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  1. #1
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    .15 engine to a 2.5R Engine

    I am going to change out my .15 engine for the 2.5R engine.

    What parts do I need to make this happen?

    Pipes, tubes, gears, etc.

    Let me know,

    Drew

  2. #2
    Traxxas Employee 3_rolls's Avatar
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    Part #4400 has all you need. It's the Pro .15 to 2.5/3.3 conversion kit for Nitro Sport, Nitro Stanpede, and Nitro Rustler.
    Roll cages are RC training wheels

  3. #3
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    That's it, and you can also get a resonator pipe if you dont want to use the plastic pipe.
    Nitro Sport Pro. 15
    VXL BlackSlash w/ DX2.0

  4. #4
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    go ahead and put the 3.3 in it.
    trx 450r woods rider......

  5. #5
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    I am considering this mod, but was told by a local hobby shop not to put a 3.3 in it. because of the fact that I could break other thing's regardless of beefing up the suspension. he said even putting a 2.5 is putting it way over its limits.

  6. #6
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    Stillen. Ask him why traxxas put a 2.5 in the rustler? Its essentially the same drive line and setup. Some hobby ppl should just stay quiet.
    If he gives you a smarty comment back, give me their number and Ill show up with my 3.3 sport.
    To many projects....So little cash.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ranger_racer
    Stillen. Ask him why traxxas put a 2.5 in the rustler? Its essentially the same drive line and setup. Some hobby ppl should just stay quiet.
    If he gives you a smarty comment back, give me their number and Ill show up with my 3.3 sport.
    They are and they aren't the same truck for instance. I believe the rustler has different type of steering.

  8. #8
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    steering doesnt have anything to do with the drive-line, which are the same
    E-Pede/N-Sport 2.5R/Jato
    N-Rusty/N-Sport/MERV

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by scoutdog
    steering doesnt have anything to do with the drive-line, which are the same
    Regardless they aren't the same truck.

  10. #10
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    they basically are. minus the bellcrank steering and chassis plates. but the point of concern which is the tranny and output shafts and all that is the same.
    E-Pede/N-Sport 2.5R/Jato
    N-Rusty/N-Sport/MERV

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by scoutdog
    they basically are. minus the bellcrank steering and chassis plates. but the point of concern which is the tranny and output shafts and all that is the same.
    I am just trying to see if it's worth it to go with a 2.5 or a 3.3, there's only a 10-20 dollar difference between the motors. If i were to go 3.3 I might as well get a jato no? although it be nice to have two 3.3 cars ****.

  12. #12
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    I went with the 2.5R because its a good solid engine for the sport. Now, I basically have a rustler. I didnt care about getting the 3.3 because I will have a REVO soon enough.

    I do know about the 4400 kit, but you also need to get a different flywheel. I found that out the hard way.

    Other than that the engine drops right in. Setting up the carb sucks a little with all the angles, etc.

  13. #13
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    I'm new to the Rc world but in the paper work that comes with your it came with this list. You can also click on the Nitro sport at Traxxas.com and look under accessories. That's what I did when I thought about it. I know the people on here will tell you all you need to know, these are some great people and have most if not all the answers you will ever need.

  14. #14
    RC Competitor
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    i would get aluminum stub axles for the rear because the stock ones on my 2.5 stampede ripped right apart .

  15. #15
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    i would go with the 3.3 because a 2.5 is equivelent to a .15 3.3=.20 get my point.
    the 2.5 and 2.5r are the same thing besides the cooling head, i have had them both back in the day. also the sport was my first nitro.

    yes the 2.5 might be a little faster because of the design of things but it wont be much different. just go with the 3.3 and be done. if you break any of the driveline then replace the parts you can with jato parts (drive shafts)
    As of 4-1-10 im back in the rc scene

  16. #16
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    I'd think hard about that motor swap dude. I think the .15 is a lot
    easier to tune and a lot more reliable.(I've got a Revo and a T-Maxx that came with 2.5's) I don't know what your track is like but unless you can go around it with the throttle pegged the whole time why get more motor ?
    Unless you are bashing or street riding, then Go For It. And like the other guys said, Traxxas sells it all in a kit.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by drchoicey
    I'd think hard about that motor swap dude. I think the .15 is a lot
    easier to tune and a lot more reliable.(I've got a Revo and a T-Maxx that came with 2.5's) I don't know what your track is like but unless you can go around it with the throttle pegged the whole time why get more motor ?
    Unless you are bashing or street riding, then Go For It. And like the other guys said, Traxxas sells it all in a kit.
    The .15 over heat alot, never stays running for long periods of time. It happening to me now. me and my uncle have tried tuning this thing to the max. still overheats. we even put a temp gauge on it, it got close to 220 degree's. I've heard the 2.5's tend to overheat sometimes as well.

    I much rather get a new motor then a new truck right now, it be alot of cheaper. I wanna switch to bellcrank steering to I think.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mateya49
    I went with the 2.5R because its a good solid engine for the sport. Now, I basically have a rustler. I didnt care about getting the 3.3 because I will have a REVO soon enough.

    I do know about the 4400 kit, but you also need to get a different flywheel. I found that out the hard way.

    Other than that the engine drops right in. Setting up the carb sucks a little with all the angles, etc.
    What flywheel do I need?

    Also can I reuse the EZStart system? I have the first one? the one that came with the control box, it say's .15 on the ezstart gear box, can I reinstall that on the 2.5?
    Last edited by Stillen GLE; 04-27-2010 at 09:36 PM.

  19. #19
    RC Racer
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    Having a 2.5 Rustler - I personally find it to be just enough power - looking at Jato's, I just don't understand how every time you mash it from a dead stop, it's just wheelies on demand. Sure it's fun a few times, but then again, I see the Jato as more of an onroad car than an offroad one, at least in stock fashion.
    Nitro Rustler 2.5

  20. #20
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    Stillen, that ez-start setup will not work with 2.5/3.3 motors. Youll need a new ez-start motor and transmission/case. The wire harness and control box will still be ok, as well as the OWB.
    To many projects....So little cash.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ranger_racer
    Stillen, that ez-start setup will not work with 2.5/3.3 motors. Youll need a new ez-start motor and transmission/case. The wire harness and control box will still be ok, as well as the OWB.
    Is there stronger dog bones I can buy? the pin popped out of my MIP on just the axle I believe, I still got the dog bone in one piece, is there anything made stronger?

  22. #22
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    Decided to bring this back from the dead! I wanna put a tuned pipe on it next, I already bought the clutch bell 22t, just got the new bearings for it as well.

    What is better to go with Tuned pipe wise? a THS or a Traxxas one?

    Is there a way to install reverse in the tranny as well?

  23. #23
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    CTskier - my 3.3 Jato has trouble keeping the front wheels on the ground. But it is fast! My 3.3 4Tec is brutal but very hard to keep it straight. Gyro helped a BUNCH, now gonna try over sized Super Nitro wheels/tires.

    Point is, anything with a 3.3 or larger is a lot-o-power!
    US Navy retired, now - FAA air traffic controller

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