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  1. #1
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    Center Bearing Solution

    OK this is not so much a solution as it was a mistake. Both my nephews have been running their slash's with center diffs for about five months. Four months of a indoor carpet season and about a month outside now. After I melted my center diff case when my bearing locked up one pack after I just check it I said they better be checking theirs more closely. One stated yeah why does my spur gear rock back and forth like this. When I looked at it I thought he had tore some stuff up like me but it turns out that when he installed his center diff he never read the directions and never took the bearing off the slipper. He and his brother have been running for five months with NO bearing and with NO problems. Of course they put the bearing on but now I'm starting to wonder if maybe they were on to something. While this solution is not perfect it may be the lesser of two evils. Has anyone else got four months on a bearing with no issues?

  2. #2
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    I guess it's possible since the rear bearing is still there and possibly the driveshaft could support the front output of the center diff. I'm sure it was wobbling like mad in there though since the driveshaft has nothing to keep it in there other than the chassis and cover at that point. Not a solution I would suggest to anybody.
    Turbo in the front, groceries in the back.

  3. #3
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    Just bought a PE today, and immediately put in the center differential. After reading this, I looked in the instructions, and I see nothing about swapping the bearing from the slipper assembly to the center diff.
    Censorship is wrong

  4. #4
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    It should be pretty obvious.
    Turbo in the front, groceries in the back.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbowop
    It should be pretty obvious.
    Doesn’t even show it in the pictures
    Censorship is wrong

  6. #6
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    Does it really need to?
    Turbo in the front, groceries in the back.

  7. #7
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    I'm gonna watch this thread. I'm gonna install my center diff this Friday. I haven't looked at the instructions yet.

  8. #8
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    if you guys are talking about how the bearing case on where the drive shaft slips in? because my bearing case keeps getting tore up and will cause the drive shaft to wobble like crazy! sometimes it will cause my wheels to lock up or make a weird sound!
    2nd place is 1st loser......

  9. #9
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    OK, I took off the rear end & popped out the diff. The area of the motor mount (the hole) where the shaft goes through so the gear on the diff meets the pinion was a bit melted, but not too bad. I would have to agree – leaving it out is not a good solution – only a matter of time before something else (and potentially more expensive) goes south. I’m only running a 8.4 Volt NiMH – will that make a difference?
    I’m making a trip to my LHS tomorrow; hopefully they’ll have a replacement motor mount (or even the aluminum one.)
    As for the bearing itself – has anyone else had trouble with it seizing? The Slash is new to me, but I have had & worked on a Stampede since February, so I’m not exactly a nOOb. Are there different bearings available?
    Censorship is wrong

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigV
    As for the bearing itself – has anyone else had trouble with it seizing?
    AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH


    hAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHHA

    *breathe*


    BHAHAHAHAHAHHWHAHAHAHAHAH
    ajajjAHAHAHAHHAHAH



    No, nobody's had that bearing seize yet.

    Turbo in the front, groceries in the back.

  11. #11
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    Turbo. It did not seem to wobble although it could move front to back. If it wobbled very much you would lose your mesh with the pinion which never happened while they ran it like this. The advantage is that this bearing seems to fail constantly and can damage things like your motor when it reaches 200 degrees trying to push a locked up bearing and a melting diff case. Once again I'm not saying I'm gonna run my truck like this but it has made me think about it.

  12. #12
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    i can see bending and breaking parts with this. pretty much anything that will be damaged by a sudden stop since the driveshaft will lock up. im surprised they made it that long. their driveshafts must be really bent from all of the wobbling.

    just saying, i wouldnt even consider this!

  13. #13
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    I know I have been through many of them but traxxas sells them in aluminum bearing carrier for about 5 dollars.
    No you cant drive it
    my RC is owner operated only

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miller814
    He and his brother have been running for five months with NO bearing and with NO problems.
    Any idea how many races or how many packs they have been through? Many of us would prefer that metric to how many "months." It would be nice if you could give us a ballpark at least.

    Quote Originally Posted by blue_uscg
    I know I have been through many of them but traxxas sells them in aluminum bearing carrier for about 5 dollars.
    it's not really the bearing carrier that anybody is worried about here...

    Regarding some of the other comments in this thread... Maybe I'm taking it wrong, but it really feels like you guys are laying on the hate. Who cares if you'd "consider it" , or whether the manual makes bearing placement obvious, or etc? Miller's already stated that this works for his nephews. If it works better than stock, that's what counts. I've had equipment in the past that worked better after removing parts. IMHO the attitude here is overly negative. Even if it's not a long-term solution, some people would just like to be able to get through races more reliably than they do now.
    Last edited by jesusthepirate; 05-27-2010 at 11:21 AM. Reason: clarification

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbowop
    Does it really need to?
    Holy crap - just noticed this thread, and sure enough I didn't trasfer the bearing over. It is easy to miss and I guarantee you there are others.

    It should be listed in the documentation.

  16. #16
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    Pirate. We raced once a week indoors for that four month period. Each race night about 20 minutes of practice followed by three qualifiers and the main. Of course we start each race with a fresh pack so they never get run down all the way so I guess I'll call it two packs a night. Thats 32 packs. We have a personal track at our farm that we run outdoors and sometimes they run when I'm not there so I don't have a real accurate pack count but I would say they've probably been through 10-15 packs in May. So total pack count is somewhere around 42-47 packs. I think this is enough that something would have failed by the time we noticed they had no bearing. FSTR - the drive shaft was not bent and the output shaft of the diff was fine as well. Upon inspection though only noticable damage was a small grove on the diff cup from rubbing against the motor mount since there was no bearing there and this was very minor.

    If people are worried about getting through the main without their bearing seizing up then this is a solution.

  17. #17
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    Forgot to mention we run 5000 and 5200 mah packs

  18. #18
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    I found the proper size (same as stock) Boca bearing at my LHS – Time will tell how well it holds up.
    Censorship is wrong

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by rc77
    Would be nice and have someone from Traxxas step up into this thread and voice an opinion, if only there was a site that we could post on where they would see it!
    Yes please...
    No, it is not in the instructions... I wonder if they even MEANT for us to put it in or if they left it out on purpose...
    PLEASE do not PM me and immediately go offline :p

  20. #20
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    i tried it this moring. when i really hit the gas you could see the driveshaft go CRAZY. it was all over the place wobbling like crazy. needless to say i didnt even take it outside.

  21. #21
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    I had not actually run my truck with out the bearing. Only knew my nephews had and there was no damage. When I read FSTR's statement to lots of wobble I wanted to see it in action. Just tried it on my truck. Yes, the spur gear can move front to back but is always in decent contact with the pinion. Besides that the wobble that I get is only slightly worse than the wobble I get when I run the bearing. Even when I put a brand new bearing in it still wobbles some. Now after only two packs I can tell that bearing will maybe make it one more pack and if I don't time it right I will melt another diff housing. So my choice is keep throwing new bearings in and replacing melted diff houses if I don't catch that at the right time which will add up cost wise or see what else will break in time by running no bearing. I'm undecided as of now.

  22. #22
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    running my bigger bearing, it has lasted more than 10 packs in gravel and fine dirt. so far so good.

    and when i didnt have the bearing i could push the spur away from the pinion. so i am worried about stripping it.

  23. #23
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    You guys seriously didn't realize that bearing didn't need to be there? Even after all the threads about that bearing seizing when using both the center diff and the slipper clutch?

    Most everything is supported by two bearings. The only thing I can think of on the truck that's not is the pinion for the ring&pinion in the rear. But that bearing supports both the pinion and the center diff/slipper. When locked to the whole assembly, it's basically supported by two bearings, the other being the one you guys are leaving out.

    The only reason it doesn't wobble crazy bad is because the tolerances around the spur assembly, whether using the center diff or the slipper are tight enough that it hits something before completely wobbling out of whack. Removing the bearing is not the fix. It's hack-work.
    Turbo in the front, groceries in the back.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbowop
    You guys seriously didn't realize that bearing didn't need to be there? Even after all the threads about that bearing seizing when using both the center diff and the slipper clutch?

    Most everything is supported by two bearings. The only thing I can think of on the truck that's not is the pinion for the ring&pinion in the rear. But that bearing supports both the pinion and the center diff/slipper. When locked to the whole assembly, it's basically supported by two bearings, the other being the one you guys are leaving out.

    The only reason it doesn't wobble crazy bad is because the tolerances around the spur assembly, whether using the center diff or the slipper are tight enough that it hits something before completely wobbling out of whack. Removing the bearing is not the fix. It's hack-work.
    ugh, aggressive!

    I think most of us realize all that crap. I'm not certain, but you may have mis-spoken in your first sentence since you were berating people earlier for not realizing that the bearing -did- need to be there (see my emphasis in the quote)...

    Regardless, I obviously agree that this is not "the fix" that we all want from TRAXXAS. The one where the CD starts to work reliably for racers and bashers instead of being a hit-and-miss grenade. As you know, "The Fix" is probably this: http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=523729 - a 10x19x5 bearing to replace the puny 10x15x4 bearing. RPM, STRC, or somebody (even TRX!) can just start selling a kit with the oversize bearing and appropriate carrier/plate.

    In the meantime, this hack achieves a goal regardless of anyone's approval.

  25. #25
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    Oh whoops. Yeah, that was a mistype.
    Turbo in the front, groceries in the back.

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