I 'm going to race in 2 days, any suggestions for setups gearing...
i have a 13x2 and 17t gem motors, full bearings incuding the stearing, Peak vision stock motor, caster wedges, sway bars, and i will race ether mod or stock class( I can't decide!) an other stuff> its going to be in an empty concrete parking lot.
P.S. im going up against a lot of "Traxxas haters" so you know!!?
i also need general tips cause this is my first "true" race! like general time length of race. I noticed that i only get 3 a min. run time on my 2000 batts. with a 13t motor is that too short of a runtime? my gear ratio is:
28 pin/80-somthing (its the largest traxxas gear) spur. is that to high? if so what should it be?
First of all, 3 minutes on a 2000 pack is too short - with my 15x4 I'm getting ~6:00 on a 1700 and ~6:45 out of my 2000's. Most races I'm aware of run 5 minutes per heat. The quality of the packs doesn't seem to effect runtime as much as it effects 'punch' and overall voltage. I get amount of runtime out of my cheap 2000's as I get out of my $90 2000's - although the car is faster with the more exspensive cells.
If you are not properly charging your packs, or if you've had them awhile, it's possible they could be losing capacity and not charging completely. Your gearing is taller than stock, but I don't think it's tall enough to cut your runtime in half.
You said you were also wondering why your 17x1 and 13x2 motors seemed to go the same speed with the same gearing. If you have a bunch of runs on the 13x2 motor, it may be in need of a rebuild. As the comm and brushes wear down the motor loses rpms and power - if you get the comm turned and new brushes you can restore the lost performance. The 13x2 shouldn't have any problem turning the taller gearing and building rpms, which is what I first suspected when I read this. Instead it's got ~25% more torque than the 17x1.
Personally, I would gear the motor down - especially if it's a tight track with a lot of turns. It's more important to be fast in the turns instead of on the straight. Lower gearing will help you to accellerate out of the turns, better throttle steer, and will also increase braking performance.
If it's your first race, I would suggest starting out in stock class. Driving the car on a track, with walls and barriers you have to go around, not to mention the other cars on the track is a lot different than driving in an open area by yourself. You'll need to gain some experience (track time) to learn how to handle the new environment. I'll be easier to gain track time in a slower class because the car will easier to control and you won't have to adapt as quickly.
If possible, go to the track area on Saturday to get a feel for the track surface - figure out what type of setup you'll need for race day. It's not cheating - just seeking an unfair advantage...
http://www.geocities.com/ericperez_2000/nitropage.html - has a lot of stuff on setuting up a 4-Tec chassis. It's specifically for a Nitro 4-Tec, but the suspension is the same.
by the way the 13x2 motor is a brand new garnet speed gems, w/ the 3.5 arm, just got it new.
If you have never raced before Iwould recommend starting in the stock class with the gearing you currently have, stock class is a 5 min race. If you are destined to modified out a 23 or 24 pinion on. modified class is a 4 min race. I am a normal stock racer usually ran 30 pinion with 78 or 82 spur. When I did my first modified last race I used a 24/84 I probably could have altered the ratio a bit but it seemed fine, I came in 3rd and ended on the same lap as the winner. As for question with the different motors getting about the same speed, you are geared a little high for modied motors so the motor is probably heating up too much which hinders overall perforamnce of the motor. I find though in cooler temperatures you can get away with gearing a little higher than normal but not much higher.
Ya ain't driving till ya break it
i don't know if this will help, but even though it is a new motor it may be draining too much power out of the battery, this may be a fault in the motor, (yes even though it is new it may have this problem),
i think this could be a reason because I have had the same problem this weekend when my 14x3 was lasting about 3-4 mins on 2000 and a brand new 2400, and it is a problem with the motor ~(the motor is a 4 month old cann and a 3 week old armature)
Hello out there.
I just received my 4-tec electric kit and have a gearing question.
A friend of mine gave me a Reedy Firehawk motor and I'm going to use it in the 4-tec.
I'm not going to race it I'm more interested in cruzing around a wide open smooth as glass asphalt lot.
Question: What size pinion and supplied stock spur gear should I use. Any suggestions???
Thanks much see ya at the East Coast Hobby Show!
Heres a tip for a better response Hound, you should put the number of turns the motor has on the post, because knowledgeable people might not know the turns in your motor, therefore they wont answer where as if they had known how many turns the motor had they could help.