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  1. #1
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    E-Revo Beast Edition (1717, Mamba XL, 8s)

    I am threadjacking kind of badly in the MMM Tuning or Mamba XL thread, so I think I will start my own ERBE Q&A thread here. The project has been completed, and any questions about its build, what parts I used, and how I did things should already be answered on my build thread on Digital.Complex: http://www.digitalcomplex.org/index.php?showtopic=774



    The headlines:
    Motor: Castle/Neu 1717 1580Kv
    ESC: Mamba XL
    Batteries: ******* ********** 4s 4500mAh 25/50C x2 (series or parallel)
    Gearing: 23/40 1.0M, 40/75 mph
    Major Modifications: LST2/XXL CVAs and diffs, HPI center dogbones, relocated Rx box

    Answering Terry's question:
    There is no racing scene here in Hawaii, so the extent of my ERBE's job is jumping and speed runs. The chassis itself is fairly beat up, but that's mostly due to the previous owner...bought the Revo on ebay as a Novak-powered 5605 and swapped almost or replaced every single piece out except the chassis itself. I plan on replacing it as soon as there are signs of it giving out. At the moment, majority of the damage is on the undercarriage beneath the battery trays, since it bottoms out a lot while jumping since it's heavy.

    The post on D.C where I make recommendations and explain things to people interested in doing their own build like this, or for whoever wants to read, is here: http://www.digitalcomplex.org/index....ndpost&p=11323 it's long but hopefully I covered whatever questions you may have.

    Let me know what you guys think. (: There are several videos of the E-Revo Beast Edition (among other things, such as my EDF-powered Revo, and my Revo 3.3 with an outrunner brushless) on my Youtube Channel (digitalcomplex).

  2. #2
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    Beast mode indeed... OMGawd!

  3. #3
    Marshal carraig042's Avatar
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    Looks like you need a heavier spring and possibly thicker shock oil.

    I bet that thing is crazy! Are you running the stock slipper and driveline?

    -Brett
    4wd Sportmaxx 3.3
    E-Revo - Mamba Monster - Neu 4s

  4. #4
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    I think he made his own aluminum slipper plate which worked well and then went for the Hot Racing aluminum extended slipper pads. Shonen may I suggest you also get the double slipper from Hot Racing. It is very well made and looks awesome and works even better. I also think that he recently modified his ERBE with the LST XXL/Kershaw Design full 8th scale drive line. The truck should be good to go on 8S. Although, it will be interesting if even an 8th scale drive line will hold up to that much power.

    Can you imagine if Traxxas was to release an upgraded ERBE with 8th scale drive line and other improvements like mentioned in the thread ''Long live the Traxxas Revo''. Imagine the possibilities.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash View Post
    I think he made his own aluminum slipper plate which worked well and then went for the Hot Racing aluminum extended slipper pads. Shonen may I suggest you also get the double slipper from Hot Racing. It is very well made and looks awesome and works even better. I also think that he recently modified his ERBE with the LST XXL/Kershaw Design full 8th scale drive line. The truck should be good to go on 8S. Although, it will be interesting if even an 8th scale drive line will hold up to that much power.

    Can you imagine if Traxxas was to release an upgraded ERBE with 8th scale drive line and other improvements like mentioned in the thread ''Long live the Traxxas Revo''. Imagine the possibilities.
    You never know. Maybe they are making one right now as we speak A simple 1/8th scale drive line for me would definitely complete it. The space for it is already there as shown by your mods. A simple re design in the bulks and maybe a couple other small things and it would be great.


    Terry
    X3-RC8T/X2 ERBE/Losi SCTE/SC10 4x4/Baja 5SC/Rusty

  6. #6
    RC Racer
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    Looks like you need a heavier spring and possibly thicker shock oil.

    I bet that thing is crazy! Are you running the stock slipper and driveline?
    haha, I am already running the heaviest Traxxas springs and 80wt oil. It's that heavy. Also, mistercrash pretty much summed up my driveline mods...aside from the variable damping, there's not much I can do that I know of. Are there stiffer non-Traxxas springs people use? Most of the aftermarket springs I've seen so far come in stupid colors.

    I think he made his own aluminum slipper plate which worked well and then went for the Hot Racing aluminum extended slipper pads. Shonen may I suggest you also get the double slipper from Hot Racing. It is very well made and looks awesome and works even better. I also think that he recently modified his ERBE with the LST XXL/Kershaw Design full 8th scale drive line. The truck should be good to go on 8S. Although, it will be interesting if even an 8th scale drive line will hold up to that much power.
    that is correct about the slipper pads, I have no CNC so my handmade aluminum one was not really well suited for high RPM (out of balance). I was looking at the Hot Racing double slipper, it indeed looks tempting so maybe I'll give it a try if I break another Traxxas slipper assembly. Thanks for the suggestion (: I will be watching the driveline to see how it holds up, and if Hilo enters a rainy spell I will tear it down and inspect.

    The differentials and axle CVA's are from the LST2, but the center dogbones are HPI. The rear is from the Savage XL, and the front is from the Nitro RS4MT. I didn't buy any premade dogbone kits because I would be paying for drive cups that I wouldn't be using. Two of my drive cups are Traxxas Extended, and two of them (diffs) are RC-Monster 8mm bore. The weak part of the driveline is the 7mm dogbone in the front, but since most of the load (acceleration) goes to the 8mm one in the rear I'm not too worried. I can't brake too hard anyway with the Zombie Max tires, or I"ll flip over.

    Can you imagine if Traxxas was to release an upgraded ERBE with 8th scale drive line and other improvements like mentioned in the thread ''Long live the Traxxas Revo''. Imagine the possibilities.
    A simple 1/8th scale drive line for me would definitely complete it. The space for it is already there as shown by your mods. A simple re design in the bulks and maybe a couple other small things and it would be great.
    It would be amazing indeed. However, like I said in the 'Traxxas as a company' thread on RCM, I am with Traxxas and their driveline decision. Perhaps 1:8 scale style diffs with the standard slider shafts (a modified 8mm bore yoke is all that's needed) will be sufficient, to keep it noob-friendly. Dogbones that can handle the torque should be stock in the center (or an option part, rather than CVA's that can't), since they are less prone to damage than the axle shafts.

    Also, if anyone knows of an 8mm dogbone with length ~50-58mm length? I would like to replace the front dogbone with an 8mm if possible, but I am not interested in a conversion kit.

    Lastly, here is the log of my run in the last video. (:


  7. #7
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    super beast mode

  8. #8
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    Summit springs. Double orange and double yellow. I use them on both my erbe's.

    Terry
    X3-RC8T/X2 ERBE/Losi SCTE/SC10 4x4/Baja 5SC/Rusty

  9. #9
    RC Racer
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    Thanks for the suggestion Terry, but the Summit springs are just longer. I have Revo Blue (5.9 rate) in the front, and Revo Purple (6.2 rate) in the rear. Summit Orange2 is 5.4 rate, and Summit Yellow2 is only 4.9 rate. They allow smoother long suspension travel, but they output less force which will make me bottom out more.

    I actually run the stock Summit springs in my 3.3 conversion, because it's so light they feel like onroad springs. The Summit shocks went in my ERBE, not sure if it was a running change but they have almost three times the adjustment threading on the shock body as the original ones from the 5605.

  10. #10
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    That's one sick build! Had to bookmark all the good info you had in your link. Thanks for sharing that with us, Shonen!

    Traxxas take notes =P
    MBX6T CC 1520
    CF Sav Flux CC 1520
    MERV Neu 1112

  11. #11
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    Firstly, your build and pictures thread is very informative and provides nice details on upgrades that everyone can use. You did a great job fitting everything in and making it look good. I was wandering when someone would put this system in, and if it was necessary, or the power would be usable.

    Now, the question i have is, why is the power so low? Does it not get traction? Gearing not figured out yet or what?
    I expected to see some huge numbers here, and am a bit disappointed i didnt

    All that time, energy and work, I was expecting at least 4000 watts or more.

    Any info on this?

    I have a run on a bone stock erevo from 2009 running stock gearing and even that was hitting 2700 watts, which leads me to beleive that the truck cant use all that extra motor power, or something else is wrong.

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...3.6-Horsepower!

    I am very interested to see what she does put down when she's straightened out

  12. #12
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    That's one sick build! Had to bookmark all the good info you had in your link. Thanks for sharing that with us, Shonen!

    Traxxas take notes =P
    thanks! I was kind of secretive during the build, but now that it's complete I'm sharing everything.

    Firstly, your build and pictures thread is very informative and provides nice details on upgrades that everyone can use. You did a great job fitting everything in and making it look good. I was wandering when someone would put this system in, and if it was necessary, or the power would be usable.

    Now, the question i have is, why is the power so low? Does it not get traction? Gearing not figured out yet or what?
    I expected to see some huge numbers here, and am a bit disappointed i didnt

    All that time, energy and work, I was expecting at least 4000 watts or more.

    Any info on this?

    I have a run on a bone stock erevo from 2009 running stock gearing and even that was hitting 2700 watts, which leads me to beleive that the truck cant use all that extra motor power, or something else is wrong.
    Thanks for the compliments (: But to answer your questions...

    The problem is exactly the opposite of what you think. I run with a slightly too tight slipper as I found today (adjustment time) and zero punch/traction control. I prefer my RC like my cars, no assists (except maybe ABS). I cannot fully punch the throttle at any time, because the truck will wheelie or just flip over. If I increase throttle too much under acceleration, it wheelies and becomes unstable. The gearing is much taller than recommended by Traxxas, even when I had it at 23/38 (shimmed transmission) it would deliver similar results.

    It's not like I'm running quality balls in the truck either, every bearing aside from the hubs are the stock Traxxas rubber seals that haven't been changed since I bought the truck secondhand...there are even four extra bearings due to my double-up technique of the 15x21x4's. I plan on changing the 1717 bearings to ceramics as soon as Boca gets me the correct size kit.

    I consider myself to be in the bottom percentile as far as driving goes, so for all I know I could be doing it wrong However, the consensus on 1717-powered Revos seem to be that it's just not heavy enough to fully load the 1717 (in my setup, anyway). I will try towing things with it keeping the gearing at 23/40 and see what I get. I remember that I tried doing something similar when I was running it at 'brushless edition spec' with the Monster and 1515, it pulled 135A@14v when I manually locked the wheels and hit the throttle (unloaded through clutch). It's all down to how much load the motor has to pull, and an 11lb monster truck isn't enough. I imagine we will see much much more power if it's pulling something/someone, all I need to do is find a skateboard or something and give it a shot (:

  13. #13
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    that is one sweet, wayyy overpowered truck
    SlashVXL-ERBE-Slash4x4PE-RustlerVXL-1/16SlashSW2

  14. #14
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    Wow that thing is crazy

    Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
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    MERV Basher

  15. #15
    RC Racer
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    Thanks guys! Thanks also to everyone who follow my work, 1000 hits on TRX forums, 500 on D.C and over 2000 combined views on Youtube is a really great achievement that I didn't believe was possible. (:

    It has indeed been rainy in Hilo lately which explains my lack of activity...however I have been heavily loaded by schoolwork so a teardown/inspection is unlikely til later this week. In the meantime, I will be asking my friends who have a skateboard if they would like to volunteer for a test when the weather clears up.... (;

  16. #16
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    Looks good! I see you routed the tx wires though the heat sink and rotated your fan for that finishing touch. I wonder if the fan is even needed on a 1/10-1/8 scale projects? I logged a 3000 watt spike with the same package in a Savy on 8s 2650cells . Nice work!

  17. #17
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    Wow what an awesome read I really enjoyed it. I may just try the same on my own..thanks for a great read



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  18. #18
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    Yep great read, Nice work, that was worth a couple of hours, I like out of the box thinkers.
    15 IS Enough, Time to thin down the fleet some.

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Now if Traxxas would put that set up in my 1/5 Revo...
    fingers crossed..
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  20. #20
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    This build makes my heart flutter. It will take me some time as "toy money" is hard to come by thsr days, but one day... I WILL have a 1717'd E-Revo.

    Thanks for the super informative build thread. Bookmarks have been saved for future reference.

  21. #21
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    this mod is worthless without an attempt for the 100mph

  22. #22
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    Great mods gonna incorporate some of these the fan ideal is great
    ERBE,Losi 8ight,Slash 4X4

  23. #23
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    everyone loves overkill!
    Slash 4X4 MMP
    Slash 4X2 LCG

  24. #24
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    I've done some updates on the project, which could be described as a forced upgrade since I blew the XL1's capacitors on July 4, 2012. The truck had been sitting in limbo for a long time since a lot of my RC buddies have either moved away, moved on, or had to sell their stuff. I found out about the XL1's recall, and amazingly Castle took my blown one and sent me a brand new XL2.



    I've since removed the 4mm bullets everywhere, and replaced all connectors with Castle 6.5mm ones. This will hopefully lower resistance to the point where the ripple stays manageable.



    I also added a capacitor bank to further reduce ripple current, which will probably help since my lipos are getting on a bit in age and definitely don't have the same punch or runtime that they used to.



    The new setup. Full details as always are on D.C: http://www.digitalcomplex.org/index....ndpost&p=33394

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    I think the XL1 was just a bad version, I have the XL2 in a L 5ive & no troubles yet.
    I bought two new XL & warranted them for the XL2... running two 3s 8000 mAh 30c, need
    to get some 4s some day...
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  26. #26
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    Great build, really enjoy reading the whole thread.

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