and grease or lube on the pinion gear. But from my experience after 4-5 days the diff lost all the oil, so i concluded that is worth to try grease inside the diff, i think is better this way than a dry diff.
    It's been some time now since i filled the diff with grease and after first diff inspection there is no sign of wear and tear inside the diff. The car is performing very good.I use 2x2s 30c 1800mAh.
    Now i don't need to take the car apart very often, the grease stays there for a longer time than diff oil.
    Thanks, I am going to skip going to LHS since I saw many posts similar to yours last night. On the 1/16 all the fluid comes out and the people that opened theirs brand new saw no fluid inside the differential. Interesting huh.

  14. #14
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    Everyone that helped me out. thank you! I have put it all back together after and it's all good without the clicking noise as I tested on the table. I only put it upside down and rev at high speed and all sounds great. Tomorrow I will test on real ground. I am pretty hyped up as I had to read the exploded views to figure out how to put it all back together and it all fits! great learning lesson.


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