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  1. #1
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    Shimming the diffs? Please?

    I have read all the threads about shimming on this forum, and the how to shim a T-Maxx. Its all pretty confusing . Can someone please tell me exactly what I need to buy and what I need to make? Maybe a template for the ones I'm suppose to make?

    Thanx a million,
    sm0ke

  2. #2
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    I know some of you guys have done this. Anybody?

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    I used traxxas part #3982x{teflon washers} for the outputs.And for the spider gears you have to make those out of that impossible to open plastic packaging.I used the part as a template.Here's a awful pic from my phone sorry.One for each side you may have to try some different thicknesses to get it right.
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  4. #4
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    I guess my biggest question is should I really by all of the shims, washers, etc mentioned in the T-Maxx thread, or just like the parts mentioned here. Some 6mm shims, and some plastic from an impossible to open item?

    Thanx
    sm0ke

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sm0ke
    I guess my biggest question is should I really by all of the shims, washers, etc mentioned in the T-Maxx thread, or just like the parts mentioned here. Some 6mm shims, and some plastic from an impossible to open item?

    Thanx
    sm0ke
    This is what i used.I'm still stock so i don't have as much power to deal with I've not read the tmaxx thread.Link please, gonna look for stainless shims.My thoughts are the teflon washers are not strong enough to handle the torque there gonna get destroyed soon
    Mountains cant stop me
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  6. #6
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    Here is the link...

    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=267016

    I've got all the stuff in my cart at tower, but I just wanted to be sure I needed it all, and that there wasn't something else I needed instead. Like I can't find where I might need a 10mm shim, and on this thread

    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=499342

    down a little ways, it says one side of the diff is 6mm and the other side is 8mm. Do I need 8mm shims too? Don't know. Its very frustrating. The nearest LHS is about 25 to 30 miles, and 99 times out of 100 they don't have what I need. So I'm trying to appeal to those more experienced with this truck to make sure I get it all. Not in a hurry I guess as I am waiting on ceramic bearings to be back in stock at avid. BTW, I'm still stock for the most part too, this is the one that is staying waterproof, the maxx gets the mamba monster.

    sm0ke

  7. #7
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    I haven't shimmed my diff and I run 4S with my MMM or dewalt and I haven't broke and diffs yet(knock on wood). Just axles and bumper mounts so far. Lol
    SUMMIT- DeWalt, 4S
    SUMMV- 3S
    MERV- 3S

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sm0ke
    Here is the link...

    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=267016

    I've got all the stuff in my cart at tower, but I just wanted to be sure I needed it all, and that there wasn't something else I needed instead. Like I can't find where I might need a 10mm shim, and on this thread

    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=499342

    down a little ways, it says one side of the diff is 6mm and the other side is 8mm. Do I need 8mm shims too? Don't know. Its very frustrating. The nearest LHS is about 25 to 30 miles, and 99 times out of 100 they don't have what I need. So I'm trying to appeal to those more experienced with this truck to make sure I get it all. Not in a hurry I guess as I am waiting on ceramic bearings to be back in stock at avid. BTW, I'm still stock for the most part too, this is the one that is staying waterproof, the maxx gets the mamba monster.

    sm0ke
    I used one size for all, all the shafts are 6 mill i believe the Teflon washers are just a temp fix they can't take the pressure if the shims your looking at are stronger material thats what i would do.I'd like to make them bullet proof but a plastic carrier makes that difficult.I'm now running 2s 5000 30c lipo........WOW big difference Gotta get the diff shim right or it's gonna eat diff parts.Cheaper to buy whole diff off ebay than to buy the parts to fix one I'm in the same boat. one lhs, $$ terrible service, some stuff in stock but usually not what i need.Ebay is my new friend.
    Mountains cant stop me
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  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traxximus Prime
    I haven't shimmed my diff and I run 4S with my MMM or dewalt and I haven't broke and diffs yet(knock on wood). Just axles and bumper mounts so far. Lol
    You break those rpm mounts yet
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  10. #10
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    One 9 x 6 x 0.5mm shim usually will work for the pinion gear (place the shim over the shaft directly behind the gear head). Yes, try to find metal shims.

    For the spiders, like jamann said, use the little U-shaped thrust washers as templates to cut out your spider gear shims.

    Here's a pic showing where they go:
    (also note I have the thrust washers turned over so the chamfered side faces toward the spider gear rather than away from it, this is to give it better engagement within it's slot in the cup after the shims are in place)
    Last edited by sfr4x4; 06-30-2010 at 01:34 AM.

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    Thank you sfr4x4.The picture says a thousand words
    Mountains cant stop me
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamann
    You break those rpm mounts yet
    Nope. Haven't broke the rpm ones yet. They've taken alot harder hits like driving off a little cliff and they held. The body and cage were collapsed. But they popped back out. Lol
    SUMMIT- DeWalt, 4S
    SUMMV- 3S
    MERV- 3S

  13. #13
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    I made my own shims out of 2 thickneses of brass sheet and some hollow punches (leather punches). From memory i used 3mm inside diameter 6mm outside for the spider gears. I found when I shimmed them nice and tight they just started to foul on the inside of the diff cup where the 4 main screws hold it all together. Left it be as this was just what it took to remove the play. I placed these shims between the washer and the spidr gear. The locker side side gear needed a 6.5mm diameter 10mm outside diameter shim between the little blue seal and the diff cup. The crown wheel side gear was a 6mm inside 10mm outside diameter shim again in between the little blue seal and the crowm wheel. The pinion was another 6mm inside 10mm outside shim between the gear and the bearing.

    If any of this info is wrong please chime in as I shimmed my diffs a couple of weeks ago and all this is just from memory.

    Another note like Jamann said, its cheep to buy a complete diff off of ebay (I got mine for US$20 + shipping). And I found that the new diff took less shim material than my older non broken diff.

    I am also on standard power at the moment. But a 18V dewalt drill just fell into my possesion yesterday so this may change soon.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by diby_2000
    I made my own shims out of 2 thickneses of brass sheet and some hollow punches (leather punches). From memory i used 3mm inside diameter 6mm outside for the spider gears. I found when I shimmed them nice and tight they just started to foul on the inside of the diff cup where the 4 main screws hold it all together. Left it be as this was just what it took to remove the play. I placed these shims between the washer and the spidr gear. The locker side side gear needed a 6.5mm diameter 10mm outside diameter shim between the little blue seal and the diff cup. The crown wheel side gear was a 6mm inside 10mm outside diameter shim again in between the little blue seal and the crowm wheel. The pinion was another 6mm inside 10mm outside shim between the gear and the bearing.

    If any of this info is wrong please chime in as I shimmed my diffs a couple of weeks ago and all this is just from memory.

    Another note like Jamann said, its cheep to buy a complete diff off of ebay (I got mine for US$20 + shipping). And I found that the new diff took less shim material than my older non broken diff.

    I am also on standard power at the moment. But a 18V dewalt drill just fell into my possesion yesterday so this may change soon.
    I don't think it matters too much how you shim it, just as long as you have eliminated any possible in & out movement of each of the differential's shafts (meaning the gears are meshed as tight as possible), and that whatever shims you used won't get crushed or deformed when torque is put to it (also make sure you're still able to turn the assembly by hand. A little stiffness is OK (and is actually desirable), just as long as it's not like next to impossible to turn).

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    Anyone break this part yet?
    Mountains cant stop me
    they have tried

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by sm0ke
    I have read all the threads about shimming on this forum, and the how to shim a T-Maxx. Its all pretty confusing . Can someone please tell me exactly what I need to buy and what I need to make? Maybe a template for the ones I'm suppose to make?

    Thanx a million,
    sm0ke
    why is it important to shim the difs...if it was the crutial, wouldn't they do it at the factory?? call me crazy I just drive mine.
    6s MMM c_no_summit & c_no_evo_8
    50mph to 150 mph!

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c_no_summit
    why is it important to shim the difs...if it was the crutial, wouldn't they do it at the factory?? call me crazy I just drive mine.
    Hey crazy j/k You asked
    They start to get sloppy with wear then the gear mesh changes and it starts to eat things.If you go brushless or in my case lipo it can start to chew gears up.It gets costly and creates down time Thats no good.I also ask alot of my truck so if i can make it a bit stonger in key areas i will
    Mountains cant stop me
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