Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 81
  1. #1
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Durham, North Carolina, USA
    Posts
    382

    After 14 months, its finished! :)

    Hi guys, I finally have my custom built brushless E-Revo up and running!!! I originally started the project of building my E-Revo just over 14 months ago! Ever since then, I’ve been slowly buying pieces for it, part by part, as funds allowed. I’ve already had a chance to put a few sets of lipos through it and it sure is a BLAST! A few of the major accessories include, the Castle Creations 1518 1Y 1800kv motor, 6s 5800 ********* lipos, custom made (by me) 7071 5mm aluminum motor plate, and Futaba 3PMX radio. The set up has TONS of power and seems to run forever (at least 30minute runtimes). When geared 21/62 (apprx 45mph), it does 1 ˝ standing backflips with ease, and I think if I put the pushrods in the innermost holes in the arms (currently set in the middle hole), it would be able to do a double standing backflip. I built this tuck with a few things in mind. I wanted it to look cool, be light, and to be strong. I believe that I have accomplished that.


    Here’s the extensive mod list:

    Castle Creations 1518 1Y 1800kv motor
    Caslte Creations CC blower
    6 ********* 11.1v 5800mah lipos
    Mamba Monster ESC
    Ace digital DS1015 servo (awesome servo btw!)
    Futaba 3PMX radio
    Proline Paddle tires on dish wheels
    Proline Mashers on RPM Revolvers
    Imex All T’s on E-Revo stock wheels
    Proline Road Rages on Jconcepts Rulux wheels
    Proline Badlands tires on Jconcepts Rulux wheels
    Proline Slipstream body painted by me
    Upgrade RC radio skin
    Custom made (by me) 5mm 7075 aluminum motor plate. Motor flex is no longer an issue since its about 5x as strong
    Full set of Traxxas CVD’s which work great just as long as you don’t use RPM arms J
    Golden Horizons front and read differential aluminum cases
    ST racing 17mm hubs with the threaded bass insert mod to stop wheel wobble
    Hot Racing aluminum knuckles
    RD logics aluminum rockers with P1,P2, and P3 holes drilled in them
    Titanium pillow balls
    Lunsford titanium push rods
    Lunsford titanium turnbuckles
    Used to have a full set of RPM arms on, but they flexed too much for the CVD’s to work properly
    Traxxas VDP pistons
    Traxxas swaybars
    Traxxas T-Maxx brake disk in the slipper clutch (works waaaaaaaaaaaay better IMO)
    Aluminum shock mounts
    Racers edge crimping servo horn
    Proline steering arm deanodized and polished
    Traxxas wheelie bar wheels deanodized and polished
    Front/rear bulkhead braces deanodized and polished
    RPM front and rear bumpers with RPM front bumper mount
    Custom made carbon fiber rear body brace
    Traxxas exocarbon wing, don’t spend the extra money on this. The paint chips.

    I’m sure I missed a few of the mods.


    That's enough of the yappin' pics to follow in next post.......
    Last edited by mamba max1; 08-17-2010 at 07:25 PM.
    BL E-Revo-After 14months, its done!*
    (yeah right)

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Durham, North Carolina, USA
    Posts
    382






    continued........
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 08-18-2010 at 10:37 PM.
    BL E-Revo-After 14months, its done!*
    (yeah right)

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Durham, North Carolina, USA
    Posts
    382
    I also went to as far as to de-annodize and polish the front and rear bulkhead braces (pictured above) and the wheelie-bar wheels. They look sweeeeeeeeeet.



    before/after polish



    tires mounted



    on the truck

    While building my E-Revo, I also built a “charge box” for both keeping my Hyperion DuoIII charger safe, and for charging my lipos. I LOVE the Duo. In 30minutes, it will charge two of my 5800 lipos up to 95%, and in about 42min, they are complete. Having the charge box really makes carrying the charger around very easy and keeps things tidy.



    continued............
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 08-18-2010 at 10:46 PM.
    BL E-Revo-After 14months, its done!*
    (yeah right)

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Durham, North Carolina, USA
    Posts
    382




    Charging


    Please keep all images to a width of 640 pixels or less. To do this, you must edit the image before you upload the picture to your host or edit the photo in your host.
    I have changed the image(s) to clickable thumbnail(s) so that people don't have to scroll to read the thread. You can also upload clickable thumbnails that can be selected to view the photo at the original resolution.
    -ksb51rl
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 08-18-2010 at 10:50 PM.
    BL E-Revo-After 14months, its done!*
    (yeah right)

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Sault Ste Marie Ontario
    Posts
    283
    i think this is the nicest erbe i have ever seen :O, how much did all of this cost you if you dont mind me asking

    EDIT: wheres the vid? lol
    ERBE
    Havoc 8.5t Slash
    SC10 VXL
    Bark River Slash

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Bloomington, Minnesota
    Posts
    390
    WOW! Amazing truck man. Really diggn the custom motor mount. Great work on everything.
    _____________________
    ERBE/RUSTY VXL/ALIAS

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Durham, North Carolina, USA
    Posts
    382
    Quote Originally Posted by mav8686
    i think this is the nicest erbe i have ever seen :O, how much did all of this cost you if you dont mind me asking

    EDIT: wheres the vid? lol

    Thanks. I was beginning to get tired of building it, I just wanted to drive! I have no idea how much it cost me all together....my guess 2.5-3k. (including all 5 sets of tires, batteries, and charger)
    BL E-Revo-After 14months, its done!*
    (yeah right)

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    NewYork
    Posts
    575
    Look's sick man i like how far it has come and great idea with the charge box , you bought my road rages from me off rctech , when do we get to see a pic of those ? LoL ... I sold my e revo , kinda miss it but the slash 4x4 2650kv mmm has been fun for me for the time being...

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    England
    Posts
    5,791
    Blimey, thats a dreamy looking custom erevo if ever there was one- well done & congrats on such a great build. Cant wait to see it in action.
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    704
    Very very nice build, I am very impressed. You have every upgrade that you should have by the book! Excellent work my friend! I hope he is going to give you tons of fun for many many problem free hours.

    And now to the questions. Are you using the GH diff housings or the GH diff cups? The Revo´s stock diff problem have I found related to the plastic cups, they flex AND the screws are backing out a half turn, (even with glue) and then the ring gear strips.

    Are your tires taped? And haven´t you had any diff problems on it ever since it came togheter? And for how long have you been running 6s?

    Fabolus work on the motor mount. Once again. Perfectly executed and great mokeup on that rig!
    Last edited by Manne; 08-17-2010 at 07:46 PM.

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Durham, North Carolina, USA
    Posts
    382
    Quote Originally Posted by ArmyofDarkness
    Blimey, thats a dreamy looking custom erevo if ever there was one- well done & congrats on such a great build. Cant wait to see it in action.

    Thanks! I do plan on posting vids in the future. I have a keychain camera for onboard vids. B)
    BL E-Revo-After 14months, its done!*
    (yeah right)

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Durham, North Carolina, USA
    Posts
    382
    Quote Originally Posted by Manne
    Very very nice build, I am very impressed. You have every upgrade that you should have by the book! Excellent work my friend! I hope he is going to give you tons of fun for many many problem free hours.

    And now to the questions. Are you using the GH diff housings or the GH diff cups? The Revo´s stock diff problem have I found related to the plastic cups, they flex AND the screws are backing out a half turn, (even with glue) and then the ring gear strips.

    Are your tires taped? And haven´t you had any diff problems on it ever since it came togheter? And for how long have you been running 6s?

    Fabolus work on the motor mount. Once again. Perfectly executed and great mokeup on that rig!

    haha, thanks. I guess when your waiting for 14months to drive, you have plenty of time to think about everything.

    I'm currently using the GH diff housings. I WAS using some aluminum diff cups from ebay. Unfortunately, they used smaller screws. This resulted in the motor shearing all 4 in the rear diff cup at once.

    All the tires are taped, but I don't like it for off roading. I like them being taped for the street, but taped aff-road tires limit backflips. I'll probably be taking the tape out int the future.

    I have had one other diff problem. The front bearings literally exploded in the rear diff, but I think that was a fluke (happened in the first 15min. of running). I quickly replaced them, and it hasn't happened since (put at least 4 hours in it so far)

    I plan to always run 6s. That's why I went with the 1518 motor, it has a 1800kv rating. B)
    BL E-Revo-After 14months, its done!*
    (yeah right)

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    704
    Thanks for all the answers. About the taped tires, I have read more people likening un taped tires more for offroad running and jumping ( more gyro effect) so I think I´ll stick to untaped if i´m going 5 or 6s.

    I will follow the tread to see if any new diffproblems will pop up and to see the vids .

    I am amazed that the plastic cups is holding for more then one run on 6s, especialy with standing backflips

    I hope it keeps performing

  14. #14
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Winnipeg, Canada
    Posts
    1,048
    Sweet Revo man

    Excellent parts selection too
    MBX5T|MMM/2200kv|16/46|Hitec 7955TG|KingHeadz

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Planet Earth
    Posts
    928
    You're the man Bobby! Nice build....
    **I hope there are RCs in Heaven; EMBE + 6S FTW!**

  16. #16
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Jacksonville,FL
    Posts
    147
    I dont like it at all.... Redo it... Lol Sweet truck man that thing is super clean! Now go out and bash it! Video plz!
    -Jato3.3--Merv-

  17. #17
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Catskill, NY
    Posts
    737
    Heaps and heaps of kudos for a job well done!! Just wow...
    The body just tops it all off perfectly.

    Maybe I missd it in your list... whats the info of the brace b/t the rear shock mount to the rear body mount?

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    301
    Quote Originally Posted by Maxx Voltage
    Maybe I missd it in your list... whats the info of the brace b/t the rear shock mount to the rear body mount?
    Its a stock erevo pushrod minus the spacers, see pic of mine below, looks much nicer painted black like on manne's .



    I run tekno sways which give a plate between the shock mounts to mount the front pivot ball screw to, but manne and others running traxxas bars make a plate out of carbon fibre or ali. I have fitted mine with a long enough screw to thread into the chassis to provide extra strength.

    Best chassis brace mod ever. so simple yet so effective.

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    863
    Awesome build! Man how did you manage to hold off for 14 months! I have the 1518 in mine too and got carried away with the de-anodizing as I de-anodized just about everything I could on it. Nice work!
    MBX6T CC 1520
    CF Sav Flux CC 1520
    MERV Neu 1112

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Durham, North Carolina, USA
    Posts
    382
    Quote Originally Posted by Manne
    Thanks for all the answers. About the taped tires, I have read more people likening un taped tires more for offroad running and jumping ( more gyro effect) so I think I´ll stick to untaped if i´m going 5 or 6s.

    I will follow the tread to see if any new diffproblems will pop up and to see the vids .

    I am amazed that the plastic cups is holding for more then one run on 6s, especialy with standing backflips

    I hope it keeps performing

    Thanks! Sure is a blast! In order to help fund this project, I actually sold my pride and joy rustler a while back. It had 1HP and was a BLAST to drive. Here is a vid I made a while back: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYFPbDynnR0

    Quote Originally Posted by freeagent
    Sweet Revo man

    Excellent parts selection too
    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by makaveli72
    You're the man Bobby! Nice build....
    lol, the name is Andrew. Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by AirdaleDucky
    I dont like it at all.... Redo it... Lol Sweet truck man that thing is super clean! Now go out and bash it! Video plz!
    Thanks! I do plan on making a video soon!

    Quote Originally Posted by Maxx Voltage
    Heaps and heaps of kudos for a job well done!! Just wow...
    The body just tops it all off perfectly.

    Maybe I missd it in your list... whats the info of the brace b/t the rear shock mount to the rear body mount?
    Thanks! Out of all the bodies I've painted, its my favorite IMO. The rear brace is a piece of carbon fiber (screwed to the shock mount) with a 5mm carbon rod as the brace.

    Quote Originally Posted by Nogas
    Its a stock erevo pushrod minus the spacers, see pic of mine below, looks much nicer painted black like on manne's .

    I run tekno sways which give a plate between the shock mounts to mount the front pivot ball screw to, but manne and others running traxxas bars make a plate out of carbon fibre or ali. I have fitted mine with a long enough screw to thread into the chassis to provide extra strength.

    Best chassis brace mod ever. so simple yet so effective.
    It's actually a carbon rod (see above in post). I do agree that its a very important, yet simple mod. Sure saves the rear tower!

    Quote Originally Posted by LiqrSicc
    Awesome build! Man how did you manage to hold off for 14 months! I have the 1518 in mine too and got carried away with the de-anodizing as I de-anodized just about everything I could on it. Nice work!
    Thanks! It drove me crazy having to wait so long. Since I had to sell my beloved rustler to help fund, until now, I haven't driven a R/C car in about a year. That drove me crazy also! lol
    Last edited by mamba max1; 08-18-2010 at 09:27 PM.
    BL E-Revo-After 14months, its done!*
    (yeah right)

  21. #21
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    301
    Quote Originally Posted by mamba max1

    It's actually a carbon rod (see above in post). I do agree that its a very important, yet simple mod. Sure saves the rear tower!
    Carbon mmmmmmmm love carbon

    Nice work!

  22. #22
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Planet Koozbane
    Posts
    190
    How did you join the extra caps, are they soldered directly to the esc cap bank? Are they burn marks on the top of you battery charge box? Nice build btw very clean
    I need more R/C cash.....

  23. #23
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Land of the Leprechaun
    Posts
    2,187
    very well done! also was curious about the extra caps, I had to take a second look at mine first as I was thinking "Hey, I don't have those?!?!?" lol. Thought it was a new version or something.

    I love the motor plate, very well done. I was just in the process of adding a second motor plate of carbon fibre to the existing stock on to stiffen it up but I like your design much better. Unfortunately I don't have the tools/know how for that.
    infowars.com

  24. #24
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Durham, North Carolina, USA
    Posts
    382
    Quote Originally Posted by bigfol
    How did you join the extra caps, are they soldered directly to the esc cap bank? Are they burn marks on the top of you battery charge box? Nice build btw very clean
    They are soldered to the power wires of the ESC. Those are burn marks on the charge box. Originally the lid didn't shut (charger was too tall) so I took a lighter and softened up the plastic to stretch it out. I wasn't about to toss the box after all of that work!

    Quote Originally Posted by Tiernan85
    very well done! also was curious about the extra caps, I had to take a second look at mine first as I was thinking "Hey, I don't have those?!?!?" lol. Thought it was a new version or something.

    I love the motor plate, very well done. I was just in the process of adding a second motor plate of carbon fiber to the existing stock on to stiffen it up but I like your design much better. Unfortunately I don't have the tools/know how for that.
    Thanks! Anybody can do it. I only used a Dremel, tungsten carbide bit, and the router attachment for the Dremel. Took about 3 days to make, or about 6hrs. The cutting was very very sloooooooooow going. 7075 aluminum is VERY strong and it was a 5mm piece. Poor ole' Dremel got a workout! I originally was going to make a carbon fiber plate, but I then realized I'd loose the heat-sinking effect. That plate usually runs only 20 degrees cooler than the motor.



    I can take a close up of how I attached the caps. Just let me know.
    Last edited by mamba max1; 08-19-2010 at 11:27 AM.
    BL E-Revo-After 14months, its done!*
    (yeah right)

  25. #25
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Land of the Leprechaun
    Posts
    2,187
    hmm.... yea I have a dremel, where did you get the chunk of aluminum from? and if you don't mind me asking, how much was it?

    Would also like to see a bit more in relation to the caps if you don't mind

    cheers
    Jon
    infowars.com

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    England
    Posts
    5,791
    Caps is simple enough, just wire them in parallel to the esc's battery wires, close to the esc as possible. You'd be wanting some 35v, low esr, 105*C, ~2000uf caps if you wanted to use a pair; the larger the caps though, the bigger the spark will be when you connect the battery up, so bare that in mind.
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  27. #27
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    High Point, N.C.
    Posts
    102
    that motor mount is sweet, nice erbe, very well done!
    Race Hard! Ask Questions Later!!

  28. #28
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Planet Koozbane
    Posts
    190
    Quote Originally Posted by mamba max1
    They are soldered to the power wires of the ESC. Those are burn marks on the charge box. Originally the lid didn't shut (charger was too tall) so I took a lighter and softened up the plastic to stretch it out. I wasn't about to toss the box after all of that work!



    Thanks! Anybody can do it. I only used a Dremel, tungsten carbide bit, and the router attachment for the Dremel. Took about 3 days to make, or about 6hrs. The cutting was very very sloooooooooow going. 7075 aluminum is VERY strong and it was a 5mm piece. Poor ole' Dremel got a workout! I originally was going to make a carbon fiber plate, but I then realized I'd loose the heat-sinking effect. That plate usually runs only 20 degrees cooler than the motor.



    I can take a close up of how I attached the caps. Just let me know.
    That too funny, about the box I mean, nice work, yeah a close up of how you attached the caps would be good, it looks so clean......
    I need more R/C cash.....

  29. #29
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Durham, North Carolina, USA
    Posts
    382
    Quote Originally Posted by Tiernan85
    hmm.... yea I have a dremel, where did you get the chunk of aluminum from? and if you don't mind me asking, how much was it?

    Would also like to see a bit more in relation to the caps if you don't mind

    cheers
    Jon

    I forgot exactly where I got it from, but if you google 7076 aluminum, you will come across many sites. With shipping ($5) it cost me $25 for a 6"x6" 5mm square.

    I'll go take some pics of how I did the caps. I'll post them up later on today.
    BL E-Revo-After 14months, its done!*
    (yeah right)

  30. #30
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Durham, North Carolina, USA
    Posts
    382
    Ok guys, here are the pics of the caps.

    http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...o/IMG_2190.jpg

    Here's what I used (x2) wired in parallel.

    Specs:
    35V
    low ESR
    2200 Uf
    tolerable to 105 degrees Celsius

    http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...o/IMG_2195.jpg

    close up of how I mounted them to the ESC. I hot glues the caps on, and covered the wires with shoe goo to protect them from dirt/moisture.

    http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...o/IMG_2194.jpg

    Look closely and you will see the little red wire coming from the positive wire on the esc. I cut the insulation just above the board (to keep the warranty in tact) and soldered the wire there. I did the same on the negative side also. I then simply soldered the caps to the little wires.

    http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...o/IMG_2196.jpg

    Here's the underside of the the whole assembly.
    BL E-Revo-After 14months, its done!*
    (yeah right)

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Grand National's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Southern Maryland
    Posts
    3,037
    That is awesome! Well done!
    Casper - 2001 Dodge Cummins (my baby)

  32. #32
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    212
    I really like the chassis brace idea. Could someone post some close-up type pictures of how to mount the thing....where to screw it into on each end and such. Thanks!!!

  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    England
    Posts
    5,791
    Quote Originally Posted by Auxbar
    I really like the chassis brace idea. Could someone post some close-up type pictures of how to mount the thing....where to screw it into on each end and such. Thanks!!!
    You.... did look at the pictures and read the thread right?



    I run tekno sways which give a plate between the shock mounts to mount the front pivot ball screw to, but manne and others running traxxas bars make a plate out of carbon fibre or ali. I have fitted mine with a long enough screw to thread into the chassis to provide extra strength.
    Last edited by ArmyofDarkness; 08-21-2010 at 08:32 PM.
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  34. #34
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    212
    Quote Originally Posted by ArmyofDarkness
    You.... did look at the pictures and read the thread right?


    Uh.....yeah....I can't really see what the brace is screwed into on the end of the chassis...which is why I was wondering if someone had any close up pictures of it....thanks for the "help" bro.

  35. #35
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    England
    Posts
    5,791
    Well, he did take very good pictures and provide a very detailed description- you can click on the pics to enlarge them too. Its not rocket science, though alot of people make it seem that way quite often, judging by the lack of initiative on display. Im sure you'll work it out when you look at your truck long enough
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  36. #36
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    London, UK
    Posts
    128
    Guys, what is the real life advantage of having those extra capacitors?

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    England
    Posts
    5,791
    Relieves some strain from the 3 stock capacitors & helps reduce the effects of ripple current/ voltage sag under load. If you're using good lipos, then they wont make a massive difference, but if you're using nimhs or borderline lipos, they will keep the esc running more smoothly..
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  38. #38
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Upstate, SC
    Posts
    429
    Nice ERB you have there! Got a question though....saw a transponder and you listed 3S lipos. How do you race on 6s? I tried it once and was waaaay to much power for me. I have great throttle control while on the track but still couldn't manage it. Plus our track doesnt allow 6s....most we can go is 4s. lol Love the body you put on there.....lightning looks awesome!
    Youtube Search- Tommy Wooten RC

  39. #39
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    356
    My hats off to ya. Very nice build. Looks killer. I am doing the same some what. Just waiting on the funds.

  40. #40
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    55
    Fantastic build.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •