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  1. #1
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    Jack - My Overkill Ultimate Summit

    My Overkill Ultimate Summit

    This is a partial repeat of my post in the bragging thread but with a liitle more detail.
    I thought I would make a new thread in case people want to ask questions.

    I will say I am some what of a R/C newby in that my summit is the first proper R/C car/truck I have ever owned, I have only had it for 1 year and my only R/C experience before this is a Walkera (cheap chinese) helicopter. 60B for those who know.
    I will be Honnest to all questions from my perspective and will admit if I have wasted my money on anything as I go. I am the sort of person who will try something if I see merit in it and can not see major drawbacks, or things that can't be dealt with. My buying the RC4WD Cyclones is a good example of this.
    Anyways here we go.


    Name: Jack (of all trades).
    Motor: Tekin T8 2000kV Truggy mounted above the transmision in the erevo forward position.
    ESC: Tekin RX8 (to be liquid tape waterproofed in the future).
    Pinion/Spur: 18/68 for now. I may gear down yet.
    Batteries: 2 x 2S 9000mah 28C Lipos.
    Speed: I could only get 60Kph (about 37Mph) by the GPS with rear wheel drive (broken front driveshaft) but it had more to go.
    Runtime: Until something breaks. I have no idea but I guess at least 1 1/2 hours high range and 3-4 hours in low range.
    Wheels: RC4WD Cyclones 4.0.
    Tyres: RC4WD Rock Crushers 4.0.
    Body: Stock, blue, very beat up. I will be looking to replace soon.
    Suspension: Stock shocks with 70wt oil, 4 x double orange springs, centre hole on all a-arms and very little preload all round.
    Radio System: 2.4GHz High Output 5ch Traxxas Link.
    Steering: Dual plastidip waterproofed Hitec 7954SH servo's with 10A CCbec set to 7.2V and y-harness inside receiver box. Metal steering belcrank with servo saver spring removed.

    Other additions are RPM front and rear bumper mounts. RPM front a-arms with custom diff clearence to keep as much streangth as possible. Chargery BM-6 with custom 2 x 2S to 1 x 4S balance tap adaptor. Oh and the Traxxas roof light bar.







    This tyre/rim combo had no problem doing 60Kph (not jumping all over the place like the stock tyres do at about 35-40Kph) but I broke the front driveshaft within minutes of driving it out of the shed (my own fault), and it was literally breaking traction with the rear wheels and drifting sideways down the butumen road at 60kph. The motor/esc had alot more to go (esc temps were only 50°C about 120°Fand motor was ony 45°C) but I don't have the skill to use it yet, especialy with rear wheel drive only.

    I have not had a proper crawl with these tyres or with the Tekin but playing in the back yard the tekin seems very smooth with only 'the slightest' coging when going super slow and crawling up an obsticle. I am using the foams that came with the crushers with no internal weight added and the cyclones seam to seal the air inside the tyre (I can't sqeeze any out with my hands), so my foams wont get wet. My impression with the tyres are that they seem to grip fairly well on the tread face but don't seem to have the side bite of the stockers. A proper crawl will reveal all but this will have to wait now as I don't have a spare driveshaft. DOH!! 2 week wait from the states or 3 times the price and only half the wait!!

    I'm happy to report that a 10A CCBEC will fit in the waterproof receiver box with a modified y-harnes for the steering servos. I also have a small sillica gel satchet in there but there is not allot of room left.

    My SMC 9000mAh 28C batteries will go in the battery compartments, but one of them is JUST too big to say it fits. Still I got theses batts for a good price and I am happy with them. Heaps of runtime even with an 18V dewalt geared 18/54 which would do about 38Kph (about 23.5mph).

    One other thing to mention is I sheared a drive pin that came with the RC4WD wheel adaptors on one of the rear wheels. I have replaced it with the traxxas pin and all seems to be good for now.


    The wheel adaptors that come with the cylcones 'to suit the traxxas summit' are a 14mm hex with a 17mm nut. If I were to buy these again I would spend the extra $10 and just get the 17mm adaptors and drill the centre hole out if It needed it. To me it seems like a step backwards to go to 14mm drive hex but I will see how it goes.

  2. #2
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    Nice Summit!! Those bearings on the axle are SCREAMING WD40!!! LOL... I always pop off the blue seal on 1 side, spray motor cleaner to get all the grease out and then put 3in1 machine oil inside and pop the seal back on. Works wonders and increases speed.
    Youtube Search- Tommy Wooten RC

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    Truck looks great man.Love the cyclones but really love the crushers...LOL
    Last edited by jamann; 01-12-2011 at 12:38 AM.
    Mountains cant stop me
    they have tried

  4. #4
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    +1 Crusher

    I gotta get some Cyclones , But now you have me worried about this adapter stuff. I thought the cyclone was 17 hex, so doesn't it just fit the stock summit 17 hex ?


    Nice Rig . Got the Crusher low Squat but still can roll over anything only Rok Lok can beat us there.

  5. #5
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    rc4wd has a specific cyclone rim for the summit no adapters needed...

    http://store.rc4wd.com/Cyclone-40-Be...it-_p_131.html

  6. #6
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    Thanks everyone.

    ^^ This is what I got, and would not get again. When you buy this you get Cyclone universal wheel with 14mm rear hub minus the rear hub and cyclone wheel adaptors for summit which are still a 14mm female hex, same ofset, but with a larger hole to fit the inculded 14mm male wheel hex that goes on the stub axle held in place by the cross pin (that broke).

    To make it clear if I were to buy them again I would buy Cyclone universal wheel with 14mm rear hub and wheel adaptors with 17mm female hexand drill the centre hole out so the original 17mm traxxas wheel hexes fit through. It will cost $10 more but then I would still have 17mm drive hexes.
    After saying all that the 14mm hexes may be adequate only time will tell.

  7. #7
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    I acually have the Cyclone wheels on my summit as well. I agree it seems strange that the ones that came with the adapters for the summit didnt fit the 17mm hex that the summit already had. However they are great beadlocks. I eventually ended up buying the 24mm adapters for the cyclones and converting the truck to match, it helped with the wheel wobble as well.
    Last edited by AlejoHeller; 01-12-2011 at 05:36 PM.

  8. #8
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    great build. Thats a heavy motor to have it mounted so high. Tekins - when working properly - should not cog at all, Later down the line I will be wary of a loose rotor magnet. Luving those tires.
    proj 002: The Funky Gecko
    Man, Use Common Sense!!

  9. #9
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    What caused The driveshaft to break

    I love your summit. My new one came last friday
    Slash, Ken Block Fiesta
    Slash 4x4
    Summit

  10. #10
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    The front driveshaft was already in a weakened condition (read superglued spline) and I was trying the fwd/brk/rev motor profile on the tekin. My understanding was that it would work like the evx2 but with zero delay into reverse. It seams this is not the case. I think it just slams into reverse at any speed but I'm still to play with it and sort things out. I dont want to scare anyone of the tekin for this reason yet but I need more time.

    noir, I think you know why I have mounted the motor where it is but for those who dont know, I mounted it in the forward position to try to put a bit more weight over the front wheels to aid in crawling performance. This does mean that the weight of the motor is also twice the height off of the chassis. This will affect body roll during high speed turns, side hilling angle and possibly ascending and decending angles but I will try it like this for a while and see how It goes.

    I will try to get a short vid of the 'slight cogging' but this only happens when loading up going VERY slow. Some people might not realise how slow I'm talking about but it is as slow or even slower than I could manage with the 18V dewalt motor. I mean a ture crawl.

  11. #11
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    the Tekin has two reverse selections - instant (slam) reverse or a 1 second delay reverse. Neither is perfect but I live with the 1 sec delay. "Quick Tune Mode Brake/Reverse type" . (look under trouble shooting.). I still luv those tires - if they were a lil wider I would stop being so cheap and buy a set.
    proj 002: The Funky Gecko
    Man, Use Common Sense!!

  12. #12
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    Thanks noir I did try the reverse delay for a quick lap but got sick of the delay pretty quick. You have to have the throttle in neutral for 1 sec before it will reverse.
    I will be going back to this just to save the driveline. Maybe switch it between the two when crawling since it is so easy to change.

  13. #13
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    Sweet summit! I have a set of the rok lok 4.0s and I have to say they are the best upgrade to this truck I have found! One problem with them though... They STINK! Lol. They smell like moth balls really bad. Anyone else found this with RC4WD tyres?

  14. #14
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    Ok time for a quick update.

    I have not had much time to drive as the entire family has been crook.
    Just did a quick speed test with 4wd yesterday and got 67.1kmh but I'm not sure if it was topped out as this is the abolute limmit (maybe a tad over) of my driving skill with this setup.

    I managed to get a quick vid of the slight cogging with the tekin setup and the vid exadurates this even more. Here it is.



    I also had a crash while doing my speed runs. I can vouch for the resiliance of the RPM bumer mounts ad the summit in general. I hit the front tyre of my LandCruiser after a 64km/h run at about 40km/h and did no major damage. The front of the front body mount (part #5134) came out from under the chassis and one front draglink rod end came off. Glad to say 5 mins later the truck was runnig again. Did not kill a steering servo either.
    Last edited by diby_2000; 02-10-2011 at 10:15 PM. Reason: Fixing video link

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    I hope the other aussie's on the site are doin alright after the nasty weather.It says the video is unavailable
    Mountains cant stop me
    they have tried

  16. #16
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    Dibby how are you liking that 70wt shock oil? Would you recommend it to others? Thanks for the Intel!!

  17. #17
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    Thanks Jaminn I cant speek for everone but me and my family missed out on the worst of it. BillyGoatRacing lives a just down the road so they are also ok.

    I'll try the vid again.



    Hope this works.

    I also uploaded the high speed crash.


  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by pmurphryan View Post
    Dibby how are you liking that 70wt shock oil? Would you recommend it to others? Thanks for the Intel!!
    Yeah I definately like the thicker shock oil. If anything I would like to try it a bit thicker still, but I hear it can blow the shock caps off if it is too thick.
    I can still bottom out (diff out?) the suspension on a decent jump landing. Even with the bigger tyres. But note I have the suspension set very soft and low to aid in crawling. The shock oil has more to do with landings but I'm sure more preload on the springs waould help as well. Just not the way I want to run it now.

  19. #19
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    Diby how did you get your body to sit so low on the chasis? Looks very cool wanna do something similiar. If you cut it, could you show a pic? Thanks

  20. #20
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    Lowering the body was very easy to do. Excuse my very badly beaten body it has had a tough life but keeps on keeping on and coming back for more.

    Sep 1.
    I filed a bevel on the lower parts of the front body mount to clear the front rockers. You could just as easily cut the lower part off but I tried to save as much as possible just in case I want to do something different later on.



    Step 2.
    I lowered the front and rear body mounts evenly to keep the strance of the body level with the chassis. I cant remember how far I lowered it but I'm sure you can tell be the picks vs standard.





    Step 3.
    I had to cut a notch out of the middle of the front of the body to clear the bumper mount. I have RPM bumper mounts front and back. I think they follow the same dimensions as stock but I can't realy remember. I did not have to cut any way out of the back of the body. You will have to pretend the right hand side of the front of the body is still there but you can see what I mean and the amount of material removed by the left hand side (as pictured).



    To clean the look up a bit better you could trim the excess body that hangs under the front bumper so it does not show like mine does.



    For those interested I also cut the rear window out of my body so I could see the BM-6 I have cabled tied there and read the voltages.



    On a final not I will say that this body (as beten as it is) would not have lasted any where near as long without the roll cage. I have bashed and beten this truck so bad from brand new and it just keeps suprising me.

  21. #21
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    This will be my next body just to see how it goes.



    I'm intersted to see how much different it is with less weight on top but cant see it lasting too long. When it dies I will brobably get another summit body and keep beating.

    This is a simmilar body all painted (or stickered) up from P5 in the gallery.



    Looks very nice!

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    I modded the cage to work on my new body,And i agree this body would have been destroyed within a week without the cage
    It was a bad week a 60 foot tumble down the mountain then not to be outdone the next day 80 footer.. at least that one wasn't all rock lost sight of it in the first 20 feet but heard it crashing through the branches and bouncing off of stuff End result tore a gash in a tire and pulled out a rear toe link.I'm convinced this is the toughest r/c truck made.Nothing should have survived those tumbles.
    Mountains cant stop me
    they have tried

  23. #23
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    Diby 2000 I dig your work stand. Would you happen to have any specs on it.

  24. #24
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    LOL I can tell you she is a beuty!





    It is a baby formula tin. Works well and also doubles as my small imperial nuts and bolts rack.

    But I'm sure your not asking about MY workstand but the one pictured 3 posts above.
    Sorry to say thats not my picture. Check page 5 of the summit picture gallery sticky.

  25. #25
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    I use a big coffee tin for a stand. Works perfect.
    SUMMIT- DeWalt, 4S
    SUMMV- 3S
    MERV- 3S

  26. #26
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    I was actually talking about the stand in post number 21. But in the mean time I am building my own. lol sorry for the confusion.

  27. #27
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    Thats one nice lookin' Summit! I really like thoose tires, they look so cool!
    -Summit
    -1/16 Slash Baja -Soon to be brushless-

  28. #28
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    what is the advantage of 4.0 wheels and tires?

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by tkrunner1738 View Post
    what is the advantage of 4.0 wheels and tires?
    higher ground clearance and the koolness factor
    proj 002: The Funky Gecko
    Man, Use Common Sense!!

  30. #30
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    I like them tires u have on there if u don't mind me askin where did u purchase them

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    Mountains cant stop me
    they have tried

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by diby_2000 View Post
    This will be my next body just to see how it goes.



    I'm intersted to see how much different it is with less weight on top but cant see it lasting too long. When it dies I will brobably get another summit body and keep beating.

    This is a simmilar body all painted (or stickered) up from P5 in the gallery.



    Looks very nice!
    why not use the raptor body and put the summit roll cage on it?... it looks really cool
    anything can be fixed with duct tape and zip ties

  33. #33
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    just got the rock crushers and cyclone bead locks. How do you get the back of the tire to lock, it keeps popping out??

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