All over the place!

[beetroot72]

This new 4wd pede is my first 4wd truck and it will not track straight under even medium accelaration. My 2wd vxl pede has no problems and I'm pretty good @ adjusting camber and toe. The 4x4 vears left and right.. just almost unmanagable on flat pavement. Could the differential be binding? Also I run 2s and 3s lipo on my 2wd and the motor/esc stay generally cool but the 4wd heats up real fast.. any Ideas or is it normal for the 4wd to track bad if it's a little slippy out?

[pavmentsurfer]

It would be vey realistic for it to track that way when the traction is inconsistent. The front wheels are pulling the truck in the direction of the traction the front tires are finding. If you were on consistently clean and dry pavement you'd likely find it doesn't do that as much.

Also, the extra friction created by the 4x4 system will certainly cause greater heat in the motor, especially on 3s. That's perfectly normal. If you do choose to run 3s you should gear down to help with heat.

[brentm3]

I'm experiencing the same issue on low traction surfaces...specifically dirty warehouse concrete. I've never driven a real vehicle with anywhere near this amount of rear toe in, I think that is contributing. The Slash 4x4 I run with isn't having as much of an issue even with the same tires and toe, so the shorter wheelbase is definately not helping...

[Shadow7g]

Im thinking with some thicker diff fluid it will help a ton.

[beetroot72]

I'm thinking with some thicker diff fluid it will help a ton.

Good thinking.. I gotta try something.. kinda bumming me out!.. when I'm cranking for a jump and miss it....look like an amateur!

[beetroot72]

Also, the extra friction created by the 4x4 system will certainly cause greater heat in the motor, especially on 3s. That's perfectly normal. If you do choose to run 3s you should gear down to help with heat.

I installed the included bigger pinion b4 I even drove it.. Also the LV detection comes on prematurely. Sometimes it even turns on that way.. I unplug the bat and replug and it's fine for a while... but eventually re-activates imo too early. I then throw the batt in my 2wd vxl-3s pede and it cranks for another 20 min. I'm starting to think there is something wrong w/ my esc.... of course nothing to do w/ my tracking issues. Thinking I'll call traxxas on monday

[erikcrvjl1]

I installed the included bigger pinion b4 I even drove it.. Also the LV detection comes on prematurely. Sometimes it even turns on that way.. I unplug the bat and replug and it's fine for a while... but eventually re-activates imo too early. I then throw the batt in my 2wd vxl-3s pede and it cranks for another 20 min. I'm starting to think there is something wrong w/ my esc.... of course nothing to do w/ my tracking issues. Thinking I'll call traxxas on monday

your running the bigger pinion with 3s??? That can ruin your esc and drivetrain pretty quickly.

[beetroot72]

your running the bigger pinion with 3s??? That can ruin your esc and drivetrain pretty quickly.

Now wait a min.. with a 60c 5250 3s I thought I understood that a 17/54 would keep the rpm's down and the stock 11/54 would over heat the motor and "over amp" the battery.(too much spinning) In The vxl 2wd pede I run the included 23/90 in leiw of the 17/90(stock) and it rocks all day long on my 3s..And I mean it literally almost takes off! 60+ easy and plenty of off road torque for bashing without overheating..It is winter here but that also means the tires are cranking for traction..Please help me understand the logic..=)

[pavmentsurfer]

Its load that creates heat. Higher gearing means greater load. Under load the esc and motor are pulling more amps from the battery. All this adds up to a hot running system. When you run 3s you need to gear down, not up to control heat. Im surprised your not having heat issues on your 2x4 pede geared the way it is as well. I run my 2x4 pede geared 18/86 on 3s and have to watch temps closely. Im hoping you've been checking your temps frequently with a temp gun because your gearing would suggest heat issues.

[beetroot72]

Im hoping you've been checking your temps frequently with a temp gun because your gearing would suggest heat issues.

My temp gun is my hand. If I can hold my hand on either one...then it's cool enough for me. I'll play around with everything over time.. my biggest concern now is the Low voltage detection on the 4x4. Sometimes it activates within min of plugging in a new bat. I have to unplug or even just turn off the esc to re-set, then it's fine for a while. I have no similar probs with the same esc/motor on the 2x4..

[lilstux4]

This new 4wd pede is my first 4wd truck and it will not track straight under even medium accelaration. My 2wd vxl pede has no problems and I'm pretty good @ adjusting camber and toe. The 4x4 vears left and right.. just almost unmanagable on flat pavement. Could the differential be binding? Also I run 2s and 3s lipo on my 2wd and the motor/esc stay generally cool but the 4wd heats up real fast.. any Ideas or is it normal for the 4wd to track bad if it's a little slippy out?

my truck is doing the same any help would be great on this

[Shadow7g]

I put some 50k diff fluid in my rear today and i sealed the rear case because of the sand issue ive been having. Ill let you know how it works out tomorrow. Its been raining and snowing here all day... It NEVER snows in charleston SC. LOL

[pablokillla18]

yeah its hard to keep it in a straight line i thought i was the only one

[samintrepid]

Another option is the tekno rc rear drive shaft, come with 2 axle carrier 0.5 degre and 1.5 degre, 0.5 help in strait line accelaration but less good in turn.

[TitanWarrior]

Wow, that sucks. I thought it was just the OP's lack of driving skill. Now I see its actually the truck.

[JoeK37]

Has anyone had any success with thicker fluid in the rear diff yet? Messing around with the truck on slick surfaces its a handful. Even on dry pavement the "torque steer" I've been experiencing is a handful.

[HunterF1RC]

Yes. I just put 30K diff fluid in the rear. I mostly bash at a local unused BMX track that gets crazy dusty and dry from the red clay mix surface. It too was spinning out constantly before the change. I'd say it cured it pretty well. It still will start to slip one direction or the other at times in the loosest clay, but a minor quick correction works well. I do think that soon I will put in 50k as it should really help even more. Probably should have done that from the start. I did notice it did "flip" over a few times with 30K, and with it stock it almost never flipped. Apparently that is a situation that you can have with heavier fluid. So, I'm going to keep watching it and seeing how it performs, before deciding on that for certain. I have no clue why they would put 30k oil in the front diff and leave the rear filled with black lithium grease instead of at minimum filling it with 30k too. All in all, it's an amazing truck IMO, and out of all the truck I've had, it's clearly the best at the BMX...even better than the Revo 3.3

[beetroot72]

Yes. I just put 30K diff fluid in the rear.

I'm gonna try that this weekend..my truck is dead cause the ESC took a dump and is in the shop. Should I redo the front as well or even go thicker up there to help w/ "torque" steering?

[HunterF1RC]

Should I redo the front as well or even go thicker up there to help w/ "torque" steering?

I feel like the front is fine with 30k. It seems to remain stable and not needing to be tamed so much like the rear. Of course, I have the slipper fairly tight to allow for occasional wheelies on good traction surfaces. Therefore, it appears to me that it is definitely putting more power to the rear than front with the slipper set like this. But that's fine, the front still grabs and still does it's job fine. In bashing/doing laps at the BMX track I routinely run full throttle on several huge (40ft) BMX berms. In doing this, while slightly turning through the berm, if it is too loose of soil even with 30k it will just slightly start to step out. In my next big maintenance session I plan on 50k in the rear and that should set it up perfectly.

So...short answer....just worry about the rear first, then see how it performs.

[beetroot72]

Never done a differential yet.. any hints or tricks?..do I just pull her apart and fill both sides b4 I put it back?

[beetroot72]

Never done a differential yet.. any hints or tricks?..do I just pull her apart and fill both sides b4 I put it back?

Okay nevermind.. I got it.. Now I have 30k but couldn't get any 50k fluid at the LHS, they were out. They did have a 30/40/50 kit but wanted 25 bucks for it. I told em' to pound sand! Is it worth tearing her apart for 30k or should I go straight to 50k and order some from tower?

[beetroot72]

AWESOME!!!!.. Got my ESC back l8 last night! I have what should be close to a 75k in the rear diff with the front currently stock and my initial thought is that Everybody Needs To Thicken Their Diff Fluid RIGHT NOW! I only bashed for 10 min in a lightly snow dusted street but when I did that b4 she was "All Over The Place". I had almost no problem handling w/ my 3s. I did do some other upgrades since my last run as well (ESC was gone 2 weeks) Went aluminum Caster/carriers, KHZ motor mount, and Masher 2k's. Also switched to 14/52 gearing. Obviously I have further testing to do but I am now sure I'm going in the right direction!.. Pun intended

[Shadow7g]

SWEET! I got my ERBE now so im not even worried about the pede. I let my gf drive my pede today. It was her first run with a hobby grade R/C.. Man its so much more fun with 2 people... However i will eventually get around to doing the diff fluid. Im glad it works. I figured that was the issue. Glad that youre back up and running!