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  1. #1
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    Where should i get my lipos?

    Ok so im gonna make some money to get the new traxxas boat (Titan) and i want it to go as fast as it can. So i know the first step is to get 2 3c lipos. Where should i get them and for how much????? Plz respond as fast as possible.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    rclipos.com

    Use code 4U10 for discount.
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  3. #3
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    Id go with tower. Youll get $60 off the boat, free shipping and then you can get another chunk of money off the batteries with their discount codes. I bought 2 5000mah 3S Venoms for my Titan. Ill run 2 5000mah 2S and 2 5000mah 3S depending on conditions. I can see myself getting a 2nd 5400mah 3S if the titan is as fun as it looks like it will be so I have 2 sets of 3S. BUT... tower is my vote for you.
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  6. #6
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    Hobby city gets my vote!!
    Prices are much better
    Last edited by filmmaker; 07-01-2010 at 12:42 AM.
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  7. #7
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    Imo boats are harder on batteries than cars are, buy the best you can afford. If you are going with cheap Chinese lipos from places like hobby city, get the highest c rating you can.

    But if you are serious about performance in boats, get the hyperions from rclipos or some other source.

    Btw I have a bunch of hobby city lipos and they are good for the $$, but I dont run them in my boats.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason_garrison
    Imo boats are harder on batteries than cars are, buy the best you can afford. If you are going with cheap Chinese lipos from places like hobby city, get the highest c rating you can.

    But if you are serious about performance in boats, get the hyperions from rclipos or some other source.

    Btw I have a bunch of hobby city lipos and they are good for the $$, but I dont run them in my boats.
    Thanks for that, especially the first clause. Many people do not understand that boat can be significantly harder on batteries than land vehicles. For this reason I am expecting a whole bunch of "My LiPos puffed!" threads once this marine missile is released.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason_garrison
    Imo boats are harder on batteries than cars are, buy the best you can afford. If you are going with cheap Chinese lipos from places like hobby city, get the highest c rating you can.

    But if you are serious about performance in boats, get the hyperions from rclipos or some other source.

    Btw I have a bunch of hobby city lipos and they are good for the $$, but I dont run them in my boats.
    hello?
    cheap price does not mean a bad pack..
    look around at the FE sites and take a look at what they race and sport run with
    that's right, ******* lipos. most run 30c to 40c packs and they are awesome!
    I have 30C packs that I run in series and some 20C packs that I run in parallel
    we have done a lot of testing with the high priced packs and they do not run much better as we have found out
    but it all depends on amp draw, and I don't think this new Traxxas mono will be to hard on packs, if so they would not sell it with Nimh packs
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  10. #10
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    I did get a killer deal on some 2s 5000mah 40C packs at Hobby City and they rock!
    I only paid $25.99 per pack
    hard to beat that price to power this boat
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by filmmaker
    hello?
    cheap price does not mean a bad pack..
    look around at the FE sites and take a look at what they race and sport run with
    that's right, ******* lipos. most run 30c to 40c packs and they are awesome!
    I have 30C packs that I run in series and some 20C packs that I run in parallel
    we have done a lot of testing with the high priced packs and they do not run much better as we have found out
    but it all depends on amp draw, and I don't think this new Traxxas mono will be to hard on packs, if so they would not sell it with Nimh packs
    film, Jason wasn't bashing the cheapy chinese packs; what I gathered from his post was basically the boats are much harder and pull more contant amps than trucks on the batts.; AND he also stated that IF buying those cheapy packs, one should get the highest C-Rated ones. So IMHO he spoke the truth, covered the bases and had no bias as he also use the cheapy packs;

    I believe everyone (at least those around the E-Revo section of the forum) are aware of talk about the included NIMH packs killing the MMM ESCs as they do not supply enough amps to the ESC as it demands (a topic of debate and controversy)....IMHO, no matter what application you use you would want the best power supply source, and I think most if not all would agree that the city/king packs are not the best. So with that said I honestly don't think your quoted post towards him was warranted, esp. with your response.

    But, in all fairness and honesty. The amount of amps being pulled, I would like to believe comes down to your driving traits. I think it's obvious that one would be more WOT when driving a boat, rather than a car/truck. And with that said too, I doubt that the Velineon system in this boat would be as powerful and demand as much amps as the MMM system. But then again I may be wrong....after looking @ the specs for the VXL-3S ESC I might just be wrong.

    So at the end of the day, the best batts. (which are not the ******* and ********* for sure) are what you would want for any RC application. Give the electronics more amps than they can use; more breathing room for current when needed. Overall you would have a much cooler and longer lasting electronics. As is, after an approximate 25 - 30 min. bash with my Hyperion and ThunderPower batts. they are not even warm to the touch. So I know for a fact they would be perfect for any high amp, high power demanding application.
    Last edited by makaveli72; 07-02-2010 at 10:33 PM.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by makaveli72
    film, Jason wasn't bashing the cheapy chinese packs; what I gathered from his post was basically the boats are much harder and pull more contant amps than trucks on the batts.; AND he also stated that IF buying those cheapy packs, one should get the highest C-Rated ones. So IMHO he spoke the truth, covered the bases and had no bias as he also use the cheapy packs;

    I believe everyone (at least those around the E-Revo section of the forum) are aware of talk about the included NIMH packs killing the MMM ESCs as they do not supply enough amps to the ESC as it demands (a topic of debate and controversy)....IMHO, no matter what application you use you would want the best power supply source, and I think most if not all would agree that the city/king packs are not the best. So with that said I honestly don't think your quoted post towards him was warranted, esp. with your response.

    But, in all fairness and honesty. The amount of amps being pulled, I would like to believe comes down to your driving traits. I think it's obvious that one would be more WOT when driving a boat, rather than a car/truck. And with that said too, I doubt that the Velineon system in this boat would be as powerful and demand as much amps as the MMM system. But then again I may be wrong....after looking @ the specs for the VXL-3S ESC I might just be wrong.

    So at the end of the day, the best batts. (which are not the ******* and ********* for sure) are what you would want for any RC application. Give the electronics more amps than they can use; more breathing room for current when needed. Overall you would have a much cooler and longer lasting electronics. As is, after an approximate 25 - 30 min. bash with my Hyperion and ThunderPower batts. they are not even warm to the touch. So I know for a fact they would be perfect for any high amp, high power demanding application.
    The average amp draw on the MMM is so much lower that on a FE boat its like 4to1
    most boats have an average run of 5min at WOT, and that's a lot of amps being pulled from the packs and the cheap priced ******* lipos deliver
    if you can run a 5000mah pack down to 20% capacity for a 25min run on your MMM, thats only 10amps cont.. no big deal
    and on a FE boat that 5000mah pack will run about 5min or 48amps cont, huge difference
    and on my UL-1 depending on prop, the boat uses 4000mah out of my packs in only 4min flat! that's 60amps cont
    Last edited by filmmaker; 07-07-2010 at 08:27 AM.
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  13. #13
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    I agree with filmmaker on the critical Amp loads produced by boats. People post on this forum and other forums concerning the potential Amp loads of their trucks, but those loads are almost always surge or peaks loads. In my shop I can test packs at any rate up to 80-Amps continuous, but my standard test rate is 35-Amps continuous. 35-Amps continuous is enough to stress most packs yet keep the test times fairly short. 70 to 80 Amps is another story entirely as these rates can be very stressful (if not damaging) to all but the very best packs. Also at these higher rates I use an external cooling fan, to prevent pack and connector heat related damage. I found out long ago that without fan cooling air, the higher-rate tests were an accident just waiting to happen. Knowing how critical this heat issue was/is, imagine placing the same packs in a high-powered boat where there is no external cooling air to blow over the packs.

    Over the past three years I have tested and run many LiPo packs from numerous different suppliers in my SV27 boat. I also tested and ran good quality, matched, 6-cell EnerG4600 Nimh packs in the same boat. It did not take long for me to realize a boat such as this is the ultimate battery torturer. I dubbed it the "battery eater". My SV27 has ruined more LiPo packs than every other RC vehicle and testing source I have done since, COMBINED! If I ran the boat with an X642 prop for more than 6 to 7 minutes, some LiPo packs would come out of the boat at temperatures approaching 140dF or more. With an X645 prop, LiPo temps were higher yet. The maximum LiPo temperatures I ever recorded were 170dF and yes it destroyed the packs. And they were not cheap packs either, they were Enerland 40C packs. With the same X645 prop on the SV27, the previously mentioned Nimh packs would jump up to 160 to 170 dF by the end of a 5 minute run, but they would survive. In fact I ran a pair of those packs in that boat numerous times and they always came back for more.

    The bottom line, continuous modest to high Amp loads plus the lack of cooling may be the death to many battery packs in this new Traxxas boat.

  14. #14
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    I will go with ThunderPower 5000mah 3s 40c Two of them. I have had nothing but great luck with them on my Slash 4x4.
    I cant stop playing with it !!!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jakey
    I agree with filmmaker on the critical Amp loads produced by boats. People post on this forum and other forums concerning the potential Amp loads of their trucks, but those loads are almost always surge or peaks loads. In my shop I can test packs at any rate up to 80-Amps continuous, but my standard test rate is 35-Amps continuous. 35-Amps continuous is enough to stress most packs yet keep the test times fairly short. 70 to 80 Amps is another story entirely as these rates can be very stressful (if not damaging) to all but the very best packs. Also at these higher rates I use an external cooling fan, to prevent pack and connector heat related damage. I found out long ago that without fan cooling air, the higher-rate tests were an accident just waiting to happen. Knowing how critical this heat issue was/is, imagine placing the same packs in a high-powered boat where there is no external cooling air to blow over the packs.

    Over the past three years I have tested and run many LiPo packs from numerous different suppliers in my SV27 boat. I also tested and ran good quality, matched, 6-cell EnerG4600 Nimh packs in the same boat. It did not take long for me to realize a boat such as this is the ultimate battery torturer. I dubbed it the "battery eater". My SV27 has ruined more LiPo packs than every other RC vehicle and testing source I have done since, COMBINED! If I ran the boat with an X642 prop for more than 6 to 7 minutes, some LiPo packs would come out of the boat at temperatures approaching 140dF or more. With an X645 prop, LiPo temps were higher yet. The maximum LiPo temperatures I ever recorded were 170dF and yes it destroyed the packs. And they were not cheap packs either, they were Enerland 40C packs. With the same X645 prop on the SV27, the previously mentioned Nimh packs would jump up to 160 to 170 dF by the end of a 5 minute run, but they would survive. In fact I ran a pair of those packs in that boat numerous times and they always came back for more.

    The bottom line, continuous modest to high Amp loads plus the lack of cooling may be the death to many battery packs in this new Traxxas boat.
    agreed with the SV27 test bed
    I only run for about 5min max with my 2 SV boats, that's usually right at 20% left of the packs capacity..
    anything beyond and my packs start to heat up past 110*
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by filmmaker
    hello?
    cheap price does not mean a bad pack..
    look around at the FE sites and take a look at what they race and sport run with
    that's right, ******* lipos. most run 30c to 40c packs and they are awesome!
    I have 30C packs that I run in series and some 20C packs that I run in parallel
    we have done a lot of testing with the high priced packs and they do not run much better as we have found out
    but it all depends on amp draw, and I don't think this new Traxxas mono will be to hard on packs, if so they would not sell it with Nimh packs
    Hello? I never said cheap meant bad, doesnt mean there arent better out there...

    No need to make a flammatory post towards me when I said nothing wrong. If you want to run cheap packs in FE boats then by all means go for it. I have probably two dozen ***** or ********* packs sitting right next to me on my desk. But I can tell you that more of them have puffed when running my larger FE boats than you would ever see with hyperion packs.

    In some cases YOU DO get what you pay for.
    Last edited by Jason_garrison; 07-09-2010 at 03:56 PM.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason_garrison
    Hello? I never said cheap meant bad, doesnt mean there arent better out there...

    No need to make a flammatory post towards me when I said nothing wrong. If you want to run cheap packs in FE boats then by all means go for it. I have probably two dozen ***** or ********* packs sitting right next to me on my desk. But I can tell you that more of them have puffed when running my larger FE boats than you would ever see with hyperion packs.

    In some cases YOU DO get what you pay for.
    Chill man...
    If your puffing your lipos don't call the packs bad because they are priced cheap, in most cases its user error..
    Non of my ******* packs have puffed and my boats run hard.. 45 to 65 cont. Amps
    Last edited by filmmaker; 07-09-2010 at 04:34 PM.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smasher!
    I just bought 8 ******* Hardcase LiPos. I couldn't be more impressed. I run them on my E-Revo Brushless, so they are running in the same system, or close enough.

    We have one bad one, which a guy we know is going to try and fix it for us. 7 out of 8 LiPo's ain't bad..considering we bought them all at once. I would highly recommend them to anyone, and you can't beat the price. You can get 2-3 LiPos of the same kind..compared to one from another company.

    Edit: I should mention they are ******* 2S 5200mAh Hardcase LiPos.
    very coo man!
    I just picked up 6 5000mah 40c hardcase packs for $25.99 each
    I should be trying them out this weekend in my Revo and my T29 boat
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by filmmaker
    Chill man...
    If your puffing your lipos don't call the packs bad because they are priced cheap, in most cases its user error..
    Non of my ******* packs have puffed and my boats run hard.. 45 to 65 cont. Amps
    Yeah you are right, Im sure its user error.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smasher!
    Yeah its sick! Flying high...if I end up with a titan, I am sure I will start with 4S..maybe 6S, but that's insane..haha. Get a vid of your boat going with the 6S, and PM me a link.
    Right on man!
    have some 20c 5s packs I'm going to run in parallel and I'm thinking I will see low 50's with the right prop and sweet runtimes with 10,000mah
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  21. #21
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    I see HK has bought out 45-90c **** tech lipo's, anyone had any experience with them yet?
    I need more R/C cash.....

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    hmmm... I am looking to buy a titan asap and was looking on a main and came to a price of $345 with coupons!!! Wasnt bad i thought. Anyway im new to the boating but this caught my eye. I found a 6s 5000mah lipo for $129 is it worth it to buy 2 for the 10000mah run time or should I go with what someone mentioned above, the 5s 5000mah for much cheaper. Either way how would you change the wiring to run series or parallel?

    thanks---anthony

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    Just wanted to say thanks for responding! i did not expect this much response from my first thread! so thank you guys for some great adivce!
    Im stupid :D teach me :)

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by tony05
    hmmm... I am looking to buy a titan asap and was looking on a main and came to a price of $345 with coupons!!! Wasnt bad i thought. Anyway im new to the boating but this caught my eye. I found a 6s 5000mah lipo for $129 is it worth it to buy 2 for the 10000mah run time or should I go with what someone mentioned above, the 5s 5000mah for much cheaper. Either way how would you change the wiring to run series or parallel?

    thanks---anthony
    To run parallel, you will need to change the connectors on the esc
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  25. #25
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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by filmmaker
    agreed with the SV27 test bed
    I only run for about 5min max with my 2 SV boats, that's usually right at 20% left of the packs capacity..
    anything beyond and my packs start to heat up past 110*
    Do you ever warm your packs? start with them at 140 for an experiment, you'll be impressed

    filmmaker, on a slightly different aspect of cells....& I'm not trying to start anything by saying this...I own a good mix of brands & I push them very hard in my speed run vehicles, I have abused my Thunderpower & Hyperion cells like I stole them & they always bounce back. If I treat the HC cells the same way they don't bounce back quite as well. I've always felt the fact that they're unmatched puts them at a disadvantage when a direct comparison is concerned. I tend to use the HC cells a little more conservatively as result but they end up puffed after fewer cycles than the 'brand' cells

    Jakey, I think I'd better get some SPC's one of these days!!!

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grand National
    SPCracing.com ---- They put the rest of batteries to shame.
    not when you factor price!
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by PBO
    Do you ever warm your packs? start with them at 140 for an experiment, you'll be impressed

    filmmaker, on a slightly different aspect of cells....& I'm not trying to start anything by saying this...I own a good mix of brands & I push them very hard in my speed run vehicles, I have abused my Thunderpower & Hyperion cells like I stole them & they always bounce back. If I treat the HC cells the same way they don't bounce back quite as well. I've always felt the fact that they're unmatched puts them at a disadvantage when a direct comparison is concerned. I tend to use the HC cells a little more conservatively as result but they end up puffed after fewer cycles than the 'brand' cells

    Jakey, I think I'd better get some SPC's one of these days!!!
    I have warmed my packs and really did not see much difference, but that was to 110*
    and I never run my packs below 80-85% of their capacity and have yet to puff a Turningy
    but when I've gone 100% then I've had issues with them, but also with spc packs to.. I've lost two spc packs when I went 100% capacity discharge on them
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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by filmmaker
    ... but when I've gone 100% then I've had issues with them ... when I went 100% capacity discharge on them
    When a Lipo pack is discharged to near empty, especially if the discharge load is relatively aggressive, the cells will tend to stray apart in voltage near the end of the discharge run. This can happen regardless of how well matched the cells are, but a pack's age and quality can make this issue worse. So, when the pack is discharged to near empty, say 6.0 volts for a 2-cell pack, it is not uncommon to see cell voltages separate to extremes like this:
    Cell #1 3.2 Volts
    Cell #2 2.8 Volts

    Just one discharge cycle like this can permanently damage a pack. This is the reason why some battery companies are now recommending LVC settings slightly higher than 3.0 volts/cell. This allows for cell-voltage differences that may occur during real world use.
    Last edited by Jakey; 07-15-2010 at 10:31 AM.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by filmmaker
    not when you factor price!
    Actually, SPC LiPo's cost pretty much the same as HK in the end. Plus your getting great support (which HK does not have), quality cells (which we don't even know if HK has), fast shipping (which we definitely know HK does not have), TRX or Deans connector installed (which HK does not have), and just the fact that you are supporting a USA based company for what? $10 more should win you over. Just saying...
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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grand National
    Actually, SPC LiPo's cost pretty much the same as HK in the end. Plus your getting great support (which HK does not have), quality cells (which we don't even know if HK has), fast shipping (which we definitely know HK does not have), TRX or Deans connector installed (which HK does not have), and just the fact that you are supporting a USA based company for what? $10 more should win you over. Just saying...
    Hmmm?
    well I bought 6 2s 5000mah 40c packs for $25.99 plus $8.00 shipping per pack..!
    that's $33.99 each
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  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by filmmaker
    I have warmed my packs and really did not see much difference, but that was to 110*
    and I never run my packs below 80-85% of their capacity and have yet to puff a Turningy
    but when I've gone 100% then I've had issues with them, but also with spc packs to.. I've lost two spc packs when I went 100% capacity discharge on them
    Well 110 is better than cold cells but 140 is better than 110 IME with high load scenarios. The lowered IR provides the max current immediately

    To me 100% discharge is <3.0v p/cell. I've had TP's down to 2.7v & they came back and that's as hard as I've pushed a pack before. The HC cells have never enjoyed getting below 3.0v

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by PBO
    Well 110 is better than cold cells but 140 is better than 110 IME with high load scenarios. The lowered IR provides the max current immediately

    To me 100% discharge is <3.0v p/cell. I've had TP's down to 2.7v & they came back and that's as hard as I've pushed a pack before. The HC cells have never enjoyed getting below 3.0v
    I'll let you know how the new HK ****'s perform in my titon when i finally get it.....
    I need more R/C cash.....

  34. #34
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    I am also new to electric r/c. For the Titan what lipos should i get? The ones from hobbypartz or Venom Lipos. The venom's are double the price. I want a decent battery that will push the boat to the 50mph mark. What run times can i expect from a 3S 5000 MAH battery? Oh ya the cheaper ones also have a 40C rating and venom is only 25C (if it makes a difference) Not sure how to use lipo batteries yet.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shaun78
    I am also new to electric r/c. For the Titan what lipos should i get? The ones from hobbypartz or Venom Lipos. The venom's are double the price. I want a decent battery that will push the boat to the 50mph mark. What run times can i expect from a 3S 5000 MAH battery? Oh ya the cheaper ones also have a 40C rating and venom is only 25C (if it makes a difference) Not sure how to use lipo batteries yet.
    Have you read this thread??
    venom are over priced in my opinion
    and for runtimes you are looking at maybe 5min to the 80% rule, but it all depends on prop and if the boat is running wet or loose...
    First MiniSlash
    HK6XL Revo 4s 60mph Amsoil dealer

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    3,660
    Quote Originally Posted by filmmaker
    ... venom are over priced in my opinion
    How do you figure?

  37. #37
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Venice, FL
    Posts
    2,784
    I think Jakey is right, this new boat, is going to puff many LiPo's for those that are not experts. Heck this may lead us back to a renewed interest in NiMH packs ! At least you could make a water jacket and cool side x side packs.

    I bet we see more LiFe packs being used for their durability and maybe a new interest in A123 packs, being ultra durable, and tolerant of being discharged under high amp loads. Plus the new boat is huge, and the extra weight and larger size of A123 cells may not be an issue, where it is in cars/trucks. However they are still very expensive, but that could change. Battery hope the LVC works well on the new ESC for this boat !

    www.tanicpacks.com
    3905 E-MAXX

  38. #38
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    America
    Posts
    615
    I think with the right C rating and quality lipo pack we should all be fine...

    I plan on using NIMH and 6s Lipo just depends on the temps and my driving style of the run... if its very choppy out and Im jumping the boat Im gonna use NIMH incase of a flip over but even so my 2- 3s lipos are under warranty and water tested so im not that worried but will still take extra care on 6s with temps and lvc...

    we all wont know whats best or what works for us until we do our own trial and error... if the boat was raced by traxxas in some class than we could get some direction like with the revo brushless...
    V Twin Emaxx
    inferno gt2 aka XO1 Destroyer

  39. #39
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Venice, FL
    Posts
    2,784
    Yeah I agree the freshest high rating LiPo's will do OK, but I bet many older lower C packs will go. I'd still like to see who the first A123 modder will be and how it compares !
    3905 E-MAXX

  40. #40
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    514
    Ok those tanic packs are like 5 times the cost of the ones from hobbyparts and spcracing and the C rating is lower? Whats the difference? Are they really worth 5 times the money? Where can I read about the correct way to handle lipo batteries?

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