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Thread: So Cold's Rally

  1. #1
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    Cool So Cold's Rally

    So I figured I would finally get some pics up here and show off my almost finished baby (she weighs in just under 2lbs 15ozs with two batteries and parallel connector as pictured)

    Here's a list of what I have done so far. (I think I remembered everything)
    -traxxas center diff
    -traxxas aluminum push rods and toe links
    -traxxas machined balls (very under rated upgrade IMO)
    -aluminum rockers
    -rocker bearings
    -rpm knucles
    -traxxas upgraded shocks
    -traxxas steel driveshafts
    -castle sidewinder sv2 4600kv with blower
    -dual traxxas servos
    -traxxas big block mount
    -black dyed chassis and springs

    I will be going through the diffs and shocks and have a little fluids day sometime in the near future. I'll get the brushed traxxas receiver box eventually too to clean things up and I may shorten the motor leads from the esc. Lipos once I can drive better. Other than that I'm contemplated adding a gyro but that's probably about it. Oh, and definitely need a nice fiesta body!

    And Finally the pics (hope this works)



    Last edited by So Cold; 02-23-2011 at 01:31 PM.
    Rally SV2/4600 and fully loaded

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    Hey I was checking the other thread out, those summit parts you got are basically so that you can put the SV2 and cm36 4600kv motor on the traxxas chassis and mount? I was contemplating buying the sv2 sidewinder and 4600 or 5700kv motor but wasn't sure how it would fit... I also do not want to cut my receiver box nor change the position of it... can I use the sv2 and the vxl motor? or is it better to use the castle motor? What's the difference?
    1/8 HPI Vorza Flux
    1/16 Traxxas E-Revo VXL

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    Quote Originally Posted by ngnaw View Post
    Hey I was checking the other thread out, those summit parts you got are basically so that you can put the SV2 and cm36 4600kv motor on the traxxas chassis and mount? I was contemplating buying the sv2 sidewinder and 4600 or 5700kv motor but wasn't sure how it would fit... I also do not want to cut my receiver box nor change the position of it...
    Yes, with the bigger motor you need a new motor plate, motor mount and gear cover. And the summit receiver box won't need to be cut, I just don't have it yet.

    Quote Originally Posted by ngnaw View Post
    can I use the sv2 and the vxl motor? or is it better to use the castle motor? What's the difference?
    Yes, you can use an SV2 with the stock motor and it does make for a good combo actually. The castle motors are larger and every motor is different. I got a good deal and decided the castle 4600kv motor would work best for what I wanted to use it for.
    Rally SV2/4600 and fully loaded

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    Can you elaborate on the advantages of
    1. Castle Sidewinder SV2/Velineon motor over the Velineon combo
    2. Castle Sidewinder SV2/CMS36 motor over the Castle Sidewinder SV2/Velineon motor
    3. Castle Sidewinder SV2/CMS36 motor over the Velineon combo

    Heat issues, running 2s 3s 4s any problems with heat? What gearing is used with the castle stuff. For example with the MERV I use 23T pinion or 28T pinion with 50 spur. Waterproof? Water resistant?
    1/8 HPI Vorza Flux
    1/16 Traxxas E-Revo VXL

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    I'm not really the expert on this so someone else will probably have to step in.

    I chose the SV2/4600 because it was a great price and offers a lot of flexibility. I'm not worried about the SV2 burning up and I've heard it is supposed to be smoother than the stock esc (so far so good with mine). You can also program it which is something I plan to geek out to later. I like the 4600 motor because it is more drivable and if you slap a 3S in there it's still very fast. Right now I only run 6 cell NIMH and at the moment I have a 31 tooth pinion and 50 spur and that seems to work well so far. I also got this combo for the additional torque as I am considering buying a 1/10 buggy chassis or roller and using this combo in it as well.

    The castle esc's do not come waterproof
    Rally SV2/4600 and fully loaded

  6. #6
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    Very nice, thanks for posting the pics! I broke down and ordered the tenbol mount instead. Let us know durability after a few packs, I plan on running a steel spur gear... and have a center diff. I'll post an update once it's in and I start driving it at my track.
    Mini Summit / Rally

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    Looking good! I'm tempted to pick up those traxxas upgrades (push rods and links) but will wait till I actually get to run it outside.
    XO-1|SlashUE-MMM2200|Rally-SV2&MERV-MMP w/NEU1112

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    Nice... Few questions:

    Golden Horizons rockers? Are they much heavier than the stock plastic ones? I like em for the bling...

    Do the alu toe links fit more tightly over the hollow balls than the all-plastic ones? I replaced my OG toe links with a fresh set of all-plastic ones onto steel hollow balls and still have slop... The Traxxas aluminum ones have replaceable ends, yea?


    Also, what does running 2x steering servos get you? Are they each less stressed working together, therefor less likely to get trashed? Of course I'm looking to get rid of steering-linkage slop as well (have an aluminum steering post and bearings installed now)

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    Quote Originally Posted by prototyp View Post
    Nice... Few questions:

    Golden Horizons rockers? Are they much heavier than the stock plastic ones? I like em for the bling...
    Yup, they probably are a bit heavier, I could weigh them if u want. I mainly put them on to add some color and personality, but part of me wishes I would have just gone stainless. I did these really early and I thought they would match the toe links and push rods.

    Quote Originally Posted by prototyp View Post
    Do the alu toe links fit more tightly over the hollow balls than the all-plastic ones? I replaced my OG toe links with a fresh set of all-plastic ones onto steel hollow balls and still have slop... The Traxxas aluminum ones have replaceable ends, yea?
    I think they fit better, the only place I have slop that I don't like is on the back where the toe links attach to the chassis. But I think that is more a chassis issue. I really like how smooth the suspension feels with the machined balls. And yeah I'm pretty sure you can replace the ends but I haven't had to yet.

    Quote Originally Posted by prototyp View Post
    Also, what does running 2x steering servos get you? Are they each less stressed working together, therefor less likely to get trashed? Of course I'm looking to get rid of steering-linkage slop as well (have an aluminum steering post and bearings installed now)
    It gets you both things. I fried my first servo because I couldn't take the beating I gave it (it was really more of a knucle binding issue) so now I have twice the torque. And I have way less slop in my steering like you said. I tried the hr linkage and it seemed to be too thick and the skid plate wouldn't fit right so I am just using stock at the moment. What brand are you using? Gpm? The dual servos is probably over kill for most but it's cheap insurance and it appeals to the engineering side of me.
    Rally SV2/4600 and fully loaded

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    Don't forget you can get a Trinity Duo3 for the 1/18 - 1/16 models...

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    I had tried some traxxas bearings for the steering (my LHS told me they would work) but they weren't the right size. But I do want to get a pair, I found these

    http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi...&part_id=10163

    I haven't ordered anything from new era yet so... anybody else have anything they know works?
    Rally SV2/4600 and fully loaded

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    Avid RC... 5x8x2.5

    Nice product, good prices, quick shipping. Thumbs up.
    Last edited by prototyp; 02-24-2011 at 07:16 PM.

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    I grabbed some upgraded steering bearings from the toyz, but of course i won't give a link because they are too expensive and wow is their shipping so high... BS!

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    Quote Originally Posted by prototyp View Post
    Avid RC... 5x8x2.5

    Nice product, good prices, quick shipping. Thumbs up.
    Got 2 on order along with a sticker sheet for fun. Thanks for the heads up. I'll post an update when I get them installed.
    Rally SV2/4600 and fully loaded

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    I did my rockers, too (metal seals, tho) as well as the steering post (rubber sealed). Seem to be holding up well through lots of mud, dust, decomposed granite, rain, etc... Avid get nods from the high-end, big-scale bashers so ought to be good for us.

    Just cleaned and lubed the Traxxas wheel bearings and some of em are getting a little crunchy (even after hairball !! removal)... Good spot for ceramic?

    Last edited by prototyp; 02-25-2011 at 12:48 AM.

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    I have traxxas bearings in my rockers right now. But as I need to replace bearings I'll probably use these.
    Rally SV2/4600 and fully loaded

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    Bearings for the steering just came in today. Will install them one of these nights later this week and post how they work. I'm all for replacing bushings with bearings but I'm curious how much of an impact this will have since I have dual servos.
    Rally SV2/4600 and fully loaded

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    They make the pivot much smoother, but not a huge effect on the overall system with the hubs and ball joints etc... I found they didn't take up much slack, which was what I was mainly going after.

    If you're looking to reduce slop, give the Glide floss thing a try. Works.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by So Cold View Post
    Yup, they probably are a bit heavier, I could weigh them if u want. I mainly put them on to add some color and personality, but part of me wishes I would have just gone stainless. I did these really early and I thought they would match the toe links and push rods.
    I'm holding out for some black/dark/gun-metal tinted rockers… might go the Rit route on the stock plastic bits for now.

    Steel balls, alu toes, little here, little there… surely weight is going to creep up. Getting off NiMH would probably make a bigger difference anyway. I'm envious of the Teflon/Aluminum balls available for the bigger-scale Traxxas rigs, tho. Titanium pillow balls are appealing to keep the knuckles moving smoothly and not worry about rust, super-$pendy tho.



    Quote Originally Posted by So Cold View Post
    I think they fit better, the only place I have slop that I don't like is on the back where the toe links attach to the chassis. But I think that is more a chassis issue. I really like how smooth the suspension feels with the machined balls. And yeah I'm pretty sure you can replace the ends but I haven't had to yet.
    The inner balls on both the front and the rear toes are a loose spot for sure. Took care of that with floss...


    Quote Originally Posted by So Cold View Post
    It gets you both things. I fried my first servo because I couldn't take the beating I gave it (it was really more of a knuckle binding issue) so now I have twice the torque. And I have way less slop in my steering like you said. I tried the hr linkage and it seemed to be too thick and the skid plate wouldn't fit right so I am just using stock at the moment. What brand are you using? Gpm? The dual servos is probably over kill for most but it's cheap insurance and it appeals to the engineering side of me.
    Yea, I've got the HR post… I didn't run into any fitment issues, though the core screw had to really get cranked down to take up that last bit of space between the end of the post and the skidplate. There wasn't much impact on slop with the post or with the Avid bearings... The floss approach between the post and the bearings and around the ball ends took care of that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by prototyp View Post
    I'm holding out for some black/dark/gun-metal tinted rockers…
    I would be all over that, big fan of gunmetal.
    Rally SV2/4600 and fully loaded

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    Can you either post or email me some more detailed pictures on how your ESC is mounted?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Teknic View Post
    Can you either post or email me some more detailed pictures on how your ESC is mounted?
    I covered the bottom of the sidewinder in Velcro and put the other side of the Velcro on the chassis. Nothing fancy, just get good Velcro and keep everything flat so it sticks. I may do something more elaborate later.
    Rally SV2/4600 and fully loaded

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    Update: Got the steering bearings in and put back in the hr steering post. Got it all together and it looks good. I'll probably take it for a spin tomorrow and see how it goes.
    Rally SV2/4600 and fully loaded

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    Quote Originally Posted by So Cold View Post
    I covered the bottom of the sidewinder in Velcro and put the other side of the Velcro on the chassis. Nothing fancy, just get good Velcro and keep everything flat so it sticks. I may do something more elaborate later.
    Does it fit well? It doesn't look like you did any cutting is why I'm asking.

    Currently my Sidewinder is sticky taped into my Rustler so I can't really take it out to test fit it.

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    I can't believe I passed this thread up. It's the direction I want to go. Thanks for posting and sharing. Great info...
    Thrash It, Bash it, Break it, No Regrets!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Teknic View Post
    Does it fit well? It doesn't look like you did any cutting is why I'm asking.

    Currently my Sidewinder is sticky taped into my Rustler so I can't really take it out to test fit it.
    It fits fine, and yes no cutting required. I may eventually use the plastic I have to make a bracket to mount the esc on it's side. But for now this is very simple and works.
    Rally SV2/4600 and fully loaded

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dknuckles View Post
    I can't believe I passed this thread up. It's the direction I want to go. Thanks for posting and sharing. Great info...
    Thanks man, I'm just figuring it out as I go. Let me know if you have any questions or especially if you have any suggestions for me.

    I really need a new body....
    Rally SV2/4600 and fully loaded

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    That's awesome!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by E-RevoVXL View Post
    That's awesome!!
    Thanks man
    Rally SV2/4600 and fully loaded

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    So I got the brushed mount, couldn't wait for the tenbol any longer... and let me say, I love the fact I can run a gear cover on it. For that reason alone I think I prefer the traxxas mount to retrofit a 550 in it. Any opinion so far with setup options? Are you still running a nimh or have you got some lipo's through it to gauge a preference? I got to the track yesterday and just got the slipper to the point where I can clear jumps like normal, then I had a guy give me the breakdown on tweaking the esc. I ran both stock pinions and picked up a 20t yesterday as my temps never passed 110F.
    Mini Summit / Rally

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    Only nimh's so far. Had to cut down spending lately. Hopefully will get some lipos soon.
    Rally SV2/4600 and fully loaded

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    Quote Originally Posted by So Cold View Post
    Only nimh's so far. Had to cut down spending lately. Hopefully will get some lipos soon.
    spent all that dough, and no lipos? that's weird.

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    Quote Originally Posted by roberto1 View Post
    spent all that dough, and no lipos? that's weird.
    Lipos and a new body are next on the list. I'm a mechanical guy by nature so I tend to gravitate towards the mechanical hop ups and tweaks. And I do enough damage crashing running nimh's so waited on lipos and the extra speed.

    I had been planning on lipos a lot sooner but money got tight quick and since I just do the car for fun it's been on the back burner.
    Rally SV2/4600 and fully loaded

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    Quote Originally Posted by So Cold View Post
    Lipos and a new body are next on the list. I'm a mechanical guy by nature so I tend to gravitate towards the mechanical hop ups and tweaks. And I do enough damage crashing running nimh's so waited on lipos and the extra speed.

    I had been planning on lipos a lot sooner but money got tight quick and since I just do the car for fun it's been on the back burner.
    okay I guess, it is just that you went bigblock motor and stayed with the whimpy stock batts, which is kind of like running a racecar off pumpgas.

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    Quote Originally Posted by roberto1 View Post
    okay I guess, it is just that you went bigblock motor and stayed with the whimpy stock batts, which is kind of like running a racecar off pumpgas.
    Soon to be remedied though. I kind of equate it to taking the training wheels off too
    Rally SV2/4600 and fully loaded

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    Yeah no kidding. I may not have a big block, but I bet my stock vxl system will smoke you bb with my lipos in it! Glad I got lipo before doin anything like swapping motors and esc out.

    Sent from my HTC Droid using Tapatalk pro

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    Quote Originally Posted by So Cold View Post
    Soon to be remedied though. I kind of equate it to taking the training wheels off too
    that is funny, "taking the training wheels off," since you went straight from kit to full size 10-speed bike.

    I was also curious why you would dye the springs, since the painted markings is how you tell them apart.

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    Quote Originally Posted by roberto1 View Post
    I was also curious why you would dye the springs, since the painted markings is how you tell them apart.
    People like myself dyed them for looks (personal preference)....as far as telling them apart, one set is stiffer (thicker) and has 1 less coil.
    XO-1|SlashUE-MMM2200|Rally-SV2&MERV-MMP w/NEU1112

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    Quote Originally Posted by roberto1 View Post
    that is funny, "taking the training wheels off," since you went straight from kit to full size 10-speed bike.

    I was also curious why you would dye the springs, since the painted markings is how you tell them apart.
    Quit picking on me! nah just playing

    I only have the stock springs at the moment so I don't need to tell them apart from anything else. And really I just had the pot of rit dye going and felt like it. If I get some stiffer springs I probably won't dye them and I'll just know the stock springs are the all black ones
    Rally SV2/4600 and fully loaded

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    Quote Originally Posted by all aluminum View Post
    People like myself dyed them for looks (personal preference)....as far as telling them apart, one set is stiffer (thicker) and has 1 less coil.
    i guess i understand the guys wanting the blacked out look, but he has all the red aluminum so it blows that theory.
    but once you get them mounted and preloaded you would have a hard time identifying one from the other, and the theory of different colors for different springs is common in the hobby. so you don't have to get the micrometer out to measure wire thickness or worry about making a mistake counting coils

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