I bought a used revo 3.3 for $250 and after what I thought was going to just be a through cleaning turned up more, I tore down the rear end and trans I didn't even touch the front end. I decided it was going to be a better rout to just get a brand new one. Since I like to support my local hobby shop and after seeing it would cost over $250 just to replace every bearing, and parts to update the trans (I am a novice so reverse was the selling point for me) after the complete rebuild of the motor. So now I have a new motor and every part I think I could break on hand to fix it on the spot, so I will need to break two of the same part before I upgrade. I would think it would be cheaper in the long run, driving to the hobby shop or shipping cost all added in.
The truck came in blue which is the body I really wanted. Batteries are charging and will have to wait for a warm day to break it in, it was 28 degrees this morning and a high of 36 all day, but some 50 degree days are coming up this week. I will be running 30% sidewinder in it also because I can get it locally, would prefer the traxxas blend though, and getting them to stock it would take a lot to do other wise I would have to wait to get it. I like being able to get stuff in person quickly.
Upgrades that will happen soon are a wing, wheelie bar, and street tires in the summer because I will most likely run it on pavement the most (just to get in a run here or there with out leaving my barracks).
The sidewinder fuel states it dose not need an after run, I still plan to WD40 it any ways. After every run I plan to clean it, be at least a dust off. Any time it has seen water it will get a through scrub cleaning and oiling. Lastly with every gallon it will get a through tear down scrub and oiling. The hobby shop in town said they can get me an oil the dose not attract dust like WD40 dose. Preventive maintenance will make it last a lot longer. If any one thinks this is not enough please let me know, I like tinkering and making sure what I own runs top notch from scale to my 1:1.
I just finished reading the manual and watching the DVD. Dose any one else think that it might be worth updating it a little? I know the procedures are the same for the 2.5 and 3.3, but some of the electronics are newer and if someone is completely new to the hobby may be confused with the 27mh to the new 2.4gh, or at least add that to the current material.