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  1. #1
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    EZrun + Velineon = HELP ?

    Hey fellas, Sorry that I haven't been on the forums much but...

    I picked up a cheap EZRun 9T motor, I soldered on connectors so the Velineon motors wires would work with the EZrun...

    Before:


    After:


    So my problem is that it seems that once I accelerate... It stutters and sounds like the slipper slips (sort of) and once I get going, its fine....

    Whats might be wrong? Thanks.
    Rustler VXL | Slash | Stampede 4x4

  2. #2
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    Well first off the exposed connectors are a big problem waiting to happen. The vibration could be shorting the wires out and will quickly either burn out the ESC or the motor.

  3. #3
    RC Racer
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    Did you change the connectors on the motor? Because in motors like that where the wires come out of the motor (instead of having solder tabs) the wires are actually a part of the winding. If the length of these wires changes even a tiny bit the motor won't work properly.
    -Stregone

  4. #4
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    If you accellerate slowly, or try to drive slowly, that's "normal".. it's not a sensored setup, so you get cogging at low speeds with a cheap motor.

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    So if you give it full throttle off the bat it doesn't do it but if you go really slow? Or when you try to take off normally?

  6. #6
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    In that type of motor, the wires are very important. They are actually part of the windings. So if you cut the wires to solder on new connectors, you are screwed. The only way I could see doing it is getting a connector set for those 4mm bullet connectors and traxxas's 3.5mm, and making an adapter so you don't have to cut the esc/motor wires.
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  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. streetdemon's Avatar
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    You most likely have a poor connection or a short where those exposed wires are.
    Some like R/C's that are fast, others like nitro

  8. #8
    Marshal Dadx2mj's Avatar
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    I would suspect a bad connection or the exposed connectors are causing the issues.

    On this shortening the wire thing, I am not sure I buy that. Castle motors are the same way where the wires go right to the windings and I have shortened them with no ill effects. Has long as the wires are the same length I believe it is ok to shorten them.
    BlindMan Racing
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  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. streetdemon's Avatar
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    But dad are the castle wires not the much softer more flexible wire? Yes they go straight TO the winding but they aren't the ACTUAL windings like the ezrun, feigao, hobbywing stuff.
    Some like R/C's that are fast, others like nitro

  10. #10
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    If the wires had any influence, then it would be impossible to connect them to an ESC without the manufacturer specifying the exact length of the ESC wires. As soon as you plug them in, you extend the wires.. depending on the car, you may only need 2 inches to reach the ESC, or 5, or more, or less.

  11. #11
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    Yes dad, the castle motors connect to the windings but are not the actual windings themselves. When you change the length of the actual windings it can really mess up the motor.
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  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Emaxx2.0's Avatar
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    The problem is the EZ-Run motor itself. It uses a way smaller size rotor then a true 540size brushless motor. Also it being used in the heavy Slash isn't helping. So, sensorless(has a slight cogging by natural) + a motor that isn't a true 540sized BL motor + a heavy Slash = Bad cogging. Plus you want to cover the connectors seperately.
    And to Dad. Castle motors are ok to shorten the wires up to a certain length. The wires are connected to the windings.
    Simply the best. The beautiful Traxxas SRT and TCP

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. streetdemon's Avatar
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    Well that motor in particular doesn't, but the X.5 winding motors are true 540 size. The other thing to consider is that many have used them with no issues. You will need to gear lower to compensate however. I believe that a lot of the Novak motors do/used to use smaller rotors than your typical 540 BL setup.
    Some like R/C's that are fast, others like nitro

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Emaxx2.0's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by streetdemon
    Well that motor in particular doesn't, but the X.5 winding motors are true 540 size. The other thing to consider is that many have used them with no issues. You will need to gear lower to compensate however. I believe that a lot of the Novak motors do/used to use smaller rotors than your typical 540 BL setup.
    Actually. Novak and other manufactures(including Tekin) SENSORED BASE motors uses the smaller rotor b/c of the larger stator and HAL effect sensor inside the sensored motor. A sensorless motor uses a larger rotor b/c it's easier for the ESC to location the position of the rotor and help fire the coils to reduce the cogging. Sensored motors have worst cogging problems from a dead start when used in sensorless operation then a sensorless motor. The best is ssensored start then sensorless operation. The smaller rotor helps with the rpms, especially when you start working the timing. These EZ-Run full turn motors are using rotor the same sizes if not slighty smaller then the high quality sensored motors we see on the market.
    Simply the best. The beautiful Traxxas SRT and TCP

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dadx2mj
    I would suspect a bad connection or the exposed connectors are causing the issues.

    On this shortening the wire thing, I am not sure I buy that. Castle motors are the same way where the wires go right to the windings and I have shortened them with no ill effects. Has long as the wires are the same length I believe it is ok to shorten them.
    For example, if you take off the endcap of a Velineon motor, you see there are soldering terminals where the wires connect to the motor. This kind of motor is OK to shorten the wires on. If the wires are directly connected, with no soldering, you cannot shorten them.

    Motors with wires that can be shortened:
    Castle
    Tekin
    Velineon

    Motors with wires that can't:
    Feiago
    EZRun
    Tacon
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