3. Drive shafts
5. Shock towers
7. Knuckles & suspension
8. Skid plates
9. Steering mechanism
10. Wheels and tires
11. EVX, EVX2 & MMM speed controller
12. Nimh Batteries
13. Titan & NeuCastle motors
14. V-twin concept
15. BL system upgrades
16. Lipo & A123 batteries
17. Chargers & balancers
E-Revo & BL E-Revo
Stock E-revo uses a monocoque type molded chassis with integrated battery compartments, greatly increasing the overall strength and rigidity of the truck. The downside is that you are rather limited on the type and size of batteries that you can use. 7 cell side by side nimh packs fit fine, but you are restricted to 8000mah 2s, or 5000mah 3s lipo packs. In theory this sounds fine, but in reality if you are using a powerful BL motor and esc setup, you are forced into buying pricey high spec packs made from Enerland cells; you may not get such good results from over spec’d cheap Chinese cells that perform well with stock electronics or lower powered BL systems. Although the chassis is made from plastic so far there it has proven itself to be a quite robust design, thanks largely to the clever and rather beautiful skid plate that runs the full length of the chassis’ underside, tying it together with the bulks and skids. One potential weak area that has become apparent is the rear portion of the chassis that links to the bulkheads is prone to excessive flex if you jump the truck or bash hard. There is a fairly simple fix for this though & requires minimal modification; a spare suspension tie-rod can be bolted to the base of the wing mount & then bolted to a small plate attached over the rear shock-tower, thus stiffening up the chassis greatly. Up-top, the esc and radio are mounted on the battery compartments, a clever idea since there is plenty of room this way, but locating the esc in the correct place is critical as the battery leads may not reach if they are a little short. The BL Erevo has its MMM esc mounted in the best place to ensure the battery wires will reach- there are dual input connectors for running a pair of lipos in series ( no extra harness required ordinarily ). It is also worth noting that the holes in the battery compartments for the battery wires to exit may not line up perfectly with the battery leads, where they exit the lipo/ nimh packs, so a little light modification may be required.
There are two options, the 2.5 and 3.3 spec revo chassis. The 3.3 would be favourable since the longer wheelbase makes for better handling, and more room to mount the electronics etc. As for the specific conversion route, there are a handul of nice options:
• Emaxx tranny conversion (old or new model)
• Stock revo tranny with RC-Monster motor mount
• Stock revo tranny with TeknoRC (ImPaktRC) electri-clutch or standard pinion and motor mount
When using the emaxx tranny, you essentially just have to dremel the chassis a little to mount it, then come up with some battery trays depending on what you plan to run exactly. When using the stock transmission & rcm mount, you have two options:
• Lock the tranny into 2nd gear, and use motor braking via the esc
• Keep the 2spd, and use mechanical brakes
If you choose option 2, which also applies to the TeknoRC option, you are also able to use a forwards only esc, such as a heli or boat model; you may also need to use the ‘PiStix’ item, which converts the radio signal into something the esc can understand, as aero escs use different signal patterns to car/truck escs. In addition, when using either of these options, you are fairly limited to your battery mounting options, with only one side of the chassis free.
E-Revo & BL E-Revo
The stock transmission has been greatly strengthened with the use of steel idler gears that are wider and stronger. The transmission comes locked into 2nd gear as standard, handy for those who use BL power in their trucks. An optional 2speed kit is available that reinstates 1st gear, with a choice of close and wide ratio gear sets; top speed remains unaffected. The new transmission features a Revo spec slipper assembly that can be used with spurs ranging from 54tooth (jato 3.3) upto 68tooth that comes as standard in 32p (MOD 0.8). MOD1 spurs from the Revo can also be used provided a MOD1 pinion is also used- these are available from RC-Monster and RobinsonRacing as well as a few other places. The new transmission has been designed to allow the use of twin motors, as in the stock setup, or a single motor that can be mounted centrally- either with the stock motor mount or an option single motor mount and gear cover. The BL Erevo has the single motor mount & cover as standard & comes supplied with the CastleCreations NeuCastle 2200kv motor + 18/65 gearing. It is also worth noting that finned can motors (such as Neus) or larger diameter motors (Neus again, and KB45s) may be limited in their gearing range as the larger diameter cans may hit the transmission case before the pinion and spurs mesh correctly. With the lowered central motor mount there is the option to mount a large motor with a 30mm mounting pattern, such as the KB45 or larger brushed motors such as those sold by kershawdesigns and banebots etc.
The stock emaxx 3906 transmission is a 2 speed unit that is shifted via a servo; when used in a revo conversion, keeping the 2sp option is difficult, but not impossible. There are a few weak points to the design however, mainly concerning the slipper mechanism and idler gears. The stock slipper uses small pegs inserted into the spur gear and a spring loaded pressure plate to control torque delivery; the problem is too much slippage causes the slipper pegs to melt, and the spur will just spin and spin, without sending any power to the wheels, or the slipper plate will overheat causing the spur gear to melt in the center. Simple solution is to tighten the slipper fully, though this does add more stress to the driveline resulting in broken driveshafts and diffs. Best solution is to skip the out-dated 3906 transmission & opt for the much better 3905 spec transmission. This is slightly narrower than the 3906 version so will require a small mounting adapter along one side in order to fix it to the chassis, relatively simple with some basic hand tools & some 3mm thick aluminium. GorillaMaxx also sell a single speed conversion kit that removes 1st gear and half the transmission case, an ideal way to save weight and eliminate the shifting mechanism, though that still leaves you with the weak plastic idler gear and slipper mechanism- the best option to fix this is to modify the transmission to use the 3905 spec slipper assembly (CLICK HERE). Then, add an Unlimited Engineering ( UE ) or Rc-Monster steel idler. The Erevo spec tranny has all the same features as the Emaxx 3905 tranny. The stock nitro revo trannies are essentially fine, though there are various retailers offering upgraded gear sets and such. Locking the nitro tranny into 2nd gear is a painless enough job, and requires minimal work- see the links thread for a 'How-to' guide.
E-revo, BL E-Revo & Conversions
Very few people have reported issues with the new style of drive shafts, though they are still possible to twist and snap, especially in cold weather. Traxxas CVDs are a nice upgrade, though they themselves are not 100% bullet proof as the dogbone pin can snap under BL power. Being less aggressive on the brakes and throttle can reduce the amount of stress on these parts.
In all my years of studying revos and revo conversions, I have only ever seen one or two broken bulkheads, and the new E-revo uses an improved design for even greater strength, so no worries there. The usual source of problems comes from the possibility if broken rocker posts, that rarely sometimes snap of, leaving a stump poking out of the bulk- cheap to replace.
E-revo, BL E-Revo & Conversions
Since they only have to support the shell, they are much more durable and I’ve never seen a broken one, so again, no worries there. I would be inclined to say stick with stock or plastic models though, as aluminium versions will only transfer stress to more critical areas in a crash or flip.
E-revo, BL E-Revo and Conversions
Traxxas improved the design somewhat with a Revo type sealed diff and additional spider gear support, but the cup and case are still plastic. Unfortunately there are no aftermarket cases that will fit at present, though FLM sell a metal cup that will remove the flex of the stock setup. The only real option for bullet proof E-revo or revo diffs at present are the RC-Monster V2 hybrid diffs, that use 1/8scale buggy or truggy diffs, and fit in the stock bulkheads. You will also require dogbone cups that fit an 8mm output shaft, or the RCM adaptor that allows you to use the stock center shafts instead of dogbones. Another more complicated upgrade option is to modify ( dremel... ) the inside of the bulkheads to accept LOSI LST-2 or Muggy diffs- see the 'Truck Links' page for a link to some guides & examples.