If I wanted to convert my standard 4-Tec to the pro version, what would I need? Is there a complete list of just conversion parts needed for the job?
Thanks ahead,
DK.
If I wanted to convert my standard 4-Tec to the pro version, what would I need? Is there a complete list of just conversion parts needed for the job?
Thanks ahead,
DK.
Let me simplify it for you:
All graphite parts.
All aluminum parts.
All ***anium parts.
Now for racing you'll need the following:
Powerline:
Rear arms.
Rear hub carriers.
Brake adapter.
Optional gears.
best of luck!
- Rick -
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9 years of R/C racing CAN'T go wrong!
There are several parts you can convert. The great thing about it is you can do a little at a time. If you look in your owners manual under parts list all of the Bold letters and numbers are hop-up parts. So you can decide which of the parts you want first.
Haha, hey moderators, perhaps the filters are a little too strong? He couldn't even say the first three letters of tytanium (spelled wrong on purpose) without getting censored!
Thats funny, i cant say a kind of metal. Plus, why does it say RC Newbie????? Ive been in this hobby for 9 years, and they are calling me a newbie!!!!
- Rick -
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9 years of R/C racing CAN'T go wrong!
My guess would be "newbie" to this particular board.<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by RC Rick:
Thats funny, i cant say a kind of metal. Plus, why does it say RC Newbie????? Ive been in this hobby for 9 years, and they are calling me a newbie!!!!
- Rick -</font>
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Life's Short....Race Hard!!
Eric
Eric D your right the newbee title is just for our message board. I think we have the filters taken care of.
I own a nitro 4 tec, And would like to get a pro,Does any one know how to get a hold on one.
Danny, someone is selling an assembled but never used 4-tec pro for $400 in the for sale forum. Check it out.
DK.
dkelly i have started the steps to converting to a pro 4 tec. i hope that first you took off the e-z start motor,and re-gearedthe tranny. what else have you done??
I disagree with RC Rick. I dont think you have to buy aluminum to make it a pro, but a few things would make it better for racing,Mainly buy the things that are offered in you manual it will cost you about $400 when you get done buying everything but do yourself a favor and dont buy the ball diffs trust me keep your stock diff's,I dont care what anyone says about the diffs and if they didnt have any problems you will and they just got lucky.Go with a heavy wieght diff fluid its cheaper and better.
[This message has been edited by DIGGER (edited 01-25-2001).]
hey 1 st gear what is the best way to put in the diff. fluid? i need to get some and add it.
Do you realize how much of a difference in handling the Pro ball diffs make??? They are aluminum and weigh less than the stock ones! Also, the chassis is .5 mm thinner than the stock one, which means it weighs less. The graphite saves weight. The blue anodized shaft save about .5 - 1. oz of weight.<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by 1st Gear:
I disagree with RC Rick. I dont think you have to buy aluminum to make it a pro but a few things would make it better for racing,Mainly buy the things that are offered in you manual it will cost you about $400 when you get done buying everything but do yourself a favor and dont buy the ball diffs trust me keep your stock diff's,I dont care what anyone says about the diffs and if they didnt have any problems you will and they just got lucky.Go with a heavy wieght diff fluid its cheaper and better.</font>
- Rick -
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9 years of R/C racing CAN'T go wrong!
[This message has been edited by DIGGER (edited 01-25-2001).]
You know Rick people try to shave wieght off and the big thing going for the 4tec is its weight,The ball diffs suk I dont care about weight they just arent any good,And did you know you can get better performance longer with heavy wieght diff fluid??I use ofna difflock lube up front and 8000 in the rear and Ill bet they are better than the ball diffs,It doesnt look like you care about weight cause I have two n4tecs and one is fully optioned with powerline parts and the other one is stock and the powerline one is way heavier,that might be why your car is handling so well,but Im sure youll say it weighs less cause of slots or something but thats not the truth now is it.Just admit it making it like the box stock pro minus the ball diffs is the way to go come on!!!
The cool thing about this hobby is that there are several different ways to achive the same result. The main difference between ball diffs and gear diffs is the ball diffs are adjustable and tuneable. The gear diffs can only be adjusted by taking them apart and changing the diff grease. Ball diffs can easily adjusted trackside and they are lighter, more precise and less likely to unload in corners. The down side is more maintence and a bit more experenced tuning hand. The advantage to gear diffs is they are much less maintenance and less exspensive. It is really a personal preference. So have fun!
To bad we all can't settle our differences on the track. (Put your driving where you mouth is)
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See ya at the finishline!
[This message has been edited by DIGGER (edited 01-25-2001).]
God I wish I could settle it on the track!
See you at the Nationals.
BTW, theres no way you could have all the Powerline parts, I am the only one that called up and ordered the only ones that were layin around. They have only a few of each kind(other than the popular ones like arms, axle carriers, etc.)
- Rick -
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9 years of R/C racing CAN'T go wrong!
Sounds like a pretty nice N4tec Rick. DO you have any pics?
And you think your the only one who called them????You can get everything at tower if you have the #'s
I have an old pic, from when my friend came into town with his digital camera. And Tower does not have everything. Its all on order, and there are still parts that are on Powerlines website that aren't even listed on Tower. That because they haven't put them into mass production yet, just made a couple for website pics.
I will post the pics of my chassis in a few minutes, I have to find them on my computer. They are like a year and a half old though.
- Rick -
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9 years of R/C racing CAN'T go wrong!
OK here it is, remember this was a LOOONG time ago, like a year and a half.
![]()
My hop ups since then:
All other Powerline parts
NovaRossi CX12
HPI Nitro Star 15ss
O.S. CV-R
Yank eliminator
110oz./in torque, metal gear servo.
Lightweight, vented flywheel
MIP clutch
probably something else, but I can't remember everything...
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9 years of R/C racing CAN'T go wrong!
[This message has been edited by RC Rick (edited 01-26-2001).]
looks good my man but I dont see the diff housings?? whats up with that??j/but I dont see them mainly in the front and the rear its too dark,but you definately have the arms!!I wont disagree with you I dont have a camera (digi) so I cant take a pic of mine anyways I took the thing apart and I am in the proccess of going thru the whole chassis and I am giving all of my aluminum to my friend (lil brother) cause I am using my NOB4 from now on but keep it rollin' and keep on making traxxas show 1st on race day!!thanx for posting the pic too it looks good.