Results 1 to 24 of 24
  1. #1
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    11

    hello every one.

    Not sure where exactly to post this question but I am brand new to the R/C world and I have bought a stampede 4x4 with the 12t motor and am wondering what kind of upgrades I can add to it to make it a bit stronger. I live in an area that has loose/hard dirt, gravel, grass and rock's of all sizes. I have been using it for roughly 12 hours since yesterday. I do not like how long the battery lasts, at most 20 minutes I was hoping to get something more along the lines of 60+ minutes on one single charge of use. I would like a battery that can live up to what I want I am not worried about the price of the battery as long as its not over 150 dollars.

  2. #2
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    101
    A 2s lipo battery will last you around how long you are looking for. However, your motor will get warm and wear quickly especially since it's the brushed motor. Just a heads up

  3. #3
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Penticton, BC
    Posts
    63
    Upgrades to get right away are the Aluminum bearing adapter for the slipper clutch, aluminum shock caps and driveshafts. Otherwise upgrade to RPM parts as you break them for best durability. Other good upgrades are sway bars, tires, aluminum motor mount (I prefer king headz but Traxxas is good too), and a brushless system. The Titan works on 4x4 but is a bit under powered and tends to not last too long. Something like the new VXL 4 pole system or a Castle Creations system are what most use.

    As for batteries... You can go with a bigger mah NiMh battery, or go Lipo. If you go Lipo you will need to get a charger for it as well. I've got SPC lipo batteries, 2s 5000mah 50c ones and they last about 35-45 minutes depending on how hard I'm running. Each battery costs about $30-$40, and a decent starting charger (Hitec X1) is about $60. You can go with a larger battery for more run time. I think SPC has an 8600mah battery for about $80. That should give probably about an hour of run time. I don't know how much you know about Lipos, but they need a lot more care than NiMh.

    If you get Lipo batteries, brushless would be the best upgrade. Even just a 2c (7.4 volt) battery tends to burn out the titan brushes motor even faster. If you have any questions on Lipos or brushless.. or anything else for that matter.. Everyone here is always happy to help and usually knows their stuff!

  4. #4
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Brazoria, Texas
    Posts
    1,104
    Quote Originally Posted by Darrath View Post
    If you go Lipo you will need to get a charger for it as well. I've got SPC lipo batteries, 2s 5000mah 50c ones and they last about 35-45 minutes depending on how hard I'm running. Each battery costs about $30-$40, and a decent starting charger (Hitec X1) is about $60. You can go with a larger battery for more run time. I think SPC has an 8600mah battery for about $80. That should give probably about an hour of run time. I don't know how much you know about Lipos, but they need a lot more care than NiMh.

    If you get Lipo batteries, brushless would be the best upgrade. Even just a 2c (7.4 volt) battery tends to burn out the titan brushes motor even faster. If you have any questions on Lipos or brushless.. or anything else for that matter.. Everyone here is always happy to help and usually knows their stuff!


    Sounds like ya want a crawler of sorts to navigate the rocky terrain best. And slight correction is the spcracing.com lipo is a 8200mah 2 cell (2s) lipo. With lipo, each cell is 3.7v where as NIMH is 1.2v per cell. The hitec x1ac plus is great starting charger. The extra work needed with lipo's can be easily done with that charger. The main thing with lipo is to put it in storage voltage (3.8v per cell) if you plan to not use it for more than three days. This prevents damage to the individual cells of the battery which could lead to the battery becoming "puffed" and/or cause a fire. When charging a lipo, be sure to allow room for the charger and battery to breathe. I don't suggest setting it on anything flammable during charging. Lipo batteries don't get hot when charging or discharging unless there is a cell imbalance or fault in the battery.
    I also highly suggest balancing your lipo after every charge. I have a traxxas 7600mah 2s that I have most always balance charged and it has been used at least 15 times with no puffing or signs of possible battery failure.

    I'm sure others will chime in on vehicle specific upgrades but for runtime, I would suggest the spcracing.com 8200mah 2s lipo and hitec x1 acdc plus charger. And welcome to the forum!
    Last edited by ManDime; 09-12-2014 at 02:07 PM.
    Revo 2.5 upgraded to 3.3.

  5. #5
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    11
    Thank you, it has the XL-5 ESC Titan 12T550 motor 7 cell Nimh battery. I would like to also be able to get it to have all aluminium parts or parts that will last a long time, as for the battery I run my truck most of the time at full throttle do to being out in a very open area with different types of terrain. I know what I want but I am not sure what I need to get what I am wanting. I am not wanting a rock crawler per say oi want a truck that can handle the bigger rocks but can go very fast if i want to. I also would like to run a bit of a softer and wider tire as well. I am also wondering about adding a spacer to the wheel to make the truck about 2 inch's wider in total front and rear. I really hope I have not wasted my money on this truck and am wanting something that it cannot simply do.

    1)What would be the best brushless motor and esc control to put in it as I upgrade?

    2) what is the longest lasting lipo that will give me also 1 hour of run time?

    3) what would be the best tire be for hard/soft dirt, gravel, and rocks of no more then 6 inch's tall?

    4) Is the ESC a needed component in order to keep the stampede moving?

    5) Would it also benefit me to replace the plastic part in the slipper clutch to metal, if so what type of metal?
    Last edited by Brian Ludden; 09-12-2014 at 03:33 PM.

  6. #6
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Penticton, BC
    Posts
    63
    If you have any chance of doing any jumping or hard bashing, aluminum will bend. RPM parts are very durable, cheap, and have a lifetime warranty I believe. That will probably be the best way to make the truck more durable.

    1. Castle Creations Mamba max pro or SCT combos are good for the pede. Also the new 4 pole VXL is nice.

    2. There are 10,000 MAH lipos out there, but they tend to be very expensive. Gens ace has one, and a few other companies do that I don't have experience with. Usually in the 150-250$ range for those. They will give you a lot of run time, but you will need the battery expansion for the pede. Getting 2-4 5000 mah batteries is cheaper and all you have to do it swap a battery every 40 minutes.


    3. I'd go with the Proline Trenchers for a good all around tire. Good traction with good life. Otherwise there is the Mashers and Badlands from proline as well. Mashers and Badlands wear out fast on pavement.

    4. The ESC is needed yes. It controls the motor, and power for the entire vehicle.

    5.The plastic bearing adapter melts after a while of hard running and the slipper clutch slipping. Traxxas sells an aluminum one for fairly cheap. That is what you want.

    Also if going brushless, get metal driveshafts. MIP Xduty or Teknos are some of the best. MIPS are definitely beefier, but need to be assembled properly with thread lock to work. I'd suggest MIPs.
    Last edited by Darrath; 09-12-2014 at 03:45 PM.

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Alicante, Spain
    Posts
    522
    i would get the funny car motor and the new version traxxas esc if you want it to be waterproof. if you dont mind that, then get the funny car combo or the mamba max pro witch is the same. if you going brushless i would go with mip's driveshafts and mip 17mm adapter. and if you buy this things above i would get the pro-line trenchers 2.8 tires and the rpm revolver's stablemaxx wheels.
    NOTE: only get the mip 17mm if you going rpm revolver wheels
    Slash 4x4, P4de, Slash 2wd, almost ERBE

  8. #8
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    11
    Thank you both. The pede came with spring spacers right now it has 8 mm only on the front it came with those on it, it also has the 4,2 and 1 mm spacers what do they do? i would like to test them each out but i also do not want to ruin my new truck.

    I would like to go all water proof if possible i know nothing is ever 100% water proof at least that's my belief.

    Do they make 5,000 MaH nimh batteries? and is it possible to do that with the nimh batteries?
    Last edited by Brian Ludden; 09-12-2014 at 04:29 PM.

  9. #9
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Brazoria, Texas
    Posts
    1,104
    The p4de will need the castle sct combo of the esc and 3800kv to get the best temps for what you plan to do. The spc 8200mah lipo will give an hour at 3/4 throttle and you wont need a battery expansion kit. I think the proline mashers or trenchers will work great. The mashers will last longer but the trenchers are the "jack of all trades". A new esc is need when upgrading to brushless as the brushed esc will go up in a puff of the magic dragon 🐲. The clutch shoes can be upgraded to aluminum and that is a great upgrade for brushless but is not necessary.
    When it comes to aluminum as an upgrade, avoid integy. I had the whole kit of integy stuff on my slash 4x4 which is the same that goes on the stampede 4x4 and they were NOT an upgrade. They weren't terrible either like others say. The issue is that I would roll my slash and it would strip the turnbuckles which messing with steering and handling. RPM rod ends would fix that but its not worth it. I would suggest RPM arms all around instead with aluminum front "c" block and knuckle and aluminum hub for the rear from Traxxas.
    As for driveshafts, it depends on the motor and wheels. The bigger the wheel, the more strain on the driveline. The proline trencher 2.8 with the sct 3800kv shouldn't break drive shafts often enough. Plus driveshafts are cheaper than a full set of MIP, Tekno, or XO-1 driveshafts.
    Revo 2.5 upgraded to 3.3.

  10. #10
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    11
    The pede came with spring spacers right now it has 8 mm only on the front it came with those on it, it also has the 4,2 and 1 mm spacers what do they do? i would like to test them each out but i also do not want to ruin my new truck.

  11. #11
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Penticton, BC
    Posts
    63
    I assume you mean the shock preload spacers? Those just stiffen the suspension. I put the big ones all around on my pede for bashing. Seems to be good. Its safe to play around with those and find whats best for you.

    You will definitely want MIPS or Teknos. Stock shafts may last a few runs, but you figure roughly 10-15$ for 2 full driveshafts, youll get 6-10 sets of 2 stockers for the price of a full set of MIPs. So if you break 4 driveshafts every week, you would only get a month or so out of the same money for MIPs that would last years. I was breaking driveshafts almost every run on the stock VXL system with 2s lipo. Slipper slightly tight but still, gotta do wheelies!
    Last edited by Darrath; 09-12-2014 at 05:09 PM.

  12. #12
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    11
    Thank you Darrath.

  13. #13
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    11
    I would like to also run a couple of light bars on the truck for night driving, as well as a wireless video camera.

    Will i need to custom fab my own light bar?

    What brand cam will stand up to heavy abuse?

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Erie, PA
    Posts
    702
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Ludden View Post
    I would like to also run a couple of light bars on the truck for night driving, as well as a wireless video camera.

    Will i need to custom fab my own light bar?

    What brand cam will stand up to heavy abuse?
    You can buy light bars but will have to custom fit to the P4de. http://www.rpphobby.com/category_s/389.htm GearHead makes great stuff and led lights run off 5.0-6.0v making them an easy plug and play. Just plug into empty channel on the receiver. They also have mounting brackets. Traxxas does make led lights for the front bumper, but not that bright. Keep in mind, anything on the roof or hood will be damaged when rolling over. Unless your trail running, driving at night is hard and potentially dangerous. I would only do so, if in a huge open field with no objects or people around.

    The GoPro camera is pretty tough, and lots of accessories to go along with the camera, making it very versatile...
    The message above or below may or may not be true

  15. #15
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    North Tonawanda, NY
    Posts
    78
    Watch out with the 10,000mah LiPo, that sucker is HEAVY. Saw one rip my buddies expansion kit and ESC right out of his truck on a lower speed cartwheel crash. They can be found under $100 though.

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Wales in the UK
    Posts
    5,458
    All the guy's have given you awesome advice dude but welcome to the forum and addiction my friend and just have fun....peace
    Famous last words...watch this!!!!

  17. #17
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    11
    after running it around and playing with the suspension i have decided to make it a crawler that can also do the original speed from the factory. I have a giant rock garden on my property and after watching it play on it i would like to keep the frs aspect but also be able to make it control much better on the rocks, dirt, sand, gravel, mud and snow. any ideas? I really like how soft the suspension is after i moved the shocks.

    The video camera will hopefully be mounted under the shell of the pede. I am also trying to figure out a good exo roll cage for when I do roll it in the rocks and such. that way the cam is completely protected so i can post the vids up on youtube when i am ready to do so.


    Should i still run brushless with what i am trying to accomplish?

    i am buying the side winder 3 combo and 2.8 inch all terrain tires with it. i am also hoping i can either buy a locker for it or make one, i can fab my own parts i have done it for my toyota in the past. I do not like the limited slip that came with the pede at all i think that is a joke and needs to be replaced with a locker.
    Last edited by Brian Ludden; 09-13-2014 at 05:01 PM.

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    336
    There is a locker for the diffs i think I have one laying around that came with my sons slash he got from a guy. But it's all time locker you can't do like what can be done with the summit

    The name of it is diff spool. Traxxas makes one and hot racing makes one
    Last edited by Er33; 09-13-2014 at 07:28 PM.

  19. #19
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    11
    thank you Er33
    I-F-R-S crawler

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Erie, PA
    Posts
    702
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Ludden View Post

    Should i still run brushless with what i am trying to accomplish?
    If your trying to crawl with the p4de and wanting to go brushless, go with a sensored brushless motor and a ESC that can support a brushless motor. A sensor less brushless motor tend to cog when going slow. I would just stick to a brushed motor if just wanting to go slow. Also check out a Gear Reduction Unit (GRU) for good go slow control.

    I have heard of people putting silly puddy into the diff gears to lock them. The limited slip that came with the P4de is set up for bashing, what 99% of us do with it, bash. The beauty of the P4de is the versatility. You can set it up for many forms of driving, including crawling. Although I think a Wraith or Yeti would be more up your alley. Don't forget by fully locking the diffs, your turning radius will be dramatically bigger...
    The message above or below may or may not be true

  21. #21
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Brazoria, Texas
    Posts
    1,104
    So you want a rock racer p4de? As suggested, a sensored setup is a great way to start. Look into 10.5t, and 8.5t sensored combos to keep the speed and be able to speed down the streets. They can range from $80-150 for the average quality ones. I would suggest using play-doh puddy in the diffs. This gives I a near locked feel. Its comparable to 300k diff oil. It's an easy and cheap fix.
    Revo 2.5 upgraded to 3.3.

  22. #22
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    11
    what is the difference between the 10.5 t and 8.5 t sensored combos. I have read about them but it all looks like gibberish to me
    I-F-R-S crawler

  23. #23
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Brazoria, Texas
    Posts
    1,104
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Ludden View Post
    what is the difference between the 10.5 t and 8.5 t sensored combos. I have read about them but it all looks like gibberish to me

    8.5t can be anywhere from 3500kv to 4000kv and 10.5 can be under 3500kv to 3000kv I believe. The 8.5t will give you the best speed but its temps will be a little higher than the 10.5t.
    Revo 2.5 upgraded to 3.3.

  24. #24
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    11
    I am interested in putting JB weld on the differential in the front and back of my pede but I would like to know how long it is going to hold and what will happen if I do that.

    1) what will break first.

    2) what will I need to do to build the breaking point where i want it.

    3) whats the difference between jb weld and buying an actual locker.

    4) what woudl be a good oil to add to the dif to keep it cooler do to the addition of the jb weld?
    Last edited by Brian Ludden; 09-14-2014 at 05:03 PM.
    I-F-R-S crawler

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •