Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 57
  1. #1
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    632

    Revo big block photo's

    I'm looking for photo's of guys that run a BB in their revo. I'd like to see the exhaust and whatnot your using to get decent performance out of a BB in a revo.

    I like the performance of a typical big block running a side pipe, but you have to mangle the body severely to get it to run with a body. Just curious what others are doing.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    france
    Posts
    354
    If cut out neatly it looks fine and the advantages of a side pipe are well worth the cutting as a big block with a rear pipe isnt worth it you will lose a lot going rear pipe unless you can get hold of a cvec rear pipe but they dont make them anymore and they are rare even on ebay.
    Heres a couple of pics with my favourite being the buku bb pipe.


    Its not broken its just used

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    france
    Posts
    354
    Some more of the same lol

    Jp1 side pipe big red .28 engine

    Jp3 side pipe Picco .26 red dot engine

    Theres only one way

    Its not broken its just used

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    632
    Seems side pipe is the typical. If you guys could, could you note the header/pipe your using? Also the BB kit?

    I have the new era leaner kit with a mild XTM24.7 on it as an engine. I was using a duratrax warhead header since it's fairly long but with my new era 3 point roll bar, it doesn't let the pipe site nice and parrallel with the chassis. Also, with a normal body, it causes you to cut so much of it that it's really weak. Maybe I need to find an even longer header... or cut the DTX header and put a coupler in it to extend the back out a bit further so I can run a side pipe more easily and try to retain a bit more of the body.

    This is what I have currently, but the pipes are really holding the engine back:





    This was my side pipe configuration:


    As I can see it, the only way to get the pipe to drop down further in the rear is to extend the header a bit. Then I won't have to cut up so much of the body making it weak. The NE roll bar pushes the pipe out further than these photo's as well... so extending the coupler a bit and pushing the pipe further forward will also allow it to be closer to the body but not requireing so much body to be removed:


    Expert rigging at it's best!

  5. #5
    Traxxas Employee Texas Wheelman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Plano, TX
    Posts
    563
    I love this thread. The pics are great. Trucks that are runners. Nitro residue. Scratches. Fabricated mods to make it all work. A front bumper on the roof... I would never have thought of that, and it's a great practical solution.

    Thanks for sharing, guys.
    It's never too late to have a happy childhood.

  6. #6
    Traxxas Employee Texas Wheelman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Plano, TX
    Posts
    563
    A squeeze-bulb primer. I'm so getting one for my pull-start Jato.
    It's never too late to have a happy childhood.

  7. #7
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    219
    Not to hi-jack , but since this post is still pretty fresh , could we(OP willing) also see carb linkages and bell/spur area in case you had to mod. I'm thinking about doing a BB and I think that the exhaust , linkage , and mesh are the 3 areas of concern when not using an engine on the "known to fit and drop in" list
    Last edited by liquidfluidity; 06-26-2010 at 03:50 PM.

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    632
    Quote Originally Posted by baorevo
    Some more of the same lol

    Jp1 side pipe big red .28 engine
    Do you have issues with ripping that coupler on your header halves? I may try that with mine if I can't figure out a better rear pipe setup.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  9. #9
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    St. John, Washington
    Posts
    2,665
    not a truck bigblock, but i concider it to be close enough. now that i have switched to bumpstart im starting to like the idea of an OS .21(not a TM, a true BB) or somthing for my next engine





    2010 www.montecarloss.co.nr

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    632
    Quote Originally Posted by liquidfluidity
    Not to hi-jack , but since this post is still pretty fresh , could we(OP willing) also see carb linkages and bell/spur area in case you had to mod. I'm thinking about doing a BB and I think that the exhaust , linkage , and mesh are the 3 areas of concern when not using an engine on the "known to fit and drop in" list
    No problem. I wanted to see pipes/headers and whatnot, but there's no reason this can't be a more useful thread to others.

    This is my throttle linkage:


    If you notice, I have stacked 2 4mm nuts on the bolt to lift the NE roll bar up a bit to give me a higher impact point other than my cooling head. So far it seems to be working.

    Bell/spur:


    I moved the trans forward about 1/4" to give me clearance to run an 1/8 scale clutch/bell setup, probably should have moved it a hair more, but it works.


    The extra little button heads you see under the skid plate are just bolts I ran through the chassis and transmission flanges to put locknuts on the top side to key the transmission to that spot. Since all 4 trans holes are now slotted, I didn't want it to move around on me.

    This was with my fantom 1/10 pipe installed:


    It gave ok power, but it's so dang noisy and the power isn't that great, which is why I'm seeking alternatives.

    I'm currently going to try something like this with an old XTM pipe I had in a box:
    Quote Originally Posted by dasmurf93
    so i bought the custom pipe back from my friend that i had sold it to. it may look contraversal beacsue its headerless but let me tell you it does make a big difference. the pipe was orginally for a savage bb but i modified it.
    I'm not sure what he used to put the fitting on the pipe to go to the exhaust port of the engine, but I'm trying a bit of copper tubing and jb-weld. Not sure what I'm going to plug the open end of the pipe with though... The JB weld is curing now. The preliminary version doesn't look nearly as good as his... but if it works, I may redo it a bit if the JB weld holds up.

    As a side note, didn't someone make side pipe specific bodies for the revo? I can't remember who it was... but I remember it existing.
    Last edited by olds97_lss; 06-26-2010 at 10:28 PM.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    france
    Posts
    354
    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss
    Do you have issues with ripping that coupler on your header halves? I may try that with mine if I can't figure out a better rear pipe setup.
    No and it allows the pipe to have a better fit all round
    Its not broken its just used

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    632
    Well, after the JB weld set up a while, I figured I'd try and mount it. It's not pretty by any means, but hopefully it's functional.

    The pipe:


    I bought a 1/2" copper plumbing T fitting, cut it down the middle and opened it up like a clam. Then I shaped it as best as I could to form fit around the taper of the pipe. Then I just drilled a hole in the pipe where the T opening was. I dremelled it out so there aren't any rough spots and that ensured that the hole was the right size.

    Installed:


    I put two pipe hangers on it. One to support the middle and one to help keep the far end from flopping around.




    With body:
    Last edited by olds97_lss; 06-27-2010 at 03:05 AM.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Campbellsport, Wisconsin
    Posts
    368
    I like that idea of making a side pipe a rear pipe. However, I don't like the idea of spending 50 to 60 bucks on a pipe and having the mod not work. I know it's all about experimentation, but I was never lucky to get JB weld to work on a heated area.

    A while back I had the stinger break off one of my pipes, and I used JBweld to put it back on, and it never worked.

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    632
    Nope. Didn't take... leaks and the JB cracked. Guess I'm doomed to run a stinking side pipe. I do have the trinity pipe showing up. I plan on giving it a try first, but if not, then I'm hacksawing one of my headers to lengthen it so I can run a side pipe. Just stinks that you can't find something to easily use with a BB that is reliable, durable and puts out good power.

    Ran pretty good but I chased the tune all over and back. JB is supposed to hold up to 500F. At least the long cure stuff is.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  15. #15
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    1,366
    Here's mine. I took a header and cut it in half and used 2 long couplers and there is very minimal body modification.


    X3-RC8T/X2 ERBE/Losi SCTE/SC10 4x4/Baja 5SC/Rusty

  16. #16
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    632
    Well, my trinity pipe showed up today. I like the two piece headers that require a couplervs the spring mounted ones, so I stuck with the traxxas bb header:


    Will hopefully get a chance over the long weekend to see what that does. It seems to have more volume by a fair margin over a stock pipe and I think more than the fantom pipe. Looks like it could be a bit loud though...
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  17. #17
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    217
    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss
    Well, my trinity pipe showed up today. I like the two piece headers that require a couplervs the spring mounted ones, so I stuck with the traxxas bb header:


    Will hopefully get a chance over the long weekend to see what that does. It seems to have more volume by a fair margin over a stock pipe and I think more than the fantom pipe. Looks like it could be a bit loud though...
    well i guess you came across my pic. first let me start by saying to me it works awesome no doubt. i have top speed my slayer with the dynamite and the pipe an 54mph. i love it. well to get it done i tapped a 1/2 threaded pipe hole in the pipe. and then screwed a 1/2 pipe brass nipple. then i sanded the otter part where the jb weld attaches to the pipe. and the cupler is from hpi for the 1/10 scales. i just used two zip ties. it has lasted me for a good 6 plus months till i wrecked the back part and the jb weld cracked. i just have to redo the jb weld again. but what i do love is the no residue part. i love it.



  18. #18
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    632
    Oooooooh... so the JB weld is more of a seal than anything. I didn't think to get threaded pipe. I'm such a dolt! Although, how much is a tap that big? I'll have to look into it and maybe try with another pipe... Mine didn't last 300 cc's of fuel before I noticed the cracking/leaking. Was running weird too at that point, so I called it a day.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  19. #19
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    217
    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss
    Oooooooh... so the JB weld is more of a seal than anything. I didn't think to get threaded pipe. I'm such a dolt! Although, how much is a tap that big? I'll have to look into it and maybe try with another pipe... Mine didn't last 300 cc's of fuel before I noticed the cracking/leaking. Was running weird too at that point, so I called it a day.
    well i didnot actually buy a tap that big but i just forced it with another steel nipple to make the thread since the aluminum is kind of thin. i think the tap might be alittle pricy. i have already tried it with another pipe and i know it works. my first one was with a savage xss pipe. i did the same think but on the original inlet i put a 1/2 pipe thread plu. i did the same thing forced it since its alomost the right diameter. just make sure if you do this put some lock tight or jb weld on the plug since vibration might losen it up. thanks

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    632
    Thanks for letting me know. I may use one of my unused pipes and try it again. I'll have to go to the hardware store and find a threaded piece like that.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  21. #21
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Va.
    Posts
    99

    Here's mine










    Last edited by snknby123; 06-30-2010 at 10:20 PM.

  22. #22
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    chester
    Posts
    183
    http://www.rdlogics.com/cgi-bin/cate...OSP&type=store

    heres for the peaple making their own exhaust systems that dont look so good
    it is mad by rdlogics

  23. #23
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Northern VT
    Posts
    688
    Did you guys running Badlands on Relux rims tape your tires before mounting?

    I figured since the rims were bigger than the Badlands call for and I had to stretch them on they'd work nice and balloon very little. WRONG!! They're horrible! So I guess I gotta get them off the rims somehow and tape the tires. Grrr.
    This space for rent

  24. #24
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    france
    Posts
    354
    Yeah best to tape them first.....
    best way to get those wheels off is the oven method, heat the oven to 180 c and place the wheels in the oven about 10 mins the tires just pull off. you gotta pull them while they are hot so use gloves.
    Its not broken its just used

  25. #25
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    632
    Quote Originally Posted by dasmurf93
    well i didnot actually buy a tap that big but i just forced it with another steel nipple to make the thread since the aluminum is kind of thin. i think the tap might be alittle pricy. i have already tried it with another pipe and i know it works. my first one was with a savage xss pipe. i did the same think but on the original inlet i put a 1/2 pipe thread plu. i did the same thing forced it since its alomost the right diameter. just make sure if you do this put some lock tight or jb weld on the plug since vibration might losen it up. thanks
    I pealed my copper fitting off and apparently, JB weld does not adhere to copper at all. Was a pain getting it off the pipe, but not a single piece of JB stuck to the copper. How well does it adhere to brass?
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  26. #26
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    217
    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss
    I pealed my copper fitting off and apparently, JB weld does not adhere to copper at all. Was a pain getting it off the pipe, but not a single piece of JB stuck to the copper. How well does it adhere to brass?
    so far like i said it has been working perfect. it seems to have bonded pretty good to both metals. i have used this pipe before for about 6 months until it crack after an impact. but i have grinned and brushed all the old stuff and redone it again. thanks

  27. #27
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    632
    Well, I noticed that the heat had a negative affect on the JB weld, so I'm trying a brass fitting like you, but I'm using something called "PC Fahrenheit". Good up to 500F. I bought some new jb-weld too just in case...

    I tried the trinity pipe today and either I got something wiggy in the setup, or I'm the worlds worst tuner. The last thing I did to this rig that made the tune really bad was run a rear BB header/pipe and add an associated primer bulb. It acts like I have to tune it really rich or it overheats really bad, but it loads up and dies for no reason at all. Prior to removing the side pipe and bulb, this thing held a tune all day long without batting an eye.

    So, since now I'm back to a BB pipe (with no real header), I removed the bulb and I'll see how it does tomorrow. If I end up chasing tune, I'll just deal with hacking the body and the non-stock look of a side pipe. Kind of nice not having grit/grime all over the rear tire from the exhaust...

    Last edited by olds97_lss; 07-03-2010 at 09:59 PM.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  28. #28
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    632
    Well, I went back to a side pipe anyway. I want something that's durable and the rear pipe is tough to make that way. Besides, it kind of tuned poorly as well. So, with a hack saw and some re-enforced silicone tube, I extended my header a bit so I could get the back of the pipe away and down to clear the roll bar and body.




    Still a decent amount of clearance from the tire too:


    It didn't require me to mangle the body I'm running much either. Just a few relief areas with the dremel so it wasn't rubbing on the mount or the header.

    Will hopefully make it through the day without coming disconnected from the header and if I remember right, the tune should be much better as well.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  29. #29
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    217
    well all that hard work for nothing. i do have to say that since it does not have a header the tune should be different. but ohh well you gave it a try.

  30. #30
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    632
    Yeah... on the plus side, I have a nice fantom revo pipe and a almost new trinity pipe that I got both of cheaply on ebay... so if I ever drop down to a 3.3 or dynamite 19... I'll have a few decent pipes to try.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  31. #31
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    11
    [QUOTE=baorevo]Some more of the same lol

    Jp1 side pipe big red .28 engine

    What did you have to do to get that big red in there? Thanks

  32. #32
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    france
    Posts
    354
    I used a shoe horn and a big hammer

    No seriously it drops right in with the new era big block mount but you have to drill out the tranny holes to move the gearbox forward 1/2 a cm (easy with a dremmel). You also need a golden horizon offset a arm to give the spin/pull start enough room or it touches another thing is i put a full steel RRP tranny in as i was eating up gears with the torque this thing has and last but not the least aluminum diff cups and well shimmed diffs.
    To finish off nice i put a buku big block power pipe on and that really lets the engine open up.

    Small vid of the pipe and that sound it gives
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0xw_b_S3cI
    Its not broken its just used

  33. #33
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by baorevo
    I used a shoe horn and a big hammer

    No seriously it drops right in with the new era big block mount but you have to drill out the tranny holes to move the gearbox forward 1/2 a cm (easy with a dremmel). You also need a golden horizon offset a arm to give the spin/pull start enough room or it touches another thing is i put a full steel RRP tranny in as i was eating up gears with the torque this thing has and last but not the least aluminum diff cups and well shimmed diffs.
    To finish off nice i put a buku big block power pipe on and that really lets the engine open up.

    Small vid of the pipe and that sound it gives
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0xw_b_S3cI
    Oh I see i will look into that. Thanks for the quick reply! Oh and btw that thing sound scrazy!

  34. #34
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    632
    Quote Originally Posted by baorevo
    No seriously it drops right in with the new era big block mount but you have to drill out the tranny holes to move the gearbox forward 1/2 a cm (easy with a dremmel). You also need a golden horizon offset a arm to give the spin/pull start enough room or it touches another thing is i put a full steel RRP tranny in as i was eating up gears with the torque this thing has and last but not the least aluminum diff cups and well shimmed diffs.
    To finish off nice i put a buku big block power pipe on and that really lets the engine open up.
    You "had to" buy the horizon arm? I had a OS21RG back in the day in my revo with the NE BB leaner kit and it didn't get that close to the arm under full compression. That thing had one of the largest pull-start housings I've ever used. My XTM24.7 fits with the NE Leaner mount as well with a pullstart and also doesn't come close to hitting the arm.

    Got any closeup photo's of your starter area? Just curious what I should look out for.

    I just had a thought, I run (and have always ran) RPM arms all around. Currently on the rear I'm running the RPM true-track arms/hubs. Are they shaped different than stock arms maybe?

    I'm not doubting that you had to get the arm. I'm just surprised that I haven't had that issue with mine. I also moved the trans forward to run a BB flywheel/clutch/bell.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  35. #35
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    france
    Posts
    354
    i dont have a pic with the old a arm, i had stock then rpm and they both hit on full compression and that had for effect to push the whole engine (mainly landing jumps) forward pushing the clutch into the spur and eating the spur .
    Its not broken its just used

  36. #36
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    632
    What engine mount? Is it the new era leaner all purpose BB mount? At full compression, I have about 1/2" between the arm and the starter housing.

    What rockers/pushrods are you running? I'm running P2's with appropriate rods and I have them mounted in the tallest holes on the RPM arms.
    Last edited by olds97_lss; 07-12-2010 at 08:32 PM.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  37. #37
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    france
    Posts
    354
    New era bb mount, p2 rockers, rods in the middle holes
    Its not broken its just used

  38. #38
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    622
    Here is my Rig. I am using the New Era mount, JP-3 pipe and RPM rear arms. The LRP engine with a roto start back plate misses the RPM True track arm just.



    This is my Slayer coverted to a Revo and that is using a Traxxas big block mount with roto start. Tranny have to be moved forward by a fair bit and I had to take some minimal material off the back of the roto backplate to clear the arm.





    Oh yeah the side pipe is really tight against the rear wheel if you are using the Traxxas mount. It is better to use wheels with bigger off set in that case.
    BASH. BREAK. FIX. REPEAT. ALWAYS REPEAT.

  39. #39
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    California
    Posts
    2,536
    Is that lrp mill powerful ?

  40. #40
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    632
    Yes. Has decent RPM's as well. I run one in my savage and one in my aftershock. Thirsty engine, but a fairly strong and long lasting engine. I probably have about 5 gallons through each of mine and they still have tons of compression. They hold a tune all day as well when mated with the right pipe.

    I can't believe your running them on something as light as a revo! They throw around my bigger trucks like afterthoughts. What gearing are you running with that?
    Expert rigging at it's best!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •