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  1. #1
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    Post Run/Bash Inspection, Cleaning & Maintenance

    Question(s) for you - what do you folks do as a post-run inspection/cleaning and for maintenance? I saw the thread on "Washing a Dirty Summit" but I'd like to go a little more in-depth than that.

    I read in the manual about servicing the diffs, motor, etc. so many runs (can't recall specifics) but wanted to get some real-world advice/tips.

    What I currently do: After I'm done for the day/night I blow off the crud/dust (from body/chassis/componentry/tires, etc. with the air compressor blow-gun (using a rubber-tipped nozzle, works good for nudging any clingy clay/dirt off without damaging parts). That works pretty good for the most part as I tend to play in dry areas, so it's very little mud, mostly rocks/gravel/dust stuck in the various nooks and crannies.

    After that I check all the linkages/rotating parts for damage/binding and see if anything needs to be repaired/replaced. That's it so far. I've only had the Summit for a week or so but I'm probably getting close to needing to clean the motor. Do you folks remove the motor to clean/lube it or just give it a good spray with Electric Motor Cleaner? What about the other serviceable areas, any tips?

    I appreciate any and all input, thank you in advance!

  2. #2
    RC Competitor
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    thats funny ... u acually go thru all the check points ... i think i can speak for alot of people on this, those who have air compressor probably use it to blow any dust snow etc...

    give it a little whipe with a cloth thats about it aside from lubing and what not , i usually lube all the xposed bearings with bearing oil but not after every run tho..

    as for the motor just blow it off with the compressor .... thats my opinion anyways....

  3. #3
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    Cool, than you for your input. In a past life I was a hardcore offroader/Jeeper/rockcrawler and I got into a habit of doing pre-run/post-run inspections/maintenance, did some dragracing before that, but maybe it was the dirtbikes before that? I dunno.

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    Those habits are good they will make the truck last longer.When mine is dirty in the winter(too cold) i give it a shower literally
    The titans are not known for there long life if not maintained remove and motor cleaner and re lube will go a long way to making it last a bit longer.There are bushings front and rear,As I'm sure you already know bushings are designed to wear and only have a service life that is equal to how well they are cared for.Bearings that are not maintained usually have a short life as I'm sure you are also aware of.Like any machine there is no such thing as too much maintenance,Just the way i look at it.I completely disassemble my trans and check and lube all the bearings every couple of weeks depending on conditions i run in the wet alot so more often for me than most(Well i do now anyways)sucks waiting for parts when it could have been prevented in the first place
    Mountains cant stop me
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  5. #5
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    Ah I would like to add , two more place you have not checked yet (if you want too). if you have gotten in deep "dry stuff " mixed with small rocks , small as in the size they use for asphalt. make your suspension straight ( arms flat , and blow out the sockets of the axles, tiny rocks like to get in there . this would be for the center side (outside backs need more work ) . now on the out side two places to check out from time to time. but requires allitle work. pull off the blue wheel adapters , there is a outside bearing , but that one is not the problem. its the inside one . so i pull the suspension pins on lower arms (with geometry you can get axle off, if not pull top pins too but not nessary), also pull the special grub screws holding on the axle on the center side of truck. pull off the axle from diff . now you can pull the axle from the wheel hub side . while thats off check those sockets again for any crap inside them. but you still want to see that inner bearing in the wheel hub. so i push the outside bearing out , pushing a little dowel i have from the inside , toward the outside to pop the outside bearing out. now from the outside , i push the inner bearing out (so from wheel side i push the small dowel threw hole at a slight angle , and gently push at various places to pop that inner bearing out . Bingo mine had all kinds of crap stuck to it. so then i had to wash the bearing and relube.

    my friend lent me his little ultra sonic cleaner , cute little thing from trinity . after that i did surgery to relube the little bearing.
    this is the bigger diameter bearing. then put the rig back together. sounds like allot of work. but once you do it, you learn what exactly has to come off. and you can whip there all 4 pretty fast. the bearing cleaning and lubing was the hard part. actually the cleaning was fun to watch. i notice it only gets stuff in there when in fine dry stuff . but mine was volcanic ash. so i could not leave it in there , i would have no bearings , realy fast :O

    i was amazed at all the stuff behind that rounded hex in the axles too in that ball shaped plastic axle socket.

    but yea air compressor always. makes life easy . oh yea motor , I have written about cleaning that in other places here.
    Com drop oil, good stuff too.

    wd-40 no way, its like a magnet to get more crap in smaller places , plus my clutch dont like it.

  6. #6
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    Thank you all for your input, I appreciate it! Going to pick up some motor cleaner at the hobby shop today. On the rocks - I could literally build a small rock pile from the rocks that have collected in the chassis/under suspension/motor, in the battery compartments, etc., it's crazy LOL!

  7. #7
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    What kind/brand of lube do you folks recommend? I saw a mention of bearing lube, wondered if it was RC-car specific stuff?

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    after some reading and looking around.I've come to the conclusion that high temp bearing grease from 1:1 seems to work fine .I've been using it for a while now no problems yet and way cheaper.for the bushings or in my case bearings in the motor i I use 3 in 1 oil like what they use on sewing machines.all the r/c stuff is quite pricey for what you get.motor cleaner i use lectra clean used to clean electrical connections and motors check the automotive stores or wally world home depot
    Mountains cant stop me
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  9. #9
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    I was in a local hobby shop and one of the customers suggested a dry lube, for locks (door locks, etc.), said it was graphite, doesn't attract/keep dust/dirt - which seems to have merit to me.

    I have some 3 in 1 as well. Thank you for your input. I bought some brand of elec motor cleaner at the hobby shop (power shot?).

  10. #10
    RC Racer
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    Question wrt bearing lubricant: I have this on hand: a big tube of Tamiya boron nitrite white grease; white lithium grease (actually a small tube from Traxxas that I picked up somewhere!); Trinity purple motor bearing oil.

    I use the Trinity on the motor bushings, and I've just replaced the four inside/outside bearings in the rear axle ends, mentioned in post #5 above, because they were rough. I put some of the Tamiya stuff on them, and installed.

    Curious as to what people use to clean and relube bearings, as I can see it can get expensive to just replace them?

    Also: What lube to use for bearings /gears in tranny and differentials?

    Is the Tamiya grease okay for all this, or should oil, like the Trinity be used to attract less dirt in all these applications?

    Grease= longer lasting??
    Oil= less dirt pickup???
    Last edited by H2Ohaze; 01-07-2011 at 11:41 AM. Reason: Emphasize the word "use" to imply "procedure for?"

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    The trans is mostly plastic but the bearings do need to be checked.You can carefully pry the blue silicone cover off the bearing(pointy knife) and expose the bearings and carrier to clean them right out(i used electric motor cleaner from the automotive store) and i packed them with grease to try to keep the water and moisture out of them.I'm using bearing grease as it's a bit heavier than most seems to stand up a bit better but maintenance is unavoidable.I like the grease as it seems to last longer in harsh conditions,I run in the wet alot so checking bearings is critical in my case.the diff will leak out the thin oil and will make it diff out(All the power goes to the wheel with the least amount of traction)we have lockers but at speed it won't hook up as well unless the diff's are locked which is never a good idea in high gear where you have limited traction then all of a sudden full traction on one wheel.the drive line shock load usually breaks something.Hope that helps a bit or if nothing else it gives you so more options
    Mountains cant stop me
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamann View Post
    The trans is mostly plastic but the bearings do need to be checked.You can carefully pry the blue silicone cover off the bearing(pointy knife) and expose the bearings and carrier to clean them right out(i used electric motor cleaner from the automotive store) and i packed them with grease to try to keep the water and moisture out of them.I'm using bearing grease as it's a bit heavier than most seems to stand up a bit better but maintenance is unavoidable.I like the grease as it seems to last longer in harsh conditions,I run in the wet alot so checking bearings is critical in my case.the diff will leak out the thin oil and will make it diff out(All the power goes to the wheel with the least amount of traction)we have lockers but at speed it won't hook up as well unless the diff's are locked which is never a good idea in high gear where you have limited traction then all of a sudden full traction on one wheel.the drive line shock load usually breaks something.Hope that helps a bit or if nothing else it gives you so more options
    Yes, thank you. That also explains why my new rear diff I installed (see my post "Differential wiggle room") is much more viscous then either my current front, or my old rear. The old diff got destroyed gears from an exploded bearing, but I opened up the screws on the ring gear, and saw only a half full diff and what was still in it was thin. I think next I tear out the front diff and tranny.

    So it sounds like you can reuse the bearing by cleaning , but you lose the seal. Maybe just trying to replace with a metal sealed bearing is way to go...and I should be tearing this thing apart more than I have been doing. I think I will use the Tamiya grease on the metal gears and bearing in the tranny. Tamiya says it's great for plastic gears as well...I've used it on a Tamiya brand car plastic tranny and diffs before. HHmmm, maybe a tub of thick white lithium would be better.
    Last edited by H2Ohaze; 01-07-2011 at 12:41 PM.

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    Sorry forgot to mention the seal just pops back in place just remove carefully it's slightly flexable.a bunch of guy's went to ceramic bearings in key spots.a few in the trans front and rear inner and outer pinion bearings in the diff's.mostly the brushless folks.the extra power and rpm's were killing the stockers(or lack of maintence)i used the 1:1 bearing grease because it was what i had on hand.i also shimmed my diff's to get them a bit tighter here's a link to read it explains it pretty well.
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...tmaxx+diff%27s
    Mountains cant stop me
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