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  1. #1
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    Question how many cell lipos??

    Hey y'all... I just ordered my titan from the LHS for $350 ... but I have been wondering about what lipo to put in it for the best performance/run time/weight.

    ---Will one 6S 6000mah be to heavy (you will have to have equal weight on opposite side or 2 batteries)
    ---Will one (or 2) 5S 6000mah be able to push enough power for max performance with reasonable weight
    ---Will two 3S 6000mah be the best all around choice
    --- or 4S

    I dont know

    My charger can only push out 5A max for charging so it would be better for me to only run one 5S or 6S battery so i wont have to charge two 3S 6000mah to get back running...

    Any info would be great. Thanks
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  2. #2
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    You have to run 2 batteries the way the compartment is desinged. One 6S and that thing will be running on its side.
    Your best bet will be 2 3S lipo's even though it will take about an hour to charge each one (5000-6000mah)
    Batteries can get expensive quick but if you can, get 2 pairs to really limit your downtime.
    I have 4 2S 5200mah Lipos from my Summit that Im going to use but I have a feeling I may be going to 3S for the power pretty soon.
    Cant wait for this thing to be released!!

  3. #3
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    Same here the extra volts the 3S can push out are real hard not to get addicted to on my mini review Why wont one 6S work if its balanced with weight. Or 2 6S in parallel.

    Btw the anticipation is killing me...
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by tony05
    Same here the extra volts the 3S can push out are real hard not to get addicted to on my mini review Why wont one 6S work if its balanced with weight. Or 2 6S in parallel.

    Btw the anticipation is killing me...
    if you can find a good spot to run a single 6s pack, try it and see how it runs..
    you can run two 6s packs in parallel as long as you have your cg set correct and not to wet
    I have a few 5s packs I will run in parallel that will give me great runtimes (10,000mah)
    I'm also going to run 3 2s packs in series. one on each side and one down the middle
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by filmmaker
    if you can find a good spot to run a single 6s pack, try it and see how it runs..
    you can run two 6s packs in parallel as long as you have your cg set correct and not to wet
    I have a few 5s packs I will run in parallel that will give me great runtimes (10,000mah)
    I'm also going to run 3 2s packs in series. one on each side and one down the middle

    ooooh never thought of that... you got me there. I think im going to go with one 5S 6000mah and one 6S 6000mah ******* **** tech.

    Has anyone tried the ******* **** Tech batts yet?
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  6. #6
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    I'm thinking of ordering some **** packs for my 3D plane
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  7. #7
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    I'm hoping the higher C rating will give it that extra bite over the standard ******* packs... idk time will tell.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by tony05
    I'm hoping the higher C rating will give it that extra bite over the standard ******* packs... idk time will tell.
    I picked up some killer 40c ******* packs for $26 each from HK
    First MiniSlash
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  9. #9
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    So what will be a good lipo setup?

    Hi,

    I'm new to lipo, so pardon the ignorance.

    What I'm taking is that the Titan will MAX out at 6s, I guess that is 22.2 volts max.

    So what you are saying is that I can do any combination of lipos as long as I don't go OVER 6s (6 cells in series).

    So if I put one in each tray, I can go 1S, 2S, or 3S, on each side for a total of < 6S max, but no more?

    Ok, next thing I'm not sure of, is doing parallel. In parallel, you are saying I could take 2 single 6S lipos and put them in there if they would fit?

    I'm guessing this would give me more run time only, as I'm maxed at voltage.

    Now what I really don't understand is the C ratings and how they play out in the battery to power role.

    If the ESC can only handle a certain amount of volts and amps, then do we not already know that it will max around a certain C rating?

    So 20c, 30c, or 80c? It has to be a predefined max limit based on what the ESC can handle right?

    So which is it?

    And I'd guess that C is directly related to internal resistance, so why would you run a lower 20C, if the motor / esc can pull 80C?

    I see it like buring a light bulb filiment right near its failing point all the time. It's going to fail....Am I missing something? Does the ESC control the amperage based on battery C?

    If WOT pulls 80C, and you run 20C lipos, all your going to do is max them out and heat them up and trash them right? So why do it???

    So why even risk that and just go with 80C lipos?

    I see all different suggestion here....and I don't understand...

    I'm buying this boat, and I need to know what is going to be the most cost effective power option available OVER TIME. That means I don't want 20 C lipos if they are going to be burt out becasue I'm hitting them to hard.

    I also belive a boat will be much harder on packs. Truck run with lots of wind and cooling, easy to med throttle and then, bursts here and there most of the time.......Boats run near max throttle most of the time with some lower draws on the corners.

    What the heck kind of lipos should I get? I still don't know...

    Oh, and can I get a charger that will charge multiple lipos at the same time?

    And, how the heck do I wire these in parallel and what connectors should I get on the packs? Jeese...I may just go back to gas....

    I'm a gasser by nature, but I'm attracted to BL due to low maintenance / lack of tuning of the engine / motor. However, I am quickly seeing that BL is going to be more $$ and it appears I'm going to have maintain a bunch of batteries all winter or I'm sure they will be shot....no?

    I surely don't like going swimming for my stalled gas boat, and hence here I am as the BL should almost always get to shore, right?

    Um, help me, I'm drowing in the lipos abyss....

    MP
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  10. #10
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    MP, I would start over with one or two questions at a time
    and throw everything you think you know about lipos right out the window and start over
    First: the motors pulls what it needs for amps not the esc
    C rating is the constant amp draw a battery is rated for
    like 20c 5000mah pack will produce 100amps cont power
    30c 5000mah pack will produce 150amps of cont power if the motor needs it
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrpush
    Hi,

    I'm new to lipo, so pardon the ignorance.

    What I'm taking is that the Titan will MAX out at 6s, I guess that is 22.2 volts max. Correct!; though a fully charged Lipo cell would read 4.2v. Nominal voltage being 3.7v.

    So what you are saying is that I can do any combination of lipos as long as I don't go OVER 6s (6 cells in series). Correct yes, for the most part.

    So if I put one in each tray, I can go 1S, 2S, or 3S, on each side for a total of < 6S max, but no more? If you choose to go that route yes.

    Ok, next thing I'm not sure of, is doing parallel. In parallel, you are saying I could take 2 single 6S lipos and put them in there if they would fit? Yes you can do that; and if they were 5000mAh packs that would be 22.2v total and 10,000mAh. Giving you more runtime but added weight of two 6S packs.

    I'm guessing this would give me more run time only, as I'm maxed at voltage. Correct; and also the added weight. I would imagine one 6S pack being very heavy.

    Now what I really don't understand is the C ratings and how they play out in the battery to power role. In baby words. The Higher the C-Rating the better. This goes for both Charge Rating and Constant Amp rating. The Constant Amp rating which I believe you're talking about here goes hand in hand with the mAh of the pack; AND also the manufacturer/brand IMHO too. Some non-reputable manufacturers may overate a pack. The (C-Rating X Ah) gives the Max Amps that that given Lipo pack can dish out.

    So in my case with my ThunderPower 45C/11.1v/5000mAh packs....they are capable of pushing out 225Amps. The more A a Lipo can dish out the better. It helps the electronics run cooler and last longer. Plain and simple. Cheap, under-rated packs will eventually kill your electronics.


    If the ESC can only handle a certain amount of volts and amps, then do we not already know that it will max around a certain C rating? As mentioned above....it's not only about the C-Rating but the mAh of the packs as well, and also IMO, the manufacturer behind the name of the pack.

    So 20c, 30c, or 80c? It has to be a predefined max limit based on what the ESC can handle right? I think you will get what I was saying above....to add. My 11.1v/35C/5500mAh Hyperion packs are capable of delivering 192.5A. Again, the more Amps the batts. can deliver the better. Everything runs cooler and last longer.
    So which is it? Which is what?

    And I'd guess that C is directly related to internal resistance, so why would you run a lower 20C, if the motor / esc can pull 80C? Yes, I would like to think so. The lower the IR the better....And I don't know why one would want to do this....just asking for failure.

    I see it like buring a light bulb filiment right near its failing point all the time. It's going to fail....Am I missing something? Does the ESC control the amperage based on battery C? You have to know the amount of Amps the motor/ESC is capable of demanding and give it a power source more than what it can take. You don't want to give it just enough to get by...you would be pushing the electronics too much....and you definitely don't want to give it lower than it can ask for....that's just being retarded.

    If WOT pulls 80C, and you run 20C lipos, all your going to do is max them out and heat them up and trash them right? So why do it??? If you want to see things fry and burn up.

    So why even risk that and just go with 80C lipos? Don't quite understand what you're asking here.

    I see all different suggestion here....and I don't understand...

    I'm buying this boat, and I need to know what is going to be the most cost effective power option available OVER TIME. That means I don't want 20 C lipos if they are going to be burt out becasue I'm hitting them to hard.

    I also belive a boat will be much harder on packs. Truck run with lots of wind and cooling, easy to med throttle and then, bursts here and there most of the time.......Boats run near max throttle most of the time with some lower draws on the corners.

    What the heck kind of lipos should I get? I still don't know... If I were you i'd get either a pair of 3S ThunderPower Lipos OR 3S Hyperion Lipos and run them in series for a total of 6S. They are the best out there IMHO....don't see any failures with people running those.

    Oh, and can I get a charger that will charge multiple lipos at the same time? PM Sent!

    And, how the heck do I wire these in parallel and what connectors should I get on the packs? Jeese...I may just go back to gas.... Although i've never tested myself....I got a Parallel cable on hand that I use to charge two packs @ once....that same cable I can connect to the ESC to run two packs in Parallel and use a jumper plug on the empty ESC plug....see more info on the Parallel cable in my PM. BTW, I knows nothing about gas, maybe you can teach me a thing or two.

    I'm a gasser by nature, but I'm attracted to BL due to low maintenance / lack of tuning of the engine / motor. However, I am quickly seeing that BL is going to be more $$ and it appears I'm going to have maintain a bunch of batteries all winter or I'm sure they will be shot....no? Lipos are very, very easy to maintain...IMHO you would save alot of money down the road going Brushless and Lipo and leaving all that noise and gas fumes behind. The motors are actually maintainence free and the lipos will only need to be storage charged if not going to be used for long periods of time.

    Think of it this way...spending the money for a nice charger and lipo packs is like a down payment for the future. You don't have to buy nitro fuel every month or what have you. The lipos and brushless motors pays for themselves overtime.


    I surely don't like going swimming for my stalled gas boat, and hence here I am as the BL should almost always get to shore, right? Stalling can happen with electrics too for whatever reason, so in this comparison they are one in the same IMO; It comes down to luck IMO...so don't put that swimming suit too far.

    Um, help me, I'm drowing in the lipos abyss....I hope with this post and my PM things can begin to look a bit clearer....Lipos and Brushless is really simple and easy as A B C.

    MP
    .............................
    Last edited by makaveli72; 07-20-2010 at 05:35 PM.
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  12. #12
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    Humm...

    makaveli72,

    Thanks for the information, it's coming together a bit more for me.

    One thing that still has me are posts saying they are not sure what the Titan BL motor will pull?

    How can that be? The motor can only pull so many amps and the ESC can handle only so may amps, so should it not be easy to say we need at least an 40-60C lipo? I don't see it stated anywhere?

    Being a bit conseravative, I would not care to run 20C lipos if when I go WOT, the batteries are being drawn at 20C, their max. It makes sense to me to figure out what the max draw is from the system, and get a lipo that can handle that with some to spare so the lipos last longer, especially if I'm spending $200 per pack!

    If people are smoking packs, something is wrong.

    But I do see folks here saying they are going to run 20C cells when this setup likely draws more than that.

    I liken it to me running a nitro, with the high end mixture leaned out just below the point where it will start to stutter. This does nothing but reduce the engine life significantly due to heat and poor lubrication.

    Heat is the enemy in any of these situations.

    I quess my problem is that I do not know how there batteries respond to "running at max rating". Usually max rating gives a margin of error, but what is that margin and is it safe to prevent damage?

    I'd like to run my 30C batteries at max 25C and have them last 25% longer, but that is just me.

    I think I will go 3S, but if I knew that the Titan system max draw I could make a better decision on C. I'd like to go with a C rating that does better than the total draw from the system, if that is possible.

    I guess this is why I have read that some lipos are not C rated properly, and hence running at there advertised max C makes them toast.

    Seems like 6S is going to be for eating the competition! This boat even looks mean and I'm a fan and avid Traxxas nitro runner.

    Can ESC's be adjusted to limit the amp draw to the motor?

    Thanks,

    MP
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  13. #13
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    I have no idea whats happening... I just bought 2 Venom 3S 5000mah batteries rated at 20c constant 30c burst. I dont have a HUGE area to run in and and know ill be at 3/4 most of the time, WOT some of the time. Im hoping these batteries will work and last. Im also going to run 2 Venom 2S 5000mah batteries of the same C rating from time to time... probably when its rougher on the water. If I end up damaging the batteries im going to get some cheaper HK packs that are rated super high... figuring even if they arent rated correctly and are off by a bit, theyll still be higher than what I have. Thats my plan anyway.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by filmmaker
    MP, I would start over with one or two questions at a time
    and throw everything you think you know about lipos right out the window and start over
    First: the motors pulls what it needs for amps not the esc
    C rating is the constant amp draw a battery is rated for
    like 20c 5000mah pack will produce 100amps cont power
    30c 5000mah pack will produce 150amps of cont power if the motor needs it
    Film,

    I'm aware that the motor pulls the amps, but those amps have to be handled but the ESC. So the ESC can be the limiting factor if it can not handle more than that motor can pull.

    Yeah, the C rating is a stumbling block for me, is that max without damaging the battery or max with a margin of error applied? From my experience with NICD, max made MOST batteries really hot. Significant heat = damage in my experience.

    Ok so if A = (C) x (mah)/1000, then we can simply determine a good C range if we know what the titan motor capable of pulling? I can't find that information anywhere.

    I found a seemingly similar motor, with a spec of 1000 watt draw.

    If that is the case, since W=VA, with V=22.2 volts with 6S, then A= 45/2=22.5A per pack. So 20C is a little low here. I'd go with a 35C min for a better margin of error and longer life.

    If you run 2S at 14.8 V, then that is 68 A draw or ~34 A per pack. But they are rated at only 20C? That means at full draw from the motor (assuming 1000W), you are POTENTIALLY pushing 34A, when the absolute max is 30C peak for a few seconds. In that long straight with no wind cooling the packs, you are likely going to damage these batteries fast.

    I suppose however you could get away with them if you have a less than WOT style, but who wants to do that! LOL!

    And if the Titan motor only pulls 750 watts, then it does get better, but with no comfort zone at over 25A on a 20C pack. I like a bit of confort so I'll shoot for higher C, especially in the lower voltage packs if I go that route.

    So what does your UL-1 pull? Do the packs get really hot? How many watts is the motor rated at? Have you puffed any?

    Thanks,

    MP
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  15. #15
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    where can you order these great hyperion packs from... I did a little checking around and found overseas places. They are very far and few between...

    BTW... I think im going to splurge and order myself a set of 3S 5000mah 25C hyperion packs
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrpush
    Film,

    1) I'm aware that the motor pulls the amps, but those amps have to be handled but the ESC. So the ESC can be the limiting factor if it can not handle more than that motor can pull.

    Yeah, the C rating is a stumbling block for me, is that max without damaging the battery or max with a margin of error applied? From my experience with NICD, max made MOST batteries really hot. Significant heat = damage in my experience.

    Ok so if A = (C) x (mah)/1000, then we can simply determine a good C range if we know what the titan motor capable of pulling? I can't find that information anywhere.

    2) I found a seemingly similar motor, with a spec of 1000 watt draw.

    If that is the case, since W=VA, with V=22.2 volts with 6S, then A= 45/2=22.5A per pack. So 20C is a little low here. I'd go with a 35C min for a better margin of error and longer life.

    3) If you run 2S at 14.8 V, then that is 68 A draw or ~34 A per pack. But they are rated at only 20C? That means at full draw from the motor (assuming 1000W), you are POTENTIALLY pushing 34A, when the absolute max is 30C peak for a few seconds. In that long straight with no wind cooling the packs, you are likely going to damage these batteries fast.

    I suppose however you could get away with them if you have a less than WOT style, but who wants to do that! LOL!

    And if the Titan motor only pulls 750 watts, then it does get better, but with no comfort zone at over 25A on a 20C pack. I like a bit of confort so I'll shoot for higher C, especially in the lower voltage packs if I go that route.

    4) So what does your UL-1 pull? Do the packs get really hot? How many watts is the motor rated at? Have you puffed any?

    Thanks,

    MP
    1: the esc is not the limiting factor.. the motor can and will pull more amps than what the esc is rated to if propped wrong (user error)
    2: if this motor can pull 1000watts that's 45amps
    3: a 20c 5000mah pack can produce 100amps of constant power, and more than your 1000watt motor figures (100amps x 22.2V= 2220watts)
    4: my UL-1 depending on prop pulls a constant 45-55amps and has spikes of 110amps! that's over 1600watts from small 540 motor and not one puffed pack from the amp draw on this boat.. and I have others boats that pull more amps
    Last edited by filmmaker; 07-20-2010 at 10:39 PM.
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  17. #17
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    Let the LVC work on this boat and no one should ever loose a lipo
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by tony05
    where can you order these great hyperion packs from... I did a little checking around and found overseas places. They are very far and few between...

    BTW... I think im going to splurge and order myself a set of 3S 5000mah 25C hyperion packs
    rclipos.com, rcdude.com, allerc.com just to name a few. You can also google Hyperion batteries for more results.

    I got both my (3S) ThunderPower and (3S) Hyperion Lipos from rclipos.com

    Used cde 4U10 for discount. Expensive batts. yes, but more than worth it IMHO. If it's anything I don't have to worry about is my Lipos and Charger....
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by filmmaker
    1: the esc is not the limiting factor.. the motor can and will pull more amps than what the esc is rated to if propped wrong (user error)
    2: if this motor can pull 1000watts that's 45amps
    3: a 20c 5000mah pack can produce 100amps of constant power, and more than your 1000watt motor figures (100amps x 22.2V= 2220watts)
    4: my UL-1 depending on prop pulls a constant 45-55amps and has spikes of 110amps! that's over 1600watts from small 540 motor and not one puffed pack from the amp draw on this boat.. and I have others boats that pull more amps
    Film,

    1.) The ESC "IS" a limiting factor if you draw more AMPs than it is rated for, it will either fry or shut off (thermal overload protection)! Limit reached!

    2.) Yes...

    3.) I was basing this off 20C 5000mah 2S, so that was 14.8 V and 1480 Watts. I think the Titan motor is a repackaged Feigao at ~1600kv, not sure what its max watt rating is....How many amps are these ESC rated for? Over 100? 150?

    4.) Good to know, I though about the UL-1 but my waters are often choppy, and I did not think the Hydro would run well in the chop, how does it handle chop?

    So my conclusion is, after seeing the RANGE on the C rating posted on many lipos, that most of these should do ok if they are rated properly and going a little higher on the C rate, would be better than going lower for a better margin of error.

    I see your point about the Hobby King cheapers, if I can buy 2+ for the price of one, and they are getting good life, it may be the place to start.

    Thanks,

    MP
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by filmmaker
    Let the LVC work on this boat and no one should ever loose a lipo
    I'm not sure how the LVC's work, do they allow you to power the boat back to shore?

    I'm leaning on the BL boats as I got a little tired of getting wet when nitro's act up and stall on the water or run out of fuel.

    I really want a boat I can run and not have to worry as much about retrieval, that is never fun.

    Any body have plans to flood chamber the Titan? Looks like batt trays may be in the way...

    Humm....
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrpush
    Film,

    1.) The ESC "IS" a limiting factor if you draw more AMPs than it is rated for, it will either fry or shut off (thermal overload protection)! Limit reached!

    2.) Yes...

    3.) I was basing this off 20C 5000mah 2S, so that was 14.8 V and 1480 Watts. I think the Titan motor is a repackaged Feigao at ~1600kv, not sure what its max watt rating is....How many amps are these ESC rated for? Over 100? 150?


    4.) Good to know, I though about the UL-1 but my waters are often choppy, and I did not think the Hydro would run well in the chop, how does it handle chop?

    So my conclusion is, after seeing the RANGE on the C rating posted on many lipos, that most of these should do ok if they are rated properly and going a little higher on the C rate, would be better than going lower for a better margin of error.

    I see your point about the Hobby King cheapers, if I can buy 2+ for the price of one, and they are getting good life, it may be the place to start.

    Thanks,

    MP
    1) if your pulling more amps than what the esc is rated for your setup it set WRONG
    the esc is not the limiting factor in a FE boat.. you can have an esc rated for twice or even 3x the amp rating of the motor and still fry the esc
    3)bro you need to reread what you post
    you #s don't match between this statement and the other
    this motor will not pull 100amps cont
    If so they could not sell this boat with the Nimh batteries because they only put out about 35-40amps peak
    Last edited by filmmaker; 07-21-2010 at 12:55 PM.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by pavmentsurfer
    I have no idea whats happening... I just bought 2 Venom 3S 5000mah batteries rated at 20c constant 30c burst. I dont have a HUGE area to run in and and know ill be at 3/4 most of the time, WOT some of the time. Im hoping these batteries will work and last. Im also going to run 2 Venom 2S 5000mah batteries of the same C rating from time to time... probably when its rougher on the water. If I end up damaging the batteries im going to get some cheaper HK packs that are rated super high... figuring even if they arent rated correctly and are off by a bit, theyll still be higher than what I have. Thats my plan anyway.
    These should be ok, just don;t get them to hot. I'm just learning on the lipos so don't take my posts as fact.....I'm speculating here about draw and my concept of C value was a bit weak....

    I concluded that I would go for a little higher C when I get mine, however, these 20C's should be ok in this boat.

    MP
    If I were not into R/C, I'd be rich!

  23. #23
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    31
    Quote Originally Posted by filmmaker
    1) if your pulling more amps than what the esc is rated for your setup it set WRONG
    the esc is not the limiting factor in a FE boat.. you can have an esc rated for twice or even 3x the amp rating of the motor and still fry the esc
    3)bro you need to reread what you post
    you #s don't match between this statement and the other
    this motor will not pull 100amps cont
    If so they could not sell this boat with the Nimh batteries because they only put out about 35-40amps peak
    Film,

    1.) You got me there, how do you fry an ESC rated at say 100Amp throughput with 50 amps?

    3) The issue there was my understanding of C rates....I think I have it now.

    If your packs can only put out 40 amps, then at 7.4 volts, the motor is only using ~300 watts.....

    Motor says "give me all you got", pack says, "here is my 40 amps PEAK, aint got no more" .....ahhhhhh.....

    But, what prevents the "poof" from the supplied NIMH to a 6S? If the motor is pullin all it can from the pack, the pack is maxed. Does the ESC control this?

    MP
    If I were not into R/C, I'd be rich!

  24. #24
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    41
    Quote Originally Posted by makaveli72
    rclipos.com, rcdude.com, allerc.com just to name a few. You can also google Hyperion batteries for more results.

    I got both my (3S) ThunderPower and (3S) Hyperion Lipos from rclipos.com

    Used cde 4U10 for discount. Expensive batts. yes, but more than worth it IMHO. If it's anything I don't have to worry about is my Lipos and Charger....


    thanks very much... also thanks a lot for the code to save me some $$

    I cant wait for this boat to come out... hopefully summers not gone by.
    **T-MAXX 3.3**1/16 MINI REVO**SUMMIT**

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrpush
    Film,

    1.) You got me there, how do you fry an ESC rated at say 100Amp throughput with 50 amps?

    3) The issue there was my understanding of C rates....I think I have it now.

    If your packs can only put out 40 amps, then at 7.4 volts, the motor is only using ~300 watts.....

    Motor says "give me all you got", pack says, "here is my 40 amps PEAK, aint got no more" .....ahhhhhh.....

    But, what prevents the "poof" from the supplied NIMH to a 6S? If the motor is pullin all it can from the pack, the pack is maxed. Does the ESC control this?

    MP
    ok sounds like your getting it
    1) I have yet to smoke an esc.. even if a motor is rated to 65amps like I think this XL is, it can pull 100amps and more if propped wrong and also if running way to wet
    like say you ran a 48mm prop running 6s it will pull more than the motor is rated and cause lots of heat issues and hurt the esc
    3) the motor will pull what it needs to run.. bigger prop it will pull more amps, smaller prop the motor, not the esc will pull less amps
    the esc is more of a gate way to the rpm of the motor if you will
    First MiniSlash
    HK6XL Revo 4s 60mph Amsoil dealer

  26. #26
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    31
    So why not not make esc's that have settable limits and prevent potential problems....I do like to mess with props....
    If I were not into R/C, I'd be rich!

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrpush
    So why not not make esc's that have settable limits and prevent potential problems....I do like to mess with props....
    That could be a cool thing!
    kinda like a studder bump
    First MiniSlash
    HK6XL Revo 4s 60mph Amsoil dealer

  28. #28
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Venice, FL
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    2,784
    For people that are NOT FE experts I would suggest that you remember this...
    Forget the math... that is only critical if you are pushing the limits. The boat will run fine with a pair of 7 cell stick packs, just not the advertised speed on 6S Lipo....
    What ever batts you have just run them, if you want to go faster, then upgrade, the higher the C rating the better, and absolutely the larger the capacity the better for run times. While MaxAmps is very expensive, they have packs that are over 13,000 mAh ! A better bargain would be from www.spcracing.com and get the highest capacity you can afford. Also don't get too focused on 6S... that's just the limit.. if you have 2S for your other vehicles, a pair of them will be fine, just not as fast.

    I think it wouldn't be a bad idea for Traxxas to just sell a pair of packs that they think are ideal, and market that to the newbies, and they realize the experts will want to play with the math, different props, etc.
    3905 E-MAXX

  29. #29
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    USA
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    3,038
    Quote Originally Posted by BT_EMT
    For people that are NOT FE experts I would suggest that you remember this...
    Forget the math... that is only critical if you are pushing the limits. The boat will run fine with a pair of 7 cell stick packs, just not the advertised speed on 6S Lipo....
    What ever batts you have just run them, if you want to go faster, then upgrade, the higher the C rating the better, and absolutely the larger the capacity the better for run times. While MaxAmps is very expensive, they have packs that are over 13,000 mAh ! A better bargain would be from www.spcracing.com and get the highest capacity you can afford. Also don't get too focused on 6S... that's just the limit.. if you have 2S for your other vehicles, a pair of them will be fine, just not as fast.

    I think it wouldn't be a bad idea for Traxxas to just sell a pair of packs that they think are ideal, and market that to the newbies, and they realize the experts will want to play with the math, different props, etc.

    good stuff bro!
    and if people have 4s or 5s packs those can be run in parallel to give great runtimes and good amp ratings to the motor and esc
    First MiniSlash
    HK6XL Revo 4s 60mph Amsoil dealer

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