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Even more porting questions
Hey guys, I'm in the process of attempting to port my engine. I removed the crank, but can't get the bearing out. I tried Eric's method of 250 degrees in the stove but it doesn't work. He's saying to heat the engine w/out the crank to 250 for 15 minutes. And then partially install the crank (does it matter which way, or from what side?) and then just pull the crank out, right? It didn't work. Also, I was wondering can an old sleeve be used as a guide when porting the block? When the sleeve is installed you can see perfectly where it needs to be ported to. I was thinking about using my old sleeve. Has anyone done this? Can you think of any reason why it won't work? Thanks again guys. I really appreciate all the help.
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If it's not muddy, it's not fun!!
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Well, I had a few problems removing that bearing as well. Try bumping up the temp slightly, 260. Make sure that you give the crank case enough time to heat to the 260 degrees. My suggestion is to make sure the oven is preheated. Also when installing the crank to take it out, you may have to give it a slight turn to one side in order to engage the bearing.
As far a the porting...when I did it, I had enough marking on the crank case itself to see where I needed to go. I don't see the harm in using an old sleeve, except that it could actually get in the way. What I did was just take my time and go slow. I kept washing out the crank case to remove the shavings, placing the sleeve back in to take measure, and continued with the porting after removing the sleeve again.
I hope this helped.
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RC10GT Hunter
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C'mon, somebody who has done this mod, let us know how to get the bearings out. i was afraid of this step. i am gonna port my engine too. i was thinking of getting a small pulley puller or a small bearing puller.
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When I did the porting to my engine, the crank would not come out. It was stuck in the bearing which was stuck in the crank case. I also heated it to 250 with no luck. Then I heated it to 260 and made sure to give it 5 or so extra minutes to ensure the crank case reached said temp. This ensures that max case expansion is achieved. After that, the bearing (with a bit of coaxing) came out of the crank case. It never released the crank itself. But that didn't matter to me since my goal was to get the bearing out of the case. So now you understand my reason for the heating advise. And perhaps you can reason why you may need to wedge the crank against the bearing to get it out. 
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RC10GT Hunter
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the bearing are very tight, some guys have heated the oven as high as 400 degrees and simply slapped the crank case on a board to drop them out or you can use a torch to expand the metal, either way. if its stuck try alittle more heat.
i used my sleeve as a reference, basicly checking my work. but i also had more then enough burns inside the engine to use as a guide.
later
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i didnt remove the bearings when i did it, I found a rubber p[lug that was just a little larger then the bearings and pushed it ontop of the inner bearing not one shaving made it past. Also as was said before take your time
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Nitro all the way
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I did the same as the Nitroaddict, I too had problems removing the bearings, (and got a funny look from my wife when I was baking an engine) so I left the bearings in and covered them while I did the port work. I did mine on a TRX 15 sport and it has allowed me to run with more power and has allowed me to run without the carb restrictor with lower temperatures.
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